Here is a list of all the postings Les Jones 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: chester conquest pcb board connections|
If you post some pictures of the old board and the new board there will be more chance of someone being able to help,
|Thread: My ford lathe problem!|
When the lathe stops do you have to wait for some time before it will restart or will it restart straight away ? Is this switch the only control or is there a push button stop and start switch ? About how long does it run for before stopping ?
Edited By Les Jones 1 on 22/12/2018 11:02:31
|Thread: Making a Tap to Thread Plastic?|
I would use a different approach. I would strip off the inner plastic coating to expose the aluminium and make an expanding bush. It would be a short piece of tube with some saw cuts partly along it's length that was pulled onto a tapered bush with a nut and bolt. (Or the bush could be tapped.) Another way that you could try is to make a bush with a hole through is and tap it but only with a taper tap and not all the way through. Put some saw cuts allong it's length from the end that was not fully threaded. When a bolt was screwed in it should expand it when it met the tapered part of the thread.
|Thread: Telephone / Internet Scams|
There seems to be a new variation on ones claiming to be from an ISP saying your internet access will be terminated in 24 hours. I have had a few recently claiming to be from something like "The UK cyber crime agency" saying your internet access will be terminated in 24 hours. The difference was the recorded voice was with an English accent.
|Thread: Baldor Bench Grinder wont get to speed|
How sure are you that the tachometer reading is correct ? I would expect an induction motor running that much below design speed would get very hot..
|Thread: How o Remove Chester Super Lux Motor|
This is the picture from the document in John's link showing the gearbox. It does not show the coupling to the motor very well. I think the end of the motor shaft fits into the end of the shaft item 31 on the drawing.
Edited By Les Jones 1 on 11/12/2018 22:38:28
Edited By Les Jones 1 on 11/12/2018 22:40:01
Edited By Les Jones 1 on 11/12/2018 16:51:28
Edited By Les Jones 1 on 11/12/2018 16:54:47
|Thread: Chester Super Lux - Motor Failure|
You will probably have to remove the motor from the mill to get to the screws that bolt the bottom end plate to the casing.
Yes, One bulb to U1 and U2. The other bulb to V1 and W2.
I should read posts properly. It looks like the centrifugal switch is faulty. U1 and U2 are the run winding and I asked for them to be disconnected to avoid that winding being connected to the start winding connections via the reversing switch and causing false readings. If it was me I would confirm that if two 100 watt. (40 to 150 watt would do.) were connected one to the wires U1 and U2 and the other to V1 and W2 (With those wires disconnected from the motor.) that they lit up when the start button was pressed as if starting the motor in both directions of the forward reverse switch. That would prove that power would be getting to both windings of the motor. I would do that before trying to dismantle the motor to get at the centrifugal switch. When I misread your locations as near Burtonwood I thought I would probably be close enough to you to look at the problem myself as a last resort.
The capacitor should still be connected. It is realy the top two terminals that you are shorting out. You could just connect a piece of wire between the terminals so you have your hands free to hold the meter probes. I did not know that chester had a site at burtonwood. I have been to the Warco site a Burtonwood when I was deciding which lathe to buy but it was only a showroom and it was opened up by a none technical person from the office. I have not even seen the Super lux mill let alone taken the motor appart. I don't think Chester would even stock spare capacitors at their Hawarden site.
Edit, I should have worded my instructions more clearly yesterday. I should have said short the top two terminals in the motor connecton box that the capacitor is connected to together.
Edited By Les Jones 1 on 10/12/2018 18:25:46
Edited By Les Jones 1 on 10/12/2018 18:31:48
When you say that you did not get a reading do you mean that you got an infinite reading ? An infinite (Or at least very high.) reading is what I would expect with the start winding in series wth the capacitor and centrifugal switch. The idea of shorting the capacitor out is so you measure the resistance of the start winding in series with the centrifugal switch, that should be quite low less than 20 ohms. I have no susspicion that there is any problem with your mains supply.
Just reading though the post again we could be jumping the the conclusion that the motor is faulty. Nothing has been done to verify that the conractor KM1 is being energised. That needs to be checked next time the fault occures.
If the machine is still in the not working condition do the following WITH THE POWER REMOVED. Disconnect the wires U1 and U2 from the motor terminals. (These are probably the run winding.) Measure the resistance between the teminals they were removed from. If you get a low reading Less than about 15 ohms then this is the run winding. (If you get a low reading go to step 2. If you get a very high or infinite resistance reading then this will be the start winding in series with the capacitor and centrifugal switch. With the meter leads still on the terminals short out the capacitor terminals. If the centrifucal switch is close (Which it should be with the motor stopped.) then the meter should give a low reading. ( Less than about 20 ohms.) If you still have a high reading then the centrifugal switch is faulty. Goto End.
End. Report the results.
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