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Member postings for David Haynes

Here is a list of all the postings David Haynes has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Missing ME pages
06/01/2013 09:48:07

Hi folks,

I am missing some ME pages and would be grateful if someone has scanned copies that they could email to me. It is from the 18 July 1975 ,Vol141, No3517. The article is about Albert Peryman's Brighton Baltic, I have p691, ending 'with very favourable comments; the acceleration...' and the next page I have is p694, begining 'touching the regulator...'

I may be able to buy the whole issue, but it is costly for just 2 pages.

So if anyone has p692 and p693 as a scanned copy, and they are indeed the missing pages, please can you help.

With many thanks


Thread: Ready machined inside cylinder block
26/11/2012 20:41:55

Thanks Jason,

I will look at grades of bronze suited to bearings. Does anyone have any thoughts about PTFE as an alternative for this replacement valve surface. I see no drawbacks in this material, bearing and heat properties seem fit for purpose and any slight compressibility is perhaps not a problem in this application.



25/11/2012 22:01:20

I am interested in buying a ready machined inside cylinder block for a loco I am hoping to build. It will be some time before I actually need it but the cost and time saving is potentially great I am not one to buy things 'just in case', but this is a project for which I have been already been producing construction drawings and thus I am already fairly committed. The overall width, between frames, of the cylinder block is correct but the length is 8.4mm short of my requirements. That discrepancy may be just due to the rear cover bosses. The inside depth from the rear of the block to front cylinder cover is right and the bores are correct (or within 1/64".

However, the ports (4mm x 12mm steam and 6mm x 12mm exhaust) are quite a bit different than what I want (2.4mm x 17.5mm steam and 9.5mm x 17.5mm exhaust). My concern is, as the design I am producing is based on a proven cylinder pair, is it worth trying to change the port dimensions on this ready made item. If this is the case, I wonder how successful people have been in blanking and re-boring ports; what is the best filler?

Many thanks, Dave

Thread: Injector Manufacture
27/10/2012 08:39:23


I must first say that I am not currently making this and I know many will say to go and just go and buy one! In LBSCs account of the Mona injector, for the divided combing cone, he talks about using a 7/32" dia brass rod, drilling it with a No. 72 drill and then opening it out with a 3/4 in tapered reamer. My query is, firstly 3/4in is too large for a No72 (0.026"  hole and I don't see any small reamers advertised anywhere.

I would be grateful for your thoughts.



Edited By David Haynes on 27/10/2012 08:50:44

Edited By David Haynes on 27/10/2012 08:51:19

Edited By David Haynes on 27/10/2012 08:51:41

Thread: Casting defect in cylinder wall
20/10/2012 07:19:51

What success have people had with machining these expoxy resins?


Thread: Case hardening
17/10/2012 19:21:29

Thanks for these thoughts. I have case hardening compound but not enough old shoes or belts to make up the leather carbon source. I did wonder if I had enough steel plate I could spare but I realised it may be okay to use a tin can. We only recently had corned beef so the box tin might do the job.

But, is it work waiting for some leather scraps?

I will try the process on a drilled bar stock before I try it on the machined links.

Also, for lapping compound, I suppose a fine grade grinding paste would do?

Thanks again


Edited By David Haynes on 17/10/2012 19:23:09

17/10/2012 17:52:24

How does the inner bearing surface become adequately hardened without losing bore?


17/10/2012 16:54:12

Hi Folks,

I want to case harden the eyes of a small link, 5/8" C/Cs with 0.096" dia holes. I understand that I heat to red/ pack hardening compound in and repeat a few times before quenching in water.

How will I know I have done enough treatment and will I need to re-drill to return to original hole size, but will this remove case hardening?


Thread: collets & vice
22/09/2012 20:37:12


The set up looks very nice and the stands are a nice touch. For my X3 (imperial/R8) I paid for a Sieg stand but yours will be much cheaper and probably better, plus the added satisfaction of a job well done!

Have fun chipping!


Edited By David Haynes on 22/09/2012 20:37:57

Thread: Magnetic swarf removers
20/08/2012 13:42:02

Many thanks for some good suggestions.

I've been using 1/2" craft paint brushes borrowed (!) from my children for some years, along with a dust pan and brush. I then package it into empty food cans that are crimped in the vice and sent out with the recycling collection. John S, I think Arc have sent you an industrial/scrap metal dealer grade in error.


20/08/2012 10:34:11


Has anyone any experience or comments about the Chester swarf removers here?



Thread: Silver solder guiding
17/08/2012 09:08:04


I have two gaps close to one another, one must be soldered and on must not, they are all part of the same part. If flux is used on the joint to be soldered, is there something to prevent solder taking, aside from oxide and lack of flux?


Edited By David Haynes on 17/08/2012 10:05:49

Thread: Hardening gauge plate
15/08/2012 14:06:43

Thanks Ian, that was the way I was thinking I would be going. I did think about using PTFE sheet, but when a piece 300mm x 300mm x 3mm (nearest I can get to 1/8" costs ~ £30, I don't think that is an option I will be using.


14/08/2012 19:25:09

Hi folks,

After a bit of thought, I have decided not to harden either the expansion link or the die block, but to re-make a die block from phosphor bronze, on the premise that this already has good bearing properties.

Just one question, does anyone know of suppliers of 1/8" sheets of PB? I don't want to have to cut down 1/2" sq bar.



10/08/2012 22:25:11

The link is about 1 3/4" long by ~1/2" wide

10/08/2012 19:20:42
I want to harden some 1/8” gauge plate expansion links and die blocks and would like to confirm the process. The instructions stated ‘from 500 deg C preheat, raise to 790 deg C – 850 deg C, hold to become uniform and quench into oil’
Is this a heat colour of red heat, visible in the daylight preheat followed by dull cherry-red for the final stage?
Also, what sort of oil should be used? Would one of the Myford lathe oils oil be ok? Maybe a bit expensive and should some engine oil be used instead?
Thread: Search by Post Author
21/07/2012 10:09:19

Thanks for that - all quite clear now


20/07/2012 23:27:09

Thanks Bob, but I don't seem to have a 'Google' search box at the top right of ME home page. The only search boxes that I have are one directly beneath the Model Engineer badge in the top left and one above the posting. Neither of these returned a very comprehensive search by post author.

Dave H

20/07/2012 20:53:35

I would like to find a posting which I think has been made by a particular person and it would be useful if I could do such a search. Does this function exist and have I missed it when I looked?


Thread: Choice of Model
14/07/2012 08:36:59

Hi Neil,

I am building a Tich and having discovered the later LBSC Belpaire variant, thought I would try it. I then had an awful time trying to buy 16 gauge copper tube 2 5/8" dia.x 4 1/2" long, I tried all the main suppliers but with no success and it was only from a small firm that I was successful. I don't know if your thinner tube would be okay.

That said, Tich is an odd loco with many for and against it. I find the building, though slow, has kept my interest. The end result leaves a few people disappointed but I think that the Belpaire option will add something different and help solve one of the big complaints about the poor firing.



Edited By David Haynes on 14/07/2012 08:38:07

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