Here is a list of all the postings DMB has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Machinery's Handbook|
Doc. flattening or doorstop!
|Thread: A few Thou Under?|
Read a previous one under "General Questions" and "Threading and the Tables", see 'Hopper's posting on 31/3/2020@23:53:33. I think this about as good advice as any. Note that all threads should ride on the flanks and not interfere with root/crest. Soft metals will be squashed/deformed rather than cutting cleanly and some of the 'spare' metal could choke up the root/crest void, making things a bit tight, hence the 'extra' 5 thou clearance As an example,I have just turned down1/4" brass rod (all I had suitable) to 3/16" and put a 2BA die down it. Too tight, boy did it squeal! General rule of thumb, if metal makes a loud noise, something not right - investigate and correct, which of course I didn't!
Note, .6403 x Pitch applies to BSW/BSF/BRASS26T/ME32/40/60TPI, but I think ME60T is no longer in use. Metric, BA, Unified have thread depths and flank angles to different to that of the Whitworth 'group'.
Edited By DMB on 02/04/2020 22:13:35
|Thread: Model Engineers' Workshop and Coronavirus|
I think poor old PM had a bit more to cope with, like his ME offices warmed up a bit with an incendiary!
Did you get a manual? If so, consult it. It may well list all wheel configurations for threads and feeds. Assuming change wheels rather than gearbox, use largest wheel available on leadscrew. You need a huge gear reduction to get a very low leadscrew speed and thus, a fine feed. I'm not au fait with Warco lathes but if all else fails, ask makers for help/advice. Have found owner, Roger Warren a pleasant and helpful chap to deal with.
Edited By DMB on 30/03/2020 23:07:38
Edited By DMB on 30/03/2020 23:08:28
Edited By DMB on 30/03/2020 23:09:06
Dont give a bugger how they do it as long as my pensions continue to arrive every month. The greedy lot have already creamed off their 'share' of my money, so one of my remaining bucket list items is to live long enough to draw out in pension a darn sight more than I actually paid in!
|Thread: Myford Super 7 tailstock taper turning adjustment|
An old idea I've seen in a book is to put the faceplate on with both head - and tail - stock centres in. Use centres to hold a bar of metal by the hole in it at one end and swivel bar by hand around in front of the faceplate like a clock face and minute hand. Note varying space, if any, between outer end of bar and faceplate. This magnifies any discrepancy. Not tried it on my Myford or the fb Drummond I had previously, just what I saw in a book.
Only a few weeks ago here in Brighton, my small cheapo barometer showing very low readings every few days and rising a bit in between. One occasion, it went to 945 lowest I've ever seen but dont know how accurate my baro is, at least it gives a sort of ball park idea of what's going on.
|Thread: New design of mains plug?|
In my workshop, all the power sockets are on a ring circuit from a main switch in the shed. Lighting is from the same main switch box but arranged as a radial down either side of shed. All individual items are always at least switched off at the plug, but the Newton Tesla vfd for the Myford is unplugged until wanted to use, so as to be sure of protecting expensive kit. Special close up led lighting on mill supplied by dodgy looking wallwart transformer plug also only plugged in when needed to prevent fire. Only heating left switched on, in use 24/7.
If I go out or going to bed, most items in the house switched off at the plug, not left on standby like I understand people do with their TV. Of course, all but the freezer and fridge get the plugs pulled during thunderstorms, including workshop power. Reduces number of burnt out appliances if struck. Too bad about the hardwireds, Insurance claim for them.
What does it matter if UK does house wiring differently to the rest of the world? It works and seems safe enough. Next time you go to France, take a look at their grid pylons, totally diff. design to ours but they work. Just more than one way of skinning the moggy.
|Thread: Motor Starters|
Seeing the VFD thread by Steviegtr, I'm reminded of the time when I wanted help wiring a simple starter for my 1PH mill motor. This was small green and red push buttons and a big red mushroom head emergency off button. Yellow top of box, black lower half.
Two options, an expensive one in UK or identical el cheapo model on internet from the east. I went for the latter, with of course, no instructions and I couldn't figure out how to wire it, so appealed for help on here. Several answers including look at instructions supplied with UK version.
I tried both, they were different circuits for apparently the same switch. The UK version wiring diagram didn't work, meaning the Chinese makers had built the innards differently for some reason. The other circuit supplied by another reply works perfectly.
I dont feel it necessary to have VFD on the mill but I have it on the myford. 'Plug n play' type from Newton -Tesla. Highly recommended, trouble free, excellent.
Edited By DMB on 25/03/2020 09:04:53
|Thread: Fine Gauze|
Tim, do you mean a piece of figlass thread poked thro' the holes?
Speedy, well done!, good clear instructions like LBSC. Got any more good loco build tips?
Come on, spill the beans as the great man used to say.
|Thread: How are your clubs responding to Coronavirus|
Rhubarb doing well in my back garden, if anyone needs help to clear their bog roll stockpile........
|Thread: Can anyone help me?!|
What sort of saw? Engineers hacksaw, presumably but could be a jewellers, coping or other type? Can you describe it? This applies to all queries; give as much info as possible and/or photo, to boost possible number of responses. I mean this to be helpful, not critical.
Edited By DMB on 14/03/2020 21:39:47
Edited By DMB on 14/03/2020 21:41:04
|Thread: Tool info|
Bugger me! It actually says, "Made in GB"
|Thread: Old model engineer magazines|
OK, you can't just smack bound Vols down on the copier but there are one or two ways around this. Years ago when I was trying to get back issues to see what had gone before, especially with the likes of Duplex, Jim Radford, LBSC etc, I acquired loose copies in complete vols. so I could copy, with the intention of later disposal. Guess what? "later" has still not arrived! The other idea was to use some sort of clamp as a third hand to hold a bound vol. open while I used my tablet to copy the pages of interest. This is very slow but could be useful with club library vols. to save cost of buying and subsequent storage, but not really followed it up. Did experiment at home with the few bound Vols that I have. Most very old vols seem to be bound, suggesting that loosies were dumped.
I would still like to obtain complete vols prior to 1925, if anyone has them and wants to dispose of same. Anyone able/willing to help, please?
|Thread: Tooling Choices, identification & WM290 Feed Question|
Thank you for your how to post above. Will make a note of it for future use.
|Thread: Ebay Chancers|
Could, most likely is, a dodgy advert, note mis-selling of Pendle.
|Thread: DONCASTER SHOW|
"Wrong dates" almost certainly a scam to clear out ur bank a/c. A lot of scams rely on impulsive action by people who fail to take their time, study and think about what they see.
|Thread: A Warning|
Its :- Dirty
Edited By DMB on 15/02/2020 21:53:26
|Thread: Slideway locking screw bottoms out|
I would think that all there is, is a drilled and tapped hole. Why would the maker create a cavity at the bottom and what for? Cannot think of any logical reason for an apparently useless cavity. Suggest you go ahead with making a brass slug and follow it up with the locking handle. Should work OK, at least I hope so. Just seems like an omission during assembly. Good luck, hope all goes well.
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