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Member postings for Les Jones 1

Here is a list of all the postings Les Jones 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: chester conquest pcb board connections
22/12/2018 15:13:22

If you post some pictures of the old board and the new board there will be more chance of someone being able to help,
Here is a link to the manual, The wiring diagram is near the end of the manual


Thread: My ford lathe problem!
22/12/2018 14:50:15

Hi John,
I found their 2017 catalogue online but did not fond anything about the power failure release. Is there a coil assembley on your switch ? If so there is probably a contact that keeps that held energised in the foreward or reverse position. If that contact is intermittent it would cause it to drop out and cause the switch to return to the off position, It could also be the mechanism that holds the switch in the forward or reverse position that is faulty. It may only be dirty or needs a drop of oil. If you can post some pictures it may help.


22/12/2018 14:17:24

Hi John,
Can you confirm that the switch actually jumps back to the off position ? I was assuming it stayed in the forward or reverse position but the motor stopped. I think the type number refers to a range of switches and the "X" will be replaced with some code that gives the number of poles and positions.


22/12/2018 10:49:01

Hi John,
I am not familiar with the Kraus and Naimer CA 10x switch but by looking on the web it looks like just a reversing switch with no overload protection. Does it lookf:0"> like this ?


When the lathe stops do you have to wait for some time before it will restart or will it restart straight away ? Is this switch the only control or is there a push button stop and start switch ? About how long does it run for before stopping ?



Edited By Les Jones 1 on 22/12/2018 10:50:42

Edited By Les Jones 1 on 22/12/2018 10:54:02

Edited By Les Jones 1 on 22/12/2018 10:58:09

Edited By Les Jones 1 on 22/12/2018 11:02:31

Thread: Making a Tap to Thread Plastic?
18/12/2018 17:30:20

I would use a different approach. I would strip off the inner plastic coating to expose the aluminium and make an expanding bush. It would be a short piece of tube with some saw cuts partly along it's length that was pulled onto a tapered bush with a nut and bolt. (Or the bush could be tapped.) Another way that you could try is to make a bush with a hole through is and tap it but only with a taper tap and not all the way through. Put some saw cuts allong it's length from the end that was not fully threaded. When a bolt was screwed in it should expand it when it met the tapered part of the thread.


Thread: Telephone / Internet Scams
14/12/2018 12:57:40

Hi Andrew,
I have played them along for a bit by saying I used a Raspberry Pi for internet access. I then Kept them hanging on for a bit saying it was booting up.


14/12/2018 12:04:38

There seems to be a new variation on ones claiming to be from an ISP saying your internet access will be terminated in 24 hours. I have had a few recently claiming to be from something like "The UK cyber crime agency" saying your internet access will be terminated in 24 hours. The difference was the recorded voice was with an English accent.


Thread: Baldor Bench Grinder wont get to speed
12/12/2018 16:58:52

How sure are you that the tachometer reading is correct ? I would expect an induction motor running that much below design speed would get very hot..


Thread: How o Remove Chester Super Lux Motor
11/12/2018 22:35:39

Hi Colin,
I did not realise that the screws were so small. I dont think I would risk them for lifting the motor. You might be able to use two pieces of wood to lever it up on the bottom end of the cooling fins. It would be a good idea to get someone to help by steadying the motor as you are levering it up. Another possibility would be to clamp two pieces of wood (Say about 4" x 1" cross section with one or two lengths of threaded rod each side of the motor. Yoh could then screw blocks of wood to the pieces clamping the motor and use jacking bolts to lift against the blocks..

lux gearbox.jpg


This is the picture from the document in John's link showing the gearbox. It does not show the coupling to the motor very well. I think the end of the motor shaft fits into the end of the shaft item 31 on the drawing.


Edited By Les Jones 1 on 11/12/2018 22:38:28

Edited By Les Jones 1 on 11/12/2018 22:40:01

11/12/2018 16:50:58

Hi Colin,
I would make a plate that fixes on the top end of the motor and fix it to the motor using the three threaded holes that retained the top end plate. Make sure that you get a good length of thread in the threaded holes. I think some reasonable thickness plywood would be strong enough for the plate. Also drill a number of holes (3 or 4) on a PCD a bit larger than the mounting flange. Make some spacer blocks from wood that have about 20mm clearance under the plate. Insert a bolt with a nut on from underneath the plate an put one of the blocks under it. Do the same with all the holes. Use the bolts and nuts to jack the plate up to lift the motor. From the link John has posted it looks like the motor shaft fits into another shaft with a keyway.


Edited By Les Jones 1 on 11/12/2018 16:51:28

Edited By Les Jones 1 on 11/12/2018 16:54:47

Thread: Chester Super Lux - Motor Failure
11/12/2018 14:42:24

Hi Colin,
The manual I got with my Chester DB-10G lathe contained some drwings of the construction of the lathe. You may be able to get Chester to email you a manual for your mill in .pdf format.


11/12/2018 14:10:51

You will probably have to remove the motor from the mill to get to the screws that bolt the bottom end plate to the casing.


11/12/2018 12:39:06

Hi Colin,
You have now confirmed thet the fault is in the motor. While you have the lamps connected up connect the start capacitor in series with one of them. (As I suggested in my post on 25 Nov at 20:01.) The lamp it is connected in series with should light at almost full brightness as a 150 uF capacitor has a reactance of about 20 ohms at 50 hz. If the lamp lights at near full brightness than the capacitor is probably OK. This is the only way I can suggest testing it without test equipment. From yesterdays tests I am allmost certain that the centrifugal switch is faulty.


10/12/2018 22:14:41

Yes, One bulb to U1 and U2. The other bulb to V1 and W2.


10/12/2018 19:50:19

I should read posts properly. It looks like the centrifugal switch is faulty. U1 and U2 are the run winding and I asked for them to be disconnected to avoid that winding being connected to the start winding connections via the reversing switch and causing false readings. If it was me I would confirm that if two 100 watt. (40 to 150 watt would do.) were connected one to the wires U1 and U2 and the other to V1 and W2 (With those wires disconnected from the motor.) that they lit up when the start button was pressed as if starting the motor in both directions of the forward reverse switch. That would prove that power would be getting to both windings of the motor. I would do that before trying to dismantle the motor to get at the centrifugal switch. When I misread your locations as near Burtonwood I thought I would probably be close enough to you to look at the problem myself as a last resort.


10/12/2018 18:10:35

The capacitor should still be connected. It is realy the top two terminals that you are shorting out. You could just connect a piece of wire between the terminals so you have your hands free to hold the meter probes. I did not know that chester had a site at burtonwood. I have been to the Warco site a Burtonwood when I was deciding which lathe to buy but it was only a showroom and it was opened up by a none technical person from the office. I have not even seen the Super lux mill let alone taken the motor appart. I don't think Chester would even stock spare capacitors at their Hawarden site.

Edit, I should have worded my instructions more clearly yesterday. I should have said short the top two terminals in the motor connecton box that the capacitor is connected to together.


Edited By Les Jones 1 on 10/12/2018 18:25:46

Edited By Les Jones 1 on 10/12/2018 18:31:48

10/12/2018 17:18:58

Hi Colin,
The OL display means that the resistance that you are trying to measure is higer than the meter can read on the range it is set to. If the reading did not drop to a low value when the capacitor was shorted out then the centrifugal switch or the start winding is open circuit, (It is not likely to be the start winding.) If the capacitor really does only have a capacitane of a few nF then it is faulty. (There are 1000 nF in 1 microfarad.) I find it difficult to believe that both the capacitor and centrifugal switch are faulty.


10/12/2018 15:25:28

When you say that you did not get a reading do you mean that you got an infinite reading ? An infinite (Or at least very high.) reading is what I would expect with the start winding in series wth the capacitor and centrifugal switch. The idea of shorting the capacitor out is so you measure the resistance of the start winding in series with the centrifugal switch, that should be quite low less than 20 ohms. I have no susspicion that there is any problem with your mains supply.


09/12/2018 20:02:58

Just reading though the post again we could be jumping the the conclusion that the motor is faulty. Nothing has been done to verify that the conractor KM1 is being energised. That needs to be checked next time the fault occures.


09/12/2018 19:07:05

If the machine is still in the not working condition do the following WITH THE POWER REMOVED. Disconnect the wires U1 and U2 from the motor terminals. (These are probably the run winding.) Measure the resistance between the teminals they were removed from. If you get a low reading Less than about 15 ohms then this is the run winding. (If you get a low reading go to step 2. If you get a very high or infinite resistance reading then this will be the start winding in series with the capacitor and centrifugal switch. With the meter leads still on the terminals short out the capacitor terminals. If the centrifucal switch is close (Which it should be with the motor stopped.) then the meter should give a low reading. ( Less than about 20 ohms.) If you still have a high reading then the centrifugal switch is faulty. Goto End.
Step 2 Connect the meter leads to V1 and the bottom left hand terminal. (The lable is obscured by wires. I think it will be Z2 or W2) You should get a high reading. Short the capacitor connections. The reading should drop to less than 20 ohms. If it remains high the the centrifugal switch is faulty.

End. Report the results.
One other question. When it failed disd it fail in both forward and reverse ?


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