Here is a list of all the postings DMB has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Gandalf is broken|
Chuck it away n get a noo one
|Thread: Is Model Engineering in Decline|
I am a Brighton club member, a thriving club. We have a member so young (11 or 12) that a condition of his membership is to be accompanied by a parent. There are a further 7 of various ages below 18. On the other hand, one member keeps reminding everyone that he will be 90 next year.
Worthing club, of which I am also a long standing member, has no under 18s that I am aware of. This being inspite of running council sponsored model making courses for the school ages during the summer hols. Hopefully, the memory will stick and some will take up the hobby in later years, perhaps when the hormones recede!
If the above is typical the most other clubs will either have no youngsters or several, but it's a start. This sort of discussion has been going on for years and will no doubt continue.
|Thread: Anyone know about buying freehold to a house in the north|
Agree with Andy, grab the opportunity which will give you full control over the property. Means that you can get repairs carried out at a price chosen by you, not exorbitant maintenance charges. Also alterations to suit you but maybe subject to planning law.
Great chance for your future. Sorry, cannot advise on the cost quoted but if it was me, I'd be inclined to take up the offer
Very good luck,
|Thread: 31/2 gauge Lion assembly problem|
Yet another drawing ballsup.
|Thread: High Paint Costs|
Dont blame you, that price seems so ridiculous that one could assume it's a pricing error. Let em keep it for ornamentation in the shop! Ha,ha.
Robbie Dyas probably not cheapest source.......
I have answered the Club newsletter Editor's request for 'filler' to help keep it going by trying to write something for each issue. So far so good. Discovered the side effect is that it keeps me on my toes finding a subject for the next issue but at least those roundtoits are getting finished off so I can write about them and perhaps add a photo or 2. So far, most subjects have embraced my take on making accessories for the mill or lathe. Things like how I made an led ring light to fit above the vert. mill chuck to give shadow free illumination. Ketan supplied 3 axis DRO about 7 years ago, soon have it fitted and working! Currently working on 2 different styles of work stops for the mill vice. As I have more than one, I'm doing types that attach to the table rather than the vice(s). Another idea is to do a full article on a numeral stamping jig for machinery dials using a simple design that doesn't involve too much time to make and is flexible enough to suit diff. dias. and widths of ring. Have already made and used such jig but experience suggests a number of improvements. Am looking forward to getting article in mag.
|Thread: Plinth size?|
I am not very clever with this sort of thing but a cereal packet cardboard mockup of what you think might fill the bill, always helps decisions. If I were doing this, I would start by making the plate first as suggested above, then arrange it in a pleasing position, then set about making the cardboard test piece allowing at least an inch, perhaps one and a half inches front and rear of fuselage, hull or whatever the model is and see what that looks like. Trim some off or sellotape a bit more card on til I was happy with it. Similarly with the other 2 sides, adjusting sizes until I was happy with the whole arrangement. Next, find piece of wood to replace cardboard. If its light coloured, a damn good sanding and a couple of coats of good varnish on the wood and the metal plate to prevent tarnishing. Maybe use 2 or 3 thinner pieces of wood of slightly different footprint glued together creating a stepped effect would enhance the appearance of the plinth. Have you thought about a glass or perspex case for dust exclusion? Good luck with project and give us a piccy or 2 of results.
|Thread: diameter calculation|
I prefer Nick's answer. Why 3 diff?
|Thread: Metrication of models|
"Utter drivel" What a damn insult. When car sizes are quoted in umpteen thousands of mm, that is the rubbish /abuse of metric. How the hell can that be visualised? Only fit for comparing relative sizes of diff. makes and models, nothing else, like will it fit my garage?
Maybe more sensible to quote boards as 2.4m or go up to 2.5m, but not pig- headedly use 2400mm. Since when were they quoted as 96"?
At school we were subjected to that awful chant system of learning that 10mm = 1cm, 10cm =1 decimetre and so on but it was all a waste of time. We might as well have just been told about all the other divisions and their names and leave it at that. They don't seem to be in every day use.
To get back to strictly on topic, it would seem best to leave all the published designs alone, complete with their myriad errors and start afresh with new designs only in pure metric, not a bastardised metric conversion of Imperial measurements.
I have seen, e.g., somewhere on the Internet, a list of errors with Sweat Pea design and I understand other designs have received similar treatment. Just imagine re-hashing the design into metric and rounding the results to look nicer. Think of all the new errors that could arise.
|Thread: Question from a customer|
Always blowdown to try and get rid of muck inside then leave bd valve open til next steam up. Do it every time and it will become a habit to (a) blowdown regularly and (b)close bd b4 filling for a steam up.
Last week saw a 5"G loco blown down over a bucket. Hell of a lot of what looked just like horticultural silver sand left in bucket, maybe 2/3 dessert spoons sort of quantity, far too much to leave in there solidifying on top of the foundation ring, the lowest point.
|Thread: Metrication of models|
This is the stupidity, 8ft long board easily visualised but if "they" go and "metricate" that to 2,400mm or even worse, 2,440 or 2,450, that would be awful. Just like the 19ft new car quoted as being 57,912mm long! I would like to see my restricted to less than 1m, then go on to use say 1.4m or 2.9m or whatever, applicable to all industries, "no ifs, no buts."
Bandersnatch, I do know better, put it down to tiredness error,
I now know you read it!
Seriously, what a hideous system of value measurement. I think it was because so many everyday items had such a low price, e.g., loaf of bread one old penny. Blame inflation for making system look so outdated. Remember one of my secondary school teachers saying that this age would go down in history as the age of change just for the sake of it. He did appear to be nearing the end of his career. I find it amazing how quickly I adapted to the then new decimal currency but still see, say 1.5mm and automatically try to convert it to 60 thou as an approximate equivalent to be able to visualise that size. Soooo annoying.
Lease EU and revert back to Imperial? I hope not. We will probably become more aligned with USA for trade, using Imp for some types of business and metric to trade with the rest of the world. Just wish Parliament would obey a referendum result instead of keep trying to kick it around til they lose it. What's the point of having one if MPs want to ignore it? Get it sorted, move on and complete the metrication process which has also gone off at half- cock. Let's have some real progress and leave us old codgers to continue playing about with BA and BSF! Sod it, I'm tired, it's late, cat out on nightly prowl and I'm off to bed.
Edited By DMB on 05/10/2019 23:28:34
The world moves on at what seems like an exhaustingly quicker pace. Or am I really slowing up at an alarming rate? Ha, ha!
All of you older forumites have experienced the tsunami of modern technology, same as me and some have picked up the baton and run with it faster than others. I look at things and think, can I make good use of this or that, or not? E.g., much better to have mobile in pocket than have to walk 1/2 mile to BT phone box and then find it smashed up and out of order. I have taken on board small things like led ring light for vert. mill, electronic rev counter for mill, lathe, bench drill. Dro s for mill. VFD on lathe. Mitutoyo elec. calipers. I just about cope with 'puters sometimes with a little help from my professional programmer nephew but to try to use it for 3D modelling is a step too far. While I would be struggling to master that, I would be losing a lot of time to do other things and life is rapidly getting shorter! Don't tell me that it would eventually save me a lot of time. I cannot see any great use for it for me. Mechanical stops and Dro s are perhaps a sort of halfway house but which I can make immediate good use of.
It all depends upon what you want to do.
I sit here after a hard day at the track, chuckling at the fresh can of worms I've opened, to fit alongside JA's!
I am the " wrong" side of 70 but feel comfortable with Imp. or metric, since I had both to contend with at school. At the time, couldn't see the point of this new - fangled decimal system except in Science lessons where it proved to be SOOOO much easier to use.
Duo-decimal currency, "2 farthings = a ha'penny, 2 ha'pennies = a Bob, sorry 1 shilling" and so on.
As mentioned above, rods, poles, perches, chains, quarts, 8 pints = 1 gallon, 112 lbs = 1 cwt. What a load of old medieval crap that belongs in some countryside museum. Thank goodness it's all going. I am now however, very grateful to my school for teaching me both systems so I can easily use which I choose. It's simply so lovely to just shift a decimal point when doing mental arithmetic. Still difficult to visualise some things, e.g., I have seen pictures of new cars dimensioned in thousands of mm! What you absolutely must not do is try to convert due to the extremely awkward equivalents. Must choose and stick to the one system throughout a whole build project. Enough drawing errors without an exponential increase caused by conversions followed by rounding off dimensions.
Edited By DMB on 05/10/2019 22:47:56
Re JA's comments under his small screws thread.
I think that as older model engineers give up the hobby and younger ones come along, they will bring their knowledge with them. They will only have been taught metric everything at school so old imperial designs will rapidly decline in demand as the youngsters will not understand them. Too much of a learning curve.
I envisage that many castings in the comprehensive sets will become unavailable due to the total cost. Main demand will be for loco wheels and flywheels since they are a pattern making nightmare and a huge amount of work to hack out of the solid.
On the other hand, a relatively cheap block of cast iron can easily be butchered in the mill to create inside cylinders. Maybe chimney and dome cover will still be wanted to cut the amount of machining but horns and axle boxes, even frame stretchers and motion plates can easily be fabricated. As another example, the bracket supporting Sweet Pea reverser stand can be quickly knocked up from offcuts/scraps with a welder. Point is, only items involving huge amounts of machining will be in demand for a casting.
Younger modellers will naturally go for metric threads. So easy, 6mm threaded hole? easy! use 5mm tapdrill. Think of all the complication of a say, BA thread and a number size tapdrill. Then there are all the other threads and sizes, all with their special series of tapdrills. If expensive sets of everything are not bought, you need to look at the drawings and use the American approach, Bill of Materials, but applied to specified threads and their tapdrills then go and source only those needed. What a performance!
|Thread: M&W rules now better...|
I once used a long rule to mark out my loco frames starting from the 1 inch division as I felt that the end of the rule could not be relied upon. Guess what? All went OK until I finished marking out, each time compensating for the "lost inch." On checking it all again, still seemed OK. After drilling all the holes and enlarging the big hole at the front end for the outside cylinder exhaust pipe, I discovered it was 1 inch adrift! Bugger! Then I thought, if patched frames were good enough for that centre of engineering excellence in Swindon (and no doubt elsewhere), then it's got to be good enough for me. I ended up with 2 large adjacent holes. So beware!
|Thread: Boiler build abandoned !|
If you try making a new boiler as you said, choose a small one to save money on cost of (a) copper, (b)silver solder, bearing in mind that the bigger the boiler so the longer each joint will be.
On a more positive note, it sounds like you're nearly there with the current one. Take on board comments by others above and next attempt, enlist supervision by a known boiler maker in your club.
Good luck and hope you are successful very soon.You are gaining knowledge and experience even with your troubles.
|Thread: Rip-Off? Don't judge by web domains.|
Wow! Big price "reduction" from £46 to £16, quite a fair old "come on"
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.