Here is a list of all the postings RRMBK has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Can we have a really clear distinction between Silver Soldering and Brazing|
I stand properly corrected by Bill Davies, it is book no 9 . My reference to no 6 is either a typo on my part or more likely my usual problem with FFS ( fat finger syndrome! )
Despite all of that I still recommend it as a worthwhile read.
|Thread: Silver Soldering Brass|
Take a bit of time to read the Workshop practice book No 6 by Tubal Cain , the late TD Walshaw . One will learn and understand all one ever needs to know about soldering, silver soldering and brazing and the distinctions between them. It may be dated in relation to its references to cadmium based products ( at least my older copy is ) but that doesn't in any way affect the superb explanations of the theory and practical aspects of this interesting and much misunderstood process. Happy reading and you will certainly achieve better joints after studying this straightforward and well written book.
It might be worth checking the acetelyne situation with your insurers. Mine immediately responded that my house and contents insurance would be null and void if I were storing acetelyne, even outside in a non attached building.
|Thread: Can we have a really clear distinction between Silver Soldering and Brazing|
Take a bit of time to read the Workshop practice book No 6 by Tubal Cain , the late TD Walshaw . One will learn and understand all one ever needs to know about soldering, silver soldering and brazing and the distinctions between them. It may be dated in relation to its references to cadmium based products ( at least my older copy is ) but that doesnt in any way affect the superb explanations of the theory and practical aspects of this interesting and much misunderstood process. Happy reading and you will certainly achieve better joints after studying this straightforward and well written book.
|Thread: What are these wheels /tyres?|
Michelin make alternative filled tubes, known as Bib Mousse ( after their mascot Bibendum ) for off road endurance motorcycles.and they are exceptionally good although a bitch to fit ! Having developed the concept it wold seem logical for them to make them for ATV's, possibly worth a look.
|Thread: combustion chamber testing|
Duncan and John, thanks .
I am also using old inner tube, but I tend to leave the tube lengths slightly different to help feeding them in the SB tubeplate later on. I have cut them to the same length but not successful. Unfortunately you cant reach the inner ends of the tubes because of the cross tubes in the combustion chamber. I've been through all my back eim copies without success, so I presume it must be in one I loaned out and didn't get back. sods law !! Just cant remember what he actually used, so if you can find it I would be most grateful.
Forgot to load photos DOH !!
Look under album Test rig.
Good morning All.
I am building a locomotive boiler ( LBSC / Josslin Uranus ) and have tested the silver soldering of the cross tubes in the combustion chamber to 200 psi all good. Now the combustion chamber has been soldered to the tube nest I am trying to test the combustion chamber to front plate and the tube nest joint, inside out so to speak; as once its soldered in to the boiler you cant get at it at all.
I cant seem to get a good enough seal on the tubes at the smokebox end to get pressure up sufficiently high and don't want to tighten up the test rig any more in case a tube buckles.
I seem to recall an article in EIM regarding a similar test and how he sealed the tube ends, can anyone point me in the direction of that article or have any ideas how a better seal might be achieved ? I had considered making ali or wooden plugs and fitting with silicone, but I am concerned about them swelling the ends of the tubes and the difficulties of getting them all the same length.
Over to the knowledgeable ones from this old dunce !
|Thread: Conundrum for the collective!|
Age may be a relevant factor. Some marine engine builders will have machined the couplings in their own build yards, and bored them to suit the shafts. the hole spacing is then determined by the shaft diameter, being positioned midway between the bore and the OD. That's certainly how we did it when re - engineing some work boats of similar horsepower. Particularly awkward to use a Din or BS standard on a shaft built before they were introduced !
|Thread: Yet more confusion!|
We have never enjoyed a stable climate.
We have never enjoyed a stable political system.
We have never enjoyed a stable economic system.
What have we ever enjoyed that could be classed as stable?
|Thread: Getting priorities right|
Our beloved representatives ( MP's) of all colours, agree that the national minimum wage is around 8 quid an hour, the average working week under the Working time directive is around 40 hours . In my primary school maths, the government are saying that a person can live on £ 320 per week. give or take a few quid.
On that basis,how come anyone can be offered benefits that amount to more than that sum ? Equally important for many of us on this forum how come a young fit able person deserves £320 per week but a pensioner only deserves around £120. ????
Obviously maths is not the Government,s strong suit
|Thread: Thread Wires.|
in the US Chips are our crisps and Fries are our chips. and ive never seen anything yet in my swarf tray / chip pan that looked even remotely edible!!
|Thread: Quick release hook|
Google pelican hook. no need to re invent the wheel , we used these on the anchor chains for rigs with 40 ton anchors hanging on the end and they were tripped remotely with a long pendant , so you can get them any size you want. only work with chain though, not with wire.
|Thread: Solution found to the World's biggest problem . . .|
I am still regularly riding my 750 BMW that I bought new 42 years ago. Over its lifetime it has taken me to work regularly and on long distance europe trips. I have carried out various repairs but it still starts first time and I can still get spares for it ( although at rather exorbitant prices!)
I recently visited the Triumph factory at Hinkley, great day out and very interesting . Very tempted by a new bike but will it still be going in 40 years time i'm not sure? will I be able to get spares , I suspect not, can I service and repair it myself absolutely not !!
Exactly the same applies to my 26 year old Peugot based motorhome in comparison with a new one,
Companies profits and shareholders dividends are based on selling us a new item just as often as they possibly can and marketing is based on convincing us that things we might only actually want are things we desperately need.
Like NDIY all my machines are over 40 years old and still perfectly fine.
|Thread: Holbrook 10B lathe|
A very good point Brian ( the other one ! ) but when I swapped my South Bend for the Holbrook I kept most of my chucks, backplates etc and all of them fit perfectly.
I think that boxford cloned the S.B and that the 10B was then subsequently designed to use S.B / Boxford accessories to avoid having to develop new stuff. I suspect the other alternative at the time being the Myford parts, they were considered not beefy enough.
I put the original listing up as mine is no 18 and came to me virtually from its original buyer.
Your chuck backplate should be no problem as it is the same thread and register as a Boxford or South bend so one from either of these can be used. From memory I think it is 1 1/2 " x 8 tpi.
Whereabouts in the UK are you? and are you visiting the Midlands Exhibition? I will be there Fri Sat & sun .
I also have a manual you can photocopy although it isnt really up to much !
|Thread: Graham Meek - Mods to (copies of) Picador Drill Grinding Jigs|
Hi all. Did we ever get to answer the OP original question - where are the drawings to be found.? I would also like to modify my non picador jig and would like to access the drawings. I have looked through the eim index and my back copies of eim but cant find anything.
So if anyone does know or can post the info please share the location!
|Thread: Thermic Syphon|
Can I go back a few posts and pick up the point made by Brian G . I find it difficult to understand the inspectors comments viz :- " consider redesigning the boiler in order to abandon the combustion chamber completely as it cannot be tested before it becomes completely inaccessible "
Firstly if you are re-designing the boiler it is surely no longer a published design benefiting from " grandfather rights" You would need to get the altered design proven by calculation and as Duncan rightly points out who will sign it off? Not the boiler inspector I suspect!
Secondly having built a combustion tube boiler with cross stays for LBSC Uranus which is very similar size to a Brittania boiler in 3 1/2 G, one can either test the combustion chamber alone by blanking off both ends and pressurise from the combustion space outwards.
In my case I also fitted the end tube plate and the embryo firebox and throatplate, and it can then be tested up to full pressure by blanking off the firebox base, and the tubeplate ends and pressurising "inside out and upside down" so to speak. In my case I used an aluminium plate with a rubber gasket around the grate opening with a connection for the boiler test pump and a vent. I did it this way because all these joints were brazed with 750 deg silver solder and the remainder of the boiler is with 580 / 600 to avoid disturbing these joints at the later build stages. This will confirm the cross tube and the throatplate joints.
I agree that boiler inspectors take on a huge responsibility voluntarily on our behalf, and a proper set of standards for design and construction along the lines of the Australian code would at least give them all a standard to work to and avoid individual interpretation.
God forbid we should have an accident somewhere, then everything will be put on hold until we do get a code and a set of standards approved, which wont be a quick process; and the ensuing limbo will mean no one, not even the commercial builders will be in a position to build a boiler without knowing what the future standards will be. So perhaps the way forward is to be proactive and get it before the event.
Citric acid is really good, safe and cheap. you can get 1 kg bags on flea bay for a few quid and I use about one large tablespoon in a mop bucket. cleans up copper easily and quickly and if you have a spill there are no nasty consequences particularly for pets For steel I use brick cleaner. again cheap, easy to buy and as I rarely silver solder large steel items I keep it in a large screw top jar and just drop the item in hot and put the lid back on loose to contain any fumes.
|Thread: 3" Burrell build|
I have the same engine and share your frustration with the very poor standard of the drawings ! My steam manifold ( steam head ) is fitted with two bolts into the manifold which then pass through the spectacle plate and through a square plate with 4 holes in the corners, fitted on the other( front) side of the spectacle plate. This small square plate is then anchored to the spectacle plate with the two bolts above that you can see in the pic. I'm not good with photos and computers but if this doesn,t explain it come back to me. The square plate is shown at the bottom LH corner of drwg 109, but the drawing of the steam head shows all 4 holes as being located in the manifold which is clearly impossible because the plate would then block the entry of the manifold inlet fitting from the boiler.. So basically the two lower holes in the plate match the upper holes in the manifold and the two upper holes in the plate, bolt through the spectacle plate above the manifold.
Kind regards bk.
|Thread: OT: Stuart Turner Single Cylinder Marine Engines|
Had a couple of these in sailing boats over the years. In what way is it "unhappy" Like most little 2 strokes the right mixture, a good spark and clean ports are all they generally need .
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