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Member postings for DMB

Here is a list of all the postings DMB has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Use Chequer (Tread) Plate as Roofing Sheet?
03/08/2021 14:36:23

Ally is light but treadplate thick and heavy - are you sure about using it? Could you not use copper roofing sheet? Quite thin and light probably much lighter than treadplate.

Thread: ELLIOTT 10M SHAPING MACHINE
03/08/2021 14:28:57

Bernard, how can your machine be classed as metric with Imperial leadscrews? Sounds to me like a ballsup. If it was mine, I would change the dials to 125 divs to make for much easier working. I don't mind working in either system but not what I call half and half. Are the dials OEM? Surely not. No offence intended, just opinion on how to make life easier. John

Thread: Myford Gear Spacers
25/07/2021 22:30:05

Mike Poole,

I wonder when the spacers came in? Didn't even know they existed. My brand new Super7 (some years ago) didn't have them.

Seems a very good idea so I'll probably add it to the roundtoit list.

John

Thread: Bench grinder
22/07/2021 16:53:17

Thanks, Duncan, never thought of that solution. Will bear it in mind, should I ever have grinder trouble in future.

John

Thread: Keeping the workshop cool
22/07/2021 16:43:08

Early this week, up very early by birdlife and bathroom beckoning, so quick bite to eat and out to nice cool workshop. Around 10am, thought it was a little warm so looked at thermometer; 90°! Called it a day, back indoors for remainder of breakfast and do other jobs in house, where it was cooler for a time. Even the cat sleeps under the ceiling fan in the afternoon. Who'd have a fur coat this weather?

22/07/2021 16:36:50

Many, many years ago, I was in a state run school, taken over from the private sector and previously was a large country house. At some stage, an indoor swimming pool was added on with apex glass roof. So far, so good. The county council altered the swimming pool to another use. Guess what? A woodwork room! My god did it get hot and trying to shove a jackplane in there, phew! Eventually it became a classroom with desks and chairs. A new annex was built with a metalwork room one end and a woodwork room at the other separated by a coke fired boiler house in the middle for winter warmth. Much better after that awful swimming pool cum woodwork room. Those were the days, hammering hot metal from the forge and singing along to a transistor radio blaring "House of the rising sun" by The Animals.

Thread: Old lathe tools
19/07/2021 09:48:15

Bottom row, 7th from left, looks like a tailstock revolving centre, has ball race inside. It spins with the work, whereas the plain centres shown need lubrication when used.2nd from right, bottom row, looks like a half centre to allow end - turning/ facing of work. Big fat one, far right could be MT3? and 7th from right so thin, could be MT1 and the rest of the taper shanks probably MT2.4th from right appears to be a conversion sleeve with a tang on the tail end, possibly MT2 outer and MT1 internal taper. Same goes for 4th from left.

John

Thread: MEW Index updated to Issue 306 (August 2021)
19/07/2021 09:31:05

Hi David,

Thanks, that's going to be very useful. Saved for future. 

John

Edited By DMB on 19/07/2021 09:32:26

Thread: More security for the shed
10/07/2021 21:08:45

Your security will be compromised if you reveal all precautions on this forum or anywhere else on the internet. Just be careful what you reveal. I've thought about things revealed on TV by security organisations and police, fancy telling the world that? I expect that they take the view that something is in the public domain so not secret but by their actions they make sure everyone knows. Many of my security precautions have not been and never will be revealed. Keeping secrets is vital to maintaining security.

09/07/2021 22:17:24

Hi Dias,

There is a communal access path running between the back gardens, including mine. My back gate was a home welded robbie with 10mm vertical steel bars, so no footrests for climbing. Spacing too close to crawl through. Two metre high padlocked gate and wall topped with Pyracantha, commonly called Firethorn. White flowers just faded, red berries come in Autumn. Lots of tough woody spikes sharp as needles and about 20 - 25mm long. I call it nature's barbed wire! The upward extension of wall and gate with the added spiky bush were the result of weekly visits by some intruder who could easily get over the low wall as it was. Yes, weekly! as reported by a neighbour. He got 'dealt with' and had a hospital visit. Later found out he lived very close by and worked as a security guard! No idea why weekly intrusions unless casing the place for a break-in to workshop or house. Both securely locked of course. Never mind pinching Bridgeports, more likely hand held power tools which can be quickly disposed of in a car boot sale for cash. They have a need to monetise their I'll gotten gains ASAP before they get caught in possession. Try to keep such items upstairs somewhere in the house.

John

Thread: "footprint" of Dore Westbury
02/07/2021 11:52:53

Hi Rob,

My DW MK1 (all dims approx) has base approx 14.5" /37cm front to back and 20cm/8"wide. Cross slide / Y function, is 20cm/8" wide and moves 15cm/5.5" in and out from column.

X function/Table is 41cm/16.5" long. Travel, LH edges X to Y 10"/25.5cm. When table wound towards RH side to the extent of both LH edges level, the RH edges of X and Y are 21cm/8.25" apart. The table's RH edge to tip of handle is 20cm/10"

To sum up, from the RH side, extreme distance of handle tip is 40.5cm/16" from the RH edge of cross slide. You will of course need a bit more to accomodate your hand. On the LH side, space required will be min. 10"/25.5cm.

You will have to determine for yourself just how much "reasonable working clearance" amounts to.

Hope above makes sense and helpful. I think only certain items change for MK2 like table length and travel, but you may be able to check that on the lathes.co site.

Regards

John

Thread: Surface finish when turning.
29/06/2021 07:42:50

Robin,

Give this a try, round HSS bar held in toolholder square to the work, high - ish speed, slow hand feed. Cutter, grind flat 1/2 dia depth on the end and square to sides. Bottom 1/2 that now projects forward, grind 5° receding angle down, away from just touching the flat edge. Set new sharp edge at 45° to the vertical in toolholder.

Experience has shown mild steel swarf comes off in fine feathery stream and looks like an ultra fine version of the kitchen pan scouring "wire wool"pads. I found the finish on the work just has to be seen to be believed, shiny, smoooooth! Didn't use any lube, just dry turning.

Do try it and good luck!

John

Thread: Parting off help!
28/06/2021 15:41:27

MGF, not done it yet,

1. I dont seem to have any trouble with my HSS stock but perhaps because most was purchased a long time ago and also none from fleabay.

2. I have found that skimming the face of a metal bar and height adjusting by trial and error, eliminates the pip, no problem. Once the tool is working OK, lock the height adjuster screw then toolholder can be removed and replaced, pre- set, no further fiddling about. They were designed for such method.

3. Flimsy tools never worked for me, as previously stated, I end up with one part convex the other concave. Now only use 3/32" thick parting tool with success.

4. Probably have enough HSS in diff. sections to see me out so not really bothered about current availability. Once gave insert tools a trial. Not impressed but maybe because of the silly prices for a common lathe tool, I bought cheapo and was rewarded accordingly. HSS reigns supreme, IMO.

28/06/2021 08:45:43

Further to my previous post, there is a photo of my QCTP parting toolholder in my album. 3/32" x 1/2" blade. Setting of parting or any other tool is easy enough, just take light skim facing cut. Any pip will reveal just how off centre height. Always done that and not messed around with various devices available.

28/06/2021 08:05:59

mgi,

The very reason why I am planning to use the small steel plate on the side of the GHT toolpost, is so it can be taken off as necessary but refitted quickly.

I have an original Myford rear toolpost and a couple of small toolholders with very thin, bendy blades that create convex and concave surfaces, so all that lot put on one side. Have looked at websites for Arceuro, RDG, Chronos and Rotagrip (most likely of suppliers) but cannot find identical to what I now use, which has proved to be superior. It uses a clamp block with large tapers to match the main block, held by 3 Allen keys.

John

Edited By DMB on 28/06/2021 08:08:13

27/06/2021 22:24:48

I now use a QCTP and parting tool holder on my Super7 with a tool marked HSS 3/32 x 1/2 x 4 M2. Just fit holder to QCTP, loosen post, run carriage towards the chuck and gently press side of toolholder against chuck face to align it and tighten the toolpost. I run lathe at half normal turning speed for that diameter and metal, slow, steady feed and cutting oil. Mild steel comes off in concertina shaped ribbon swarf with a frying bacon sound. Perfection!

I do have a GHT casting for his rear parting toolpost. When I get a roundtoit, I will add a small steel plate to the LH side at the bottom to butt against the LH side of the cross slide for quick alignment. It's an idea I've seen somewhere. I plan to use the same parting blade horizontally as it is now, since it works OK, rather than 7° tilt. If I fit the rear t - p, it can stay on board, saving constant tool and holder changing.

Edited By DMB on 27/06/2021 22:27:31

Thread: dirty clutch trick
25/06/2021 17:12:14

Same principle used by Myfords on their tri - lever ML7. Three slack belts with one at a time tensioner by jockey pulley actuated by a lever, hence "tri-lever." They were the final drive to the mandrel. Good at the time but old hat now, thanks to VFD.

Thread: Dore-Westbury Mill
16/06/2021 20:04:00

Brian and Mike, thank you both for your replies. Mike, I will look in your album later.

I now have details of the vertical head - it weighs 35lb/16Kg. Made an old man puff a bit, holding it up and getting it in alignment to enter the T casting. Phew, hot in workshop today. The support arm which slides in the T casting, is 8 3/4"/22cm from the motor bracket end to under the head casting. I have taken certain measurements for my future use, e.g., base to top of column support casting is11.5"/30cm and the column is 14 3/4" /37.5cm, so if I want to raise the column and head to max. Safe height, allowing say 2" of column within its support casting, I need only measure the exposed part of the column to know if it's safe. Would only go to min. of 2" for drilling or light milling cuts.

I make the total weight 144lb/95.5Kg incl. a small 4 jaw chuck and not incl. a few locking handles. Someone on here recently guessed 1.5cwt, so not far out.

I hav made a drip tray to catch most swarf but joints not leak proof since I don't plan to swamp the work with floods of coolant. I cut a thin steel sheet to fit mill base close to the back plus several inches in front of the front of the base. It is long enough to cover the bench at either end of the table travel. I measured 35mm in from all sides and drew bend lines along all 4 sides, a line from where they cross, out to the corners of the sheet. These corner lines were cut with tin snips to allow approximately 30° bends. Cut corners bent over and hammered flat. Coat of paint, jobbie done! I'll see how I get on b4 I bore a big hole in the bench and tray to lower the column any further. Bending easy as sheet is thin was clamped with a g clamp each end to hold 2 very thick section steel bars with middle in bench vice and used a rubber mallet.

John

15/06/2021 20:16:12

Brian and old mart, thank you for your suggestions which I'll follow in due course.

This mill came from a recently deceased life long friend who said many years ago that I should save my pennies and buy what I need and get on with model engineering. You can spend your life making tools to make more tools and not get the ME - ing done. I therefore think that he bought, rather than made his mill. Very good workmanship by unknown builder but my pal was a capable model maker and won a medal for his loco at one ME exhibition. He would have been able to build the DW to a high standard.

I have so far made a drip tray and sat the mill on blocks of wood for extra column adjustment and as vibration absorption. Also rewired with red/green pushbutton NVR +E-stop. Next roundtoits likely to be laser positioning for the head alignment and DRO, might even push the boat out and have an all singing etc, type that collects all the data on one screen with hole positioning etc. I have the very basic individual DROs on my other mill. Dont plan to do CNC, it's rather beyond my education level, I struggle with 'puters and not much time left on this planet to learn, it will bite into modelmaking time!

John.

Thread: Don Young's 'Doncaster'
15/06/2021 19:52:38

Hi Peter,

Been looking at your detail photos and streuth! Your work appears to be of the standard set by Cherry Hill, Bill Carter, Peter Dupen and others. Very well done. May I say that detailed descriptions in the mag. or on the forum, of the methods of constructing items are of very great interest to me and doubtless many others. Keep up your excellent work, it's a great inspiration.

John

Edited By DMB on 15/06/2021 19:53:06

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