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Member postings for Ramon Wilson

Here is a list of all the postings Ramon Wilson has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Heatshrink sleeving as a heat insulator for valve handles?
26/09/2021 08:50:00

Silicone tubing as used for model aircraft fuel tube is perfect for this problem. Unaffected by the temperatures involved and a good insulator. Comes in a variety of bore diameters, wall thickness etc and easy to slip on for use.

Not particularly visually aesthetic it's easily removed after use and can be used over and over.

Tug

Thread: Stuart Twin Victoria (Princess Royal) Mill Engine
25/09/2021 08:11:21

Doc, if the machining inside the bore is as reasonable off the tool as you said then you shouldn't need to hone or lap the surface as such other than with some wet and dry paper.

If you turn a piece of wood or ally to about 30 - 40 thou down on bore size about as long as a cylinder and wrap some 400 wet and dry around it that will out smooth the surface more that well enough. Drill it through to hold it on a handle of some kind and cut a slot along it deep enough to slot one edge of the wet and dry into then wrap round so that the motion tightens the abrasive not unwraps it.

Re the valve ports - this is what I meant about cast in ones from Stuart. You may be able to accommodate the error with the valve position but if you want to be absolutely certain of identical positions then as previously said you have to fit an insert with correctly machined porting. Not difficult to do and a bit late in the stage of thing but still achievable if you desire to go down that road.

24/09/2021 17:34:28

Hi again Doc, just checked through my PM's and yes you did share in the PTFE yarn. It's excellent material so you should have no issues fitting it

24/09/2021 12:34:26

Hi Doc, didn't you share in the PTFE impregnated yarn I bought? There were three of us - I was sure you were one.

If so make the groove a little wider than the nominal width of the material and a little shallower - around 5 thou or so in both cases.

The piston should be a good 3-4 thou down on diameter so there is no metal to metal drag.

I use a sharp (new blade) scalpel to cut the packing with a scarf joint across the width not the thickness. The extra width allows for a little compression when fitting - once in the bore it will find it's own level and give a very good seal with extremely low friction.

When fitting the piston to the bore make sure there are no surplus threads from the packing running down the side of the piston.

Not disagreeing with those who prefer to use o rings but groove dimensions are much more relaxed and friction a lot less.

Ramon

23/09/2021 09:06:18

Hi Doc, yes all the oilers on my engines are bespoke - some just simple open top cups others to represent full size with glasses etc. Easy enough to make in a variety of forms. As Jason says your engine represents a much larger engine than that in your photo so the oilers should be in keeping.

Oiling of your engine cylinders would more likely be by forced lubrication in full size of a similar engine. I found over the years - running on air - that putting a good slug of steam oil into the airline entry will get carried around and coat all internal surfaces more than adequately enough so cylinder oilers can at times be simple 'dummies'

If you can get hold of a copy of the Textile Mill Engine by Geo Watkins you'll see all sorts of examples.

Ramon

19/09/2021 18:43:19

Nice result Doc - a credit to your appoachyes

Re your comment on the Corliss - detail on the oiling system starts here

BTW a good material for making the glass of cylindrical oilers is the crystal clear tubes that protect artists paint brushes.

Ramon

Just found these pics from the Waller build that may be of use

dscn4532.jpgdscn4516.jpg

 

dscn4568.jpg

Edited By Ramon Wilson on 19/09/2021 18:50:52

Thread: How do you make this
17/09/2021 18:18:48

Hi Bob, if you take a look here you can see how I aproached the same problem on the Stuart D10 rebuild I did.

I made the two eccentrics separately which gives independent movement rather than a double eccentric set forever as machined.

By making the sliding plate and using the faceplate the job becomes very easy.

Hope that helps - Tug

Thread: Tap Extractor
15/09/2021 14:30:22

Ron

A carbide drill is another possibility with everything held really rigid. I had one to hand and used it for the same purpose on the Marine Engine build earlier in the year with success but a hollow cutter is just as good if a lot slower. I advised left had as it has a natural tendency to loosen the tap 'if you are lucky' but it is not essential. Just cut the teeth with as deep a gullet as possible and don't let the gullets crowd with swarf. Little and often, brushing the swarf out of the teeth as you progress - again the part needs to be in a rigid set up, not done freehand,

With care you will be able to reclaim your part with little indication of doingg so.

Good luck with it - Tug

15/09/2021 08:00:11

You may get lucky with trying to move it by other means but short of spark errosion it's definitely best to make a hollow cutter - 7 Ba clear inner and about a 1mm wall section. Cut the teeth with a file for left hand direction. Harden but dont temper. Slow's the word with constant swarf removal from the teeth. Slow process but it works (believe me!!). Once out, clean hole with next size drill and turn cast iron plug to suit, loctite in place and carry on as before.

Good luck for an efficient recovery

Tug

Thread: Stuart Twin Victoria (Princess Royal) Mill Engine
13/09/2021 16:09:49

Reading your last post through, I'd be inclined, as said, to set the spindle to zero on the boss hole. Move the R/T either a known angular amount or by eye - if the latter make a note of the setting on the dial. Take a cut either side of centre to do opposing faces to the same setting each side. Rotate table known amount or to the same setting as previous. Repeat cutting to same setting to do the other two faces.

Carefully file main and end radii using a filing button if accuracy is required

You could still use the R/T to do the main radius (or indeed the ends) but as you say run the risk of over shooting - an easy thing to do on an R/T

 

Hope that's of use too

 

Ramon

Edited By Ramon Wilson on 13/09/2021 16:12:01

13/09/2021 15:54:20

Haven't checked in for a while Doc - good to see more progress yes

Might be a bit late in the day now but theres a much simpler method of making the gland bosses. As much as I enjoy using a rotary table this is one of those instances when it really isn't neccesary.

Have a look here post 472 onwards for a much easier way. They won't neccessarily match the casting but then they rarely do in full size situations but they do all come out identical within the remit of hole spacing and filing buttons.

 

Regards - Ramon

Edited By Ramon Wilson on 13/09/2021 15:58:09

Thread: General Aeromodelling Discussion
11/09/2021 14:24:55

Thanks Keith and Ron,

Yep it's never the same once that first coat of castor goes on Keith sad. I do have a good cleaning regime though that should keep it looking fair for a while.

The covering Ron, is traditional heavyweight Jap tissue sadly no longer available. As you say though once it goes on all that intense work of previous weeks is quickly hidden. I would prefer to paint all over but that does bring the weight up considerably - keeping it clear doped helps with that as well as having a nice 'traditional' effect.

Although I don't compete any more this model design is from what is termed the 'Classic' period - models that were designed/published between Dec '58 (I think) and Dec 69. Well it was in my time but has been extended to Dec 1979 to encourage more input. Some of the models designed between 69 and 79 are certainly classics in their own right if not quite in keeping with the original period to my mind.

Any one else build and fly control line on here? Be good to hear from you if so

Regards - Tug

10/09/2021 08:36:26

Morning guys,

I finally finished one of those airframes - thought you might like to see it.

dscn0253.jpg

It's covered in jap tissue and clear doped with a tint of red in the dope. The fuse is painted with aerosol - 'CanBrush' a very hard wearing and easy to spay paint. The colour looks white in the image but is actually a nice cream.

Weight (always important) is slightly heavier than I would like but is 44.3 ozs all up. Power is a Stalker 40 glow motor and if the weather's is okay first flights will be on Sunday.

Tug

PS There's a couple more pics in my albums if you are interested

Thread: Cast iron cylinders
07/09/2021 11:51:37

Bob,

My first engine was a ST Twin Vic with cast iron pistons - after a lay up between it's first and second displays it was siezed solid. A strip down revealed rust was the culprit but it had not affected the bore surface. Fitted bronze pistons with PTFE impregnated yarn packing and never ever had any further issues. Ran like that on steam then air for many years before parting with it. All other engines built since have the same set up

That's not to dispute Andrew as cast on cast is a good wearing combination but cast on cast with condensation present in much smaller bores isn't a good idea in my thoughts.

Brass would be okay but bronze would be better

Hope that helps - Tug

Thread: Age and Realisation
07/09/2021 11:39:57

Thanks Bernard - sorted yes

06/09/2021 22:21:03

Hi guys,

I'm pleased to say both of the above have now been sold.

I managed to delete the Bentley from the 'For Sale' ads a few days ago but cannot seem to find a way tonight to do the same for the Jung radial.

It's in no ones interest to keep it there so if anyone has any ideas how to do this it would be appreciated

Regards - Tug

Thread: Bentley Rotary - Rust Prevention
25/08/2021 13:07:30

Okay David no probs yes

25/08/2021 09:25:49

Hello David,

Sorry, I can see it's a bit confusing. It referred to another thread in the Tea Room section - 'Age and Realisation'

Either a PM or posting here will get a response but currently a sale has been agreed with the first person to make an offer.

If it's technical help then it's been a while since working on it but I'll do my best to help

Regards - Ramon (Tug)

Thread: Age and Realisation
24/08/2021 22:14:31

Hi guys, thanks for the comments and to all those who have looked in.

First off I must say that I recieved a firm offer first thing this morning which I was happy to accept. Discussion on that is ongoing and I see no reason why that should not happen but if it doesn't then I'll let people know.

 

Second off is something I must stress - getting old I may be but I do not want to leave anyone with the impression that I am close to some kind of premature end. Yes Ady it is catching up with me but I'm not going under quite yet wink

My life has been blessed with making models - a passion that began with Meccano aged four - through model aircraft and into model engineering with several tangential paths along the way. I'm not fed up with it per se just a general tireness of it on a day to day basis.

Disposing of these two projects is the first step in a planned 'retirement' from active modelling and moving toward something more passive in my eighties. I've ayear or two to go yet but once the marine engine is done then it's time to really hang the overall on the door - the more sedate plastic modelling has an attraction and that 'Ship Book' pile has grown since Doc G first mentioned it on here - something awaiting those armchair moments rather than standing in front of milll or lathe.

Regards and again my thanks - Tug

Edited By Ramon Wilson on 24/08/2021 22:15:39

Thread: THE NUMBER 9 !
24/08/2021 15:35:43

Ah! you'd need a calclator to turn that into real timelaugh

Nice one Noel

Tug

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