Here is a list of all the postings John Haine has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Total cost + import for Tormach PCNC 440, and alternatives?|
+1 for Denford. Though long in the tooth now there are many ex-school machines around with little use, and they are easy to upgrade to modern electronics and controller. A better bet than converting a manual mill IMHO. My Novamill cost £660 for the mechanics and under £200 for the controller bits, or you can buy a ready built controller for a reasonable price.
|Thread: Is it bad practice to lock my Myford lathe using the slow speed lever|
Well then, that's the answer, use the proper spindle lock!
My Super 7 has a sliding pin at the LH end of the headstock that engages a hole in the pulley to lock the spindle - I'm not sure if that's only on the later big bore version.
|Thread: small belts|
You can get O-ring material in continuous lengths, make a loop by joining with superglue in a jig. Or may be able to get a suitable large 1/3 or 3 mm O ring?
|Thread: Using a pillar drill for milling?|
NO! The Jacobs chuck will probably come off its taper in short order.
|Thread: Total newbie question - Collet identification|
Ross, I sent you a PM.
Taig / Peatol lathes and small mills. **LINK**
|Thread: The World of Buckminster Fuller|
I think it was he who, when a client complained that the roof of his new house was leaking, replied "of course it is, that's how you know it's a roof"...
|Thread: DTI identification|
I think DTIs are intended for use as comparators, not accurate or indeed precise measurement. Their calibration is ultimately dependent on a rack-and-pinion, not a precision thread or transducer. They do have high resolution, for example indicating 0.01 mm/division, but one division will not necessarily be 0.01 mm if you see what I mean. Though it would probably do the job in the application you show, for best accuracy you would be better using for example a DRO.
In the language of this a DTI has high resolution but is not very accurate or precise.
99% of the time one uses a DTI as an indicator, e.g. of runout or misalignment of a vice with a mill axis, and the measurement uints are irrelevant as you only want to get zero movement.
|Thread: Myford Super 7 and ER40 collet chuck|
The "old" Myford did do an ER40 chuck to fit the big bore lathe, I have one. You could make one, it's quite easy to machine both the internal ER taper and the closer thread, and you'd have good accuracy if you had a well-fitting blank to fit the nose thread to start with. You can buy ready-made closer nuts fairly cheaply, even ball bearing types.
But the length limitation I suspect would be a PITA, you'd have hardly any length behind the collet.
|Thread: Gents impulse clock|
Hmmm...that link doesn't work very well with an emoji in it Robert! Please could you try again?
As the clock is a bit of a "Topsy", there aren't really nice drawings for a constructor to follow I'm afraid. I have wondered about a more "this is what I did" type article for HJ.
|Thread: water supply|
Here in East Anglia, though we have had some rain in the last week, we have basically had a drought for an extended period of 2 - 3 years. When we moved here, we were warned about flooding in the vicinity, water was regularly running down the village main street, steams were full, paths muddy. None of that now. It would be all very well piping drinking water in from the NW where it's very wet, but there's no way you could import enough to soak the soil. Basically the climate is changing, it's getting hotter and drier, and extremes, of rain as well as temperature, are becoming more common. But the average rainfall here has declined a lot.
|Thread: Gents impulse clock|
Indeed, one of the reasons why my re-build of a Synchronome resets the gravity arm with a little stepper motor and uses another stepper to drive the hands, replacing the electromagnet in the slave clock. An Arduino controls the steppers sensing the pendulum with an opto coupler. Some teething problems, but nearly going.
Dave, the errors don't cancel, quite. They add up as a sort of "drunkard's walk" depending on the type of disturbance and the Q of the pendulum.
|Thread: ER25 collet arbour grub screw|
It may be to make sure the cutter goes in at a repeatable projection from the collet. I have some ER16 collet chucks with something similar.
|Thread: Illegal CD copy|
A slightly different situation, but all the archive of the Horological Journal has been scanned (from 1858 I believe) and is available to members on the BHI website. What's more, it's been OCR'd which makes the text searchable. I suspect that there's more interest in ME back numbers than HJ.
|Thread: Myford Dividing Head and Raising Block|
You probably need a raising block, but easy to make one, could use a lump of aluminium, cast iron, or mild steel.
Also if you are using an ER20 collet then I guess it's in an MT2 collet chuck? That will have quite a long overhang which will contribute to the problem. The Myford DH is best used with MT2 collets that fit the arbor direct, as long as your stock fits a standard collet. Options are either the Myford collets with the threaded closer, which are rarer than hen's dentures these days and anyway expensive; or to buy single finger collets like these and use a bit of studding as a drawbar.
|Thread: Need to drill a hole digital caliper|
Sorry, I forgot the link.
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