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Member postings for Ramon Wilson

Here is a list of all the postings Ramon Wilson has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Model paints.
25/02/2020 12:46:23

Dek, I believe the later Mks of Spitfire were painted in 'high speed silver' after the war (?) but an early version Hmmm? Nigel is right about Tom Neil and the 'Silver Spitfire' though so you would be pretty close to reality if not exact Mk - if its a 'test bed' for animation a spray over with Humbrol silver rattle can will do just fine yes

I too suffer with shaky hands at times, not the best of attributes for this kind of modelling - controllable for the most part but they can be a real pain when at their worst so can empathise.

Nigel, when I returned to 'plastic' in 2003 it was a completely different world from when I left it around 1970. It all began (again) when I made a Lancaster for my cousins husband for his eigthieth birhday. I went on to armour then settled on 1/48 scale aircraft for a while. I saw a 1/32 scale Trumpeter F8 Crusader (one of many 'favourite' aircraft) at a show and decided to do one. Far too big I concluded I would not build another in that scale but a not to be missed bargain of the same scale F100 at another show sealed my fate. I have built 1/48 since but much prefer the larger scale even if the outlay is a lot more.

I think your Spitfire must have been a second generation as I was eleven when I first had one. I was newly married by the time BoB was realeased. Incidentally, while filming for that was going on I was walking to catch the bus when a Heinkel? flew directly overhead - it was a stange feeling seeing those crosses. A few days later I saw about three or four Hurricanes flying very low down across fields at the back of my house. Friends saw a lot more but I worked away at the time so missed most of it.

I find plastic modelling a very relaxing if time demanding hobby. No, I'd be the first to agree it's not the same as machining but it's just as absorbing and requires skill of a completely differing dimension to do it justice

Regards - Tug

24/02/2020 14:04:40
Posted by mgnbuk on 24/02/2020 13:30:12:

Things have certainly moved on from the 2/- Airfix kits from Woolworths that I built in my youth, brush painted with Humbrol enamels.

Nigel B.

 

Just turned 75 Nigel, we must be close in age - I well remember the ubiquitous 'blue' Spitfire in the poly bag from 'Woolies' as my first venture into 'plastic' - couldn't afford the paint at first though! (Thinks, wasn't it 'Britfix' before Humbrol?)

Re the smell of Tamiya - I guess it's all relative but it does not have that effect on myself or my wife who is often in the workshop. Alclad and to some degree the new AK extreme metal paints do however - I do have to wear a mask with those even with a good extractor going. The new AK Real colours, similar to Tamiya and again lacquer based, have even less smell - to me. (These are the original Tamiya paints, not the newly released alternative version)

All of the paints I mentioned above are good - in some eyes some will be better than others but given the amount available its hard to make that first choice if you are not certain. I think it would be fair to say that not all paints are equal. I'd overlooked Lifecolour, another excellent paint but I suggested Tamiya for one basic reason - its a basic 'standard' paint with which success, especially for a newcomer, can easily be achieved. From that one can move on to explore other options.

I too have a 1/32 Spit in the 'stash' - HobbyBoss MkV - but currently finishing a same scale FW190D using the new AK Real Colour paint.

Too many ideas too little time

Tug

 

 

Edited By Ramon Wilson on 24/02/2020 14:07:47

24/02/2020 12:19:06

Dek, Hi,

As someone who spends too much time plastic modelling at the expense of ME can I assure you that the Acrylic tube paint is not the path to take for spraying your model. As has already been said the pigment is far to coarse for it to be thinned to the viscosity required for an airbrush.

There is an absoute myriad of (acrylic) paints out there to bewilder anyone new to the hobby - Humbrol, Hannants, Revell, Tamiya, Gunze Sanyo, Mr Paint, MRP, Vallejo, AK interactive, Mig Ammo, Hataka etc etc There are two kinds of acrylic too - Polyurethane based and Lacquer based. Either work fine but it's best to stick to one or the other when spraying a model - for the first time

As with anything, all who participate in this great hobby will advocate one paint over another - another myriad of choice. Personally I would not say one is vastly better than another though I do have my preferences - like most it's down to individual choice. That said, given this is your first attempt I would suggest you consider using Tamiya Acrylic paint and Tamiya thinner for the spraying. It's readily available in the colours you will require, sprays exceptionally easy and dries quickly. Lacquer based, unfortunately it does not brush paint that well but is okay for very tiny parts - the Vallejo or similar paints are ideal for this.

What I would strongly recommend however is that you practice on something before spraying the model itself.

Priming is important - I prefer a lacquer primer to the Acrylic ones mainly do to drying times - Tamiya do an excellent one in an aerosol - another is Alclad 2 'Fine Grey Primer and Micro Filler'.

I'm afraid what you have discovered is that plastic modelling is not such a 'cheap' hobby as many think - buying the kit is the first stage - what and how far you go with it after that is very much how much extra one is prepared to pay. 'Drip fed' it can drain a wallet very quickly indeed !

Good Luck with your model whatever you chooseyes

 

Regards - Tug

Edited By Ramon Wilson on 24/02/2020 12:19:50

Thread: Cylinder bore measuring
22/02/2020 20:37:18

I would agree Neil that you can use a slip pile or a micrometer to set a two point gauge but I think you would agree to it's not the easiest way to establish a 'zero' for measuring a bore.

For many years I worked 'in microns' on multi stage progression tool parts. The environment was not temperature controlled save ambient temperature - up one day down the next. It was just taken that everything we made was relevant to the dimension required - max tolerance was .01mm min was .002mm don't ever recall any temperature related problems with tooling as made over some fourteen years.

BTW did you ever get those Oliver drawings I sent via Dean ? It would be nice to know

Just had a look on Arc Euro Graham - set of three three point mics 11 to 20mm are £368 - far too much to justify I'm afraid but boy, I would like'em wink

Regards - Tug

Edited By Ramon Wilson on 22/02/2020 20:38:22

22/02/2020 19:02:29

I don't want to appear dismissive here guys but are we not going off the beaten track here a little - surely this device can be seen as Graham first described it - a 'gauge' or comparator - it certainly isn't a micrometer. No different in principle to Bob Browns Mitutoyo gauge just vastly superior.

To use it as a measuring device would require zeroing it to a known source ie a ring of specified diameter. Precision ground setting rings should be provided with three point micrometers to establish 'zero' like any micrometer standard but are not 'standard issue' for bore gauges

Just been and checked my Mercer 3 point bore gauge - instructions are clear - set gauge to 'datum ring' (not provided), rock about center to establish 'zero' then use on bore being machined to estabish size. That datum ring can be machined from mild steel to as fine a tolerance as wished to the nominal size required - it does not need to be hardened and ground - and will see many bores 'sized' before wearing

I have a Mitutoyo gauge the same as Bobs but find it very hard to establish an accurate zero to give the kind of accuracy required for the kind of bores that Graham is referring to. A bore for a compression ignition engine, as I'm sure that those who have made them will attest, requires a very fine tolerance on measurement and roundness.

Personally I would love to have a set of three point mics to cover the ranges usually machined but desire and expenditure are a million miles apart I'm afraid.

Good luck on the liners Graham however many you makeyes

Regards - Tug

21/02/2020 20:45:34

Lovely find Graham thumbs up - most envious

No excuse now for that perfect liner eh wink

Regards - Tug

Thread: cylinder boring
11/02/2020 08:54:23

Hi Philip, establish the bore first and acheive the final finish before making the piston/rings to suit.

That way it does not matter if your cylinder is slightly over or undersize, a piston is always much easier to finish to suit a bore than the reverse

Hope that helps some - Tug

Thread: Nalon Viper
27/01/2020 14:13:06

Hello John, Graham,

It looks like I may have the same bench mounted Delapena as you have John. Thing is I have never used it. I bought it off Polly Models at an exhibition quite some time ago. It was quite grotty with a damaged pulley and though near done I'm afraid it's still in a state of rebuild. I have managed to get some tooling for it but I have to say that because lapping has proved successful I've never really been motivated enough to finish it. Like wise the external hones. I was lucky enough to get two brand new sets off Ebay and though have used them still prefer to lap pistons with a home made lap

As you can see these are quickly made and do work very efficiently.

Achieving a tapered bore as Graham asks is quite easily achieved by lapping simply by dwelling at the bottom end of the liner - is this possible when honing on such a hone?

Good to hear you are making a Nalon - I look forwards to seeing your method on the bearing set up. Whilst I disagreed with your suggestion earlier it did cause me to look into bearing set up further and can see your argument from a preloaded perspective. It doesn't change my thoughts on all that has been seen before but has given rise to rethinking how preloading could be achieved without a spacer.

Graham - all the drawings are done and material now in hand.

I have another modelling project I need to finish first but hope to be starting this beginning March at latest.

Regards - Tug

26/01/2020 13:39:27

Well done Graham - knew you'd get there in the end, I bet that brought a big grin to your face smiley well worth the persistence eh?

If the needle is right out sounds like you may be metering at the cross hole - possibly the jet hole is a little deep past the cross hole in the spray bar, a finer taper might help or make a new spray bar with the jet hole a mil or so deeper than the cross hole.

Sounds like you have near enough for a second engine too. Any thoughts on another (different) engine or is it time to rebuild those AM's etc

Great result mate - congratulations all round on a super effort yesyes

 

Regards - Tug

 

Edited By Ramon Wilson on 26/01/2020 13:44:38

25/01/2020 20:45:11

Good news Graham - if it will fire on a prime then it should run providing all the parameters are right - that includes the rotor of course smiley.

You won't be the first to make that mistake though wink and you'll soon have another done.

I had a real issue with one of my Etas at an Old Warden do - it had performed well before but it simply would not run other than firing on a prime and immediately stopping. The symptoms were of flooding but strangely there didn't appear to be an excess of fuel in the cylinder. Finally gave up, concluding something was wrong inside rather than the engine itself, and left it till I got home. Turned out I had been rather over enthusiastic with the after run oil when putting it away previously - taking the backplate off revealed the case was virtually full of oil - soon as it had fired it had stopped itself. Poured the oil out and it was away with no problems.

Another flooding issue was on the second Hunter - I had only run one of them previously - opened the needle the usual amount, exhaust prime and a couple of chokes and immediately went into a flooded situation. Did as I recommended to you - closed the needle off and kept flicking till it fired - it then broke into a lovely consistent run with the needle fully closed! I hadn't seated the needle all the way home when soldering it to the thimble so open 2 1/2 turns was more like 5!

All the fun of making these fascinating little engines - getting a sore set of fingers that islaugh

Keep on trying - Tug

24/01/2020 23:21:32

Hello Graham, just read of your disappointment but don't despair just yet.

First off you say your fuel is a couple of years or more old - that shouldn't be a problem but... if the cap wasn't on really tight the ether content can gradually evaporate away - seen that happen more than once which usually leads to blaming everything bar the fuel. Do you have another engine that you know runs you can test it with? That said John will have some fresh stuff for sure.

Your piston fit 'sounds' okay to me from your description - a good test if you are not too sure is to prime the exhaust with some neat paraffin and just slowly turn the piston up the bore against compression - you should get a degree of bubbling around the exhaust ports but not too excessive - try again with some fuel - if it is excessive then your piston/liner fit may need addressing.

If the compression feels okay it's got to be something really out of kilter not to at least get a fire from a prime unless of course you have it well and truly flooded. In that case if it feels 'wet' close the needle completely, keep flicking and blowing across the exhaust ports until it seems 'dry'. From this point gently adjust the comp on exhaust primes alone until you get a burst. That should happen 'all things being equal' on the build quality. Once you get a couple of bursts from an exhaust prime gradually open the needle a bit at a time until the bursts start to lengthen hopefully finally into a run.

If you can't get it to fire at all then it's rethink time I guess but if anyone can get it to work it'll be Johnny Alcockwink

Don't give in quite yet

Regards - Tug

21/01/2020 12:25:25

Yep, sometimes it has to go wrong to learn from it Graham. I usually put the drive hole in the rotor on the mill and then very slightly elongate it to compensate for any deviation. This is something that has got to be right for the car engine - Hugh suggested just a slot on the driven side but I'd prefer to have it aligning if possible.

You can't be far off a run now - anticipation at this end is steadilly growing wink

Regards - Tug

13/01/2020 19:27:15

'Waltzed off to local engineers emporium' eh Graham - coo I wish. Time was there was a choice of several - all sadly gone but one and that ain't like it used to be.

Hope your assembly goes well, as said it will be a few weeks before I get going on mine but everythings ready to make a start - 'cept time!

Tug

13/01/2020 09:06:30

Hi Graham,

I've not seen the design as drawn, on a spray bar before and don't know the reasoning behind it - my thoughts are as yours - just make it a conventional one with one or two cross holes about 0.8mm dia.

It should be made such that the needle meters the fuel at the seat and not at the outlet point.

If its one cross hole set it such that the hole points down the bore very slightly offset from dead centre, if two then on opposite sides across the venturi - not in line down the bore.

There has been quite a few variations on the basic needle design over the years but I don't feel that theres any real advantage over the conventional tapered needle set up at this kind of level.

Not long now before theres a whiff of diesel in the air eh yes

My drawings are finished and I now have the material but it will be a few weeks yet before I can make a start

Looking forwards to hearing how yours run

Regards - Tug

Edited By Ramon Wilson on 13/01/2020 09:07:22

Thread: A 5cc Twin Shaft diesel engine
04/01/2020 08:45:11

Thanks Oliver, had another check of John's book last night. thumbs up

I haven't given too much thought to the car as yet only that it would be a single seat racing car of 30s/40s vintage.

I was thinking of a substantial ali plate chassis supporting a GRP shell but that's a long way off as yet. As you say though it must play a part in answering this latest query. I will do away with the angle but as this is going to be a dedicated application I'll still machine the lugs off and fit a base but keep it flat - much easier.

Parts drawings should be finished later today

Tug

03/01/2020 18:00:41

Oliver - I'm on the last throes of the drawings and have been doing the crankcase .

As the cases have been pre machined (but not finished) I have to machine the standard mounting lugs off and intend to attach a base. I note the engines some times sit at an angle so I have set it at a 15 degrees on it's base - is that in the right order? I assume that's to help cooling around the fins?

Thought's appreciated

Cheers - Tug

02/01/2020 14:10:01

I've just found something out - twice - do not write the post then open a posted image to check something as you lose the lot!!!

 

Ok thanks for the pics Oliver - very helpful. I had'nt given the heat sink potential any consideration but can see that that would assist. Looking at the last image it appears that there is some kind of compound set around the cylinder - I can only assume this is to do the opposite and retain a degree of uniformity of temperature. It certainly looks a powerful beast even if it is only 1.5cc. I guess this the kind of engine used in the streamliner type car.

The shafts were drawn as such to reduce the overhang (and to a minor extent the material used) - do you see a problem with using a hex head bolt/screw as opposed to a nut? What about L/H threads - do they get used to aid wheel retention? They can soon be changed to shafts though.

I notice the clean steel plate within the tyre, unlike the rubber covered area on the sellers site. I assume you have cleaned that off. How central do you find the hole to the tyre rim - I could envisage balance problems here maybe?

Liner and piston drawings done this morning - not too far to go now

Regards - Tug

Edited By Ramon Wilson on 02/01/2020 14:11:03

Thread: Nalon Viper
02/01/2020 13:28:08

Ah that's great guys - no problems then Graham - my drawing definitely states use 1" x 3/16 thick slitting saw but shows .0935 port width.

These were the early drawings from the site as soon as they were posted - I guess Ron updated them

Whatever - glad you don't have any problems.

I haven't checked the second one piece cylinder Jason - that would give a differing timing all other things being equal at the case - possibly the thinking behind it.

Tug

Thread: A 5cc Twin Shaft diesel engine
02/01/2020 09:37:57

That is something that occurred to me Jason as I was laying this out - all that I can see from the limited info available are standard layout so I'll keep to that at this stage but I do think thats a point worth considering in future design (future?) Perhaps others could comment - Oliver? The fact that these (diesel) engines get very hot in this application was mentioned in talking with Hugh but cooling and specifically fins wasn't.

Something you raised before about a rotor disc? I noticed in the Oliver book a break down of an engine using one. It appears the rotor itself is the actual crank web not a separate part as in the 'Ato' - this was driven by the main shaft. Doesn't give any info nor how successful it was - seeing as most after were straight rotary shaft inlet one can only assume it wasn't a worthwhile enterprise commercially but may have merits from a home built outlook

I'll send you it as a PDF later - would be nice to have the skill to do it in 3D but just don't have the inclination to spend the time learning for such little use it would get. Be nice to see you do it though.

Ron, I have no idea but someone will I'm sure - it's an interesting concept though, whether its potentially viable (from a power absorbing perspective) I wouldn't know

Time to get back on the drawing board

Tug

Edited By Ramon Wilson on 02/01/2020 09:47:27

Thread: Nalon Viper
02/01/2020 09:18:09

Graham - I don't know if you have cut the exhausts ports on your liner yet but I have just noticed that the section drawing quotes to use a 3/16 sltting saw to do so. I'm certain this is a typo and should read 3/32 - the porting as drawn is such. 3/16 is far too wide even if the top edge is set correct.

Hope you've found this already but if not hope this is not too late

Tug

Just looked at your images - looks like you have. Providing the top edge is in the right place it won't affect the timing but if I'm right will give a massive amount of sub piston induction - you may be able to lengthen the piston skirt some to alleviate this.

I'm just drawing out the liner for mine and spotted this - sorry to bring discord to your build!

Edited By Ramon Wilson on 02/01/2020 09:46:36

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