Member postings for Les Jones 1

Is it not possible to draw them in using threaded rod, short lengths of tube and some thick washers ? It is over 50 years since I had an A series engine in bits so my best best guess would be that 6mm is about the largest threaded rod that would fit through the valve guides.

Les.

I agree with chrisB that your scales are the capacitive type and they will not work most display units as most of them expect quadrature signals which most glass(Optical) and magnetic scales provide. To make things more complicated there are a number of different protocols used with capacitive scales. There is one DIY design that works with some types of capacitive scales. This is a link to it.

**LINK**

I have not followed that project for a few years so I don't know the capabilities of the current version.

Les.

If you are planning to use it to try to remove the bearing I think it is not the correct grade. For that i suggest 638

Les.

The grade of loctite that I have used in the past is 638.

Les.

Try turning down the end of some threaded rod (10mm or above.) to a couple of thou under 8mm. Clean out any oil or grease from the hole in the bearing. Loctite the end of the threaded rod into the bearing and leave it for a day or so to set. Use a suitable length of tube and thick washer to draw the beating out. (I can't remember which grade of loctite is the strongest.) You can remove the threaded rod from the bearing using heat, Repeat the process for the second bearing.

Les.

Edited By Les Jones 1 on 10/04/2021 10:59:37

Although Howard's comment about slip rings is wrong (As it will not have slip rings) It made me wonder if it's 3 phase supply was derived from a static converter rather than being a true 3 phase supply. If it was then that MAY have some influence on the problem.

Les.

Edited By Les Jones 1 on 05/04/2021 17:39:39

You could try covering the rotor with engineer blue or a marker pen then run the motor in the direction that gives the noise. After it has run for a time you could examine the rotor to see if any of the marker has been rubbed off.
Depending on the design of the motor you could try rotating the end plates or swapping the rotor and end plates end to end. (If you try this make sure that the rotor would still be lined up axially with the stator.

Les.

I think Stuart Smith is probably thinking along the right lines. A thermal cut out (Or an intermittent connection inside the pump.) seems likely. It probably warms up and the contact breaks. It then cools down and the contact re makes.
It would be interesting to monitor the current to the pump to see if the current drops to zero when it stops.
I think a new pump will be the only solution as the ones I have seen are encapsulated in resin.

Les.

Edited By Les Jones 1 on 04/04/2021 12:36:34

Looking at your picture it looks like the casing is all plastic. I think connecting one side of the battery connections to the mill metal work may solve the problem. Just in case there is already some connection via metalwork that I can't see I suggest making the connection via a capacitor. I suggest about 100 nF but the value is not critical. Also it should not matter which battery connection you connect to. I think there is a removable cover to connections for a remote readout to the right of the battery cover. (As positioned in your picture.) There will be 4 connections. two connect to the battery. (You can check which these are with a DMM on the resistance range.) The other two connections will be data and clock signals. The battery connections under this cover are probably the easiest to make a connection to.

Les.

Possibly a rear roller from a cylinder type lawn mower.

Les.

Are the taps that give the problem fed from the high pressure mains supply that feeds the tank or are they fed from the output of the tank ? Assuming they are fed from the high pressure side it may be that the new ball valve has a snap action cut off rather than the type that gradually shuts off the flow into tank. I think Jon Lawes about air in the pipes acting as a cushion before the ball valve was replaced could be right. If so fitting a Hammer Arrester may solve the problem. (Search Toolstation, Screwfix, or plumbing suppliers for " Hammer Arresters" to find one.)

Les.

Hammer Arresters

From the link that old mart has provided check that you have set the parameters in table 11.1 on page 11 correctly.

Les.

If the saw blade was 80mm diameter then for the same cutting force the torque required would be 20 times as much as required for a 4mm diameter end mill. So if the saw blade was 2mm thick it would be like a 2mm depth of cut with a 4 mm end mill. I don't think I would attempt a 2mm depth of cut using a 4mm end mill on steel. To use the same motor you would need to gear it down by a ratio of 20:1 to increase the torque by 20:1
I agree with the other replies that the answer is NO.

Les.

Edited By Les Jones 1 on 05/03/2021 15:49:42

When I was working I ordered some 2032 (Or similar cells.) though the companies logistics system. when I opened the package I found they had been packed in anti static bags. And as I expected they were all totally flat. A good example of a rule being made to protect things being use without applying common sense.

Les.

I agree with Oldiron that you should start your own thread. Also I seem to remember seeing information on three versions of the WM250 One uses a fixed speed single phase induction motor. Another uses a DC motor with a speed controller and yet another uses a three phase motor driven by a VFD. It would help it you tell us which version you have. Put that information in the first post of your new thread.

Les.

Before applying a lot of force I suggest buying or making a key for the outside stopcock so you can turn off the water in the event of something breaking.

Les.

Does the motor run with no mechanical load on it ? (I.E the drive belt removed.) The larger value capacitor is the start capacitor. I think as it is a new motor you should Return it and get a replacement. Is it connected directly to the mains or via the internal lathe wiring ? I am surprised that Chester have supplied a Clarke motor. Is the connection information supplied with the motor identical to the first post of this thread ? If you want to do some investigation of the fault this is what I suggest. Remove the two link bars. Measure the resistance between U1 and U2. This will be the main winding and I would expect a resistance of less than 10 ohms. Measure the resistance between W1 and W2. This will be the auxiliary winding and it's resistance will be greater than the main winding. (But probably less than 20 ohms.) Measure the resistance between V1 an V2. This is the contacts on the centrifugal switch which should be closed when the motor is stopped and the reading should be very close to zero ohms. Report the readings and we can tell what is probably wrong with the motor. (Not that it really matters as you will have to return it as faulty.)

Les.

Edited By Les Jones 1 on 13/02/2021 18:05:25

Hi Noel,
I can see that the motor in your pictures has a changeover centrifugal switch but I don't understand how you KNOW that Keith's motor has this type of centrifugal switch. To reduce the number of conductors required between the motor and reversing switch I propose to swap over the blue and purple wires rather than the blue and yellow wires. (This is assuming yellow is connected to Z.) This is because the points A and AZ are already available at the reversing switch. If it is a changeover centrifugal switch I think the purple wire is the common of the changeover switch and the NO contact is connected to terminal K. BEFORE suggesting this I want to be SURE that there is no hidden connection between the main winding and auxiliary winding / capacitors / centrifugal switch.

Les.

You would be looking to see if there are any wires or links on the back of the board. For example terminal K only has a white wire from the run capacitor so unless there is something is connected to K on the underside of the board the run capacitor is not serving any purpose. IF Noel's suspicion that the centrifugal switch has changeover contacts is correct and the NO contact is connected to terminal K then the run capacitor would be connected in series with the run winding when the motor was up to speed. (Which is how it should be in circuit when the motor is up to speed.) I have only ever seen centrifugal switches which connect the start capacitor in parallel with the run capacitor until the motor is up to speed. Most motor are easy to take apart. There is normally 4 threaded rods holding the end plates together. There may also be bearing retainer plates that are held in place with two screws close to the bearing housings. The bearing will probably remain on the shaft when an end plate is removed. Take care to note the position of any springy washers that might be in the bearing housing.

Les.

Hi Keith,
The NVR switch in the picture is not suitable for the way I suggested wring it. This is because both ends of the coil are directly connected to the output. In this NVR switch on ebay there is a picture showing that one end of the coil winding is brought out to a separate terminal. (Marked A1) Any NVR which with one end of the coil brought out to it's own terminal can be used. It looks like there is no direct connection between K and AZ. The way your meter behaved is what I would expect when it is effectively connected to a capacitor. (In this case the run capacitor..I think the only way to confirm that the centrifugal switch is not the changeover type that Noel suspects is to partly dismantle the motor.

Les.