Here is a list of all the postings Mike Poole has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Shaver blade refills|
Might need a tidy up for the Mankini
|Thread: Gripping stuff and a free book........|
Harold Hall has some designs for low profile clamps on his web site and books, l think they were also in MEW.
Just opened Russell's link and found he was ahead of me!
Edited By Michael Poole on 16/11/2016 16:48:26
|Thread: The Alternate Glossary|
I had to laugh when a chap called one of the modules of a robot control system the FM box ( f****n magic)
|Thread: cheap digital vernier calipers.|
A straight edge is a curve of infinite radius
|Thread: The Alternate Glossary|
TLA is my favourite for three letter acronym
|Thread: Scary stuff you can buy on the net|
I can vouch that Bakers Fluid is an acquired taste but I would put whisky in the same class. Read the Amazon reviews of Barrentine meths for a good laugh.
|Thread: Thrust washer|
As it is now a long time since BSA made motorcycles or parts for them we are into pattern parts for supply, these range from as good or better than original to simply not fit for purpose. Thrust washers on motorcycles can be used for various purposes, some will take a continuous thrust load but others will have more of a shim role where they control any tendency for end float but don't have a continuous load. Often in a gearbox the washer will be bronze and be pegged to stop it rotating against the shell of the gearbox which would wear too quickly. If you have the original part and it is worn or damaged then a fair guess can be made about the original dimensions and material. There will often be some part of the original that is not worn so a dimension can be measured. If it is a steel washer then it will need to be made from a hardenable steel and ground or lapped to size after hardening. A bronze washer will often have a small hole to fit a peg in the casing to prevent the washer rotating and wearing the casing. A bronze washer will often have additional grooves to allow lubrication to reach the thrust areas. If you come up against a particular item that is missing or requires replacing then a picture of the part or the parts list number could help the bike friendly members come up with a useful suggestion. Membership of the relevant owners club can be very useful, they usually have a technical committee member who will know the answer or the right person to ask.
Edited By Michael Poole on 11/11/2016 18:06:51
|Thread: Anyone with experience of Myford 71 Vice|
The corner on mine is not sharp either, a small parallel beneath or a thin packer behind could solve this. Mine is flat but as you see it is a lightly made device so enthusiastic tightening will tend to distort the body. I made some button headed screws to screw into tee nuts but be very careful about the length, if you make them too long they will burst the tee slot when the screw bottoms out, this is bad practice but I am aware of the risk and it has not been a problem. You could machine an undercut to remove the radius but this would create a stress point and may cause failure. It will help to prevent distortion if the vice is bolted down with all four bolts before tightening the work. At the end of the day this is a light but useful piece of equipment and can also be useful mounted on the faceplate for turning. Myford and others do make a heavier but still small vice for vertical slide work.
|Thread: Iron Ring|
A guy I worked with quite fancied the idea of a tungsten carbide wedding ring, after seeing a few pictures of de gloved fingers he went off the idea, not good in the electrical trade anyway.
|Thread: RE: Tony Hicks Electrical Safety Letter in MEW 248|
In the Workshop Practice book on electric motors is is recommended that to prove a circuit is isolated it is shorted with a screwdriver. I struggle to think this is a good idea, if the circuit is still on, it is going to damage the screwdriver and maybe eject molten bits of screwdriver or terminal. I do not think the short test proves the circuit is dead anyway, all you have proved is that there is no circuit between whatever you have shorted out. If you do not have the means or knowledge to test for isolation should you really be working on electrical equipment?
I have met plenty of people who think they know what they are doing, these are the people who are probably most at risk. There is no shame in asking if you are uncertain and people with the knowledge should give freely and not ridicule someone for not knowing.
As a control engineer in a major car factory we were a placement for apprentices in their third year. Out of interest I started to ask them if they knew how to isolate and test a piece of equipment, most would say yes they had done it during their training but when challenged to demonstrate they usually floundered. Many would fall at the first hurdle and suggest using a multimeter for the exercise then struggle to describe or demonstrate the full test. I accept that in a modern highly automated factory this is something they will do infrequently but the consequences of not getting it right are severe so should be well understood. I have had a few electric shocks over the years so I don't necessarily practice what I preach but I was usually doing something where I knew that the risk was present so they were not entirely a surprise but still unpleasant.
|Thread: Cromwell lathe|
Interesting that they had Ward Leonard speed control on a small machine, must have been a significant component of the high price of the lathe. Strangely the thought of building a Ward Leonard control went through my mind a few days ago but compared to a flux vector inverter it would cost a lot. I have worked on a number of machine tool control systems that used Ward Leonard speed control, one was a big Stirk planer and a couple of Droop and Rein NC milling machines.
Do the lathes mentioned in the thread still have their WL control?
|Thread: Fridge problems|
Had a problem with a Miele fridge freezer but the symptoms were slightly different, the fridge was too warm, when the service guy came as it was under warranty he found the duct in the freezer where the fridge fan pulled the cool air from was iced up so could not pass air to fridge. Repair was to replace the sensors and control board, no testing just replace all possible parts, sounds like Johns solution is of a similar nature, just change everything which isn't actually very much.
Plenty of wildlife round my way, most days foxes, badgers, pheasants and pigeons line the side of the roads, muntjacs are also fair game for the car. Crows and magpies like to play chicken and usually survive. I hit a crow on the bike one day on the way to work, first job of the day was wiping crow giblets off my gloves and leather jacket, they don't smell too good. Used to be lots of flat hedgehogs but they seem rare now.
|Thread: Removing 2MT chucks etc|
As morse tapers are such a shallow angle they do not self release, the application of a drawbar very quickly makes them extremly tight. The only way to remove safely is to make an ejector that is part of the spindle. I have the same dilemma with my Myford lathe, the Rodney drive is by a morse adaptor and drawbar and this only needs the lightest of tightening or it needs a firm tap or two to remove. So far I do not have a solution but the bearings have survived up until now but I now rarely use the attachment. Removing any tooling from the spindle involves a tap or two and is the accepted method of removal. Myford did make collets with a screw ejector and tightening nut which works well but is not cheap.
I had my appendix removed when I was about 17 and was in a ward where a guy was having his second leg amputated due to gangrene caused by smoking related circulation problems, my father died at 59 from smoking related heart and circulation problems, I watched a Deaf School gig where one of the singers carried his oxygen onto stage, he has sadly passed away now. My youngest son is now a vaper he didn't listen to the good advice that it is easier not to start than give up.
I have a X drive BMW which seems to have astonishing grip but I don't think the power of it is likely to trouble the amount of rubber it has on the road, they do seem to have a bit too much especially when it snows.
|Thread: Screwed shank end mills|
The three long collets are nothing to do with the clarkson system but as you say they will take the screwed shank type of cutter as long as it is a fit for the collet. The screwed shank will be of no benefit but will not be a problem as long as the collet has a good length of plain shank to grip.
Here is a selection on cutters on shanks different from the cutter size, as you see some are larger than the shank. Clarkson Autolock chucks of all types use the same basic collet sizes but the actual collet design did change with the different models.
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