Here is a list of all the postings Ramon Wilson has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Making a series of small aluminium cones|
Edit: __ I’ve just found this: **LINK**
which gives a little more description.
Edited By Michael Gilligan on 26/01/2022 20:33:37
Interesting links - thanks. Couldn't help but notice this in the second one-
With the addition of CNC, Swiss machine tooling areas began to include turrets, gang slides, and secondary spindles, improving speed and accuracy. When parts are rotating at a speed of up to 15,000 RPM with live tooling up to 10,000 RPM and tolerances anywhere between ±0.0002” (±0.00508 mm) and ±0.0005” (±0.0127 mm), Swiss machines have the ability to support high volume requirements with just a single skilled machinist.
A far cry from a Myford for sure!
Ha, I'm a sucker for that aftermarket stuff Doc, especially the resin !!
Master don't do the aerial as a separate item - it's in with the chain gun parts
Without checking it I would say the thinner part is no more than .3mm and yes it's turned along it's full length. As you say some remarkable items at very reasonable prices considering what it would entail to do like wise even if able to!
Edited By Ramon Wilson on 26/01/2022 21:55:14
Yep they do Michael but did you not notice anything - Not a Myford in sight
'How- ever' did they make batch parts before CNC
A matter of dead stops and gauges Doc - as many ops on one set up as possible, and extremely high tolerance fixtures for secondary ops.
Many items made now would not have been possible on conventional machining. A good example are the 'Master' aircraft probes etc for plastic models that you must be familiar with. Search out the aerial for the 1/48 Apache helicopter for a fine specimen.
It's all too easy to forget that CNC as we know it today was a very rare commodity not that long ago.
All fascinating stuff though
|Thread: Workbench top|
Well, despite some reservations above about its use my lathe has been mounted on a cheap range 38mm kitchen worktop purchased on offer at B&Q. Granted it is on top of a 2" box section MS support but its as good as the day it was set up - circa 1987.
Can't complain, it's done me proud so far
|Thread: Making a series of small aluminium cones|
Using stock larger than 1.8mm dia preferably in a collet
Keep the centring drill as deep in the chuck as possible and spot very gently at high speed
Drill the 0.25mm to depth - again with minimum drill projection from the chuck
Turn taper at 25degrees incl.
Turn od down to 1.8 mm
Part off to length - touch parting tool on tip of cone - move topslide required amount plus thickness of parting tool.
The final diameter will define angle length
Given the small diameter, the fastest top speed on an ML7 and the softness of aluminium, a razor sharp HSS tool bit would be much the better option - well it would for me
Good to see you back on the tools Doc
Edited By Ramon Wilson on 26/01/2022 16:06:44
|Thread: Parts storage|
There are lots of good rust inhibitors out there but I use plain old paraffin with oil in (about 90:10) to wipe over the parts. I do have a fairly temperature stable workshop so rust isn't a problem but for long term storage I keep parts coated as such in card boxes with VPI paper wrapping.
Recently packed all the Bentley BR2 parts for sale which had been stored thus and hadn't seen light of day for quite a long time - two/three years possibly more. Just as they were put away with no rust anywhere.
Dampness in any form is the real issue to resolve to preventing rusting IMO
|Thread: Casting or Moulding Rubber|
I haven't used it in such a manner so this is just a suggestion but there are many silicone moulding rubbers available in varying degrees of flexibility that would probably give you what you want. Pigments are also available to colour it - to the degree you want - without affecting its properties.
An eBay search would probably help but the name Alec Taranti as a supplier springs to mind.
It's been a long time since using it for mould making but it will certainly flow and set to minimal thickness for what you describe
Hope that's of help
|Thread: Can you recommend a "medium-speed" epoxy adhesive? (e.g. "30 minute" or "60 minute")|
I have tried three times to answer your specific questions on the best epoxy and their qualities. I have no bloody interest in your VAT issues
No I'm not being uncivilised but I am being straight - it's the last help you get from this direction
Over many years I have mainly used epoxy in aeromodelling and making sailing models - occasionally but quite rarely in model engineering where I prefer JB Weld.
At one time there was an extremely good epoxy made by Isopon called SuperEpoxy. 20min or so set time and extremely strong but slightly flexible. I used this successfully without a single failure over several years but virtually overnight it became unavailable so I switched to other brands finally settling on Zap as it's near but not quite equal (in my eyes) to it. Apart from true standard Araldite most epoxies from cheap to expensive proved either brittle or rubbery.
If I could buy true Isopon Super epoxy again it would be a no brainer but in the meantime Zap for me is acceptable - until I've tried the Bob Smith Industries version that is.
I'm afraid I have no experience on VAT so cannot comment on that matter
Yes - Zap 30 min has around 25-30 mins work time depending on the ambient temperature. It my workshop - usually around 65C it will begin to gel after about 20mins. Once that begins there is little time left to work with.
I find a good hour has to pass before handling it with safety but that of course depends on what the workpiece actually is.
John (Smith) I was not aware Bob Smith Industries glues were available in the UK. Their CA glues are well recommended in USA so would 'assume' (not always a good idea!) that their epoxy would be of a similar quality.
I'll certainly be ordering some epoxy and CA to try out and compare with the Zap
I usually search eBay mainly to see the variation in price of items - amazing sometimes the considerable differences in cost of some products - never had an issue with archived purchases either but each to his own
Thanks for that link
I have used Zap epoxies for several years now. About the best available at the moment in reasonable small volumes but there are others.
An eBay search should get you a rapid supplier - I bought my last from 'Als Hobbies.
5, 15 and 30 min all available in 2oz and 4oz sizes
|Thread: After Sales Service|
Whilst I don't want to go into specific details I would just like to comment on the superb after sales service I have just received from Warco.
A total appreciation of the situation on their part and a very speedy response - can't thank them enough.
Should go without saying but no, no connection, just a truly satisfied and very happy customer
Edited By Ramon Wilson on 13/01/2022 18:34:46
|Thread: 1/16” scale model tramcars|
John, I have no idea but a little tale, perhaps of interest.
Martin Shaw, his son worked in our drawing office but his interest was model railways. When his father passed he inherited a couple of his models - a lovely Allchin and a Merryweather steam fire engine. Martin would loan them out for exhibit at our ME Day at the Forncett museum so they graced my workshop on several occasions
Many years ago a local ME friend said he would like to introduce me to a 'Frank Waterton' who was very keen on I/C engines - I was well into making a Bentley BR2 at that time and Frank had expressed a desire to see the parts.
A visit was arranged and we set off to Woodbridge in Suffolk. From his accent Frank was obviously from 'Northern' parts. At an early stage in the conversation he said to my friend "I really miss my friend Ernie" and began to tell of their ME exploits. By the look on his face he was not too pleased when I asked if he meant an Ernie Shaw. When I explained that I worked with his son his demeanour changed instantly and he got quite excited calling his wife in to explain. Apparently they had lost touch after Ernie had passed.
Frank then asked did I know about the trams that Ernie had made - a very detailed account followed my shake of the head. Apparently, I believe before the war, the subject of making individual motors to power a trams wheels had been raised in ME. Ernie claimed that he felt it could and (I'm sure I have this right) none other than Edgar Westbury said that he didn't think it could. Some correspondence reverberated through the pages of ME I was told and Ernie not only made the motors but they did indeed work.
Obviously when I returned to work the following week I sought Martin out and explained all this. "How come you didn't take an interest in model engineering yourself" I asked - " I always felt my father was too good to follow in his footsteps so I focussed on model railways" was the reply.
The next day Martin came into the machine shop bearing something wrapped in rag. "Would you like these" he said "They belonged to my father". It was indeed the very winding tool he had made for the project. Simple, one could almost say rustic, in approach but the perfection of machining is obvious. I've treasured it ever since but would happily hand it on to someone who had direct interest in it - as said it is a little piece of ME history and may mean something to others. The other item was a boring head to fit the Myford nose piece - again basic to look at but works to perfection
Some years later Martin, who also had a passion for trams decided to have a go himself Here he is asking me about something on a drawing at a Forncett open day.
Sometime after he retired Martin moved to Blackpool where we continued our correspondence over many years before two years back it suddenly stopped. Well into his eighties by then I can only assume the worst.
I hope that's been of interest - one of a couple of anecdotal tales coined over my years with model making.
Regards - Tug
Edited By Ramon Wilson on 12/01/2022 19:28:33
|Thread: Cosworth V8 1:12 scale|
Superb workmanship and excellent documentation - thanks for sharing it
|Thread: 1/16” scale model tramcars|
Very nice model making and fine workmanship all round John - trams certainly make lovely subjects with variety of skills required
Are you familiar with the name 'Ernie Shaw' a Manchester area model engineer ?
He apparently built a model tram with working home made individual electric motors after being challenged (in Model Engineer though I have no idea when) by a well known and prominent model engineer of the time that it couldn't be done.
I was given, by his son Martin whom I worked with, the coil winder he made to wind the armatures I believe - I would be more than happy to pass it on to you should you want a little bit of model tram history.
PM me if you would like it
|Thread: Engineering as Art|
I haven't seen the article in question but as someone who has provided drawings in the past to ME for articles I'd like to offer my thoughts.
I certainly don't think you are being pedantic but on the other hand I feel you may not be giving matters due consideration. Yes there has been some appalling drawing standards for model engineer drawings over the years some of which have been offered by those who you would expect to know better but many by those who have no background in the art of technical drawing but are eager to share their project with others.
I have no formal training in drawing as such and know my own drawings will some time show both projections and, despite a dedicated mind to ensuring there are no omissions and mistakes, both occur and are always noticed after publication.
I have worked with many styles of drawing both at work and at home but the drawings that show many parts on one sheet are how it was done off a drawing board - easy to forget that with todays CAD and the much better way of a sheet per part if preferred. As long as the information is clear and defined (and correct!) how it is displayed should be irrelevant.
If I have a criticism it is that of differing datums on a drawing - something frequently done on ME drawings and very frustrating for the newcomer who is unaware until something doesn't line up after working to them. Anthony Mount's McOnie design has a classic example of this but I'm not knocking AM - his Waller engine drawings are just the opposite and were a pleasure to work to.
This subject is another that comes up from time to time - the issue is without question, many drawings do have many faults but to expect professional quality from mainly amateur offerings is a point to be taken well into consideration.
Long gone are the days of the editorial office too and in this day of minimal staffing levels it is unlikely there is anyone capable or available to check and modify or indeed rectify mistakes to perfection level - desirable as that may be.
Standards are without doubt not the same - I am currently working to drawings first published in Model Engineer mag in 1923. Beautifully annotated in fractions I have found just one error in the drawings published over several issues.
It does, I'm afraid, comedown to that old cliche, measure twice and cut once - double check everything
Regards - Tug
Edited By Ramon Wilson on 09/01/2022 14:11:24
|Thread: Unusual Small Engine?|
Looks like (not is) a Sparey 5cc - I'd say the brass serves no purpose unless its a jury rigged compression screw?
|Thread: Items which gave most satisfaction to make|
Most finished projects but finally making this after setting out to do so some twenty seven years earlier was very satisfying
|Thread: Lock nuts / Jam nuts - MEW 311|
Yep, like I said t'is a ripe ol' chestnut.
As said Nigel, I have text books which explain this in detail but seven differing books on stationary steam engines with many many images don't support that it was a practice that was consistently used - little visual evidence of the 'correct' practice in any of the images in these volumes all by George Watkins
Stationary Steam Engines of GB Vol 1, 2 and 3
The Textile Mill Engine Vol 1 and 2
The Steam Engine in Industry Vol 1 and 2
As also said, for me the technical aspects are one thing, the model making aspects are another - BA bolts, nuts, even with the smaller head are not usually of true scale appearance compared to those in these images for instance.
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.