Here is a list of all the postings Ramon Wilson has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: What adhesive - that shrinks when it sets - do you recommend for melamine laminate sheets?|
I use basic 'Screwfix' silver screws but I'm sure any 'modern' parallel thread screw would do. I would think an acrylic filler for the melamine surface would be best. If done with care they would be hard pushed to see let alone feel.
Maybe so but the principle's the same - the object is to get two pieces of board together to provide a flat surface without it warping or delaminating. My approach is on the basis of once bonded it's bonded - if a warp does then ensue it rather defeats the object - atmospheric conditions can, and will, play a part in trying to do what you want to prevent..
FWIW all the MDF two layer bases I make for my plastic models are screwed together for the same reason but - 'yer pays yer' money etc.
It seems to me that the use of JB Weld in this situation is rather a waste of the product.
The thing to bear in mind once this gluing of two surfaces together - to provide a flat one - is the inability to part them if it does warp. Not suggesting it will but am saying it might - too late then.
NDIY's and others suggestion of screwing is to me the most logical. Correctly done the screws can be equally spaced to ensure even pressure across the area and the heads countersunk enough to either be flush or filled over. The original poster does say that for most of the time it will be used under cutting matts so screws shouldn't be an issue.
The environment would appear to present a challenge with -5 to + 40 and relevant humidity changes - another thing to be considered.
I have in my workshop a very flat bench top - MDF on top of MDF on top of Chipboard - all screwed together. It is checked for flatness and warpage each time I build a model - so far the stability has remained since I placed the last layer on
As always the pics are to assist the recommendation but what I do does require an absolutely flat working surface - the above has proved admirably successful for me.
Someone suggests this is probably being over thought, yes the question was about which glue type to use but it's time to think outside the envelope perhaps.
Regards - Tug
Edited By Ramon Wilson on 01/04/2022 08:04:11
Edited By Ramon Wilson on 01/04/2022 08:11:55
|Thread: Using kerosene to clean ground surfaces|
I've used kerosene with mineral oil added (about 90% kero) to clean and wipe down my lathe and mill for as long as I can remember - there's a bottle by the lathe right now. Personally I do not find the 'smell' offensive - hardly notice it and it certainly doesn't degrade into an offensive aroma. It's an ideal lubricant for lapping too. And a wipe over tools with some on a cloth doesn't leave them 'oily'. I should add I never have any issue with rust either.
BTW acetone - or any other similar lacquer solvent for that matter should be used with caution as it will attack any painted surfaces very quickly indeed.
It is far less 'toxic' in the atmosphere than WD 40 which can cause respiratory effects if used in a closed environment.
At my last place of work WD40 was used excessively on the lathe - it did not take long for the hot fumes to effect my lungs for sure - paraffin (kero) is far less noxious
Edited By Ramon Wilson on 24/03/2022 08:11:03
|Thread: Screw cutting problem|
Hello Keith - how are you? Still beavering away I hope.
I was smitten by the Atomatic '4' as soon as I saw Les Stones version on Model Engine News. The drawings I did for mine were pre CAD (for me) and simple pencil on paper. Ron Chernich was going to re draw them in CAD for MEN and a set were sent to him. Sadly his illness got the better of him before he was able to do so.
There was an Atomatic '5' as well so drew it out without the need for scaling
I still have the original drawings I did so if you would like them I can either copy you a set or take some images of them - unfortunately I am now not able to scan them to send digitally.
Regards - Tug
Inverted 'commers' Andrew but point made never the less
Well yes I guess I do live in the past where conventional machining is concerned - on basic kit found in the home workshop. I too have had my time on transit van sized Haas machining centres but when I step into my workshop with my Super 7 that has served me well and the post war Linley Milling machine the same then reality strikes home and I use practices that suit the kit and the skill level required for the job.
I've always tried to help people on here who are beginners or are struggling to achieve something by giving an example to go by. Never thought I'd be considered a 'Medlar' nor that I might be seen as attempting to score brownie points but there you go - something I guess I'll have to live with
Thanks for the comments Hopper - just for interest all done on my S7 and Linley mill and from solid - no castings were harmed in the making. A full build log is here if you are interested. Oops there I go again, looking for brownie points - bugger.
Jason - some progress has been made - basic assembly all okay and all cast finished. Control Line currently has the upper hand over and yes some serious developments in the garden too but hope to be back on it in the Autumm. Hope you are keeping well
Regards - Ramon
Over the years I have screw cut many items on my S7 without using the compound slide.
This is permanently set at 15 degrees for normal turning for no other reason than to give clearance to the tail stock. I only change this position if the specific turning warrants it so it remains at 15 degrees for screw cutting too but of course is not used to apply a cut. You can see the corner of the compound slide still at that angle in this image.
The image is from the build of an Atomatic 5cc diesel which required several parts to be screwcut - L&R/H all done as above which can be seen in this view of the parts.
I usually coat the part with a felt tip pen and scratch the surface with the tool to check the pitch then depending on material and depth of thread required take at least a 10 to twenty thou cut reducing as the depth increases and taking spring cut passes at stages without putting a cut on - I have no aids other than the cross slide movement so speeds are a bit slow to prevent mishaps if working to a shoulder. One tip I was shown at work many years ago was on that last cut or so if the gauge/mating part won't quite go on is to make a cut on the same setting but apply a very slight drag on the saddle handwheel by hand - this will give a scrape to the rear face of the thread without digging in. An acquired skill but one worth trying to master - try it out with plenty of material to go first!
BTW - Shouldn't that 29.5 degrees in your image be 27 .5 Jason
Regards - Tug
Edited By Ramon Wilson on 17/03/2022 09:58:30
|Thread: A puzzle and small disaster|
Hi Nicholas - I've never been aware of cast galling on steel but of course if there are hard spots or inclusions I could see that may occur. For the most part for instance En1a steel in cast is a fine bearing combination or indeed ideal piston and liner combination in IC engines.
I had to go out earlier tonight but was trying to find these few pictures beforehand.
These show the pick up that occurred on the Atomatic build
The initial screwcutting.
Trying the previously screw cut head to check the thread - this galled without warning. Just about to machine it off
Final break through
The galled spot - small but compacted this resisted all attempts to unscrew the head
After re cutting the thread. There were a lot of screw thread fits on this particular IC engine so a lot of nervous moments when trying fits and the use of plenty of anti galling grease from this point on!
Hope this helps you James to visualise what galling means.
Regards - Tug
Galling James is when two pieces of similar metal rub against each other as in fitting together. It can happen when you least expect it and is rapid occurance and virtually immoveable. Aluminium is probably the worst, followed by mild steel and then brass - though I have only worked with stainless on rare occasion I believe it too is also likely to gall.
It is very unlikely that steel would gall on cast, nor cast on cast but if you do manage to get the parts apart there will be a distinct witness of where the galling occurred.
When I built the Atomatic engine the aluminium cylinder head galled on the crankcase - despite gingerly trying the thread on I felt it 'go' and no amount of trying would reverse it. The case was held in the lathe and could not be moved so the head had to be machined off and remade, the galling just one small spot in the thread which had to be re-cut.
Hope that explains it for you
Edited By Ramon Wilson on 07/02/2022 18:06:07
|Thread: Non-warping Wood for Base?|
It seems to me looking at your previous models that you have used wood but in comparison they are much shorter. I can certainly appreciate your desire not to have a base that will eventually twist.
You could try using block board - a lamination of two layers of ply separated by strips of timber glued together. Not cheap but you may get an offcut. I have some that is 1" thick that I used for a baseboard to build a large ship model many years back (due to circumstance at the time it was never finished) It's very dense and extremely warp resistant.
I used a left over piece to make the base for this case and cut the timber to surround it. The timber was recycled from an old mahogany mantel shelf
The surface is the ply - not further veneered and coated with french polish ie it is not 'french polished' in the traditional sense
Its absolutely flat and is now several years old and sits on the sideboard in a centrally heated environment - no warps yet
Maybe more food for thought ?
Edited By Ramon Wilson on 06/02/2022 22:54:34
Reading through your initial post again Doc at a metre long and 200 wide solid wood would be risky indeed especially with a waterline model.
Just a thought but does it have to be a wood finish? MDF as suggested could be painted in a complimentary or contrasting (to the ship) colour. Any thought as to a cover going over it? A secondary under base can provide support for that.
Something like this perhaps?
All my models have picture mount board card covers over them that sit on the lower edge to protect from dust but could just as easily be acrylic or glass.
Just another thought perhaps
Doc, I don't think the recessed and filled base would give what you seek.
Wood, depending on what you choose, will react to environmental conditions in varying ways. For example I have a piece of extremely old timber - I think its Oroko and probably 60years plus old that I took a slice off to make the bearers for the marine engine - I cut two at the same time but only used the one. The spare piece now sits like a banana. Once cut, no matter how flat theres no way of knowing how wood will react over time.
To be certain the base needs to be composite and veneered - thick multi layer birch plywood is one option, blockboard is another.
I use 19mm intumescent MDF for my plastic models - don't know how easy that would be to veneer, I just seal it and leave it as is but it is basically inert and extremely flat The base I have for my Kuznetsov aircraft carrier is ex furniture veneer faced chipboard still to be edged with wood beading. To me that is the way you need to go given your concern for the model's basic fragility.
|Thread: A puzzle and small disaster|
Point taken Jason, for some reason I had thought the OP had said he had used a Myford - I can see now he doesn't mention it!
I use the MDF backing idea on many ops where cutting into the support is inevitable. I found some really hard 2mm thick - ex picture frame I think - extremely consistent in thickness it proved ideal. Not much left now - need another frame
Like most things in ME there are plenty of ways of skinning the cat - for some it's finding the best way to suit the cat
Regards - Ramon
PS - Completely concur with drilling - boring - and then reaming
Edited By Ramon Wilson on 05/02/2022 14:51:04
The OP James did say he drilled/reamed the hole ega
I have just uploaded several images to my albums for you regarding the lathe mods. If you - or anyone else of course - would like to know more I'll be happy to start a separate thread and not encroach on James's here
All the info and advice given above is sound for the flywheels shown and without question but I feel you are over looking one thing - it's a Stuart 10 flywheel that the OP is concerned with. What's that - 31/2" diameter at most? The usual Myford faceplate's slots probably don't go in far enough and besides the clamping would need to be a small affair too.
There is nothing wrong with using a mandrel for such a size and providing the speed is kept well down chattering should not be an issue with a sharp tool and light cuts. I certainly wouldn't be using carbide on this though unless there were hard spots.
The mandrel should be an easy fit to the bore - hand push on and off, free to move but without shake and the part retained by a sound washer and bolt. A slip of copy paper between mandrel face and washer face and the part will enhance grip. Cast is very unlikely to gall on a steel mandrel - I would think the small taper as intimated by Jason was the likely culprit.
This is a fabricated wheel about 5" diameter being faced and turned on the OD off the bore. Note the HSS tooling.
A firm mounting and slow rotational speed is the key to preventing chatter.
Hope that helps some more - good luck with your 10H
|Thread: beginner problem with qctp|
Roger, you are not far off but you can't adjust the height of the tool with the toolholder locked into place.
The adjusting screw is just to determine the height of the holder. Set the tool - lock it - try for centre height - adjust if necessary - lock the adjusting screw. Job done
Once you are happy it's on centre line that's it until you regrind (if HSS) or change the tool bit.
Roger, Oliver is correct, everything is perfectly okay with your holders.
To get a tool on centre height set it to roughly where you think it should be then use the point of the tool to gently nip a six inch rule against the diameter of the workpiece. If it's dead on centre height then the rule will be vertical - if pointing towards you it's too low, away from you is too high. Readjust the height setting screw to bring it vertical or very slightly towards you.
A tool will cut if very slightly under the centre but will dig in/rub if above
Hope that helps some more, good luck with your journey with your Super 7 I remember only too well my first steps- now they are coming to an end.
Edited By Ramon Wilson on 03/02/2022 13:24:29
|Thread: Lapping in a lathe|
That should have read chuck!
Never had an issue with the chuck side of things a card or thin plywood disc that fits over the lap mandrel could help I suppose - I have done that to limit the movement of the liner over the lap but never given thought to it keeping the compound out of the lap. The bedways I just cover with three or four layers of paper hand towel.
Though I have it I very rarely use diamond and use silicon carbide or carborundum instead. Having said that recently I did a friends PAW 29. Getting the bore true proved very difficult so it's coming back for the diamond treatment .
I always use plenty of paraffin and oil so it always wipes off easily enough
Good luck with the Snipe
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.