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Member postings for Ramon Wilson

Here is a list of all the postings Ramon Wilson has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: ED Racer 'times two'
21/05/2010 22:49:50
 
Thanks Martin, sharing it has been a pleasure - I can learn as well as others thats the great thing about this forum. You too Bill, yes the Racer was always a favourite - my second engine after an AM10 way back in '58! It started me on a long love affair with rear intake motors - always had a weakness for those ever since.
 
The crankshaft is a composite - the main part including the two bearing diameters the web and crankpin was made from EN24T and was drilled and reamed right through 6.35mm. It was counterbored at the web end 7mm dia for about 8mm deep and the inner shaft was turned to suit from a 8mm caphead bolt to a good push fit and Loctited in. The whole was then turned between centres and the thread screwcut. The only reason I did this was to conserve the rather limited  supply of EN24 and of course it does mean a lot less roughing to do.  
 
Thanks again - glad you enjoyed it
 
Regards - Ramon
 
PS - I notice the advert overlap has crept back again.
 
Ian(Circlip), is the long link the culprit? I notice your occasional friendly dig at Terryd for those. If so how does one post a short link ie ones like - "see(here)" ? Can you (or anyone else) cast any light on the matter.

Edited By Ramon Wilson on 21/05/2010 22:54:48

20/05/2010 23:29:27
Hi All
 
Well as you have probably seen elsewhere sometime has been spent on the anodising process but the parts for the engines were steadily worked on and were finished just over a week ago.
 
I turned one rotor from the oil filled nylon which looks like Fairy soap and turns a bit like it too! Actually it wasn't that bad and proved to be reasonably dimensionally stable after parting off. Biggest problem was having to do several test holes to establish a decent sized hole to fit the rotor pin freely but without wobble. Reaming it proved a non starter as it just closed in after the reamer was with drawn. The other (and a spare ) was machined from Tufnol and was much easier to do.
 
As with any new design there were one or two 'tweaks' to get things to fit better - a mm off the first shoulder on the crankshaft to allow the prop driver to go back further and quite a bit off the contra piston length and the cylinder head register to allow the contra piston to rise - still haven't worked out why this was but the maths obviously went a bit awry in this area it appears!
 
The first full test assembly then with just the anodising to go
 
 
After a strip down and another clean it was time for the anodising and the final assembly
 

I decided not to anodise the prop drivers because of the difference in colour up take as described on the anodising thread. Something I shall be aware of in future.
 
That was it then nothing left to do but to try 'em.
 
The first one tried (steel liner CI piston) fired on the first flick - honestly - but it was only on the exhaust prime! It soon burst into life however and after clearing itself of a bit of fuel settled down to a nice rich run on the 13 x 5 prop revs just over 4000. I have to think of the neighbours so it only ran for about 2/3 mins.
 
 
 
The second (C/I piston and liner) proved a bit more difficult but this was due to the contra piston not being able to back off enough - more fettling required there - and it proved easier to flood the but once going the run was faster - just short of 7000 but despite a rich setting it began to heat a bit so the run was curtailed after opening the needle right out had little effect on reducing the revs compared to the previous one.
 
I should add that three spray bars were made of differing diameters to see what difference they would give. This second engine had the second smaller dia fitted.
 
That's it, the end of the project and very enjoyable it has been too. The nice thing about these engines is their relatively short build time.
 
I will post a few more shots of the engines on the album section and of course just a reminder that most of the machining pics are on this link.
 
A friend has offered to video them running next week on a decent camera so I'll post the link. In the meantime I hope it's been of interest to some, the feedback I have recieved both here and the other relevant threads has been very encouraging - Thank you all indeed.
 
Regards for now - Ramon

Edited By Ramon Wilson on 20/05/2010 23:35:07

Edited By David Clark 1 on 27/05/2010 16:02:07

Thread: Diesel fuel
20/05/2010 19:38:56
Hi again Robert,
Not good news I'm afraid, Robin has replied as follows:
 
"Wish I could help with a source for Diesel. The last lot I acquired was from a pal who brought it from the UK.

Previously , I'd bought Ether from the Pharmacy near home here in France but it was enormously expensive. I also had to buy 5 litres at a time.

Don't know anywhere who sells diesel.

This chap will have to enquire at his pharmacy for ether like I did . He won't be able to buy any additives either to improve the mix.

Castor and paraffin are easy to buy .

Wish I could be of some more help.

The diesel fuel I have will last me a while thank goodness until I venture back to the UK for a visit.

I suppose this chap could get in touch with the Surugue brothers of Team Race fame maybe ?

They would know where to buy the ether and the additives.

Kind regards ,

Robin."
 
Looks like it's a visit to the UK then Robert
 
Just a thought - Southern Modelcraft are based in Tonbridge in Kent not a million miles from Folkestone or Dover if that's where you arrive.
 
Really sorry I can't help you more - best of luck with your endeavours though I hope you are eventually succesful.
 
Regards - Ramon
20/05/2010 15:54:35
Hi Robert
 
I have just had rather a nostalgic hour going through all the old control line correspondence but regretably to no avail. How his letters are not in the file I have no idea. However I have just emailed another control line modeller in France to see if he can help. I will keep you posted whatever the outcome.
 
Regards - Ramon
Thread: Anodising
19/05/2010 23:40:02
Hi again,
 
Well after a few more test pieces I finally bit the bullet and did what I set out to do and have to say am very pleased with the results.
 
I did the smaller 'DC Rapier' head first using the initial green dye from Terry's ebay link. As you can see the previous test piece gave a different hue. I think this was due to when transfering the dye into a glass jar I noticed there was quite a bit of sediment in the bottom of the bottle so gave it a real good shake. Typically the shade of the test piece is more the shade I was after however the finished item looks okay in situ on it's crankcase.
 
The cylinder off the Racer was done in 'Parker' green ink and has this lovely bluey green shade. However despite using the same current and very careful timing both in the ano bath and the dye the second cylinder came out a lighter shade. It was put back in the dye for a further 15 mins but no increase in colour occured. I'm surmising that this is due to the gradual depletion of the dye as each part is done. Though it did not occur to do so at the time, the amount of dye available was insufficient to do two parts at once but that is how I would do it the next time if I wanted to get two parts or more the same shade.
 
Whatever I have had an enjoyable time learning how to carry out this process and it has added another dimension to the making of small I/C motors and bodes well for the future. That OPS marine can now finally have a red head!
 
I would like to thank all who posted on this thread either in reply to my questions or to ensure I was armed with the right information. Your input has not only kept me motivated but ensured a safe and successful outcome. Thanks indeed.
 
Tomorrow then sees the final assembly of the Racers and hopefully a test run (or two!)
 
Regards - Ramon
 
Thread: Diesel fuel
19/05/2010 18:09:14
Robert,
 
When I was flying I used to correspond with someone in France- he was very keen on diesels. Can't guarantee anything but fairly certain his address is tucked away up the loft. If I can find it tomorrow - have to go out tonight - I will let you know by PM. He may be able to help.
 
Regards - Ramon
19/05/2010 15:19:46
Hi Robert,
 
It is difficult to get diesel fuel these days from what was the usual sources. I'm not sure if they still do but  Model Technics used to provide made up diesel fuel in three grades as well as ether and castor. If a local model shop stocks their glow fuel then they should be able to order you some.
 
The other more definite source is Southern Modelcraft - see the Rivers engine thread - but the problem with that is that it is only available at model shows. Give them a ring as they attend quite a few all over throughout the flying season, there may be something nearby. They have very good products and have very reasonable prices compared to most model shops.
 
Short of that and particularly the latter in attending specialist shows the availability of this gets ever more harder to source.
 
Hope that's not too much of a dis-illusionment.
 
Regards - Ramon
Thread: How to drill hardened and ground steel
18/05/2010 23:19:20
Hi again,
 
Without wanting to appear to be going over the same ground........
 
Terry's comment that Chronos state this to be hardened and ground sheds a little more light on this John.
If this block is through hardened then as said before this is going to be difficult if nigh on impossible to bore or drill out to the diameter you need given the kit you have at your disposal  - indeed that would not have been attempted on anything I have used over my working experience. Outside of erosion techniques it would either have to have been ground out or tempered first then machined and then re-hardened and re-ground given that it were dimensionally possible. I'm definitely not suggesting that that is an option just pointing out how a hardened component that had to be re-machined with limited kit would have been looked at. It would to put it politely certainly have caused some puttering! Nowadays its all to so easy with the advance of wire/edm erosion techniques where hardness of material is immaterial! I have to say that if you can find someone as Jeff suggests then despite Chris's reservations this would be the easiest way to increase this bore without stressing anything except perhaps your pocket a bit. The actual time for this to be wire cut for instance would be no more than a few minutes as it could be done at max speed without need for high dimensional accuracy or surface finish that these machines can give and even the fastest speed will leave a finish far better than would be required for the job in hand.
If on the other hand it is only case hardened then, providing you can get under the skin you should be able to machine this slowly as you describe.
 
I say this again only because what you are wanting to do would be challenging in a workshop environment (if its hardened that is) and it would be so easy to mess up your tooling or stress your equipment and/or spoil the component trying not something I would wish to see.
 
I understand your reservations John but personally I would agree with Terry and reiterate my original thought - examine carefully the possibilty of changing the stud - that is your easiest option providing of course you are able to remove the original one without damage. It is certainly worth another look and if you do the job carefully you certainly won't be bodging up your lathe - merely modifying it to suit your needs.
 
Terry, most of the turning I did at work over the years was on Triumph 2000's three of them had QC the fourth a 4W. All the QC's had a centralising spigot and whenever I did need to remove the body I would always think I must do this at home - but.... you know how it is. Perhaps one day
 
Regards - Ramon
 
 
17/05/2010 22:37:27
 
Hi John,
Now you have proved it's not hardened you should be able to bore this out. It will be a much easier - read controllable - operation to do this on the lathe rather than drill it - set this up either in the four jaw or on the face plate and bore this out at low revs. You will probably have much slower revs on your lathe.  As you can file it it is either toughish steel or possibly a 'bare spot ' on a case hardened surface - I would guess probably the former - but if the latter once you are 'under the skin' you should be okay. Either way you should be able to get through at slow speeds with lots of coolant. Your original attempt was way to fast on rpm for both the tool post material and the cutter material. If your resharpened drill will cut at this lower speed then an ordinary HSS boring bar should do like wise just keep it nice and sharp and keep the cuts small - 15 to 20 thou. If it is case hardened then it may dull where it breaks through the skin - assuming you are boring from the base - just check before the next cut and resharpen if neccesary or use a carbide tipped tool if you have one.
 
On the accuracy point I don't wish to be pedantic Terry but I don't think the accuracy of the hole is too important. That is ...
My QCTP is an original Myford Dickson one and has been in use on the S7since 1979 and on the ML7 before that. It has a through bore of .630 counterbored at the bottom to .780 for about 1/2" and has a stepped washer on top that locates in the .630 bore. That has a .580 hole in it - all floating around a 7/16 .437 stud! I have often thought that it should have had a 'proper' locating spigot and that I should make a thick disc that will fit the stud and that lower register but have never felt the need to do so because of movement during use. Sometimes its sloppiness has actually proved a bonus in being able to move the holder over in one direction or another when it's been needed to obtain just that extra bit of clearance on something but I agree thats not a good enough reason to have it the way it is . However it certainly has never proved anything other than 'it doesn't seem quite right'. On that basis I would think that  a 10 to 20 thou clearance on a 7/16 stud would be fine for this application.
 
I wish you luck in solving your problem John
 
Regards - Ramon
 
 
 
 
 
16/05/2010 23:33:11
John, What you would like to achieve is going to be difficult.
 
There are drills that will tackle hardened steel but these are normally used to drill 'from the solid' the principle being that sufficient localised heat is generated to 'soften' the immediate area and allow the drill to cut. You may have seen the 'Fhrei' drills demo'ed at exhibitions. Your problem will be that of just taking out the small amount of annular material. Solid Carbide drills will tackle tough materials but the drills are expensive and very easily damaged if not held securely. The slightest deflection will snap them very quickly.
 
The rpms you have available are fairly high for drilling even tough steel (as opposed to hard) for instance a 1/2" drill in gauge plate in it's soft state would need to turn at appx 320 rpm (40 ft/Min) and I expect your tool post block to be much tougher than that.
As Oliver suggests you may be able to bore this using a carbide tipped tool in the lathe providing the material is tough as opposed to having been hardened. A quick test for this is to run a fine file lightly across a corner - if it slips and slides across without making a mark then its hard but if you can feel even the slightest resistance to the file its probably just tough steel and should be machinable - just keep the speed and feed well down certainly begin at your bottom revs and work up. If the tool wears you have very little options left. There may be a jobbing workshop in your area with wire erosion capabilities and they could do this with ease though it would probably cost quite a bit but failing that theres what is probably your best option of all - if you can remove it could you not change the stud to 7/16 ?
 
Hope this helps you - Ramon
 
 

Edited By Ramon Wilson on 16/05/2010 23:35:43

Thread: Anodising
16/05/2010 23:05:35

Thanks Ian and Les for your continuing input.

I have had a little further success today which bears relation to your suggestions.
I began as said by changing the electrolyte. The 4 to1 that I had in store was not quite enough so had to add some of the 10 to 1 - at a rough calculation it worked out about 6 to 1 so I added a bit more neat acid and this new mix appears to have done the trick.
I also added the test meter in circuit and this was a big improvement in being able to monitor the current . I noticed this did not drop at all as the time increased though this did happen on that initial jury rig set up. I think that this is probably due to the better and constant contact of the Ti hanger strip as opposed to the ali ones used previously which were obviously anodising at the same rate and probably reducing the contact area.
 
The second test then was at 12 volts and a consistent 30 ma for a 50min duration. Using the ano dye as for the previous test the take up of colour began immediately though quite faint,  the result below (centre piece) was after 20 mins in 'hand hot' dye - a much better colour take up and nowhere near as drab as expected.
 
The third piece on the right was done exactly the same but was dipped into Parker green ink. The take up of colour was virtually instantaneous and the result you see was no more than five seconds exposure! I sealed this one in steam but notice this has caused very faint blotching however the parts look much better 'in the hand' than the pics allude to.
I must admit that despite the green actually being closer to a blue I was really surprised with the colour absorbtion of the ink. This was neat ink and I think perhaps too strong so will try diluting it and see if a longer soak provides a more deeper and uniform finish.
 
The big thing is that the process now appears to be working quite well and just needs tweaking. I shall do several more test pieces to be certain before any of the Racer parts but must admit with the bottom ends of them all assembled I'm itching to get the tops done and try them out - "ahh patience laddie"
 
Regards for now - Ramon
15/05/2010 13:37:21
Thanks Ian,
 
Yes from what I have read too that and an increase in di-electric strength is what is probably required. I shall do one step at a time - acid strength first then increase the amperage.
 
Electrics are not my strong point I'm afraid - I do know how to wire a plug - that kind but I think I'm learning
 
I noticed however that to increase the current that the volts needed to increase - the ammeter on the unit not registering such a small amount. There are varying recommendations from 3 to 6 amps a square foot - the part shown worked out to 27 milliamps though it was not possible to check the actual current on this one.
 
It's a garden day today but I hope to get back on to it tomorrow - thanks again
 
Regards - Ramon
 

Edited By Ramon Wilson on 15/05/2010 13:40:34

14/05/2010 23:09:32
Hi again,
 
Had another go today with the new set up but still using the original acid in the ano tank. This time the tank is placed in a larger one filled with water which is heated with an aquarium heater (24 C). The ano tank has an 'agitator' made from an ali tube drilled with smallholes and fed by a small aquarium air pump and the test piece was suspended on a piece of titanium strip. A milli-ampmeter really needs to be in circuit as the amp meter on the unit is too 'coarse' to get a reading on - back to the test meter then though if the parts get larger or the part count goes up then the current will need to increase relative to the surface area
 
A 50 min dose at 15 volts followed by a lengthy soak in the dye (I confess I forgot about it for an hour or more) - correct anodising dye that is, from the ebay link you posted Terry - saw this result.
 
Not anything to write home about I agree and nowhere near as good as hoped for but you have to agree it is green   At this stage it has not been sealed in a steam bath and is much shinier than the pic suggests but importantly, no, it doesn't rub off  
 
The dye is a very drab green. This is from the correct dilution though I did keep a small amount at twice the strength but it's not really the shade wanted. However it is helping to show that the system is working. The more 'correct' (and more expensive) green can be got later.  I intend to change the acid out for 4 to 1 for the next attempt and see if that improves matters.
 
Assembly of the 'Racers' is now awaiting a successful outcome of this - I'll keep you posted.
 
Regards - Ramon 
 

Edited By Ramon Wilson on 14/05/2010 23:11:07

Thread: Photo upload test
11/05/2010 18:26:28
Hi Terry,
 
I can only repeat what someone helped me with when I was faced with the same problem.
 
My pics are in Picasa (up loaded to web albums)
 
Open the pic and right click on it.
 
Menu comes up - click on properties
 
Another smaller menu comes up with URL right click and select Select All. URL should be highlighted.
 
Right click again and select copy.
 
Close and paste into insert image box and select insert
 
There may be an easier way but that's how I get it done
 
Hope this helps - BTW Rivers?
 
regards - Ramon
Thread: Stuart 10H and Score
07/05/2010 19:39:01
Hi David,
 
Glad to be of help. Personally I have never felt the need to laquer the unpainted parts especially the steel as they will remain as they are if lightly oiled as you say, however the 'brass' parts will slowly darken if not kept pristine - reluctant to use the word polish as that's not what I mean. Just  had a look at my last engine - this has sat unrun (indoors)for five or six years now but the brass is still 'yellow' and untarnished. If you don't intend to run it but display it statically then perhaps you would need to laquer the brass parts. Rustins used to do a really good laquer though whether it is still available I'm not sure.
 
BTW if you decide to use Humbrol after the initial coats of primer it would pay to use their matt enamel to build up the 'body' before the couple of top coats - that way there is less rubbing down between coats to give the next layer to a surface on which to  'take'. If you want to use the matt enamel as a 'filler' you can add a small amount of talcum powder to thicken it slightly. That's not  contradiction of previous 'thinning' - adding this gives the paint more body for a slightly quicker build up in the pores of the cast surface.
 
I checked at my local car accessory shop today - apparently they can no longer get grey primer other than in aerosols. Halfords do a good high build version like this I believe though I have not used it. If whatever the primer you use is cellulose based then when you are stisfied it is ready for finish painting let it dry out well to de-gas before putting on any enamel coats.
 
Hope this helps a bit more
Regards  - Ramon
06/05/2010 23:26:42
Hullo David,
In response to your request for help in painting I think I may be able to offer a bit of help on that front.
 
All the old adages on painting hold true except that oft heard phrase 'A coat of paint covers a multitude of sins'. Quite simply it doesn't but on the other hand it doesn't take much effort and certainly less than you have put in so far with this very nice job of building this10H to achieve a reasonable finish. It is always a shame to see a nicely made model let down by a poorly applied paint job. 
 
Achieving a good result depends on several factors but number one has to be good surface preparation followed by good compatible products and means to apply them.
 
You have the choice of two methods - by brush or by spray - either aerosol or proper spraygun. 'Generally' - By brush it is better to use enamels or acrylics and apply cellulose products by spraying though these are getting more difficult to obtain in small quantities. Personally, though I have the means of both, I would unhesitatingly use a brush finish for what you intend at this time.
 
The castings should be carefully degreased - acetone or cellulose thinner - spray gun cleaner available at car accessory shops is ideal. Then take the time to mask up those areas you wish to leave unpainted. I lay masking tape down on a piece of perspex and cut it to the widths I need with a scalpel and straight edge. I used to think of masking as a pain - a time barrier between 'now' and applying the paint. The time for the application of the paint is usually much less than that required for masking so I look at it from the opposite direction now - the masking is much the more important bit of the process.
 
Once masked up the pores of the casting need to be filled. Ideally - if it's still available use brush applied car cellulose grey primer. This is the only cellulose product you really want to apply with a brush. Brush on several thin coats - don't be tempted to put it on thickly - if you do it will appear dry but will still be soft - when the next layer goes on you will drag it off. After about three coats give it a light rub over with wet and dry paper - about 320 grit and repeat it. Finish the final layer or two with 600 used wet. Your final colour finish (two to three coats maximum) will be dictated by these layers. By keeping it thin it can be applied quickly trying not to brush it out and going over the same area twice as this can/will cause dragging. Buy yourself a couple of nice brushes at an art shop. They don't have to be expensive sable but buy good quality. I use 3/8" wide flat synthetic bristle brushes (normally sold for water colour or acrylic application) one for primer the other for the colour.
 
Enamel paint should be thinned slightly, standing the tin on a radiator to warm the paint or in a dish of fairly hot water - this will help the paint flow better. Do not try to get a perfectly even, opaque coverage on the first coat but concentrate more on a thin layer of uniform thickness . Let it dry well - preferably overnight - then cut it back gently with wet and dry 600 grit used wet sufficient for the second coat to adhere to. You should have a very nice smooth finish by the third coat at the most depending on the make of paint and colour chosen. Let it harden for at least week or so before trying to buff a finish into it with silver polish /brasso/T-Cut etc.
 
Enamel paint will go successfully over cellulose but not the other way. Acrylic paint will also go over cellulose but may, possibly, exhibit a cracked finish in a short time. This is normally due to the paint below 'moving' which cellulose does over time. Acrylic is very hard and subsequently cracks. I have not used this combination on metal surfaces but have, to my cost, on a model aircraft, the whole lot having to be stripped off within a week of painting it. If you do decide to use acrylic then I would definitely use an acrylic base on the casting.
 
Paints - nothing wrong with good old Humbrol, though I prefer 'Japlac'. International paints are very good too though I don't think they are available in the small 250ml tins anymore. And of course many others including the Phoenix paints though I have never used them. I would add to always use the recommended thinner. No doubt you can use 'white spirit' on some but if it goes wrong it's too late.
 
I hope the above gives you a start - no doubt others will add to this but any questions just ask
 
Best advice is just take your time, don't be in a hurry to apply the colour but get the sub-surface right first.
 
Regards - Ramon
 

Edited By Ramon Wilson on 06/05/2010 23:29:30

Thread: Anodising
05/05/2010 23:03:15
Hi Terry thanks for these links. Had seen them before - have looked at so many on the subject and on dyes but have forgot to bookmark most () so this was a timely reminder.
 
The power unit from Maplins has arrived and I have ordered some dye from the link above to see if that improves matters. If that doesn't work then I will try some of the Carswells stuff and if that doesn't work then It's going to remain 'au naturel' !!!.
At this rate it would have been cheaper to visit the guy up the road but then I suppose all I would have is two or three green bits to show for the outlay.
 
Managed to get my little old Burgess band saw to wend its way through this piece of Ti sheet tonight. Lain under the bench untouched for years it's about 2mm thick and isn't it bloody tough!
 
Hansrudolph- I have checked out HE30 - it appears this is a discontinued spec and it is now listed as '6082'. The anodising properties are given as good. I was aware that not all alloys will take hence test pieces cut off the stock the parts were made from but thank you for your thoughts on this.
 
It's a 'holiday' week this week so time is a bit limited - I keep sneaking in the workshop but not for long
 
Regards for now - Ramon
 
 
04/05/2010 20:13:36
 
Thanks for this Dave.
 
I have printed off your info and have read it through several times. I have several other articles some quite old but yours is much the best description so far.
 
Though I'm fairly happy with the 'cleanliness' of the electrolyte - I'm confident it is unadulterated, though it is not mixed with distilled water - it's obviously too weak - possibly 10 to 1 so this will be improved.
 
Temperature, well that was well down on your recommendation I guess - really cold outside and as you see this was carried out by the door with a fan blowing the fumes away. Would an aquarium heater be of use?
 
The PSU  I have ordered has a current control facility up to 2.5A so given that I only intend to do relatively small parts I'm hoping this will be adequate.
 
I have a small piece of Ti sheet so will try to get a few strips out of it and make up some ally screws
 
The dyes? well as you say all I have read points to hit and miss using clothing dye. As I would like to make a good job of this I shall definitely get the right thing before the next attempt. I certainly won't have another go until I feel I have all the parameters in the right order!
 
A few questions-
 
What is in the 'de-smut' bath? and does this need to be at  higher temperature than room temp?
I see you recommend washing/rinsing in DI water though other articles recommend washing under running water - presumably that's tap water. Is that likely to have a negative effect? The black container in the pic was filled with rain water the parts well swirled around in it to wash - again is that likely to spoil matters?
 
Finally would aeration from a small aquarium pump be suitable for agitating the acid?
 
Many thanks again and for those possibly expecting something a bit more positive in the results don't go far - "I'll be back"
 
Regards - Ramon
Thread: ED Racer 'times two'
04/05/2010 12:35:07
Thanks Frank, understood.
 
I have just posted the first results under 'Anodising' as I thought it would be better there and leave the machining side here. Not that good so far I'm afraid but I will persevere. In the meantime it's back on the engine and get those rotors machined.
 
Regards for now - Ramon
Thread: Anodising
04/05/2010 12:30:36
 
 
If anyone has any further thoughts to help overcome this problem then I'd be pleased to hear from them.
 
Hope this of interest - it's certainly taken my mind off machining for a while!
Regards for now - Ramon
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