Here is a list of all the postings camper has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Bearing race for bicycle wheel ?|
radus should be somewhat oversize to obtain line contact and ease of alignment when doctoring an or baliss willey the gash box turned up a pair of magneto bearings that did the job with minimal fiddling
|Thread: Another Rollo Elf thread|
Have a far eastern 5speed version on a tandem it seems bullet proof, but some of the birmingham ones were a tad iffy. As an aside a hub brake makes decent clutch my 1930 springfield has used a bsa bantam rear for 30 years it is now worth more than the lathe
|Thread: Myford ML2 lathe|
if its similar to my ml4 modern myford gears fit drill your own pin holes or if you file keyways in your existing gears you can use ml7 sleeves and pins with a bit of fiddling lathes,co is useful
|Thread: Flycutter with 2 Morse taper and M10 thread|
|permenant solution helicoil i used this on 3mt when the new chinaman made all the old tooling obsolete a cheapy kit from tracy tools had sufficient inserts for everything and some left over not a great deal dearer than the studding.|
|Thread: home castings / metal alloys|
|willow contains an acid salictic? related to asprin which allegedly removes free hydrogen from bronzes for ally i think you need a proper degass tablet bad news for the impecunious (my foundry experience was as an apprentice40 odd years ago and it all seemed a bit like sorcery at the time)|
|Thread: Adjustable Dials for Feedscrews|
warning! mentioning an ml4 may bring down accusations that you are a primitive living in a tent.
In the real world check feedscrew wear first as you can "update"to ml7 bits with some ingenuity but will need different divisions also filling the bed with epoxy granite transforms the ridigity and gets rid of the swarf trap if you have the open top model .
CAREFULY SET UP AND USED SENSIBLY it will make anything a7 will and leave you money to spend on castings and kit enjoy it
|Thread: myford boxford or colchester|
sorry no micro house or any hopes ever of a super seven ml7 the almost affordable one spindle+bearings 400 bed saddle regrind pushing 600 try that in your old age on a fixed income not everyone out here is wealthy and the falacy that you must spend a fortune on modern kit dro etc before making anything is possibly putting many newcomers off you dont actually need it and you may learn more without it which is not to say i would'nt like it myself .conrary to popular belief i'm not a tight old yorkshireman but an impoverished mikanik who would rather use older kit than option b watch telly
condition is everything with myfords an early one still fetches good money but if well worn thecost of a regrind and headstock bearings ithe same as a modest terraced house.
easier to find good boxfords and bigger lathes.as for the chinaman been there dunnit sold it on ebay curretly using a ml4 for titchy bits and a lease lend springfield both with bus passes but mint and both cost nowt
|Thread: Frame material for Tich|
|gauge plate for frames, luxury bought a cheapo cuts all saw from aldi turns a old chassis leg into valuable raw material in seconds 6mm ms without complaint wonderful for the impecunious ps chip fat is great in ml4 headstock bearings and the workshop heater|
|Thread: Parallel Turning|
|twist etc is best checked with a test bar in the headstock taper any lathe can be coaxed into turning parallel between centres with tailstock adjustment and fag papers sadly this newfound precision is not reflected in chuck held work or when trying to bore parallel|
|Thread: Turbine Blades|
use two different size holesaws to form blade profile (no pilot necessary if you go gently)
haggle the waste out as best you see fit twist to suit, primitive but it works with a ml4 and a steel tape(saving for a mike).
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