Here is a list of all the postings Robin Graham has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Ultrasonic toothbrushes|
My wife has bought (at considerable expense) an ultrasonic toothbrush for use on the hounds. It came with a tube of special ultrasonic canine toothpaste (peppermint, which they really don't like) and a warning that we had to buy their special paste (at £15 for a 44g tube) or it wouldn't work. I doubt that, but maybe there are ultrasonic experts on here who could advise?
|Thread: Profiling tools|
Thanks for further discussion, Dave (SoD), yes, I know about the cubic inch per minute per HP thing but I think your second limit is the rate determining factor - in my case at least. My lathe has a 2HP (on the plate - input or output not specified) motor but I'm pretty sure it wouldn't be up to taking 2 in^3 per min! Obviously there are a lot of other variables as you say. I shall experiment!
Michael - I had the same misgivings about the way the device was mounted. I'd not heard of Gibraltar toolposts (why Gibraltar? Rock solid?) but my plan was essentially the same - a solid post mounted on the cross slide. I rarely need the additional degree of freedom given by the top slide - it mostly just gets in the way, so I'll be going along those lines.
Thanks also for links to cheapo cutters! Ebay came up with 'you might also be interested in... Ten CCMT inserts for 3.99
Rude not to! Especially as I get a 24p discount. For some reason.
Edited By Robin Graham on 22/08/2019 23:18:09
Edited By Robin Graham on 22/08/2019 23:18:25
Badly . I should have said Pi=6 obviously*. You are right of course!
Thanks for discussion, and in particular for Jason's pic - it may be that I'd be better off making custom cutters from silver steel or gauge plate for ornamental work in brass. If that can be done with a 280 I have no excuse for not doing similar with a slightly heavier machine.
I'd actually ordered a couple of RCGT inserts from JB cutting tools anyway - I've been surprised how well GT type inserts work with brass, despite having quite an aggressive positive rake. They seem to work well for finishing cuts in mild steel as well.
*There's no fundamental reason why Pi shouldn't equal 6, it just needs confidence and a determination to make it happen. Apologies if that breaches forum rules.
Edited By Robin Graham on 20/08/2019 21:32:01
Edited By Robin Graham on 20/08/2019 21:37:29
Edited By Robin Graham on 20/08/2019 21:42:33
I was looking at designs of radius turning tools based on boring heads and came across this video. The author (Ade Swash) uses an RCMT 06 carbide profile insert at the business end of the the tool, and it looks like it works well. He also uses the same insert for cutting the relief in the stock for his ball turning demo.
Hmm I thought, I've got one of those 6mm diameter profile tools (bought when I had only a tiny lathe which couldn't cope with it), maybe it'll work with the bigger machine I have now. It did, once I'd conquered nerves and was assertive with the cross slide, like you have to do with parting.
Question is - how big a profiling tool can one run on a 'domestic' lathe? I had a look at JB and they list up to 25mm diameter which would be 75mm (pi=3) cutting engagement if plunged to radius. Surely that would need a very big machine? Even 12mm would speed things up for me though if possible.
I have a 12x36 lathe and I'm working in brass.
|Thread: Pet peeves!|
Dog who howls insanely every time I descend to my cellar workshop because she thinks that's where I keep my pork scratchings. She's right in that, but makes the mistake of thinking that the only reason I ever go down there is to scoff unhealthy snacks. A very peeving pet!
Edited By Robin Graham on 16/08/2019 01:12:20
|Thread: Slot drills in a woodworking router?|
Thanks Jason, all is now clear - I have dug out an angle plate which should work.
Point taken about ATB blades. The guy on the jig-making video I've been looking at swipes the work sideways between the stops a couple of times presumably to cope with this, although he doesn't go into the problem.
Thanks, Sounds like it isn't a good idea. I'll stump up for proper upcut router bits or rethink.
JasonB - your link to finger joint cutting was very interesting. My project is to make a small finger jointed box but with shelves so 'slots' (dados?) to accommodate. I had thought about cutting the fingers on the mill, but I don't have the headroom if I hold the work in a vice. It looks like you held the work directly to the mill table, but I can't figure out how from the pics.
I've spent today making a cross cut sled for my table saw with the intention of making a finger joint jig, but it would be much simpler to do it all on the mill if possible. Sled will surely come in handy for other things though!
I have a one-off woodworking project which needs slots cut in sapele. I haven't got the right size router bits, but I have got a fairly comprehensive collection of HSS slot drills. I also have an ER20 collet chuck for my router, but only a half inch collet at the moment. I can buy a set of ER20 collets for less than the price of a couple of decent router bits - that would allow me to use any of my metalworking bits in the router, so may also be useful for yet unthought of projects.
Are there reasons why this wouldn't be a good idea? Different cutter geometries perhaps?
|Thread: Dam Solution?|
Definition of evacuate [Merriam-Webster]
1 : to withdraw from a place in an organized way especially for protection
2 : to pass urine or feces from the body
In both senses possibly! Being somewhat ancient my immediate reading was def 2 and an unpleasant image came to mind.
I'm not making an English usage point, it was just an amusing ambiguity when I realised what was intended (I assume!)
|Thread: Collet Chucks out of true|
Hi Iain. Harold Hall's 'a degree or two may not be a problem' (if we're reading from the same page) refers to the approach angle of the dial indicator to the test bar not to the taper - a degree or two out in the taper would indeed be a problem!
I recently made an ER40 lathe collet chuck from scratch. I set the topslide by turning the end of a piece of ali bar in the 3-jaw to a 'very light push fit' in an ER40 collet then set the topslide to match the collet as ndiy suggests. For reasons I don't understand the 4.00/28.74 method didn't quite tally, so after a bit of agonising I went for setting from the collet and ended up with about 0.008mm TIR on a test bars in (cheapo) collets. So it's doable - even by a rank amateur like me!
Edited By Robin Graham on 06/08/2019 01:03:31
|Thread: Upgrading to fibre optic broadband|
Thanks for the explanation Ian. My setup is simpler, just the master socket -> microfilter -> master wireless phone base and modem/router. Maybe I can fix the problem with a new master socket with inbuilt filter.
Re routers I've had a similar experience with a router supplied by BT as part of a package - despite being advertised as 'market leading' it didn't have the wireless range of of my venerable Netgear.
I have that too! I've just been living with it. Is it a simple fix? I have an old master socket (the type with an encircled T symbol in the top righthand corner) if that's relevant.
Dave / SoD - "Retaining a 20 year old router isn't a good idea. Not just because it might be getting unreliable but because old routers can only manage obsolescent transfer rates."
Point about 20 year old router taken, but given that the thing seems capable of delivering 20 megabits / second, which seems better than some are getting with ADSL and (presumably) newer routers, it can't be that bad. Seems pretty reliable too, despite having slaved away pretty much 24/7 over that time. Ee, they used to make proper routers in them days
You're right though, I should probably upgrade. Security is certainly an issue. No doubt I'll get a new one whichever way I jump - I've really had it with TalkTalk - maybe their user forum is better, but it has been impossible for me to communicate with their CS in any meaningful way - they just read from a script and ignore anything they're not programmed to answer. Not even a 'Kernel panic core dumped'*. Just round and round the same loop.
* Apologies to those who don't use Unix if that's obscure - it's what Unix comes up with when it can't resolve an internal problem.
Edited By Robin Graham on 03/08/2019 00:04:57
Edited By Robin Graham on 03/08/2019 00:06:00
Edited By Robin Graham on 03/08/2019 00:14:10
Thanks for replies - quite a lot to read through.
From what's been said it seems I'm unlikely to see any life-changing improvement by going FFTC - I should have said that there's just the two of us, my wife has a wireless laptop and I have a desktop with direct ethernet connection to my router - it was using that machine I measured the 20 Megabit/second download speed. We both use our machines mainly for web browsing and youtube audio streaming. We typically download around 100 Gigabytes monthly.
I think my best plan is to stay with ADSL and try to find a cheaper and more 'amenable' ISP - maybe I could renegotiate with TalkTalk but after my last experience with their customer service I really don't want anything to do with them if it can be avoided.
I was going to ask a followup question along the lines of "given I'm so close to the exchange (25 metres in fact) and the exchange is close to my nearest cabinet (230 metres) how can the maximum of 230 metres of fibre instead of copper almost double my speed?" I think Bazyle has answered that by pointing out that it's not just the physical infrastructure which affects speed, but also software settings controlling contention priority and maximum speeds.
I don't think anyone responded to Circlip's question 'are routers ISP dependent?' . All I can say (if you're still there Ian!) is that my 20 year old Netgear router has migrated between AOL, BT, and now TalkTalk without problems. I have no idea if routers supplied as part of ISP packages are locked in some way. I wouldn't be surprised if they are.
Norfolk Boy, I didn't have any problem with understanding your useful post - it never occurred to me that you might be talking in milliBytes! Context was enough!
I'm fed up with my ISP (TalkTalk) and planning to migrate. At the moment I'm on ADSL broadband and paying £40-50 per month including line rental and landline calls. Looking around it seems that I could upgrade to a fibre optic connection and still save some money.
However, despite having searched for technical info which might help me decide I'm still not sure if it's worth upgrading. I live in a small town and the local telephone exchange is just across the road - no more than 30 metres from the house I guess. The nearest green cabinet is in the centre of the town, maybe 250 metres away.
What I haven't been able to find out is if I stump up for fibre will I actually see a speed increase given it'll still be copper between my house and the exchange either directly or via the cabinet? I'm getting about 20Mb/s download and about 20ms ping at present, which seems goodish for ADSL.
Hoping someone out there understands this stuff and can advise!
|Thread: "I'm calling about your accident" - how does this scam work?|
Well, on another scam attack front I've now had an email from a chap who claims to have installed a virus on my computer which has hijacked the camera and recorded me masturbating while watching teenage porn. And he'll post the video to all my Facebook friends if I don't give him 2000 USD. Cripes! Same scattergun approach I suppose. Might have been more worrisome if (a) I watched teenage porn (and couldn't contain myself) (b) had a computer with a camera and (c) had a Facebook account. Weird, but lucrative I suppose. Presumably some people cough up?
Edited By Robin Graham on 30/07/2019 02:15:04
|Thread: Guess the Chemical?|
Well, OK, maybe! I picked that at random because of its apparent absurdity which seemed to match Neil's example.
I'd be quite unhappy if I found harmful levels of NaOH in the deionised water I use though - it wouldn't really be deionised! The MSDS I quoted from gives a maximum pH of 9.0 which isn't too corrosive - the upper limit for potable water is 8.5 I think.
Apologies if I've got it wrong - I'll wash my mouth, or at least my typing fingers with soap (pH around 10) if so
|Thread: "I'm calling about your accident" - how does this scam work?|
Thanks for replies - sounds like it isn't a scam as such then, just ambulance chasing without an ambulance. It did occur to me that there might be some people who by pure coincidence had suffered a recent accident and would engage with the caller. What are the chances though? Too low to make it viable I thought, but maybe not - as Dave pointed out there are TV ads along the same lines and I guess one can make a lot of phone calls for the cost of an ad.
We've had the termination of internet call too Nigel - wife responded with "What cr?p, just f*k off" (she'd had a bad day) but the caller didn't break stride...
I had a call on my mobile today - my wife fielded it and I heard her saying things like 'which accident was that' [have you had more than one accident then? was the response] ' I am a bit accident prone actually' she went on. She carried on chattily for maybe 4 minutes in naive woman with ill-defined grievances mode, then the caller put the phone down.
Just curious - does anyone know how this works? It must be a scam of some sort.
|Thread: Guess the Chemical?|
+1 for water - it's got to be nuts of Neil wouldn't have posted. Had a look at the MSDS for Cleanline deionised water:
Ingestion: Rinse mouth thoroughly with water. Give plenty of water to drink. Get medical attention if any discomfort continues.
|Thread: Finally sort of know which lathe to buy, but?|
Coggy, I don't know where you are but if you're looking at dealers Quillstar near Nottingham have a couple of decent looking Myfords up at the mo at less than insane prices. No affiliation &c &c, just bought some stuff from there and had a good deal. It seem he has a stash of original Myford parts too.
I'm not a Myfordista myself I should say - just noticed the offerings when looking for other stuff.
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