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Member postings for John Haine

Here is a list of all the postings John Haine has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Chester v20 R8 conversion ?
17/12/2018 18:08:39

Looking at the Chester website they don't supply an R8 version. R8 collets are considerably bigger than MT2 so it's quite likely the spindle will be smaller for the latter. though I favour R8 I suspect you wouldn't find the conversion easy.

Thread: Year of Engineering
16/12/2018 20:28:09

Andrew, indeed!

Thread: Eccentric's "Turnado"
16/12/2018 18:20:52

Well I was really interested by this thread and thought it would be nice to have something like this for my little Unimat. I didn't want to fit it on the Myford because the toolpost doesn't get moved off that unless I really can't avoid it since all the tool calibration would be wrong. Unfortunately the official versio won't fit such a small lathe, and having just made a tangential toolpost/holder I thought it might be neat to make my own miniature version.

img_20181216_170530493_hdr.jpg

I found this nice steel plate with the two faces turned flat and parallel in the material I inherited from my dad - very dirty and a few dings but cleaned up nicely. Clamps to a bar under the bed with a csk M6 bolt. I thought that I'd need to mill a vee slot on the underside but found that the small flat on the top of the "prism" of the front bedway is co-planar with the real way.

img_20181216_170506989_hdr.jpg

This is the tangential holder bolted down to a 1/2" brass block, also found lurking in the scrap box and machined all over, and down to a thickness to bring the tool tip easily to centre height. Brass slides easily on the steel plate. Note that the block projects under the tool tip so there's no tendency for it to tip when cutting.

img_20181216_170520235_hdr.jpg

First attempt at turning a bit of brass rod (after sucking up all the swarf).

So I feel slightly bad about copying at least the principle of Gary's design but couldn't have bought one to fit anyway. I can feel a pen coming on...

Thread: Cost of Brass
16/12/2018 13:07:31

I gather that Clock B in an uncompleted state spent many years in Martin Burgess' workshop but the dural great wheel on the machine now displayed in the NMM is the original.

I always thought aluminium bronze would be a good material for clock parts, but no idea of the price.

15/12/2018 22:20:22

Plates - why not aluminium? And use small ball bearings instead of conventional pivots. More scientific instrument style.

Wheels - duralumin or similar alloy. The great wheel of Clock B is made of dural, if it's good enough for Martin Burgess...

Stainless feels like it may be hard to machine to me.

Personally I find the highly polished brass effect of many clocks most off-putting.

Thread: Arc Euro ER16 runout
15/12/2018 16:34:43

Following Joseph's observations I thought that a good substitute for a double-sided spanner would be a socket. I didn't have a 25mm socket in my set, and anyway since one will be tightening the collet with either a tool or material in the collet a long-series socket is needed to give it room. It seems to be near impossible to get a long series 25mm conventional socket, but I managed to locate one designed for impact driving on Amazon from KS Tools. Conveniently it has transverse holes at the drive end that with a bit of easing allowed a 25 mm tommy bar through. This allows me to tighten the nut hard without applying much or any transverse force.

I also needed a way to lock the spindle - the collet end has a pair of flats which are 20 mm a/f bit only about 6 mm wide. Believe it of not buying a thin 20 mm open-end spanner seems to be near impossible, they are all about 10mm thick at the business end. Eventually I gritted my teeth, got out my trusty 8 mm TC slot drill, and reduced the a/f dimension to just under 19 mm so I can use the very nice "Williams Superslim" spanner that came with my VMB. This was a job made very easy as I could hold the spindle in a JS ER40 collet block.

Thread: Change of direction a single phase capacitor run motor
15/12/2018 16:16:16

A quick check with a multimeter should confirm, or not, that the windings are similar. If their resistances are more or less equal it's likely to work.

14/12/2018 15:00:28

Stricly that amounts to mounting the stator back to front, leaving the rotor the same. Since the rotor has rotational symmetry, rotating it end for end has no effect. Swapping the stator would only work in an existing machine if the stator is symmetrical about the axis perpendicular to rotation, otherwise the ends of the shaft will be in the wrong axial position.

Thread: R8 Collet Chuck or R8 Collet
14/12/2018 12:39:35

No question IMHO, go for R8 collets direct in the spindle. Easy to torque up, I just apply a spanner to the drawbar and hold the qull in my hand, good yank on the spanner, done. I have never had a milling tool shift in the collet. To release just loosen drawbar nut and give the top of it a gentle tap with the flat of the spanner head. Yes there can be a problem reaching thin material clamped direct to the table with a short or small cutter, in that rare case need to use a longer cutter. Great to have an extra 40mm or so extra daylight under the quill.

Thread: Telephone / Internet Scams
14/12/2018 11:14:04

Spoofing a caller ID is trivial, there's probably a little app you can download for Skype that does it.

Thread: ML7 questions
14/12/2018 11:10:54

I'm not sure why there is so much discussion about spanners. It matters not a jot what the label on the spanner says, its across flats distance needs to be just a shade bigger than the a/f measurement of the nut.

Thread: Change of direction a single phase capacitor run motor
14/12/2018 11:08:08

The above is the recommended Parvalux circuit to reverse I think the SD13 motor as used on the Quorn. W1 and W2 need to be identical for it to work properly. Somewhere on this forum I gave some analysis and measurements on the SD13 to show how it works.

14/12/2018 11:06:35

Or indeed the other winding, or use this approach...

image.jpeg

Thread: If you bought this lathe what would you do?
12/12/2018 18:48:17
I wonder if Chester have been following this thread?
Thread: Soldering
12/12/2018 08:33:59

B&Q also stock Go System torches and gas which is the same as Bernzomatic, round in the plumbing section just to confuse people, especially the people that work there. As well as propane you can get MAPP gas which gives a hotter flame.

Thread: If you bought this lathe what would you do?
11/12/2018 22:34:16

If you bought it new from Chester, it has a bent leadscrew and the half nuts stuck open, there's no question, it is not of merchantable quality. Reject it with even attempting to fix any of the problems.

And I suggest that you insist on a refund.

Edited By John Haine on 11/12/2018 22:35:17

Thread: Help with Electrics on Emco FB-2 Milling head/table
10/12/2018 18:00:22

Richard, do you have the lathe manual, and does it have a wiring diagram in it? If so then that should be enough to trace the connections. If you don't have a schematic then it's a matter of tracing the wiring out to work out how it was connected and therefore how it should be. Maybe if you can take the cover off that switch and posted a photo of how the wires were connected inside it would help?

Thread: New to CNC
10/12/2018 15:07:13

Alas, it seems that G-Simple which I recommended isn't available any longer, the download has been removed from the web.

Thread: ML7 questions
10/12/2018 12:51:08

I use a digital height gauge also. Using CNC with calibrated tools, all the tools need to be at centre height for the offsets to work properly at all radii. The only way I have found to do this accurately is to measure the height and keep adjusting it until it measures right.

If you have a gauge that has a gauge surface above the tool, it is difficult to guarantee that the tool isn't a bit too high and slightly lifting the gauge.

So I use the height gauge, lowering the measuring bit until it touches the cutting edge while holding the gauge firmly down to the bed.

To measure your exact centre height, turn a short length of bar to say ~12mm dia, measure with a micrometer whilst still in the chuck, divide by 2 to get radius, then use height gauge to measure to the top of the turned length from the bed and subtract the radius. For my Super 7 the answer was so close to 76.2 mm (3.5" as to make no difference.

Thread: Arc Euro ER16 runout
10/12/2018 10:41:47

Yes, I'd forgotten that the older (pre Unimat 3) models had the ability to rotate the headstock around a vertical axis for taper turning, so one can make the collet taper without a topslide. My 3 of course doesn't have that feature.

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