Here is a list of all the postings Martin W has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: pyrex is not PYREX|
For an energetic fragmentation of glass the Prince Rupert Drops are an excellent example. They will survive the impact of a bullet or hammer blow to the bulbous part of the drip/drop but fracture the tale end the disintegration is explosive, wiki gives a description here and from Popular Mechanics an article with photos of the effect of a bullet hitting a drop and also at the end a slow motion film showing a drop exploding.
|Thread: Diary of a watch breaker|
For lost screws and springs a powerful rare earth pulled across the carpet will certainly recover some of the errant items plus a lot of bits of unknown origin. Just don't get it anywhere near the a tray of watch parts as it will likely cause chaos .
|Thread: What is "Mathematics"|
Mathematics has existed since the beginning of time but it is only very recently that we have started to understand the language and we are still learning.
|Thread: Emergency Radio Format|
Have you seen this announcement from uk.gov?
|Thread: Galvanic Corrosion|
Is the any merit in using a mechanical/vibrating engraving tool with a suitably shaped bit to apply a repeated impact to the screw in an attempt to break the bond. It shouldn't damage the sensor but will deliver continuous moderate energy impacts with a short period. It may well be worth a try before more aggressive methods are employed.
In a former life I could have chatted to my colleagues with regard to this type of problem as we deployed ocean buoys with a similar sensor arrangement.
|Thread: Chester machine tool machines|
I bought a DB7VS lathe 14 years ago and it is still going strong. Other than the standard adjustments i.e. gib strips, initial degrease etc. it was used straight out of the box and has to date proved to be very accurate, reliable and gutsy little machine. Whether their offerings are the same now only they might know. Like Bezzer I would recommend having a separate lathe and mill rather than a composite machine. As Steve says if your close enough to the likes of Chester or Warco then drop in and have look and get your hands on the machines on display, that was one of the benefits of attending the shows as one could compare machines virtually side by side.
|Thread: Wiring and connectors|
To get better water proofing of joints/connections etc. there is always adhesive lined heat shrink. Provided it is applied to smooth surface cables i.e. round or oval shaped and not figure of eight configuration it provides a secure and totally waterproof solution even in extreme conditions. Another solution that is slightly less elegant but which can be more convenient to use is self amalgamating tape, again this, if properly applied, provides a totally waterproof solution where cables etc. are joined.
PS To make reliable crimp connections make sure the exposed tails are clean, match crimp to wire diameter and use the correct crimping tool that doesn't release until the crimping jaws have closed. The cheap flat sided plier like 'do it all' tools should be avoided like the plague
Edited By Martin W on 09/04/2022 01:19:31
|Thread: Dykem Layout Blue Remover|
I use IPA for cleaning and removal of flux in a fair number of projects, including cleaning my glasses. It will also remove/dissolve permanent marker ink from surfaces, organic oils/fats especially those associate with cooking i.e. glass oven doors etc and will free up model IC engines that have become locked up after not being used for an extended period; a quick squirt sown the carb and in the exhaust ports leave for a little while.
I Buy IPA from CPC which supply 400mL aerosols or cans up to 1L.
|Thread: Steel Blue recommendations|
I have used Perma Blue made by Birchwood Casey on a very old BSA air rifle and was very impressed with the finish. It comes as a 'wipe on wipe off paste' which is very easy to apply and the depth of colour can be controlled by varying duration between application and removal. I abraded a sample I had blued and the finish seems to be very durable. Can't compare to other products as this is the only cold bluing product I have used.
|Thread: Too lazy or too stupid?|
What about the people for whom reading is extremely difficult to near impossible and have turned to a practical hobby like engineering/carpentry/art because they are good with their hands and can visualise the solution to a problem. Are they to be marginalised/excluded because they ask what appears to be a basic question. I have a very good friend who has severe reading difficulties where the letters of the words, after a few minutes of looking at a page of text, start to move around. He describes it like seeing 'Ants crawling all over the page', how many of us would then be prepared to try to read a book let alone one with tables and charts in it. When I email/message him my emails are always kept short and to the point.
So what does he do for a living, runs his own company of course and he is highly intelligent, excellent ideas person, superb sense of humour, brilliant at wood working. Yes he might ask the odd basic question but not because he is lazy or just wants a quick solution.
So perhaps those of us who can read and enjoy doing so should think carefully before being critical of the questions posed by others.
|Thread: Resin blocks drain|
I know its too late now but when you found out it was cement based wouldn't brick cleaner made to task a fair bit easier as it is designed to dissolve mortar. See this article
Edit; removal of incorrect statement
Edited By Martin W on 27/02/2022 17:26:09
Edited By Martin W on 27/02/2022 17:42:53
|Thread: Kindness to Brush Motor Control Board|
While this doesn't help the OP with his question regarding start up procedures for his lathe. The Chester DB7V that I have has a built in soft start and to date I have had no problem with the electronics even though I rarely set the speed to minimum prior to starting unless I require a high speed setting. The lathe must be over 10 years old now and hasn't missed a beat in that time, famous last words!!
As I said this doesn't help the OP but I believe that this illustrates the benefit of soft start procedures be they implemented either electronically or manually so if you are unsure whether your system has a soft start built in then starting at the minimum speed and ramping up to the required operating speed will do the electronics no harm and could well extend their life.
|Thread: Mamod Locomotive Rebuild|
Just had a Google search and it would appear that Mamod is still going strong, see here, but they are not cheap to buy
Edited By Martin W on 20/12/2021 11:35:18
|Thread: Another workholding problem|
Any merit in gluing it to a sacrificial substrate, mounting substrate on the faceplate, center workpiece and level, turn the profile you want and then remove finished article from the substrate. This process has been discussed on this forum more than once I believe.
No doubt they will come up with pink electricity to ensure that you are not using the domestic stuff and avoiding paying the appropriate tax.
Edited By Martin W on 30/11/2021 00:33:52
|Thread: Buying stock?|
I wouldn't recommend going to a scrap yard and buying lumps of metal as you will have no idea of the specification for that material. It could be anything from soft and gummy to hardened metal, if the former then it will likely tear rather than cut which can give a really rough finish and if hardened then getting it to cut may well be difficult.
This could well lead to you chasing problems that are nothing to do with your kit or abilities. How do I know? from experience of course. A classic example was some cheap aluminium offcuts I bought as they appeared to be a bargain. Some was OK but the rest was so soft that a standard well sharpened tool just seemed to smudge the surface and left a chronically poor cut. Changed to a known piece T6/6082 and instantly got a mirror finish with the same tool and settings. I have also had problems with steel of unknown specification, this turned well and the finish was pretty good but when looked at the next morning had bent like a banana as the stresses relieved.
Buy your metals from a recognised company who give the specification of the material being supplied. Yes it may be marginally more expensive but will save you time, heartache and could well wind up cheaper in the long run. Once you know what you want to do then you can reduce shipping costs by combining your order with a supplier.
I know this isn't answering the main questions in your opening post but it could well stop you becoming frustrated and disheartened re the hobby.
For starting I would recommend a steel such as EN1a (old specification but still frequently used) or equivalent and an aluminium alloy like T6/6082 using sharp HSS cutters and mills.
|Thread: Merryweather Fire King|
That all looks brilliant, I envy people that can produce results like that. Keep posting your progress and like Werner's I really enjoy seeing projects like this coming to fruition.
|Thread: Another chinese lathe rises through the smoke|
Have you ever inspected the brush gear on the motor for wear or carbon dust build up? It could be that the brushes need replacing or it just needs a good clean out. After 13 years use, depending how hard/frequently its been used, it would benefit from a service.
Edit. Moving a comma
Edited By Martin W on 15/11/2021 10:31:21
|Thread: Hermes. A Company in Total Confusion!|
Ordered some bits and pieces from China, not engineering related. The company supplied a tracking number and using this I was able to see the progress of this order across China, transit to the UK and arrival at the Slough depot of the shipping company where it was scheduled to be picked up for delivery by Hermes once it had cleared customs etc. The day after clearance I received an email from Hermes stating it was going to delivered the next day between 10:00 and 11:00. GUESS WHAT the door bell rang at about 10:20 and the Hermes man was there ready to hand me my parcel and take the now obligatory picture. Problems none, service spot on, well done Hermes in this case. No vested interests in this or any other courier company, Just a satisfied customer, but waiting for the cock up to strike.
There are a couple of PMs for you.
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.