Here is a list of all the postings DMB has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Town Bent Engineering Rotary Table|
I believe Town Bent Engrg. ceased trading some years ago. I have their Horiz/Vert. mill.
Very good little mill. They had a trade stand at an ME exhibition some years ago, about 20-25 years ago, I think.
|Thread: Cylinder Ports|
I understood that the way to do this job is to file/mill a flat on the edge of the bore and drill "up" the slope in the direction of the bottom of the `trench` (port). LBSC and Martin Evans recommended this method and possibly, a good many more designers would have done likewise.
The cyl. block set up in a drill vice at an angle and `sighted`.
|Thread: How NOT to tap a hole|
I seem to remember we were given oil at school to tap mild steel.
|Thread: Slitting saw runout|
Have looked at the American site, Martindale.com and on page 9, they show piccie of support washers, hardened, precision ground. Bottom of page 13 they say that in absence of a drive key, the support washers do the driving. The washers are similar to those used for grinding wheels, but I suggest that no -one tries to use these on grinding wheels - they are not identical. Hope above explains how the makers intend use of their products.
|Thread: Drill Sharpening Jigs - Advice please.|
As a matter of interest, where are Guhring brand drills made? Anyone know?
|Thread: hardening and tempering|
I seem to remember seeing on this forum or perhaps it was madmodders, something was said about no need to heat carbon steel to a full red heat and quench to harden, preparatory to tempering. The recommendation as I remember, was to heat to a colour indicating a higher temp than the tempering colour, quench, clean up then re-heat to actual tempering colour.
Can anyone please confirm this?
|Thread: Preventing Rusting in Garage|
Ivy has been encouraged to grow over the roof and South wall as its ever-green, it gives year-round protection from the sun down here in southern England, thus preventing those fast temp. rises.
Also got a max and min thermometer and a hygrometer in shed to tell me whats going on.
I should add that there is along sheet of thin plastic over bench which I just peel back to do work @ bench. I never seem to need use of oil-filled radiator, tubular heater and dehumidifier which all live in workshop.
Workshop is 10ft x 8ft apex roofed wooden shed, completely covered in roofing felt and sandwiched bubble wrap on roof. Inside, roof lined with 2" polystyrene sheets. Walls covered in 3-ply plywood and cavities stuffed with glass wool sold for house roof insulation. Even the door got same treatment. Conccrete floor painted with black anti-damp jollop, layer of hardboard then 2 thicknesses of redundant floor tiles from house.
My heavy Fobco Star bench drill and mill both wear plastic sandbag "hats." Further bags on drill table and each end mill table. Myford has original plastic cover. Mill chiptray has home-made box of 4 bayonet fittings wired in series and 4 x 60 w Edison bulbs which just glow on a total of 15W, this being on 10 months of the year. This wet Summer, its stayed on. This is all I have to stop rusting.
|Thread: Silver or Stainless?|
If anyone wants some copper sulphate, just put the 2 words into google + you will find several suppliers. I once obtained some by mail order for testing as recommended in this thread and Ialso use it for coating steel b4 marking out.
|Thread: Taps & Dies|
No I dont think it a daft question; we all have to learn everything in life at sometime. I just think I am one of the lucky older ones who were trained in basic metalwork (and woodwork) at school.
Taps are produced in Taper, Second and Plug types, each size.
The taper should be used first, the taper giving an easy lead-in to the hole to be threaded.The Second is what it says, used second, to cut a full depth thread throughout a straight - through hole. Only use a Plug to cut a full - depth thread right down to the bottom of a blind hole.
Depending upon what the threaded hole is for, I try to avoid tapping blind holes like the plague, since you run into trouble with swarf collecting in the bottom of the hole ahead of the tap. Usual advice as a cure for this is to bung up hole with grease first so tap forces it out along with swarf. I have not tried this. Sometime you have to tap a blind hole like say for studs in a cylinder block.
Hope above helps.
|Thread: Honey pump|
Just a thought, there is what is known as `Catering Grade` of Stainless also known I think as `316` Grade. Maybe a good idea to stick to this. I think same principle applies to plastics but am unable to offer any help on that.
PS luvly stuff! Use it as a cold medicine - any ol` excuse will do!
|Thread: Centre punch size|
Like JasonB said,dot punch lightly first, check its spot on then use centre punch with a slightly heavier bump with a small hammer. Note, you dont need to hit it hard and create a huge bomb crator and when using the dot punch, if its not exactly where it should be, lean punch over at an angle, pointing in the direction that the punch mark needs to be moved and give it a very light tap, check re-positioning OK then hold upright and give it a harder tap.
|Thread: Hacksaw blade tension|
I have also coloured the tops of the flutes of all drills and taps and a dab of colour on all dies, same side as size stamping. Funnily enough, my Metric gear has been coloured red same as you did. BA =white. ME32T=blue band. ME 40T=blue and yellow bands.
BSW=orange band. BSF =red and yellow bands. Brass 26T = yellow band.
Metric drills=red. No. series=green. Letter series= yellow. Fraction series unmarked.
When I get around to it, I will colour my Metric endmills and slotcutters red, leaving Imperial sizes unmarked.
Many moons ago, drills came chemically(?) blued with a silvery band on the shank where the size was clearly stamped. Now, metric drills come all over matt black, badly or illegibly stamped with sizes if stamped at all. Have the beancounters banned "quality"?
My back entrance gate, outhouse both have coloured padlocks, together with the 2 on my workshop door, all with matching coloured keys. So much quicker and more convenient.
Re my prev. post about colouring sawblades and frames. Not original, just a follow-on from school metalwork days where all the handle ends of files were coloured according to type, e.g., I believe all smooth cut files were painted white. Think Mr Stevens used blue green and red for other cuts. I break up sets of allen keys and spanners and keep on/near the mill only those spanners and allen keys which fit said mill, colouring them all blue same as mill. Saves an awful lot of frustration trying to find misplaced tools on one or other maches/benches.
I had a tubular hacksaw frame years ago and really liked the comfortable pistol grip. However, I just left it tensioned (and one blade for all jobs!) Over time, the whole eggshell thin alli handle gradually bent, so that I kept tightening it up just a bit more till no more washers could fit under the wing nut. I will personally throttle any neighbour who chucks their hacksaw at my cat, John Stephenson.
I now have a collection of hacksaw and junior hacksaw frames, each holding blades of different TPI. I use the little car touch-up paint tubes to mark all sorts of things, in this case, one end of every blade has a dab of colour indicating its TPI. The painted end of all blades is at the back of the teeth, nearest the pistol grip handle, when correctly fitted.
Frames are marked Yellow for use on Brass and other non-ferrous jobs and unmarked ofr ferrous work.
I dont use the bent wire type junior hacksaw frame, only the type with a knurled tensioning screw next to the handle. Again, a yellow frame one for non-ferrous.
Any good using jollop sold for cleaing muck off car engines? I believe its actually called, "Gunk"
I`m uncertain about your remark that your welder used to "eat" 15A fuses. Does this mean that you now use 3/16" nails in place of fuses? If so, be careful about fires - a fuse is meant to protect the wiring circuit from overheating. Why cant you tap into the cooker circuit? Only thing is, dont try using cooker and welder at same time!
|Thread: LMS Whistles|
I well remember the hooter type whistle from when I was young - very deep sound.
I think that you need a considerably longer tube to make that deep note - look at musical instruments that rely on a blast of air. Try to read up LBSC`s instructions for whistle making. I can tell you that he said to keep the end open with a tight fitting piston on a rod protruding from the end of the pipe, so that you can adjust the effective length to get the desired sound. You might also do well to test on steam, not compressed air.
One reason why David can pack a lot into his day is that he works from home and doesnt waste 1-3 hours a day getting ot and from work!
I would like to see larger photos in MEW instead of some which are little more than thumbprints. If piccie is big enough, I can view the `blobs and gadgets` on the mill or in the background. Its surprising what ideas one can get from how others have arranged a part of their workshop.
Still like a pig in muck even after 50 years when ME arrives and more recently, MEW.
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.