Here is a list of all the postings DMB has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Calculating Feed Rate using Myford G-box|
How about if Anna shows us all what she`s got, in terms of a workshop, that is!
Perhaps the consistently higher secondhand prices asked for MEW against ME, shows how much more MEW is valued by readers. Also, it seems that the odd back copies wanted are difficult to obtain without paying a high price to a commercial outfit.
I started buying ME when it was weekly back in June 1962 and ever since. Seen quite a few Editors come and go, some mediocre, some good, some very good. Also had MEW from first issue. An excellent mag which somehow continues to improve, David building on whats gone before, extremely successfully.
Pity the next Editor of both mags - he (or even she!) will find David a very hard act to follow. Well done David.
|Thread: Magazines for sale|
Iam interested in 1920 to1930.
I am in Brighton - how close are you? Would it be feasible to personally collect?
How much do you want for them?
Sorry to read that David is ill. I wish him speedy recovery.
|Thread: Suitable high speed spur gears|
Try Muffett of Tunbridge Wells. They used to advertise regularly in Model Engineer years ago. Last time I checked, they had a website.
My guess was right: I have just clicked the links on both of them and they both have bases in various American States.
Right places and times for everything/horses for courses etc.
Come on David, chuck `em out!
I understood that this forum is for the sole subject of Model Engineering, not including medical items and least of all, blatant medical company advertising, For Free.
I think David should take this down at his earliest opportunity.
|Thread: So, now i have removed the Clarkson chuck should i stick with it?|
If you keep the Clarkson chuck, cut a `washer` of thin flat plastic to fit inside the damping ring. I used a cut out of the red plastic lid on Nescafe tins. Should you get that damping ring jammed up tight, it will be much easier to undo with the plastic interposed.
|Thread: Sealing boiler fittings|
You could also use Green Hermetite as a gooey sealer - it never sets so easy to unscrew fittings. Do Not use Red version - it sets solid and hard.
|Thread: Don't assume the obvious|
|Bogs, you must be having a laugh - do you seriously believe that any one in the print trade ever proof - reads anything these days? It certainly doesn`t look like it, judging by all the errors/spelling mistakes and words badly split mid-syllable betyween lines. This is not a dig at DavidClark1 - ME/MEW are pretty good but "the daily rags" are the worst culprits.|
|Thread: Locomotive axle length- clearance between wheels and axle boxes|
|I remember the West Countrys on down trains from Brighton, stopping at "Portslade & West Hove" station when Iwas a kid. Did they clonk, some of them.|
|Thread: Tearing hair out with disc sander|
|Piador is dead, I believe.|
|Thread: Explanation of job 'Engineers Driller'|
|Try enquiring at Science Museum and any Industry museums.|
|Thread: Milling drawbar|
|Re Dusty`s post today. My milling chuck doesnt work loose as I use the drawbar to hold it secure However, on occasion, it has stuck tight but with my new drawbar as previously described, it is no problem to remove. I have used the tang - ended tailstock drilling chuck in the mill spindle to drill holes and its come down. Ido clean my tapers internal and external. I use a piece of soft cotton cloth to draw through, like rifle barrel cleaning.|
Its well known taht a 2MT will part company under a milling load. I have had a 2MT tailsock chuck in mill for drilling holes + thats come loose. Mill or drill chucks just want jamming in by hand and drawbar gently tightened to prevent disasters. I find that Clarkson chuck some times gets stuck fast, possibly when using big (5/8") endmill or slotdrill, ss needing my type of drawbar to shove the tapers apart. BTW, I dont claim originality for it, I read a description of this somewhere - just passing on my knowledge.
|Thread: Myford Connoisseur Lathe|
|I believe that SMEE used to have a Myford on loan to them for their MEX stand but M now gone, so what now? Presumably a member will bring his along.|
|Thread: Milling drawbar|
I used BMS round bar, NOT Silver Steel for my drawbar. Sil. St. not necessary. Bottom end threaded to suit MT, top end same thread as for the MT. When finished, there is a nut pinned to very top end, along piece of large - AF Hexagon bar, part - bored out to fit over top of mill spindle and locked on to it with 3 grub screws fitted radially and top end is bored out to a clearnce size for drawbar. Another nut is fitted to draw inside the large hex. bar, so its trapped. When the top nut is turned clockwise, it screws thro. the trapped nut and bottom end screws in to MT, drawing male taper into female taper in spindle. Dont over tighten - just nip it up to secure it. When top nut is turned anti - clockwise, drawbar unscrews thro. trapped nut and from MT. The trapped nut wants to stay put and rise up with the unscrewing of the drawbar from theMT but its trapped and cannot move vertically thus preventing drawbar from moving vertically. Something has to give and its theMT shoved down, breaking its grip. Is this now all clear? Hope it helps.
Look up "Milling collet arbor jammed in milling machine" of 4 June 2011, in Forums.
Agree with JasonB, regarding make your own drawbar but Paul should go one better and copy my previous post describing the trapped nut which forces the MT apart gently instead of a hammer/brute force, wrecking bearings in the process.
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