Here is a list of all the postings John Haine has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Parvalux motor|
Rather unlikely I think. A 24V motor is most likely to be a PM type or possibly shunt wound field.
|Thread: Part breakout /fixturing|
Elsewhere on here I've described applying blue masking tape on surface of a backing plate and on the underside of the material; then gluing the latter down with superglue. Relatively easy to peel the blue tape off.
Another approach which should work is just to superglue it direct - this is more secure but harder to remove. However I once by mistake forgot to apply the blue tape to the material so had to remove it with heat - I found that a relatively short boil in water did an excellent job. As people use superglue as a replacement for "wax chucks" (see Clickspring videos) it's only the same idea applied to milling.
|Thread: Cutting brass with saw questions|
And quick Google gives lots of results too.
I'm fairly certain that ages ago there was an article in MEW about adapting an electric jigsaw as a filer. You could also do something similar with a nibbler I imagine. And Harold Hall described his own design.
I run 1 mm endmills at the max speed of my CNC spindle which is about 5000 rpm. I've crossed out wheels and cut out a lot of brass making some loco nameplates with this with no breakages, max feed ~100 mm/min.
The router cutters that I have are more like slot drills with straight flutes, not burrs. And engraving cutters are more like pointed D bits. For wheels, work has one screw through the centre hole into a bit of MDF-type material, for security, wheel also stuck using superglue on 2 layers of blue masking tape, one on the MDF and one on the brass.
|Thread: Amadeal lathes - Any good??|
Many people including me have had very good experiences with Arc Eurotrade who sell similar machines and give excellent customer service.
|Thread: Free or inexpensive 2D cad for clock wheels|
+1 for Gearotic. Generate G-Code directly to cut teeth and spokes.
I assume you want to make a drawing you can cut out and stick to the material - otherwise just draw on he metal with ruler and compasses. Open Office Draw, or the very similar Libre Office Draw, will do that fine. Both free.
|Thread: Installing a magnetic DRO on my VM32L|
There should be a thin stainless steel strip between the magnetic encoder strip and the read head to protect the former. In the MDRO kits there are slots in the extrusion supplied to fit the encoder to the machine to take the steel strip. Absent that I guess you could stick the strip to the encoder with double-sided but seems a bit of a kluge.
|Thread: whats this socket used for?|
I got an interesting variant of the AC/DC radio when I were a lad from a jumble sale, probably for sixpence. Got it proudly home but it was d.o.a. My dad (professional electrical engineer with a non-nonsense approach to electrical safety) did some faultfinding and established that it had what he called a "line cord" - basically the dropper resistor was made of resistance wire forming one conductor of the cable! There was a break near one end, the plug end I guess in retrospect, so he shortened the cord slightly, refitted the plug and it worked! I listened to it for quite a long time until something else went wrong. As well as the nice light from the dial for reading in bed you could warm your hands on the cable.
|Thread: A plate vice mod|
Is the location of the maximum eccentricity relative to the thread important in getting the thing to lock?
Will, I like the ramps on the fixed blocks - adds downwards force.
John, I notice from HH's website that he uses hex material for the clamp bit so it looks more like the Mitee-Bite.
Anyway, when I get a tuit I will try making some - probably the first thing to do would be some tee nuts to match the VMB table but with M6 thread so I can use the "proper" clamp its on it.
Aha! Neat. Looks like the eccentric is a separate part from the SHCS - is that right, and is it fixed with loctite? Is the clamping bit hardened at all?
Yes they're Mitee Bites. They were part of the educational package around the Novamill that Denford supplied to schools so came with the mill, had the ebay seller realised he could get a good price for them separately I'm sure he would. I wouldn't have bought them separately but they are very good. You could equally use for example Mike Cox's low profile clamp design. Some grub screws probably will go in the holes to keep the grot out.
That's the plan, when required.
For some time I've been wondering about a quick way to clamp thin material to mill the edges, or drill odd holes. Finally got round to making some simple mods to my standard machine vice.
I unbolted the standard ground steel jaws, milled a tiny amount off both the top surfaces at the same setting so they are co-planar. A 12 x 6 mm MS strip is bolted on the top of the fixed jaw, set back 3 mm to form a step. Two M6 tapped holes in the top of the moving jaw to take two of the moving bits of my Mite-E-Bite clamps that came with the small CNC mill. Simple matter to adjust the moving jaw so the MTB clamps are close to the edge of the plate then use the latter to do the clamping. This way only the strip at the back needs to be parallel to the X-feed.
Here's a bit of plate destined to be a panel for an electronics enclosure clamped ready for one side to be squared off.
|Thread: Need to know about iPad 'air'|
Just to reiterate, it isn't just a case of the hardware, the operating system on the iPad needs to be recent enough to support Zoom. iOS8 at least is needed, so if you get a refurbished one make sure that it is updated. Apparently by the time the Air was discontinued they were up to v12 so it should be OK.
I just checked actually and an iPad Air should have iOS 12 if kept updated, Zoom only needs 8 so should be fine.
You would need to check that the iPad operating system is recent enough to support the zoom app. I know that some of the video calling apps are not supported on older OSs. The Zoom webpage should specify what versions of iOS are needed and the ipad seller should be able to say what version is installed.
|Thread: 2mm endmill help|
More likely spindle or collet runout.
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.