Here is a list of all the postings DMB has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Verge & Foliot details|
Just read your message about Foliot clocks. I am sure that one was described in Model Engineer - 1980`s??
Perhaps David (Editor) could enlighten us?
|Thread: LBSC L Class Baltic Tank in 71/4"|
Some years ago, the late Bert Perryman, member Worthing and Brighton & Hove clubs, built a 5"G model of "Remembrance" to works drawings and I remember seeing it running. It had the correct plates which read something like, "In memory of all the fallen LB&SCR employees in the Great War, 1914-1918." Dont know what happened to drawings but not in Worthing club`s Library as I`m their Librarian. I believe engine accepted by York Transport Museum, so you could try them to see if you can view it.
|Thread: To Web Master|
If I click on "Spindle Speed" in latest posts, part of thread text is hidden behind the latest posts box. Doesn`t happen to any others.
|Thread: Tongue in cheek|
I once read that the great Pyramid at Giza is not square at the base - its `out` by about 5/8 in. !! Given the measuring gear they had then compared with now and just think what a small proportion this is of the full length/width. As the TV prog says, How do/did they do that?
The problem is mainly one of visualistion, e.g., kitchen cupboards measure 600mm. Why? Calling it 2ft is much easier to visualise after a lifetime of using Imperial but using very large numbers of small increments like mm as above or large nos. of cm ofr measuring lengths of cars just seems ludicrous as well as difficult to `picture.`
|Thread: Workshop Heating|
Further to my posts, 14/1,15/1, I find that a short while using mill or lathe, motors do a lot of the heating and my workshop never hits 0C. Have got Six`s max/min thermometer to tell me whats going on. I keep a small range of frequently used tools in shop, e.g., couple of files ,hammers, a mallet, some spanners specific to Myford and mill, limited range of dies, taps and thei tapping size drills. I keep in the house, sets of taps, dies, drills, endmills, slotdills and accessories for lathe + mill not in use. Almost all metal stock is in house. Small pieces steel kept in PLASTIC containers, non-ferrous in metal tins, like McVities Victoria biscuits - its longer than usual round steel sweet tin so holds longer bits. I like the new Celebratios box in plastic, new last year - just right for odds sods of steel.
I look at drawings on cold/wet/sowy eves indoors + plan job(s) to do on my next workshop session and pick metals/castings/cutters etc + put in toolbox ready to carry down garden ot workshop. This system works better than it sounds.
|Thread: Stirling engines|
If advice given by others still not bring desired result, contact Roy himself. If you need it, I`ll give u his phone no., I`m sure he won`t mind, he`s a very amenable chap, known him for years as a fellow Worthing Club model engineer.
|Thread: Workshop Heating|
My workshop is 10x8 garden shed cocooned in felt and apex roof + South wall have sandwich of B&Q large bubble plastic sheet. Inside roof has 2 inch Polystyrene board. Inside walls, 3-ply plywood and void stuffed with fi-glass loft insulation.
I have 4-off, 40W bulbs in batten holders,wired in series in protective box on mill swarf tray, under lots of large thick plastic bags over mill. Switched on 9 months of year except June-August, subject to weather conditions. Keeps air just slightly warmer around mill with gently-glowing bulbs which seem to last forever as they are not running at full brilliance and temperature. Doesn`t cost much to run. Have got back-ups never used; a de-humidifier and oil-filled radiator. Myford has a lathe cover, no heat. Very large bench drill has empty building sand bag over top, no heat. Rust? whats that?!!
I should add that I live in "Sunny(?) South" and workshop heavily insulated.
|Thread: Iron Castings|
Thanks 4 your reply. Iam aware of MJ Allen as I used their long-closed "Haven Foundry" in Newhaven, some years ago. I got impression from their literature that Ashford were only interested in big orders like thousands of car brake drums/disks.
|Thread: Sandown 2009|
I really enjoyed MEX. I started taking ME when still @ school, way back in June `62! Think I have probably seen most ME XBNS since soon after that time.
I have been asked if Peter Fagg won anything for his LSWR engine, but I cannot remember if he did. Can you please confirm? Thanks.
|Thread: Model Engineer 4368|
`ere,`ere! Mine came on 31st + happy new year to all, especially our worthy Editor-youre doing great, keep it up!!
John from not-so-sunny Brighton.
|Thread: Iron Castings|
Thanks 4 your advice,will give him a try.John.
|Thread: Advert Layout|
I also have Computeractive and Webuser, both same Publisher and they have adopted the annoying practice of full page advert one side and full page Editorial on the other side. At one time they printed ads on both sides of a page + I just ripped them out, now I`m snookered!
I do tend to read an article, turning the page to find where its continued and ignore the ad. in between.
|Thread: Iron Castings|
I live in Brighton, so looking local, say Sussex/Hants/Kent/Surrey.
I want 2 off, Iron Castings from one pattern about 9" long.
Problem is finding suitable Iron Foundry.
Can anyone help, please?
|Thread: Citric acid as pickle|
Circlip and everyone,
Sorry I forgot to mention that all acids are neutralised by alkalies and vice versa. Just use a strong one to kill the other strong one e.g., Caustic Soda to kill Sulph. Acid, or other way round.
A fellow model engineer once showed me his Sulph. Acid pikling tub 4 small items - washing-up bowl under the bench, which after long use, developed large brown objects that looked like sea anemones. He said they had grown in the acid but I dont know whether this was a leg-pull or not.
As regards clothes that are more hol(l)y than righteous, Sulph. will dry out whitish but when next wetted, comes alive again and starts attacking cloth, skin, wood or I suppose, anything organic. The stuff is very difficult to eradicate.
I expect that retailers trying to rubbish Borax in favour of newer chemicals, which of course they stock, have a vested interest in flogging their more expensive "superior" jollops! Borax + "town Gas" worked well enough for me in school metalwork!
|Thread: Finishing a casting|
I have used `LOY` sometime ago. I seem to remember that it came in squeezy tube, like toothpaste. Got it from carspares shop who were at that time next door to long-gone Blabers Foundry, in Brighton. They recommended the stuff, saying that was what Blabers bought to fill in blemishes in patterns. Try reading up the excellent description of working on castings at the start of the QUORN articles.
|Thread: 2010 Harrogate Show|
Talking about getting directions from mapping websites, first time I went to Bristol xbn., the map showed a big X to indicate target but when I got there I found the toe-rags had sent me to the Health Centre @ other end of town instead of Leisure Centre!! Xbn sites seem to be quite hard to find unless you get the name of road or postcode/zip.Have been to certain xbns so many times, dont need maps any more!
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