Here is a list of all the postings Clive Barker has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Overseas Subscription Not Being Delivered|
Thanks for your reply. Sorry it took me a long to answer.
Given the positive experience of other overseas subscribers I agree that the problem must be at my end. The fact that a batch came through could be the result of different packaging.
I am reluctant to cease my subscription - just not sure if the electronic option suits my purposes, but will think on it.
Happy New year to all,
I wonder if anyone else who receives overseas subscriptions has had problems:
For many years (about 20) all copies arrived safely even when the local overseas address changed. Then, from last year deliveries ceased. Since the subscription was a gift I didn't follow up the case until much later when I discovered that it had not expired. When it was followed up one copy was delivered but no further copies arrived. Further follow-up resulted in several back copies being delivered in one package - but then again, nothing followed.
Reluctantly, I have had to inform the person who paid for these regular subscriptions not to renew. The agency blamed the local postal services where I live, but I am not sure.
|Thread: Dampened boring bars for long overhangs|
For boring small holes I have used old taps. Worked well for me.
|Thread: D C Stirling/Hot Air Engine - Burner|
Thanks John for the helpful comments. Yes, now you mention it I can see that height was already a problem with my temporary burner. Will look into propane/butane alternatives.
I too am looking for a suitable burner design, but for a Stirling hot air engine. I have made the Bruce Engineering kit and run the engine off an hoc temporary burner but would like to make something more satisfactory. So I too am looking for suitable designs - preferably with some kind of reservoir so the burner can run for a long time between fills.
|Thread: Unidentified small lathe|
Well I might be. Is 'One man and His Lathe' a current series in Model Engineer? I haven't been able to access my mailed copies for a while so a bit out of touch. I did write an article for Model Engineer but it didn't go anywhere. C
Thanks all for your helpful comments. It seems to me that this a commercially produced machine though of unusual design. However, there are no identifying marks.
Thanks Michael for the link to the very ineresting homemade lathe to a very unusual design. You may be interested in my own homemade lathe in my Album made with limited access to machine tools. The bed was fabricated from stock black bar and filed to shape. All patterns for castings were home produced and cast just down the road from where I lived. The lathe is still being developed.
Can anyone identify this small lathe?
After a gap of many years, I plan to continue to upgrade this lathe - hence it being in pieces.
|Thread: Cutting steel shim|
Dear Brian and Neil,
Thanks both for your replies. I didn't seriously consider non-metalic shim but upon reflection realise that there is no good reason not to use quality plastic. So, will try this avenue first as it solves the shaping issue.
I wonder if anyone has experience of sourcing and profiling steel shim material? I need to make a shim spacer of .012" - .015" thickness 1.5" wide by 7.5" long with several holes within the boundary. So far I have not found a reasonably cost effective supply (without buying much more than I need or a whole range of thicknesses in one batch).
The second challenge is to cut the sheet to size for a one-off application. I don't want to go to the trouble of making dies to punch holes. Also I would prefer to avoid sacrificing two pieces of steel plate to sandwich the shim before filing to size and drilling the holes. For this reason was wondering about laser cutting. Does anyone know of a reasonable cutting service?
Any other suggestions would be welcome.
|Thread: What did you do today? (2014)|
Today continued the restoration of Super 7. Fitted new felt wipers to my Super 7 and ML7. Reluctantly shelled out to purchase from supplier having failed to source 6mm felt to make my own. Also tackling the tailstock deciding what can be cleaned up and what needs more radical attention. Good to know that the major work bed, saddle, new homemade leadscrew etc have all been successfully completed.
|Thread: Manual for Realm-Royal 10" shaper|
Hi Neil! Sorry for the late reply.
I don't think there is any risk of fouling the bottom of the dovertail so long as the angle of the clapper box relative to the angle of the dovertail is small to moderate - small enough to guarantee movement away from the angled face, but not so great that it interferes with the lifting action of the clapper box.
See schematic below (someone might prove me wrong, but my own experience seems to confirm this is correct).
In answer to Neil: Yes, if the clapper box is not rotated slightly relative to the angle of the rotatable topslide then the tool is liable to dig into the work on the return stroke. In my experience looking at the set up will tell you in which direction to advance the angle of the clapper box relative the angle of the topslide. This then results in the tool swinging away from the machined face.
Unless I am mistaken, it is exactly the same issue when machining a slot except that in that case the topslide is vertical. If in that case the clapper box is tilted in the wrong direction it wil cause the tool to dig into the side of the slot.
Edited By Clive Barker on 19/03/2013 17:36:53
My problem is cockroaches - which are endemic here. Not the small ones, but large ones that run fast and, for a short time each, year fly! Unfortunately, there is a drain near my workshop which means it is very difficult to completely keep them out. This time of year it is no problem, but when things warm up I will be using poison to keep them under control. The geckos eat them, but with some difficulty.
|Thread: Turning cast iron|
I have castings made to my own patterns and sometimes when turning hit hard spots. The only way I have been able to deal with them is slow the speed (back gear) use tungsten carbide tipped tools and if really necessary touch the tips up frequently on the grinder.
The same is generally true for getting through the hard skin. Intermittent cuts in and out of hard spots will destroy even my tungsten tipped tools - I suspect that is common experience.
Hope this helps,
|Thread: Using a shaping machine|
Not so long ago I machined the narrow part of the T slots in a Hemmingway rotary table kit using an Elliot 10M (which seems to be about the same size as your Boxford). The T slots are the same as Myford cross-slide slots. The material was in cast iron - and I think the tool I used was 1/4in wide. There was no problem as long as I took it slowly (I find the 3 phase inverer speed control useful for delicate work). I agree that you need to pay attention to the clapper box orientation and ensure that clamping of the work is sound. Is all that bar stock necessary or can you work on smaller sections with the slot on top so there is no unhealthly overhang? Alternatively, if the length of bar is necessary, consider clamping the work one of the vertical faces of the work table so the slot is again on the top.
|Thread: Building my own lathe|
Thanks for your encouragment, Rod!
Marble walls maybe, but rampant termites and extreme heat in the summer tend to take the edge off the apparent luxury. This used to be the kitchen before my wife requested it be moved inside the house. Marble is cheap here.
The latest project is a solar tracker for the solar panels on our flat roof - necessary to help combat long periods without electricity. The lathe is, at last, earning its keep. Unfortuntately the solar system isn't yet up to supplying enough power for the workshop. Am considering submitting this project as an article.
I have built my own lathe (4.5in centre height) which is now in regular use. I am also in a location where suitable machines at the right price were not available. In addition I was interested in trying to build as much as possible with just basic equipment - drill press, hand tools etc - otherwise I certainly would not have persevered! You can see some photos of my attempt in My Photos.
I wrote an article on its construction for Model Engineer but it was probably considered to be of interest to too few readers - which I can understand.
For me the starting point was readliy available materials and processes: H section beam, hot rolled steel section, drills and fasteners, some local machine shops with rough and ready equipment and a friendly local foundry.
Would be interested to hear how your plans progress.
|Thread: Storage of machine tools|
Thanks for your comments Keith, Neil and others and the encouraging reports of your experience - always worth far more than theory.
Thanks also for your helpful leads 'Bazyle'. The website certainly had all kinds of helpful products, but they are all very expensive! I suspect that even smallest quantity of 20 L is a large quantity for my kind of usage and is something else to store. Might have to go with the cheaper alternatives suggested by yourself, John and 'Stub Mandrel'
Dear Chris and David,
Thank you both for your helpful feedback. I will do as you suggest.
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