Here is a list of all the postings James Dickie has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Mystery micrometer|
It seems like a lot of effort to go to when perfectly good tube mic's are available. As Neil says, the idea that these are for some kind of inspection whilst mounted on a stand makes sense.
interestingly, another one has just come up on eBay: Moore & Wright tube micrometer. The finish on this one looks more of a piece than the others, so it would be interesting to see if its a M&W standard product or not. Does anyone have access to old catalogues that might show something similar?
Thank you for all the replies. It's interesting that Williams's example has a connection to a jig borer. I know very little about such machines, but from what I've read I can imagine that these micrometers could be useful for checking features set out from hole centers.
i would hazard a guess that there's a 1950s apprentice training manual, maybe issued by the MoD, that covers the subject and suggests the construction of these tools. Certainly that environment would be more tolerant of putting as much effort into the box as the tool.
I've inherited a boxed micrometer that is unlike any I've seen before. The actual head is Moore & Wright, but there is no model number visible. The head can slide along the bar and be clamped in position. The set of attachments on the right can be clamped to one end of the bar, as shown in the second picture. Those on the left all have a 3/16" pin and a 3/64" hole in the top. Their body sizes are all about 0.010" under common frctions of an inch, up to 1/2". I assume from the empty hole in the box that I'm missing an adaptor that allows them to attach to the bar. The other two rods appear to be alternative anvils for the micrometer. The clip on the shorter one matches the diameter of the bar, but there is no way to lock it in position.
I assume that this is used to measure from a bore to the edge of a component. The appropriate attachment being selected to suit and then the head being set to give a convenient measuring range, from a valve port to the edge of a cylinder head, for example.
Despite extensive searching, I've not been able to find pictures online of anything similar. This makes me think that it might be have been made for a particular job, rather than being a standard Moore & Wright product. Does anyone recognise it and shed any light on what it is?
|Thread: SX1 Mill Motor Shaft|
If you would like an easy route to a belt drive conversion, then I can highly recommend this one:
The one I purchased was delivered very quickly, the parts are very well made, fit perfectly to the machine and everything works very well. Having a push button lock for the spindle makes life much easier too. The only tricky bit is building a new box for the control board, but you'll have to figure that out anyway if you do your own thing.
I've no connection with the supplier of this kit, just a satisfied customer.
|Thread: Eclipse 180 instrument vice|
I ground the end off the vice tail. It's pretty hard steel, a file wouldn't touch it. That got the vice out of the boss. I could then get a bit of bar down the hole and press the pad out into the hole in the boss. It was rusted almost solid for the last 10mm. Soaking it in rust remover then got that back to the point where I could wind in the screw until the coupler clicked into place and withdraw the pad. Cleaned the end up, oiled it and reassembled. Now it's working perfectly, just like it was described in the eBay listing...
Thanks to all for your help and advice.
Edited By James Dickie on 10/04/2020 16:32:45
Phil: Thanks very much, that's just what I was looking for. The screw and the little coupler with the crimps come out of mine easily, but the pad is jammed in.
DC31k: Thanks for the link. The tail of the vice slides freely in the boss, it just won't go past the end of the clamp pad.
I suspect I'm going to have to file down the round section at the end of the vice tail so that it will come out of boss. Then hope that I can get at the clamp pad with a Dremel bit to get rid of any burrs and somehow get it out. Might need to then drill that little couple for a couple of grub screw to hold the pad in place again.
Thanks, Chris, but I'm looking for a photo of one that's been disassembled. At least, just the clamp screw that engages with the vice tail.
I have just bought an Eclipse 180 instrument vice, but the clamp screw that engages the tail of the actual vice has come adrift from it's pressure pad. The pad is stuck at the end of its travel, so the vice tail won't come out of the clamp block. A previous owner has obviously tried to force it out, because the bottom of the tail had a burr on it. Even after stoning this off, the vice tail won't go past the pressure pad, so I'm guessing that has been burred as well.
If some has one of these vices and can post a pic of the clamp screw and pressure pad so that I know what it looks like, then I'd really appreciate it.
|Thread: Mystery rotating V block|
Thanks very much. Which model of grinder is that?
Does anyone recognise this rotating V-block? There's no makers name or other marks that I can see. The key is for a 7/16" T-slot, so it doesn't fit on my Super 7, even though I discovered it in the stand that the lathe came on.
Any ideas on what it's used for gratefully received.
|Thread: S7 countershaft running hot|
Thanks for all the advice
KWIL, can I withdraw the entire countershaft/clutch unit from the swing arm without dismantling it all? From reading other clutch-related threads on here then I don't yet want to go down that route if I can avoid it.
I have an S7 that hasn't been used for a long time. It doesn't appear to have been ill treated, but it hasn't been looked after. In particular, it's been run with the belts rubbing against the guards.
I've adjusted everything that I can, cleaned and lubricated. The countershaft pulley was not locked to the shaft, so that's been fixed. This afternoon I've replaced the knackered belts with new Fenner link belts.
I decided to run the belts in for a bit, changing the countershaft one onto the different pulley steps every 5 minutes or so. I also regularly checked the oil levels.
After a while I noticed that the countershaft was running much hotter at the motor side. The oil cup on that side was blowing bubbles out the top when I lifted the lid.
Any advice on what to investigate here? Also, how do the oil cups fix into the countershaft support?
|Thread: Making a start|
Hi all! I have inherited a Myford Super7 that I am in the process of getting running. Also an early M7 that has been completely stripped down that I intend to rebuild. I dare say I'm going to have lots of questions along the way.
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