Here is a list of all the postings DMB has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: New-style cover finish|
Very unhappy customer. I might be getting on a bit but I'm amenable to change but only if its any good. Don't see any benefit to me with this change, so what's in it for them?
Only and inconvenient solution is to make two opposing piles with edges and the spines outward, so that they hold each other in place. Grrrr!
|Thread: Oil can (again)|
Being curious/nosey, what's that contraption mounted on a board behind the home made oilcan?
Guy Lautard once wrote about oilcan probs and how he solved them. He bought a new grease gun and modified it. Sorry, but cannot now remember in which of his books that it appeared.
So do I!
|Thread: New-style cover finish|
First thoughts were, there we go again, since the ultra shiny covers were introduced several years ago. Such a fuss was made and the publisher at that time reverted to their previous semi gloss finish. Wonder why it is used? Surely not as another "buy me" gimmick on WH Smith's shelves?
Another of my subscriptions comes sealed (well and truly!) in a paper envelope, but it's always (every month) glued to the inside of the envelope! Grrrr!
|Thread: This trolley/cart could be useful|
Agreed, appears to be potentially very useful.
Pity about spelling error but that seems to be very common these days.
|Thread: Spindle depth stop|
Have to agree with JasonB on this. Need to assess the degree of accuracy required for the job and simple careful measuring with a rule, hacksaw and face cut end, will do, in this instance.
|Thread: Tools needed to build a 3 1/2in gauge Tich|
Many years ago, I acquired an old flat bed Drummond, badly worn. Used it for a bit, sold it locally and buyer had fellow club member, ex school metalwork teacher help him and made new mandrel bearings for it.
For a young beginner not yet working earning money to buy items listed above, then what I suggested will get newbie started, perhaps with a second hand bench vice on an old table in shed or back of dad's garage.
My local club has lathe small bench drill hefty vice on sturdy bench and massive hacksaw machine, bench toolgrinder, all used by very keen beginner who is there almost every Saturday, beavering away.
Assuming funds short,l ook at the drawings, make a list of taps and dies needed for any threads. Ascertain tapping drill sizes for only the required taps. Don't buy sets as you will probably never use some sizes. Just go to a supplier like Tracy tools to buy just what you need, including only the size of diestocks and tap wrenches to fit. The foregoing is probably the cheapest way of acquiring only the tools needed. Don't buy second hand as they are all cutters and likely to be blunt, you probably have no means of sharpening them and small diameter taps could snap in the work. I suggest you take care with taps smaller than 1/8" diameter and use the very next larger tapping drill size to avoid overloading tap and breaking it. Resulting thread still has similar strength. Join a local club, choose one with a lathe in their workshop and check if someone will be willing to teach you how to use it and make the parts needing turning, boring, drilling. Be aware that your project will take sometime and money to complete but do enjoy the journey and very good luck.
Hopefully, others on here will offer their advice and words of wisdom.
It is this week, a hundred years ago, that the designer of your project started writing in Model Engineer.
Edited By DMB on 06/05/2022 08:10:27
|Thread: Workshop warming|
So the old chestnut is back, albeit in slightly different form.
1 To keep workshop even slightly warm-ish, you need to use something that's on 24/7, in my opinion (and experience.) Having said that, there is also a timer in circuit, allowing a switch off for a few hours in the warmest part of the day. This being adjusted according to season.
Even a garage can be insulated, the initial cost being recovered in the saving of actual heat.
If heater(s) connected via a thermostat to limit rise in temperature, that should help to make running cost a bit more economical.
Every large machine, e.g., lathe, mill, etc., are covered when not in use, covers will trap heat rising from the heater in the drip tray. Any escaping heat will gently warm the rest of the workshop.
My system works well for me in the "Sunny Sarf" (Sussex) and it hasn't bankrupted me yet.
|Thread: Work Holding for Facing|
Yet another problem not mentioned by previous posters here. Topslides are set up to face work slightly concave. If work is faced across the diameter of a faceplate, it may well not end up dead flat.
Might be best to rough out the work in 4jaw as described above, in order to get the bulk of metal removal done quickly then transfer it to mill table, using low profile clamps on the edges, as per Harold Halls.
Edited By DMB on 24/04/2022 22:03:21
|Thread: Ambiguous words|
Liers favourite: Category/Categorically deny
"There is no Evidence" to support/show
Sorry, felt I needed to indicate the context of useage
Edited By DMB on 22/04/2022 08:23:20
|Thread: Sigh, practicing a skill I would rather not need|
My take on this caper -
1. I never buy 2 nd hand taps ( or drills) Only new, sharper.
2 Always use methods of guidance as outlined above by others.
3 Try to avoid tapping blind holes, only through holes.
4. If blind hole tapping unavoidable, don't use grease or any kind of tapping sludge, however good it's supposed to be. Only use thin oil. Much easier to wash out swarf from the bottom of the hole with say, paraffin.
5. If in any doubt, use next larger diameter tapping drill.
6. Consult a reputable drill and tap guide table and don't use the smallest drill sizes, look at the percentage clearances. Not normally necessary to go beyond 70-75%. Tight clearances put a lot of extra torque strain on the tap for very little gain in thread stripping resistance.
6. Frequently remove tap and clear out swarf then start again. Smaller the diameter, the more important it is, to avoid swarf compaction at the bottom of the hole. Compaction could break tap and certainly make it harder to remove said swarf.
Hope my notes prove useful to the OP and anyone else in difficulty.
Edited By DMB on 17/04/2022 22:17:36
|Thread: 4 facet drill grinding|
Somewhere, along time ago, so can't remember where, I saw a list of drill point angles specifically to suit subject, say, Ali, wood, plastic, etc. The usual 118° was quoted as a general purpose, do anything reasonably well. So it seems that those with the suitable grinding jigs could sharpen one or more to a better angle for a special job. Drilling 'awkward' phos. bronze comes to mind. Any 'specials' should of course, be stored and marked, separately.
Still a good idea to drill a big hole in umpteen size stages to lessen heat generation which will affect accuracy. I mention this because I've seen a remark about a large drill with 4facets will do the job in one go. Maybe, but it will still generate a lot of heat.
I do know that if one electrical item fails in a series circuit it works like a switch, whole circuit goes dead. Does it matter in my circumstances? No, because I go into the workshop most days so not many hours with heat off on one machine only. It will still be 'enjoying' the benefit of residual warmth trapped under the plastic covers. Even then, there is a certain amount of warmth in the general workshop atmosphere from the other heater, which is a tubular one, via thermostat and timer. Only off for about a third of the day. It's on Myford drip tray at the back and lathe has plastic cover. Escaping heat warms the rest of the workshop. Only 10x 8ft, so not a very large volume to keep warm. Most of the items, bench, drill, two mills, lathe, all covered against falling dew or even rain from roof, should itt spring a leak. I'm now even growing hedging to keep sun off shed walls to try and reduce temperature rises. There is a plan to put a further thick layer of continuous insulation in the roof apex soon, which will hold back heat transmission in from sun, out due to colder outside temps. It will be a blanket of white recycled plastic. Got a lot left on the £17 roll. Used it to cover loft traphatch in the house, surprised at the difference that it made. BnQ earlier this year.
Edited By DMB on 14/04/2022 15:51:27
My findings over a long period of time, are that sheds don't normally have waterproof wall covering, only the roof. So I have cut large squares of felt nailed and glued to the walls and door so whole outside is waterproofed, which drastically cuts the damp. Insides of the walls and roof insulated to keep cold out, warmth in. Constant low heat stops large changes of temperature and air holds any moisture instead of dumping water content on metal objects. Not been a fortune in outlay but worth it to avoid spoiling tools, machinery, work in progress projects. OK, so some heat escapes when door opened to get in or out but warmer air takes its moisture with it. I have little rust problem. Some tools and materials kept in the house. I use plastic boxes to store small tools and pieces of steel with VPI paper. Tinplate tins and boxes only used to store brass, copper ali, stainless. I have acquired a GHT bending rolls which is very shiny, wonder if it's made from stainless? It's stored in a small metal case with plenty of VPI paper, just in case....
Small hardware shops still stock old type bulbs.
My box, see above, has one side open with the edges about an inch above the tops of the bulbs, to protect them from breakage. Bottom end also recessed to avoid exposure of the (insulated) wiring arrangement.
When bulb supply runs out, may well get small heater. They're made for pianos, would you believe? About (15W?) Aquarium s, Vivarium s, plants as in greenhouses, soil heaters. Just need to look around to gain knowledge of different designs and wattages.
Still use, on occasional loft visits, huge 150W lamp, spreads a lot of light around for short while in use. When it busts, I'll find something else. Case of using up what I have.
I am using Android, have got an app called Barometer. Just checked and it's saying it's 92.9% humidity outside. Nearly an hour ago it was 98. something. This gives me a rough idea how 'bad' the damp atmosphere is outside, down here on the South coast, having had a fog/mist weather forecast this morning. At least it's giving an idea of surroundings so if a shed/ garage being used as a workshop, you have an idea of how much it's being affected by conditions outside. I have gentle heat on 24/7 most of the year. 4 off, 60W bulbs in brass battenholders, connected in series encased in a 3-ply box produce low light but importantly, low wattage heat. Wiring is protected against possible shock risk. Workshop entry routine, switch off heaters, switch off lights. Still use stock of new bulbs for reading indoors but when they get a bit tired, pension them off as workshop heaters. I believe that total wattage is around 15, so X 168/wk = just over 2.5 units a week, x 25p (+ VAT, =30 p) up to recently, =75p. Leccy now jumped to 45 p + (VAT = 54p), total now £1.35/wk. Still very low compared with all else that's going on. That's for one of my mills, under plastic shroud. Tubular heater back of myford drip tray, on thermost. Just large plastic bags over Dore-Westbury mill and Fobco drill and workbenches. Enough heat escapes to warm whole 10 X 8' wooden shed which is heavily insulated.
Edited By DMB on 13/04/2022 09:26:15
|Thread: Imperial v Metric Measures|
I am an old codger, iif you like, but at no time have I praised up Imperial v Metric. Just that I passed through school being taught both systems so I can now happily use either or a mix of both.
However, I think that it's more than time for a complete changeover and join the rest or at least, most, of the world. The other Luddite countries will have to get aroundtoit sooner or later.
If there was a complete change, then far less time would be wasted teaching the obsolescent Imperial system and at the same time make it illegal to quote conversions on milk bottles or saucepans or anything else.
|Thread: Cardboard Packaging ? A Cautionary Tale|
A "dry garage"??? My heated workshop has a humidity gauge on a high up shelf which shows a minimum of 50%, sometimes 55 or 60. I suggest, Phil, that you by a cheapo humidity gauge, which whilst not being accurate, will give you some idea of just how " dry". Put a sheet of ordinary newspaper on the bench for a few days and see what happens. (Don't use shiny paper that's had chinaclay rolled into the surface.)
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