Here is a list of all the postings DMB has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Metrication of models|
The world moves on at what seems like an exhaustingly quicker pace. Or am I really slowing up at an alarming rate? Ha, ha!
All of you older forumites have experienced the tsunami of modern technology, same as me and some have picked up the baton and run with it faster than others. I look at things and think, can I make good use of this or that, or not? E.g., much better to have mobile in pocket than have to walk 1/2 mile to BT phone box and then find it smashed up and out of order. I have taken on board small things like led ring light for vert. mill, electronic rev counter for mill, lathe, bench drill. Dro s for mill. VFD on lathe. Mitutoyo elec. calipers. I just about cope with 'puters sometimes with a little help from my professional programmer nephew but to try to use it for 3D modelling is a step too far. While I would be struggling to master that, I would be losing a lot of time to do other things and life is rapidly getting shorter! Don't tell me that it would eventually save me a lot of time. I cannot see any great use for it for me. Mechanical stops and Dro s are perhaps a sort of halfway house but which I can make immediate good use of.
It all depends upon what you want to do.
I sit here after a hard day at the track, chuckling at the fresh can of worms I've opened, to fit alongside JA's!
I am the " wrong" side of 70 but feel comfortable with Imp. or metric, since I had both to contend with at school. At the time, couldn't see the point of this new - fangled decimal system except in Science lessons where it proved to be SOOOO much easier to use.
Duo-decimal currency, "2 farthings = a ha'penny, 2 ha'pennies = a Bob, sorry 1 shilling" and so on.
As mentioned above, rods, poles, perches, chains, quarts, 8 pints = 1 gallon, 112 lbs = 1 cwt. What a load of old medieval crap that belongs in some countryside museum. Thank goodness it's all going. I am now however, very grateful to my school for teaching me both systems so I can easily use which I choose. It's simply so lovely to just shift a decimal point when doing mental arithmetic. Still difficult to visualise some things, e.g., I have seen pictures of new cars dimensioned in thousands of mm! What you absolutely must not do is try to convert due to the extremely awkward equivalents. Must choose and stick to the one system throughout a whole build project. Enough drawing errors without an exponential increase caused by conversions followed by rounding off dimensions.
Edited By DMB on 05/10/2019 22:47:56
Re JA's comments under his small screws thread.
I think that as older model engineers give up the hobby and younger ones come along, they will bring their knowledge with them. They will only have been taught metric everything at school so old imperial designs will rapidly decline in demand as the youngsters will not understand them. Too much of a learning curve.
I envisage that many castings in the comprehensive sets will become unavailable due to the total cost. Main demand will be for loco wheels and flywheels since they are a pattern making nightmare and a huge amount of work to hack out of the solid.
On the other hand, a relatively cheap block of cast iron can easily be butchered in the mill to create inside cylinders. Maybe chimney and dome cover will still be wanted to cut the amount of machining but horns and axle boxes, even frame stretchers and motion plates can easily be fabricated. As another example, the bracket supporting Sweet Pea reverser stand can be quickly knocked up from offcuts/scraps with a welder. Point is, only items involving huge amounts of machining will be in demand for a casting.
Younger modellers will naturally go for metric threads. So easy, 6mm threaded hole? easy! use 5mm tapdrill. Think of all the complication of a say, BA thread and a number size tapdrill. Then there are all the other threads and sizes, all with their special series of tapdrills. If expensive sets of everything are not bought, you need to look at the drawings and use the American approach, Bill of Materials, but applied to specified threads and their tapdrills then go and source only those needed. What a performance!
|Thread: M&W rules now better...|
I once used a long rule to mark out my loco frames starting from the 1 inch division as I felt that the end of the rule could not be relied upon. Guess what? All went OK until I finished marking out, each time compensating for the "lost inch." On checking it all again, still seemed OK. After drilling all the holes and enlarging the big hole at the front end for the outside cylinder exhaust pipe, I discovered it was 1 inch adrift! Bugger! Then I thought, if patched frames were good enough for that centre of engineering excellence in Swindon (and no doubt elsewhere), then it's got to be good enough for me. I ended up with 2 large adjacent holes. So beware!
|Thread: Boiler build abandoned !|
If you try making a new boiler as you said, choose a small one to save money on cost of (a) copper, (b)silver solder, bearing in mind that the bigger the boiler so the longer each joint will be.
On a more positive note, it sounds like you're nearly there with the current one. Take on board comments by others above and next attempt, enlist supervision by a known boiler maker in your club.
Good luck and hope you are successful very soon.You are gaining knowledge and experience even with your troubles.
|Thread: Rip-Off? Don't judge by web domains.|
Wow! Big price "reduction" from £46 to £16, quite a fair old "come on"
|Thread: Brooks Stent Grinder Plans|
I have a TG jig built from just 2 castings, one of my round to its. Got the sketches from Canada, Guy Lautard and given the castings by someone who had given up, probably because he had no drawings. So started from scratch a long time ago and it's nearly finished. Just got the tool holder block to bore, drill and tap. Not top of my list as other small projects more pressing, needed for use soon and to keep the write ups going in club newsletter.
The Lautard device is very simple, based upon only one pattern to make 2 castings which need to be machined slightly differently. He goes on to describe different attachments, with necessary drawings included, to sharpen reamers, radius grinding and several others.
|Thread: Fitzroy storm glass|
Got it wrong, memory. Concoction went pink, like Shell's "Aladdin pink" paraffin.
Beware the fake Vodka, apparently fairly common.......
Disagree comments about nasties additives to stop it being drunk. Many years ago I and a colleague finished overtime and went into small pub near work, in Brighton. Very small bar crowded with drinkers obscuring goings on. Two scruffy men sitting at next table with half consumed pint glasses of beer. One looked around to see if anyone looking what he was about to do and furtively pours meths from a blue can (Boots) in brown paper bag. When the glasses were topped up with meths, the mix went the colour of "Esso blue"!
|Thread: Building a 4" traction engine|
Nobody mentioned it so far, steel boiler means professionally built due to skilled coded welder required and the metal has to be traceable. Find out makers with good reputation. Reading all the above, it looks to be a formidable project so I wish you good luck.
|Thread: Brooks Stent Grinder Plans|
Brooks Stent ; try gadgetbuilder
Stent ; drawings and castings from Blackgates Eng.
Stent drawings and build notes in either ME or MEW.
Harold Halls site and book and his is stock metal sections, no castings, likely to be much cheaper.
|Thread: Fitzroy storm glass|
Fitzroys stormglass was in "Eagle" Annual when I was young. Got it made up at Boots!
They did ask if it was OK to substitute Surgical Spirit, which they did.
I can confirm that it worked very well and I enjoyed using it and comparing with the weather. Seemed to be accurate.
Interesting banner ad @ top of forum.
The Engineerium has been up for sale for quite a long while now. I believe that there is only limited access to part of Southern Water's site which is still being used by them, with modern pumps, elec. motor driven. Wonder if there is movement, with the apparent disposal of models? Lovely old Victorian buildings with fancy brickwork and and an old beam engine. Hope it is soon open again to see it working.
|Thread: Grid Frequency [mains electricity]|
My parents had a pre - war Smith's mains powered mantelpiece clock which would stop if the electric went off and had to be manually restarted. Mum used that to know when it went off during the day when no lights were on.
More modern similar clocks are made self - starting but would be 'slow' by the length of time there was no "juice."
The clock face had a small rectangular window in the top half, where the room of a small black wheel could be seen rotating indicating that it was going. The wheel rim had a thin wavy yellow line to show it was moving.
|Thread: Another scam|
Dont block calls that show your number or you will block yourself!
I have at present, an el cheapo 12 month contract, paying only £15.90 monthly. It tells me the number of last caller only and doesn't take messages. Displays number calling when it rings
1. Any unrecognised numbers ignored by me, which I think is the main reason for the now almost non existent dodgy calls. Family, friends and club members know I will call back if I see their number. Most of us have email or text anyway.
2. I dont waste time listening to messages.
|Thread: Dam Solution?|
Lots of things have been done by cheapskate methods, including that dam. Long term, they should rebuild it properly from the ground up in massive rocks which cannot be dissolved/washed away like mud.Fill gaps with concrete, job done and 'everlasting.'
|Thread: Furrows on a milled edge|
Yeah, OK, so follow others advice above but after you have exhausted their recommendations, try using a brand new cutter. Lack of info to start with, didn't know it was brass. Dont use a cutter (any type, including files) on brass that you previously used on steel or any other ferrous / stainless metals. Why such a small cutter?any special reason? I nearly always use a biggie - 1/2 or 5/8" for general metal removal, seems to work OK. Self taught using a mill and using large dia endmills, failed to bust em! Sharp cutters = better finish, but correct speed and feed also very important. Many years ago I worked in a factory that was divided by a chain link fence! One side was called "clean conditions" and the other side was the rest where Ali and steel were machined.
Hope all the advice works 4u ok
Try sharpening the flutes.
|Thread: good service Arc eurotrade|
Add ProopsBros to names above. Ordered something very late night on Thurs 1st and package arrived Sat am so they basically only had Fri. to process and post order. Not done mail order with them before. Very satisfied customer.
|Thread: Dehumidifier project|
I admire your efforts with electronic gadgetry and well done. However, I have taken a different approach as follows.
They charge 19.98p a day standing charge, 15.6647p a unit or KWH. Working out total charge ÷ useage, almost 20p a unit.
Now, I cover my Super7 and hefty lump bench drill, Fobco Star, with thin plastic sheet, no heat. Only my small mill seems susceptible to condensation, even covered in thick plastic so I keep heat on under the plastic, 24/7. My home made heater is a 3-ply box made to house 4 - off 60W bulbs in batten holders fixed in round holes in the box, in line and wired in series to reduce current and cost. Opposite side of box open adjacent to top of bulbs to let the heat out. This works very effectively. Only gentle warmth, can switch off and touch a bulb and it's only a bit warm. They glow, very low light output.
I am not sure how to work out the running cost but I am certain that it's very low.
Assuming 240V and 60W, A = 1/4, so 240 ÷ 1/4 =960 ohms. Four in series. Continuing calculations resulted in such a small useage for being on for 8760 hours a year and cost apparently so low that I doubt whether I have worked it out correctly. Could somebody please advise how to do this?
The rest of the 10 × 8 feet shed unheated and covered entirely with felt for waterproofing, together with internal insulation. I do have a small humidifier which works by a moving belt and fan over a metal sheet (?) and water collects in a tank at the bottom. Dont use that very often. Tools and vice and work on bench protected by thin plastic sheet and are OK.I keep an awful lot of small tools in the house so they keep rust free with the central heating.
Edited By DMB on 30/07/2019 23:06:45
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