By continuing to use this site, you agree to our use of cookies. Find out more

Member postings for RRMBK

Here is a list of all the postings RRMBK has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Workbench idea
21/11/2016 09:55:25

Hi Curtis

Unless you have access to a very cheap supply of scaffold. you would probably find it just as easy and more practical to buy some square box section. If you are in the uk this is available delivered from plenty of local suppliers.

This welds easily, can be clamped together anywhere you wish with simple G clamps. and also doesn't have the problem of being galvanised, like the majority of scaffolding and clamps which will make the welding more awkward.

To position your laterals, cut a short piece of angle, clamp that to the leg and rest the box on it while you tack weld.

Hope this is helpful.

Kind regards


Thread: Plastic for bullseye lens
20/11/2016 15:56:52

Thank you everybody for such quick responses.

I have ordered up some of those from the far east as they are just so cheap. we'll see what they look like when they come, Otherwise I now know what to look for if I need to get the raw material.

Jason, Yes I am using a flame, I have the wick burners already made, and they give off quite a good light, however the front lenses will be at the end of the lens holder " trumpet" and will be a good way away from the flame with a series of air vent holes in between.

The side window / door, which is a flat "glass " as its used to light the number plate, is much closer and I suspect I will have to cut proper glass for that one.

I am UK based and point taken Bazyle, I tend to take it for granted that people will know, whereas clearly they cant !

Once again thanks so much everybody.

Sorry you got a belt Hacksaw !

Kind regards


19/11/2016 23:00:26

Hi can anybody suggest the best material to make some working bullseye lenses for traction engine lamps please ? I hear names like lucite, acetal, perspex delrin etc but have no idea what they relate to.

Ideally I could do with 7/8" rod which I can then hopefully machine to a dome and polish in the lathe.

Many thanks


Thread: Just read this "beginners guide" and laughed a lot!
10/07/2016 22:26:35

Our stores only had a counter window and the entrance door was away right at the back . Charlie the store man had one of those hearing aids of the early 60s that were worn in the breast pocket with a cable up to the earpiece and had a thumbwheel volume adjustment.

As apprentices we asked for items in the following manner.:-

1 Proceed to stores window and whisper " give us a new cold chisel Charlie " -- Rapid turns on thumbwheel

2 Whisper even quieter same phrase. -- More rapid twirling of thumbwheel and tapping of earpiece.

3 Mouth phrase without sound.

4 Run like hell down the corridor with something thrown off the counter following you at great speed and Charlie bellowing obscenities in the background . Charlie used to keep various suitable missiles on the counter , 1" BSW nuts being a favourite I recall.

Gawd help you if you were sent back to stores for something else the same day.!

Thread: measuring small bores
22/06/2016 22:39:02

Thank you A John W . your post finally pointed me in the right direction. Just to outline what I think has happened so it hopefully doesn't catch anyone else out, here goes. On this lathe the cross slide feed nut is held in place with an allen bolt through the top of the cross slide. It fixes the feed nut in place and also acts a somewhat of a backlash eliminator. Before boring I tightened up the gib screws to give a smooth stiff operation. It appears that the allen bolt had come slightly loose allowing a little movement between the feed nut and underside of the cross slide, which was disguised or hidden by the tight gib strip. Once the tool touched the work a slight take up of the free play tended to create the bell mouth.

Bazyle, Neil Clive and Nigel . Thank you also as your comments about tool sharpness and particularly cutting on the forward face rather than the side of the bore were particularly helpful. I think the shape I was using tended to cut more on the side and although I was taking return cuts I think Clives explanation of continuation of the problem once it has set in was most insightful for me.

Quick test tonight suggests a good improvement but wont be in the workshop for a week or more now due to work & other commitments. Tally Ho - onward and downward!!

Thank you once again all.

22/06/2016 16:54:33

Thanks to everyone for such a wealth of information, a couple of responses if I may.

The tool I am using is pretty rigid and not showing obvious signs of deflection. I am beginning to suspect that the bellmouthing is something to do with an initial slight freeplay in the cross slide leadscrew. I have wound the crosslide out to the cut but it still seems to create a slight bubble of oil at the interface between the crosslide and the saddle when the cut begins.. the remainder of the bore seems fairly parallel.

The idea is to make a simplified cannon type box where the axle is running inside a tube set into the axleboxes at either end. this is to try and stop the coal dust etc as this axle runs below the grate.

The tight tolerance is because of the use of closed cup roller bearings which close down onto the bore / shaft when fitted so the shaft tolerance is dependant upon the outside diameter.

I do have adjustable reamers that would do the job but I am somewhat frustrated at not being able to produce a job that should be fairly straightforward for my lathe which is Holbrook 9 " which is solid and without any significant wear issues. Or at least not that I know about !

Once again thanks for all the help and good advice. Great to know there are so many friendly people out there willing to freely offer their help .

21/06/2016 16:54:20

Hi All . I am trying to bore some GM axle boxes to take a 12mm OD needle roller bearing. It requires an N6 interference fit but I cant seem to solve two issues .

Although I am using a tool with as large a stem diameter as possible I am still getting bell mouth/ taper down the length of the bore which is appx 15 mm.

Also any idea on how to accurately measure such a small bore please? vernier/ digital callipers don't seem to give repeatable accuracy and my expanding bore gauge doesn't go small enough.

would greatly appreciate any input having already scrapped two boxes!

Thread: Finger plate.john wilding
19/04/2016 21:33:20

A big thank you to everyone who responded . Just the information I needed. looks like the next project is about to start. Thanks for the link to clickspring. what a great site with lots of helpful info.

Thank you again


18/04/2016 13:07:41

Good afternoon. does anyone have the drawing/ article from John Wildings book " tools for the clockmaker and repairer " giving details of the finger plate they could copy or e.mail to me. I have the ones from Stan Bray and Commander Barker /GHT but have heard this one has other features and wish to see if these would be worthwhile incorporating.

Many thanks


Thread: Calling all Advocates of the "Lammas" 3 way toolpost...
05/04/2016 10:49:23

If you are thinking of removing the top slide then have a look at the " Gibraltar " toolpost. in ME index. Cant remember if it was GHT or Tubal Cain but I'm pretty sure castings are still available - Hemmingway possibly ? doesn't get round the multiple tool issue but certainly provides good rigidity for smaller lathes eg myford etc.

Thread: The Manchester Model Engineering Exhibition
28/02/2016 20:52:09

Went today. busy but not overly so.. really nice and friendly atmosphere. small but nice venue.. I hope the turnout gives confidence to the organisers to repeat next year. Thanks for all your hard work, some really inspiring examples of workmanship on show.


Thread: drying out of flux / prefluxing of silver solder.
13/01/2016 10:56:24

Gary and Julian thank you. What a great example of " a picture speaks a thousand words" I would never have considered the block in the firebox to conserve heat and protect other areas, and the view of the flux gives me a really good idea of the amount and consistency.

Kwil - I usually partly thread but being daft I often forget when making the bushes and go all the way through. Not had any failures with the fully threaded bushes yet.

Anyhow I can forget about boilers now for a fortnight - snow has fallen and the slopes are beckoning -- off skiing hooray !!

Kind regards all


13/01/2016 07:43:41

Thank you all for your advice and suport . greatly appreciated. I feel a lot more confident about the next steps now. Gary - one queery please re your " gotcha" any estimate of how long is too long ?

Kind regards All.


Thread: 2"Scale Clayton Undertype
12/01/2016 13:01:04

I may be misreading your post but are you suggesting doing away with the flanges. without them I cant see how you could make an effective seal and all the points the previous posters have made would wekaen it even further. Question - are you trying to flange after drilling the holes possibly? I would reccomend flanging with lots of annealing then draw out the tube positions and the tube outside diameters accurately on a sheet of heavyweight paper. Then stick this inside the flanged end of the plate. This way you can confirm that the tubes will not foul the flange . centre through the marking ( I use a tiny bit in an archimedes hand drill ) and drill out the tube positions from these. I have done a few tube plates like this in the past where the tubes are close to the flange with a good success rate.

Kind regards


Thread: drying out of flux / prefluxing of silver solder.
12/01/2016 10:40:52

Thanks Julian.

My thinking was to pickle the individual boiler parts, and then flux and rivet up with a few bits of thin 2/3 thou shim adjacent to rivets between joints which is then pulled out. Leave overnight and solder up the following day, using a normal fluid flux mix to supplement the joints. I understand the need to coat the rivet heads. This isnt my first boiler but on the last one I did seem to get problems with what appeared to be lack of flux penetration.

12/01/2016 10:09:44

Hi all some help please.

In preparing for silver soldering has anyone fluxed joints before riveting and allowed the flux to dry out in the right place between the joint, say overnight; before silver soldering. My boiler sections are currently fixed together with screws and I would like to be sure the flux has fully coated the surfaces before actually removing these and finally replacing them with Rivets. I presume the water in the flux mix is only there to allow the flux to flow or seep into the joints which it would not do if dry, or does it serve some deeper chemical purpose? my concern would be that the air pressure of the flame might blow the dry flux out from the joints if applied directly Hope this makes sense.

Kind regards all


Thread: Rosebud
19/10/2015 13:22:57

I seem to recall someone saying they used a slocumbe centre drill from below. havent seen the article yet.

see you at track sometime.


Thread: polishing in the lathe
05/08/2015 15:40:52


One would sincerely hope not, but unfortunately that does tend to be the sort of knee jerk reaction that eventually happens. I agree wholehartedly with ADY's comments I feel that proper awareness and acknowledgement of the risks, and passing on that knowledge to teach newcomers whether they are children or adults; is beholden on all of us who did have the benfit of proper experienced tutors, often during a 4 or 5 year apprenticeship. Equally it is important that those who recieve the benefit of that learning use the information properly and in the right manner.

I put this up originally partly because of the recent protracted discussion that has taken place about plugs and sockets of differing types. whilst HSE does not apply directly in our home workshops, ultimately it is up to us as adults to shoulder responsibility for our safety and the safety of anyone we teach or influence, especially when forums such as this are such wonderful fountains of excellent practice and hard learned experience, and others tend to rely on them for their guidance.

05/08/2015 12:11:18

I fully agree. I intended my inital post to refer to encouraging younger people into a hobby that appears to have an increasingly ageing membership profile, but worded it wrongly. Also if you are not already aware of it the HSE " Mythbusters section of their website makes some very interesting and occasionally entertaining reading !

Thread: 2 1/2" wheel profile
05/08/2015 11:51:54

Try national 2.5 Gauge association **LINK**

Magazine Locator

Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!

Find Model Engineer & Model Engineers' Workshop

Latest Forum Posts
Support Our Partners
Eccentric July 5 2018
Eccentric Engineering
Rapid RC
Subscription Offer

Latest "Wanted" Ads
Get In Touch!

Do you want to contact the Model Engineer and Model Engineers' Workshop team?

You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.

Click THIS LINK for full contact details.

For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.

Digital Back Issues

Social Media online

'Like' us on Facebook
Follow us on Facebook

Follow us on Twitter
 Twitter Logo

Pin us on Pinterest