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Member postings for Ramon Wilson

Here is a list of all the postings Ramon Wilson has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Out of round turning
15/08/2010 20:54:43
Hi Mark,
Given the size of the material you are turning it's unlikely that the material is exhibiting any form of stress release. That said if the skin of any material exhibits a relative hardness then the initial cuts can sometimes produce the effect you are getting but should be long gone by the time you get to the finished size you quote. 'Black' hot rolled bar is not very round at its best so is usually skimmed before final turning.
Normally though, if something turns out of round it's usually a, the tool or  b, the work  'moving' in or out relative to each other. If the headstock and tailstock are 'sound' then it may be caused by the cross slide and/or the top slide gibs needing a nip up. The run out of 03 is quite small so movement wouldn't need to be much.
There are other factors that can come into play also  - a faulty tailstock live centre - though this normally would produce a tapering effect down the length of the work - and/or worn jaws or scroll in the chuck. Is this 03 run out consistant down the length of the reduced diameter?
If the .03 run out is still there after a final .05 cut - take two passes at the same setting - then you probably have to look at the set up. Start with the chuck as movement of the tool is unlikely with such a small depth of cut.
Hope this gives you some idea from where to start to look
Regards - Ramon
Thread: Rotary table stops
15/08/2010 18:02:19

Hi Pete just seen this - been and measured it ...
The slot is 8.1  deep from the outer face. The width is 5.8.
The 'tee' width is approx 11 and the top flange (?) is 4 thick.
The tee nut is 10.7 wide by 20 long with the upstand 5.7 wide and 3.9 high. the base (tee width) is 3.3 at it's widest part
The inner most part of the tee nut is flat but the outer and bearing  faces are curved to match the radii of the slot and outer diameter.
The stop blocks are just machined to the same radius as the outer diameter but will twist when slack which can be a bit awkward when setting up. If I made some more they would have a register to fit the slot to prevent this.
The tools by the way were gashed on a surface grinder but then ground free hand and have a cutting face of 2.6 wide by 3.1 deep
I made the table about 1980 - the table slots were cast in originally and were rather large and a bit rough so were machined out at a later date at work when a suitable tee slot cutter materialised
Hope this helps  bit more
Regards - Ramon
15/08/2010 00:07:50
Ah Pete you have a point but I did remove the table first and it is only 6" dia!
I would have thought that drilling and tapping a series of holes in the periphery for two screw in pegs which could then have a fixed bar with adjustable stops either side between them would do the same thing. The mods above slowly 'evolved' - the fixed bar was fitted first and for some time the 'stops' were a pair of toolmakers clamps 'strategically' placed. A pain at times but it worked for quite a while before finally a job arrived that needed proper stops.
Regards - Ramon
Thread: How to close account?
14/08/2010 23:54:26

Well I don't know quite what's happened but acting upon Davids advice I thought I would change one accounts details as suggested.
Logged out and, just to be sure logged back in again. Sure enough it defaults to the 'other' account but now it does not log me in .  The boxes go blank and another click to bring up the email and password brings up the 'correct' account 
So - whoever fixed this - Thanks. If it was you 'Kelvin', lurking out there in the background somewhere  - Big Thanks.
A one word email - 'sorted' would have surficed but unlike Charlie I'm not a big complainer and this is small beer to what is on offer but I do agree you do do us all a big service overall.
THANKS (and no I'm not shouting!)
14/08/2010 18:15:50
Hi Sid - Yes from my perspective it's not really such a problem as I said I don't log out unless it does it automatically and that's when, if I'm not paying attention, I come back in on a different account. I have to say that after the frequent 'auto logging out' problems whilst posting on here in my early days things seem to have settled down but I am now - well most times that is - well locked into copying the post as I do it just to be sure.
I have recently been posting on another (areomodelling) site which has been an absolute pleasure to use so it can be done
What we have though is, to my mind, excellent - it would just be nice to have the option of being able to get rid of it should one choose and even nicer if it was explained why you can't (or can?) deal with it.
Thread: Rotary table stops
14/08/2010 17:45:19
Hi Pete,
I don't know if his will be of help but I modified my MES rotary table for stops some time ago
I cut a tee slot into the edge with two slotting lathe tools and made curved stops.
The stop block is a piece of cast let in to the base. Work very well indeed and solves the problem of counting turns, marking with felt pen, and of course the coolant problem but like KWIL  I usually cut dry or use coolant applied with a brush - depends of course on what you are cutting and at what rate. Whatever these couple of pics may be of help .......

Hope they are of use - good luck
Thread: Competition
27/07/2010 18:05:25
Thanks Clare,
Well it was just a matter of an email chaps - I can't see much wrong with that. Perhaps you should offer a 5" loco next time Clare - bet you'd get a better response to that
Thread: Good service
21/07/2010 23:06:19
Thanks for the warning George - I'm sorry to hear of your predicament., I've been out this evening and did nothing more than unpack it this afternoon so fore warned is fore armed. Having it stuck as you say is a real setback.  I shall be careful of this and pass your advice on to friend John who also has one.
Regards - Ramon
21/07/2010 17:20:55

Late on Sunday (after discussion with the boss I must add) I decided to purchase a dividing head.
I settled on a Vertex '0' which takes the Myford chucks and duly placed an order.
It has just arrived, literally. Perfect condition and way, way before I had anticipated.
With free carriage and considerably cheaper than their nearest rivals service like that should not go unrecognised. So well done Warco I am well pleased and feel others should know too.
Regards - Ramon (usual disclaimer)
Thread: ARGUS oscillator
19/07/2010 09:26:10
A nice neat piece of workmanship Peter, as Rob so ably says welcome to the fold.
I remember my first oscilator - the cylinder was from a brass end cap usualy fitted to heavy duty electric cable . Made in the engineers shop on board the rig North Star this was before my first lathe and was a cut and file job including the flywheel. Simple yes, crude - even more so but it did work  you obviously know the feeling Though not part of the engineering side on the rig  I spent many an hour enjoying myself in that shop. The chief engineer Jack Buglass was a great mentor and was a great one for inovation.
Good luck with the mill engine keep us informed of progress
Regards - Ramon
Thread: Nova 1 compression ignition engine
16/07/2010 10:57:45
Well I guess youre not alone there Neil - theres one or two residing under the bench and up the loft here too but getting 'side tracked' can have its virtues - big thing with these small engines is that they are not, on the scale of things, very long projects.
I wish you well on your start and look forward to seeing your progress on here
Regards - Ramon
Thread: Fitting a Chuck to a Rotary Table
14/07/2010 22:28:45
I use a 4" 3 Jaw in this fashion regularly.
I have a 3/8 thick 5" dia. 'sub plate' that has a short male register turned on one side to locate in the RT and a female register on the top side that accepts a plug to register the chuck concentrically. The chuck was drilled for 6mm capheads that hold it to the sub plate (from beneath), the sub plate is then held to RT with 6mm capheads into tee nuts in the RT slots
I should add that the 3 jaw is the Myford type with internal thread and register which makes the above relatively straight forward. This will of course be more of a problem if the chuck has a conventional backplate.
In the near future I'm intending to make a low profile indexing table and intend to drill right through the chuck for the hold down bolts. This will eliminate the sub plate.
Hope this helps as well
Regards - Ramon

Edited By Ramon Wilson on 14/07/2010 22:31:48

Thread: Nova 1 compression ignition engine
14/07/2010 22:11:25
Now thereby lies the nub Neil.
The En1a was chosen because of machining those very thin fins. In combination with cast it makes for a reasonably good bearing so given it's not going to be flogged to death I though that that combination for this rather slow rev-ver would be okay - seems to be holding up so far.
Time to get cutting? 
Regards  - Ramon
Thread: Cutting a Groove - help needed
12/07/2010 13:55:43
Just a thought but can you not make a plug for the 40mm bearing hole previously machined (assuming its concentric of course) and then use tailstock support. The rpm/tooling sounds okay as others have said but the dig in and blade loss is probably due to insufficient holding power for the dia given what you describe.
Also not driving the tool on full width very deep then retracting and moving over each side to widen the slot will aid relieving pressure as much as possible. Hope that's not granny teaching.
Regards - Ramon
Thread: Setting up a new workshop
11/07/2010 12:48:16
I can't express enough how much I feel for you over this disaster. It is the thing of nightmares and what most of us dread and hope will never happen. Losing replaceable kit is bad enough but to lose ones models has to be soul destroying. I admire your resilience and determination to get back.
Your advice on being prepared is sound. Like you sometime back I began an inventory and was amazed just what is there - much totally irreplaceable if for nothing else simply time left on this planet.
Insurance does need to be checked carefully - I have mine with Aviva (formerly Norwich Union) which specifies my lathe and mill as well as tooling. Many of the 'deals' on household insurance do not offer more than about £5000 for outside buildings.
I can't offer any advice on modern machine tools as my Myford lathe and Linley mill have been with me for many years. However having read so many varied opinions on the imported kit there seems to be good scope for obtaining something that will do the job required for the expenditure you intend. For myself, I would go down the totally metric route where possible - purchasing, where Lawrie says, outside of this only when needs must.
Your thoughts on writing this awful experience up  - start to finish - would be something we could all benefit from so I hope David will take you up on it and you will see fit to be able to do so as time goes on.
All the very best in your adversity Terry - I wish you well in your recovery.
Regards - Ramon

Edited By Ramon Wilson on 11/07/2010 12:51:18

Thread: ED Racer 'times two'
03/07/2010 23:37:19
Hullo John, Thanks for the kind comments.
I would love to be able to say that I still had my first engine - AM10 (1958) - but regretably not so.
When you refer to the engine with the intake shortened is that another AM15? I believe in their second or so production life they did a version which was fitted with a throttle insert for R/C work so perhaps that's why.
The Comp Sec and O&R were a bit before my interest began but I remember having an OS Max 3 19 which was similar in construction, if not a bored version, to the 15. Very nicely made engines then and now.
Regarding lapping - nothing special is needed. There have been many articles that have covered this in depth but the basics (for me) are -
A short piece of threaded rod that will go inside the piston with a cross hole drilled through it that will accept the gudgeon pin (clearance fit will do). This screws into a stub of ali held in the chuck which is turned down to just a tad smaller than the piston diameter to allow the lap to move over. Turn a short (1.5mm) shoulder on this to act as a register for the inside of the piston. The rod is screwed in until the piston is tight against the shoulder.
My piston laps are mainly from brass, either small rectangular blocks with a hole bored though a slide fit on the piston or slices of round bar with the hole eccentric. This is then slit and cross drilled for a closing screw eg 4BA caphead. The thickness of the slice is usually about 2/3 to 3/4 the length of the piston. I haven't found the need to put any grooves in to retain the lapping compound. Depending on the amount to come off - 1-2 thou at most - I normally begin with 320 grit then 600 and finally 1000 making sure both lap and piston are really cleaned between each change of grit size. Use plenty of lubricant - parafin with a small drop of lube oil has proved sufficient and about 300 RPM. Move the lap so that it extends over each end of the piston about 1/4 of the lap width.
Lap the piston until it will just enter the bore cleaning the piston carefully before trying each time. I then use a tee bar handle drilled this time for a good fit on the gudgeon pin and now holding the liner in one hand and using a back and forth and wringing action slowly lap the piston to the bore using a very small amount of 1000 grit.
This can prove quite tight to begin with but will suddenly 'give'. At this stage remove the piston and thoroughly clean both the liner and piston before re-assembly with a drop of light oil.
A quick method of cleaning is to use gun cleaner cellulose thinner. Put some in a sealeable container drop the piston or liner or lap in - one at a time that  is.  Seal and give a quick swirl  to remove virtually all the residue. A second container  makes a really squeaky clean job of it.
Hope that helps you, like all things it's a matter of trying and having a go. If you've not done it before try 'lapping' a test peice first to see how effective the process is before you tackle a  piston - it's a bit of a gut wrencher when you realise you are under
Regards - Ramon
Thread: Nova
21/06/2010 13:51:56
Richard, that is a very interesting and thought provoking comment.
You are perfectly correct and in hindsight I can see my reasoning was perhaps a little flawed. The article (and I assume it is that in ME that you are refering too and not the other thread) was intended to be much more an account of how the project was accomplished rather than from a constructional point of view but not  to have stated its capacity and bore and stroke is definitely a senior moment! I will see if it is not too late to be ammended. FYI however it is 16.0 bore X 22.0 stroke giving a capacity of 4.5cc.
The reason the drawings were not sent with the article was because of concern over possible copyright.  'Model Aircraf't' magazine was published at the time by I believe Percival Marshall - now long gone of course but which may now be however part of some corporation.
There are other drawings of this engine available. The editor tells me only yesterday that he has just  purchased a set off ebay. The 'Model Engine News' web site produce a 'book' of plans on CD which also includes the Nova along with some excellent other small I/C projects.
I hope that this helps resolve your disappointment - rest asured your comments will be taken on board for anything in the future.
Regards - Ramon
Thread: Nova 1 compression ignition engine
18/06/2010 22:28:30
Hi Neil,
Yes of course. You are the second person to say this but I purposefully left the drawings out because I wasn't sure about copyright. The original magazine they appeared in - a 1946 copy of 'Model Aircraft' (as opposed to 'Aeromodeller') - was, I believe, published by Percival Marshall. Long gone I think but  whether they are technically part of some 'corporation' of today I wouldn't know.
Hemingways are going to produce castings and materials for a few engines from the Roger Schroeder 'collection' - about eight I believe and one of these will be the Nova1. They are not due to come on stream until the autumn but where the Nova will figure in the release schedule I have no idea.
In the meantime if you fancy machining a crankcase from solid then send me a PM with your address.
Peter Gain - would you check your messages when you can - I have returned yours ref the above.
Regards  - Ramon
Thread: cutting a thin brass disc
14/06/2010 18:02:43
Dave, I have used  the following way before.  Certainly works for small discs providing light cuts are taken and you have a revolving centre
1 Cut out material -  octagon or rough circle. Best to get it as close as reasonable to keep the number of cuts down
2 Chuck a piece of steel the same or just above the diameter required, Face and deep centre. Turn to diameter of disc if required then part off the end about 3/8 long.
Face the end still in the chuck. Hold material against face and bring the other piece up to bear applying  pressure with the tailstock. This will allow light cuts - if it does slip a piece of paper between face and part will help.
Very sharp tool and very light cuts.
Just another variation
Hope this is of use to you
Regards - Ramon
Touche Mick my apologies for repeating your advice

Edited By Ramon Wilson on 14/06/2010 18:03:46

Thread: manifold
13/06/2010 13:04:51

Nice one Rob but will it stand the heat.
David I have made manifolds/small silencers for two stroke glow engines (which have a very hot exhaust) to 61 size. They were made from ally and held together with a two pack epoxy type product called JB Weld. The early silencers were held together with a long central screw as well but the later ones were just JB Weld'ed with only one screw holding the silencer to the manifold. Virtually all were for aircraft - no failures experienced flying them regularly and in competition.
Here are a couple of before and after pics of a manifold made for an HP61 marine engine which is JB Weld'ed to the engine exhaust
Hope this helps give you some idea - any thing else just ask.
regards - Ramon


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