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Member postings for Ramon Wilson

Here is a list of all the postings Ramon Wilson has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Castings problem remedial advice, please
20/02/2011 12:22:47
Okay Bill,
Good luck - if you need anything else just say or you can always send me a PM.
Look forward to seeing your results in due course
Regards - Ramon
19/02/2011 21:39:07


Posted by Cornish Jack on 19/02/2011 19:27:38:
PS Ramon - unfortunately the top of the standards hasn't been turned on its circumference, only across the width

Thats Good News Bill because now you have a 'way in'

Make up a short expanding mandrel that will go into the bore (about a third of the way due to the taper) from the top end - make it for the largest bore so it can be skimmed to suit the smaller.(It will have to be returned to the 3 Jaw to do that) Any material will do but I normally use steel. This pic should be self explantory the mandrel is expanded with a caphead screw turned to 60 degree to match the centre. The grip exerted by these is considerable - far more than ever needed for the cutting forces involved.
Something like this will do.

Set this mandrel in the four jaw and get the standard to run reasonably true on the outside as described before with the top nearest the chuck but with sufficient space between to allow a facing cut to true up the top face. Turn the OD of the top at the same time but if you are going to have to build up the top after don't turn it to finished diameter but  rather leave it .5mm up for a final finishing cut after reclaiming. You now have a good datum face from which to carry out the remaining ops. If you only make this mandrel short due to the taper in the bore I would not be tempted to face those feet at this op but wait until you have the correct bore re- established.
Expanding mandrels such as these are an absolute boon IMO as once a bore is done they can be utilised to do so much of the external work relative to that bore
Reclaiming mistakes such as you are faced with certainly involes quite a bit of 'going round the houses' before getting back to square one but it's very satisfying to achieve. Hope you are successful in this endeavour as it's a worthy project. Anything else please shout
Regards - Ramon
PS Thanks Jason not only for the comment but for introducing me to MEB

Edited By Ramon Wilson on 19/02/2011 21:42:29

Edited By Ramon Wilson on 19/02/2011 21:44:00

19/02/2011 18:03:38
Re your last post...
I notice you give the top surface of No 1 as tapered across its thickness - 5.3 to 5.6.
Can you tell if this machined face is square to the existing bore ? - given what youv'e described so far I doubt it but if not then this will be the first thing to address. You don't say if No 2 has the same discrepancy - Ideally this face needs to be square to the OD of the standard to begin remachining.
As I see it at this stage, its stilll possible to get a datum but this needs to be checked out first.
19/02/2011 17:47:38
Hi Bill,
Like so many things the first problem is not the only one
However, having read your post and the replies heres another view.
What do you have as a reference - possibly (hopefully) the turned portion at the top of the standards. Lets take that first and ignore the rest for the time being. Providing that is reasonably true then hold this area in an easily turned bell collet held in the four jaw and set the standard to run reasonably true to the outer diameter of the trunkguide.
You should now be able to true the inner to the outside - obviously an unequal cut to begin with so take it easy. Open the bore until it cleans up and run the tool through several times to ensure the least amount of taper. Don't worry about the size at this stage - repeat for the other standard. Now turn up some 'brass' to fit the bores and drill out nearly to finished bore dimension say within a millimeter. Then fit the tube to the bore with whatever you are comfortable with - personally I would still use Loctite but I hear what others are saying and can see the alternatives. For me Loctite cuts out the need to heat anything but "yer pays yer money" etc.
You now have a standard with a bore that is reasonably true to the outer surfaces. This can be used to reclaim the top surfaces if required but if they are okay then holding in the collet or this time better still if you have soft jaws hold by the tops again and bore the inner to finish size. You could of course bore this inner dimension to size when turning it as a tube but this way it is in situ. Once you have reached this stage then all else follows - set the standards on an expanding mandrel - again something easily made - and true the feet to the bore (thickness not important) and also the tops. Pads can now be soldered onto the feet and indeed the top if neccessary and remachined to print.
If you have not made a bell collet or expanding mandrel before just say and I'll describe it . The one thing is your parts are not beyond reclamation - yet
Hope this helps - Ramon

Edited By Ramon Wilson on 19/02/2011 17:49:19

Thread: Seagull engine
19/02/2011 11:03:34

Hi Graham,
I have just viewed your set of pics of your build of this engine and would like to say what a lovely piece of workmanship.
A few questions that I'm sure I won't be alone in wanting to know the answers
so hopefully you mind telling us a bit more about it.
For a start then .....
How many engines have come before.
How did you find the drawings for accuracy.
Are there any pitfalls in the machining sequences.
And of course, the inevitable - How long before it runs.
Thanks for sharing this with us. I for one look forward to hearing more about it.
Kind Regards - Ramon
Thread: Touching down tool to work when turning
15/02/2011 23:36:53
You know guy's I'm surprised that no one has mentioned using a magnifying glass.
If you are in doubt about bringing the tool too close set it as said with a ciggy paper - you're within a thou or so at that point then hold an eye glass (loupe) close to the tool point - it will give you quite an advantage. Lot's of light too - helps no end
Regards - Ramon
Thread: IC cylinder head gasket material & suppliers
14/02/2011 09:38:45
Yes, 'can' material is nowhere as good as nice flat virgin sheet which is why litho plate is better but it will do and the curvature is not really a major problem. Litho plate comes in various thicknesses too whereas the can stuff is pretty consisistent. Thickness is not critical but the thinner obviously the better. I have just meaured the few spares I have and they run between .007 and .012 (inches).
The can material needs to be rolled using a smooth piece of steel on a blemish free flat surface - true flatness is not essential but this will take out the stressed in curve.
Though I have not tried it I guess the Olfa circular cutter would soon cut through it but I would still prefer to clamp a few blanks and bore out which is how I have dealt with this material to date.
Another possibilty that has just occured (though not tried) is to use a scalpel with a floating or rotating blade. If this was run around the inside of a plate with a hole cut in it - the hole taking into account the diameter of the blade holder this would probably be better. Many years ago I had to cut several thousand 'Fablon' green baize discs without cutting the backing paper. I made a cutter up with a rotating blade and this worked perfectly. I sold that on but do have a commercial item and the next time I make some gaskets which is not that far off I shall investigate to see if this is viable in ali.
This is the knife I have currently - I believe this one is an Excel but there are various makes available. The cutter guide (plate) would need to be thick enough for the tapered part to bear against - might be better to turn this area parallel. Incidentally The backing is some very nice brown paper kept specifically for gasket material

Hope this sheds a bit more light for someone
Regards - Ramon
13/02/2011 18:42:09
As said , not sure what type of IC engine you need gaskets for but further to AES's reply most IC aero engines today have aluminium gaskets. A good source of supply for these is the humble coke can or some litho plate from a friendly printers.
As said the object is to get the hole done first and this is always the awkward bit in ali but if you can clamp a few layers between some ally sheet and bore it this works well. Once the hole is done it's a simple matter of holding the blanks on a mandrel (clamped up tight) for turning the ODs to diameter. The can material is a bit claggy but is workable. Litho plate needs annealing before use to soften it. Waving it through a soft flame is sufficient.
Paper gaskets - I use either good quality brown paper or 100gm computer printing paper. Again get the hole done first and here I can recommend using an Olfa circle cutter. Cut the outside contour around the shape of part - backplate, front housing using a scalpel and mark off the hole positions.
I have made a tool from silver steel  sharpened as per AES's brass tube and run this in the drill cutting through the paper into one of those green cutting mats - produces perfect holes. I then soak the paper gaskets in a light oil before fitting.
Hope this helps - Ramon

Edited By Ramon Wilson on 13/02/2011 18:43:00

Thread: Castings problem remedial advice, please
11/02/2011 22:28:56
Hi Bill,
I certainly wouldn't try to work around the error. That will mean compensating for it on all other parts and inevitably lead to complications further down the line.
Sleeving the bore by 'gluing' in an insert using an epoxy based product or the relevant Loctite and then remachining to bring it back to print is an acceptable alternative. You could also soft solder it in though personally I would prefer the adhesive method.
I'm not familiar with the 'Tiny Power Twin' but assume these castings are 'bronze' as you mention using brass. Any hint of a join line in the side openings can possibly be disguised by painting.
New standards should definitely be the last resort
Hope this helps - Ramon
Thread: Aircraft General Discussion
04/02/2011 23:49:28
Thanks AES for pointing the way to this excellent piece of film. The short piece toward the end with the veteran in the cockpit should put it all in perspective for us oldies whatever we've been involved with in our early years. Though it would have been nice to have had a bit longer on the flying scenes none the less a very enjoyable short video.
The Bearcat held an attraction in the late sixties when model wise the control line 'carrier event' was introduced at an early Old Warden 'Scale' day.

I built this model for the event whilst working on an oil rig around 1968. The rig toolpusher got to hear about it and came to have a look - turned out he had been a pilot after the war and had flown Bearcats, P51 Mustangs and P38 Lightnings as well. I never attended the event as was on the rig on the day but it was just as well as the model was rather tail heavy and proved extremely difficult to control on the first flight but a substantial piece of lead cured that. The event called for lots of power - originally the airframe was designed for a 1.5cc motor - about 24" span I think but that was an OS40 R/C motor crammed in there
By todays standards it looks very dated but I remember making all the transfers for it using gummed paper and varnish which, at the time, I felt quite proud of - all drawn by hand, no computers to help then eh? It had throttle control and the hook could be dropped to catch hold of arrester wires but I never did get the chance to try that out. The photograph shows its age - it was taken from a slide - remember them?
Sorry about the nostalgia - can't help it I'm afraid - I'm a lost cause
Regards - Ramon

Edited By Ramon Wilson on 04/02/2011 23:50:50

Thread: Keeping the Lathe bed clean
02/02/2011 23:10:55
'Great minds' Alan,
I have the magnet but use kitchen roll especially when turning brass and C.I.
Hows the ST?
Regards Ramon
Thread: Delapena Hone
02/02/2011 23:06:51
I was lucky enough recently to pick up a bench mounted Delapena honing machine.
Does anyone have or know of where I can obtain a user manual?
Also if anyone has any surplus tooling they wish to part with I'd be pleased to hear from them
A long shot I know but worth an 'ask'
Thanks - Ramon
Thread: Tip build-up
01/02/2011 14:15:22
And there I was thinking that was a Suffolk term!
It's good to see the 'forum' living up to it's usual justfication Peter, what would we do without it.
Keep on machining - it's a great hobby.
31/01/2011 17:36:35
Hullo Peter
I don't think the problem lies with your tool so much - though I do agree it could have a bit more side and back rake but with the tube material itself. Is it welded or drawn?
Are you getting any chatter or ringing as a matter of interest - that won't help the finish either.
Most 'tube' is notoriously 'awkward' to machine - it tends to be rather ductile and very 'claggy' (local term) to machine - a bit similar to machining sheet steel. I'd say that's the cause of the build up.
If that is the case then theres not a lot of options, you could spend a lot of time trying to achieve a finish on it even with all the suggestions - personally I would bite the bullet and use some better material.
Sorry to be so negative but never found a real solution to this problem other than has already been suggested - messing around with rakes, speeds and feeds and cutting fluids. Quite time consuming and not always successful.
Regards - Ramon
Thread: Boring deep holes
30/01/2011 16:20:28
Hi Pailo
I would agree with John but bearing in mind the following proviso - boring over that length may - 'may' - produce a slightly tapered bore regardless of how many cuts at the same setting are taken. Whilst reaming will ensure the size it won't necessarily give a good finish (if that's an important requirement) especially as it's a long hole to get coolant/cutting fluid down the flutes and it will not of course give a square corner if that is required.
Make the bar as large as you can for the finishing cuts - that is go for maximum rigidity Sharpen the bit for that last .25mm on diameter and keep it lubricated to prevent build up on the tool tip. You may need to use a thinner bar to face across the bottom after the bore is sized.
Hope that helps a bit more - Ramon
Thread: Radio control
29/01/2011 15:01:12
Michael, Just found this -
it doesnt explain how it's done but I'm sure this is the kind of aircraft you mean. Power source appears to be either a C02 motor or electric. A little 'fast' but it does exhibit extremely responsive control though. Shame you can't understand what they are saying though but the images say it all anyway
Regards - Ramon
29/01/2011 14:15:11
Hi Michael,
The ultra light model aircraft refered to at one gram are not in any way radio controlled. The class is an international class designated F1D and one of the rules is that airframes should weigh no less than 1 gram. It appears that that is now 1.2 grams (It may have been when I was involved but memory had it as 1)
As this was and still is a contest class those who participate try to build the lightest airframes possible and try to 'build down to' that minimum weight.
As an example the drawing of the model entered by the UK's Laurie Barr in the '86 champs had weights given as follows - Wing .34g, Prop .20g, [the] Rest .51g
total 1.05 gms (just taken this from a book of plans - looks like it was 1 gram at that time then)
Where radio control of this type of very lightweight aircraft has been attempted I believe this began by using an infra red system and using 'muscle wire' as an actuator to control a moveable surface. I think 'muscle wire' was similar to bi-metallic strip but instead of bending contracted as a current was applied - perhaps someone else can enlighten us on this
Of course since then the development of extremely lightweight radio control systems have leapt forward - only at Ally Pally last week I watched as one of the store holders hovered a small helicopter (which was smaller than the palm of your hand) above his fellow stall holders head totally in control. To imagine that, and not that long ago either, and what is almost taken for granted today was, difficult to perceive.
Hope this helps - Ramon

Edited By Ramon Wilson on 29/01/2011 14:16:24

Thread: Aircraft General Discussion
27/01/2011 13:17:00
Bill(CJ), that would be Reg (Parham) I guess, a veritable guru in the art of indoor flying.
When Lowestoft 'indoor' first started we had two very experienced fliers attend the first few meetings - Geoff LeFevre and Ron Green. They both had these incredible F1D models but the risk of flying them with all the other sport models in the air was too great and regretably they ceased to attend. Their models were fitted with variable pitch props actuated by the torsion of the motor and though extremely fragile were beautifully built. I have always had a fascination of it and have made tentative inroads in the past - made a load of microfilm once and stored it for several years but never used it. Up the loft somewhere are some rolled balsa fuselage sticks too along with all the other paraphenalia - Oh so many ideas just not enough years.
Thanks for the jog though - I've just spent far too long viewing various sites - just google F1D - you'll see what I mean
regards - Ramon
Thread: Electric Motor Noise
18/01/2011 21:34:03
Peter, Could you check your messages please. PM sent relevant to above post but not to solution
Would like to contact you before Friday.
Regards - Ramon
Thread: Stuart No 4 Steam Passages
16/01/2011 19:23:25
Yes I should have warned you about that Alan, the rapid version has nowhere near the temperature tolerance - the standard type is definitely what's required.
John, by fitting a plate like this when this sort of situation arises the ports, as well as their position on the port face and the slide valve can be made exactly to print without compromise .  The product certainly stands up to 'dry steam' though what degree of superheated steam it would tolerate remains to be ascertained.
Perhaps I should add this Alan  - once its in you'll have to mill it should you want to get it out again

Edited By Ramon Wilson on 16/01/2011 19:25:48

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