Here is a list of all the postings Andyf has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Might prospective digital subscribers be put off ....|
That will probably help rope in more digital subscribers, David. There may be a substantial number of folk (particularly from overseas) who would take up the offer if it was a little clearer.
For MEW, something like "Model Engineers' Workshop from 1990 (issue 1) up to date" both in the box at the top and in the text below would be more tempting, and something similar for ME, though that won't go back to issue 1, of course.
The odd thing is that, because I subcribe to MEW in the sense that I get every edition sent to me in the post, I also have access to the digital copies, starting with no. 1 and now ending with no 202, the current one. They don't stop in 2006.
The page I linked to earlier seems to say that if you subscribe to digital editions only, the archive stops in 2006. Presumably you also have access to the editions during the subscription year you have paid for. The page gives the impression that there will be a gap from 2006 and ending when you paid your digital subs.
If in fact there is no gap, it's one of the worst advertisments I've come across. Ads sometimes promise more than you will get, but to promise less seems a bit self-defeating.
|Thread: Semi-dead motor|
10A choc blocks should be OK, provided the motor doesn't get hot enough to soften the plastic. I used 10A ones to connect a cable to a 2HP DC motor (which doesn't get warm). The other end is connected to a speed controller by simple push-on spade connectors. No magic smoke has appeared over the last three years.
Alternatively, search Ebay for "ceramic connector block" , when various possible candidates will appear.
Glad you're up and running again at little expense. As you say, it might even be a permanent repair - did the motor ever get noticeably hot when worked hard for a while?
You might even consider soldering wire directly to wire, having first slipped a bit of heatshrink tube over one of the two so, once a joint is made, you can use the heatshrink to insulate it.
|Thread: gear for an indexing head.|
Michael, we must have gone to different schools. At mine, six times fifteen equalled ninety .
The factors for 60 and 90 are similar; there doesn't seem much point in using 90T rather than 60T unless you are keen to divide by 9, 18 or 45. And as you point out, without a half-tooth detent you would lose 6, 12 and 20.
I suppose that if the construction was such that the 60T could be substituted with gears near in size when required, further divisions you would probably never need would be possible. 63T would get you 7 and 9, 64T would allow 8 (that might be useful), 16 and 32, 65T would give you access to 13 and 66T would cater for 11, 22 and 33.
|Thread: Semi-dead motor|
Well, it needn't be choc blocks. If physically possible (in the sense that there's enough spare wire) a lump of wood with woodscrews through the connectors which need to be mated would work, though the screws shouldn't stick out of the back of the wood in case of -zap!-
I suppose that' would be breadboard construction at its simplest.
But from the photos, it looks like only one connection has blown. The rest of the discolouration may just be magic smoke condensate. Try connecting the loose red wire to the wire it mates with and leave all other connections in place. Maybe use a short screw and nut through the two connectors, and plentiful insulating tape.
If I were you, I'd experiment, taking careful note of what connects where and to what else, then wire the whole thing up with chocolate block connectors and give it a brief trial run. If it works OK, then all you need is a connector block which is more heat-resistant than a choc block.
If uncertain about working with mains voltages, ignore what I just said, but if you can wire a plug you should be OK.
|Thread: Metric Mini Lathe Leadscrew|
Not to my knowledge, John, and I think it's because the diameter is too large for the lathe. Sieg do a 127T for the C4, which is probably Mod 1 with the same bore and keyway as the C3, but there isn't room for it.
I suppose a pair of transposing gears, one being 127T, could be made up in Mod 0.6 or 0.7 (or a similar size DP) and used in conjunction with the rest of the change wheels.
You can get tolerably close to metric threads using an imperial leadscrew with the standard gear set, as this calculator shows.
|Thread: Milling Machine Vertical Spindle?|
Though the Rishton was of UK manufacture, I believe that the Myford VMC was bought in from Taiwan.
Looking at pics of Rishton millers,nearly all the weight of the head and motor seems to be forward of the column, which might cause the head to "nod" a little. Be interesting to know if it gets more and more out of tram as the head is raised.
Edited By Andyf on 13/04/2013 00:52:03
|Thread: Metric Mini Lathe Leadscrew|
Though I've never owned a 7x minilathe, I know a fair bit about them because, for reasons known only to the Almighty, I'm one of the moderators of the largely US based 7x12 Yahoo Group.
The imperial leadscrews on both the Sieg and Real Bull 7xs are 16 TPI, and the metric ones are 1.5mm, which is in the same ballpark.
Though described as imperial, the only imperial thing about them is the leadscrew; the feedscrews on the slides and tailstock are 1mm pitch and the dials work on the approximation that 1mm = 40 thou. There is an exception in that those sold in the US by Micromark have "true inch" feedscrews.
If you want to switch from an imperial to a metric leadscrew, Machine Mart sell a kit for about £30, part no. 060720720, though it's currently out of stock.
The Chester Comet is a larger lathe - I think it's an 8 x 18 in American terminology - and the metric version has a 2mm leadscrew. It's probably a safe bet that the version sold in the US is 12TPI.
|Thread: What did you do today? (2013)|
Returning to Paul's (Windy's) intimations of mortality a few posts back, my suggestion would be, if he has an engineering-minded friend, to suggest to his executors (or next of kin if he has no will) that they contact that person and get him to sell the stuff in return for a decent commission on a site like this or JS's Homeworkshop.org.uk.
Of course, if Paul lives alone in rented accommodation which has to be cleared quickly, this isn't much help.
|Thread: Lathe turning tools|
I know of an elderly gent in the US who will for $30 plus shipping (which would probably be $$$ to the UK) send folk a set of 1.5" or so square section lengths of wood, with the ends shaped as per toolbits, so that those new to the grinding game have a 3D model to copy.
There might be a pocket-money business opportunity there for someone on our side of the pond. the faces could be marked 1, 2, 3 ... in order of grinding, and it might be possible to add some indication of angles, too.
Stuff comes out of the dishwasher pretty clean, in my experience.
I've put some pretty mucky items through it from time to time, though I haven't cleaned iron or steel that way in case the hot water and air give it a slight rust coating.
|Thread: A usefull tool?|
Oops! I've just clicked on the Further Info link.....
Should have realised, 'cos the table is flat, with nothing to secure the radial arms in which the jaws run.
Other than that, it's pretty plausible.
Dunno if it's an April Fool trick; they seem to be selling it online here.
|Thread: New (to me) small, old lathe; how to proceed?|
The Flexispeed/Simat sems to have evolved into the Perris, which after Brian Perris's death appeared virtually unchanged as the first Cowells. That has evolved into the present day Cowells 90ME, with few changes to the basic unit.
Cowells say that the 90ME is powered by a motor of only 90W output, though I think they may use good quality Parvalux motors. My smaller lathe is a Perris, but I can't work out the ratings plate on its Fracmo induction motor. It says 240V, 1.8A, which works out to 432W. But it also says 1/12 HP, which implies 62W output. Either it's a very lossy motor, or should read 1/2 HP, which equates to around 373W output. That seems more likely, given 432W input..
In parenthesis, if the Simat with an M14x1.5 spindle nose was father to the Perris, it's odd that the latter used 1/2 x 20 UNF. Cowells changed it back to M14x1.5 and later to M14x1.
That book also covers making a treadle stand - basically, a sewing machine base, with the big pulley operated by the crank weighted up with concrete around the rim for a flywheel effect.
However, as the leadscrew seems to run in a solid nut on the saddle, rather than disengageable half nuts, such a flywheel might make stopping in the right place a bit tricky.
|Thread: Which vice?|
My OED (the 20-odd volume one that needs a strong shelf to itself) gives both spellings, but says "vise" is now usual only in the US. The earliest quotation it cites is from 1500 as vise, but all the later ones use vice.
The word is perhaps connected with "device", and was (also in the 1500s) used to denote any mechanical contrivance, usually incorporating some sort of screw, .The word, in various spellings, was used in the 1300s to mean both a spiral staircase and a sort of winch to crank up crossbows and catapults.
Well, Bill, you did ask.......
|Thread: BV25 Lathe?|
So it is. 202 dropped through my letterbox an hour ago.
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