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Member postings for John Haine

Here is a list of all the postings John Haine has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Mobile Phone
18/01/2020 11:46:32
Posted by Harry Wilkes on 17/01/2020 21:10:50:

.......I live quite close to a mast and still only get one bar they'll tell me next I live to close, this is not the first time Ive complained but today I think I drew the village idot I will be phoning them again on Monday asking to talk to someone higher up the ladder


Being close to the base station would only help if its operator is the one that Tesco use to provide the actual service (which I think is O2). We nearly have line of sight to a mast less than half a mile away but O2 don't have a base station on it so it's no use.

Thread: Cutting teeth on a spur gear
17/01/2020 21:04:24

Yes you're right Jason, I forgot the addendum. Still the undercut problem with 8 teeth. For Michael's 10 teeth the module would be 4.2 mm at the same shaft diameter, or if the shaft was made 6 mm diameter you could go for 10 teeth. But it depends on the tooth form and module of the mating gear which presumably exists.

17/01/2020 20:32:31

You have two problems here Eric.

First, you need a cutter with module 5/8 = 0.625 mm which is non-standard at least for conventional involute gears.

Second, I believe that anyway an involute pinion with 8 teeth cannot be cut using a normal circular gear cutter because the teeth are undercut, at least for standard pressure angles. Looking for example at the Davall Gear Catalogue they jump from 0.5 to 0.7 mm module and therr standard range has a minimum tooth count of 12.

Pinions with small numbers of teeth are used in clocks with a so-called "cycloidal" form which has no undercut. As far as I know the only supplier around is PP Thornton who could supply you with an 0.6 mm module cutter but it will cost you £68.50.

If you could post a photo of the mating gear it would be easy to see if it used a cycloid or involute form. If it is cycloidal then you can make a flycutter quite easily.

Thread: Mobile Phone
17/01/2020 20:16:53

How well a phone works depends on network coverage, radio performance of the phone, and its internal software stack. The radio performance of phones (receiver sensitivity, effective radiated power etc) depends to a large extent on its physical design, size of its internal antennas and so on. Radio performance is a constant struggle between what the phone designed wants it to look like, ever increasing complexity and number of bands etc, and there are a lot of phones around that are frankly pretty ropy just considered as radios so they may not work as well as they ought to given the available network coverage.

There are only a small number of manufacturers of the actual chipsets used in phones - about 3 now - and working on a network depends on a complicated software stack in the phone which come from the same suppliers. Because phones have evolved over 3 generations of digital mobile technology - and now a 4th coming in - and every phone has to work on at least 3 network technologies today (2G/3G/4G) there seem to be odd behaviours in chipsets from particular suppliers that persist in phones for years.

We have had at least 2 phones in the past that have exhibited an odd behaviour where, despite apparently having a good signal and showing they have service, they will neither make nor receive calls or texts. Once they get in this mode the only thing to do is to restart the phone whereupon you may get deluged with texts and voicemail alerts, and all the texts you though you had sent but were queued in the phone get sent. This seems to be characteristic of a particular software stack from one of the major chip vendors. We haven't seen it on recent phones (2 Motorolas) but my wife just got a new Samsung phone where we have had the old problem reoccur. Since the chipset supplier concerned dominates the industry it is quite probable that this could have caused your problem.

So there is a basis for what you are told though it's very garbled - if the phone and stack are working properly it should work seamlessly without restarting provided its home network or one where your home provider has a roaming agreement in place has coverage.

Thread: rolling brass strip in the lathe
16/01/2020 09:47:33

Thanks everyone for the suggestions, especially Jason and Mr. Godley for the photos of setups. I'll report back on progress when I've tried it, one way or t'other!

Thread: Driving Small Taps
16/01/2020 09:44:47

Certainly down to M3 I almost always tap in the mill under power, if possible at the same setting just used to drill the hole with the tap in the chuck. Set the VFD frequency to just under 10 Hz-ish, use the quill lever feed to bring the point of the tap down to nestling in the hole keeping it under light pressure throughout, switch the drive to fwd so the tap cuts the thread, once it has threaded through switch to reverse to withdraw the tap. If it's a blind hole I just start the tap this was, then stop, lock quill, loosen chuck leaving the tap in the work, raise quill, finish off using a tee bar tap holder. Touch wood, I haven't broken a tap yet this way.

Thread: rolling brass strip in the lathe
15/01/2020 08:41:07

Thanks Jason! I knew that bending rolls would do the job from an article in HJ but not wanting to buy a set just for one job I need to improvise the same method. I hadn't thought of using the mill but that looks much better than the lathe. I've got a couple of big bearings too.

Thanks also for the other suggestions.

Thread: Carbide insert holders
14/01/2020 23:00:57

You could try JB Cutting Tools?

Thread: rolling brass strip in the lathe
14/01/2020 22:58:26

Thanks John.

  • The easy way
  • I will use a "capstan" roller in the chuck with secondary rollers to apply the pending force just like bending rolls do - the bezel diameter will be much bigger than the rollers (like 250 mm diameter).
  • So it will be a ring not a helix.
  • Super 7 with back gear, forming will be a bit at a time so should work I'd have thought? Bending rolls are manudraulic after all.
14/01/2020 16:44:13

I want to roll a bezel for the dial of my next clock, from brass strip say 5 x 10 mm. I believe this can be done using a set of rolls but I don't want to either buy or make this just for a one-off. I sure sure I have seen somewhere details of how a simple lathe fixture can be made so you can use a roller in the headstock against two other rollers on some kind of bracketry. Does this ring any bells for anyone, if so could they remind me please? Alternatively if you have direct experience please share?

Thread: Help with finding or making router duplicator
14/01/2020 15:59:26

I'm amazed!

14/01/2020 14:02:02

I think the answer will be "no"! Quite a few low cost CNC routers around, depending on what size you want, search for "6040 cnc" on eBay. If you want to copy something then you need a model of its shape, which you can derive by making a 3D scan - you could do this on the same machine except with a touch probe instead of a cutter. Or a laser scan, or I think there are quite low-cost ways to process digital photos to derive the shape.

Thread: Only for Myford lathes
13/01/2020 17:32:36

Well! Thanks for that suggestion Stevie. Not only can the motor move but it had moved! Investigating at least one of the clamps was loose, and obviously over the years with starts and stops the motor had rotated in its mounts until preessure on the cable gland stopped it. I was able to tighten the clamp on the back of the motor by several turns, the one at the front the screw head is inaccessible. I hope the nut doesn't shake loose! So moved the motor back to what was probably its original position, straightened cover fits well, doesn't foul the faceplate. So looks like at least one step in the QA process was missed - check the motor saddle screws are tight! This also explains why at some point the motor developed a horrible rattle, when the guard plate was just touching the motor.

13/01/2020 17:05:18
Posted by Steviegtr on 13/01/2020 16:56:10:

Is the motor mount the same as the older ones. As mine has 2 saddles around the neck of the motor , that can be slackened & the motor can be rotated on its mounts.

Aha! I will check, thanks for the tip!

13/01/2020 16:53:19

Big bore lathe has MT4 - but beware that it won't take full length MT4 tapers! I bought one from RDG to make a test bar and it didn't fit - you'd think they would know!

And just now tried I think for the first time fitting the faceplate I bought new with the lathe. The bit of bent steel supposed to keep swarf out of the motor fouled the faceplate! Further investigation showed that when it was fitted they had to bend it to avoid it fouling on the cable gland on the motor - presumably a different motor pattern. If I bend it back to how it appears to have been made it clears the faceplate but won't fit over the motor.

Great British Engineering.

Thread: magic 127 TOOTH ?
13/01/2020 09:36:22

Or even more magic, CNC, cut all those threads, tapers, balls, other odd shapes, etc etc....

Thread: Only for Myford lathes
12/01/2020 22:58:20
Posted by Steviegtr on 12/01/2020 11:29:37:
Posted by John Haine on 12/01/2020 11:14:40:
Posted by Steviegtr on 12/01/2020 10:39:18:

Did you put that on youtube, as I've seen one on there.

There's more than one, but I haven't.

So was it worth doing the CNC conversion. I bet it took a while setting up.

Absolutely. Not too much time but done in stages over the years as I learned more.

Thread: What Vice should I buy (2019)
12/01/2020 19:04:50

Boil to remove superglue.

Thread: Only for Myford lathes
12/01/2020 11:14:40
Posted by Steviegtr on 12/01/2020 10:39:18:

Did you put that on youtube, as I've seen one on there.

There's more than one, but I haven't.

Thread: What Vice should I buy (2019)
12/01/2020 09:47:26

"So my first question is what size vice makes sense? Currently I have a 2 inch machine vice and a 3 inch RDGTools vice which looked big on my CMD10 and a bit silly on the new mill."

What does it matter what it looks like? Why not see how you get on with these and consider a larger vice when you need it? I've been milling for quite a long time and probably 70 or 80 % of the work I do I either clamp direct to the table or to an angle plate. A large vice clutters the table and eats daylight under the spindle.

I do have a 100 mm vice for my Myford VMB, which came with the swivel base. I don't think I've ever used the latter! I also have a little old-style Myford vice and a small one that I bought for a vertical slide (never used) from Chronos - it was a pig's ear as supplied though looked nice, ground all over. After re-machining it and making a new moving jaw it's OK. The latter two I find really useful on the VMB and my Novamill.

Bigger is not necessarily better!

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