Here is a list of all the postings Keith Long has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Replacement Paint Cans|
Peter - have a look at the following link - http://www.paint-tin.co.uk/shopping_cart/index.php?_a=product&product_id=27 - just the first one that I came to. You might do better if you search for "plastic pails" it looks as though that's what the industry calls them.
No connection or experience of the company in the above link.
Clickable link added.
Edited By John Stevenson on 06/08/2016 12:33:42
|Thread: Power Feed to Milling Machine Table|
Jonathon - I use one for powering a small cross slide mounting milling/drilling spindle, works quite well. You could also use one to power a small tool-post grinder.
Here again - another MAJOR drawback with a sewing machine motor is that generally they aren't reversible as they use offset brushes, you buy them as clockwise or anti-clockwise rotation. Also having opened one up to try accessing the leads I quickly gave up on that idea, as the only way I could see to do what I wanted, would have virtually destroyed the motor and connections.
|Thread: Access to drawings for G.H Thomas design sheetmeatal rollers|
PM sent - check you forum "Inbox"
|Thread: 7/8whit eye bolt|
I don't have one but they are in the Cromwell tools catalogue.
|Thread: Bearing /oil seal fitting tolerance|
Just put "fits for bearing housings" into Google and you'll come up with pages of information. The first "hit" I get is for SKF. You'll need to read through it and open the various pdfs that they have. Fit can depend on whether its the shaft that rotates or the housing and what loads in what directions are applied - it literally ISN'T a case of one size fits all. Oil seal will be more tolerant but a similar search shoud come up with the goods as well.
|Thread: have 4:1 from 3000rpm dropping down to 750 rpm what gears to get 600rpm|
One point no-one's picked up on so far - if you're looking to get the lathe top speed at 600 rpm then you should be doing so with the SMALLEST diameter pulley of the three (?) on the lathe spindle not the largest - that's for the slow speed.
Martin - have a look at the following web-page - http://www.gizmology.net/pulleysbelts.htm - on that you'll see that for a V belt the pitch line is fairly close to - but not the same as the outside of the belt. Have a look at the Gates belt website as well. There are belt calculators on there that you can run on-line and when you put in the information about your drive it will tell you what belts are suitable as well as working out centre distance, ratio etc.
It looks as though your lathe only has a single pulley on the spindle - if so that will limit what you can do as you need to alter the spindle rpm to suit the job in hand. The speed that you're trying to get is pretty much the maximum that your lathe will stand. The lathe when Drummond built it would have had 3 different diameter pulleys on it, driven from 3 pulleys on the treadle. Drummond's recommended speed for the counter-shaft for a A type (round bed) is 250 rpm with the cone pulleys on that and the lathe spindle giving spindle speeds of 125, 250 and 500 rpm. If you are now looking at installing a counter-shaft then see if you can get a speed change facility through that as without it you'll be limiting yourself to the work that the lathe can cope with.
|Thread: grayson lathe rebuild|
Even easier - if you have the correct drive for the Grayson gears - is to drill a hole in the Myford gears to accept the Grayson pins. From the lathes.co.uk website early Myford gears (ML1 &2 era) used pin drive rather than a key anyway.
|Thread: Uploading photos on forum album|
Bob, click on "All Topics" just under this post, then choose "Website FAQs" - first topic heading as it's a "sticky".
|Thread: Calculating Epicyclic/Planetary gear ratio|
Rainbows - why are you looking to use 4MOD gears - those are enormous for the back gearing on a lathe. Drummond back gears are 14 dp - about 1.5 MOD and those are OTT. Myford back gears from what I read on here are typically 20 dp or approx 1.25 MOD. Forget the 285 Nm theoretical max. torque. If you succeed in getting that then assuming that you're still looking at a 30mm dia spindle, then you'll probably be be looking for a new spindle because the one you're using will have snapped or something else will have done. Step back from the design and do a reality check and look to see what other lathes of a similar size use.
I've just re-read your original post, and seen that your talking about a 25mm dia spindle at 285 Nm that certainly will snap or the tread that hold the chuck will! The Drummond lathes are 1 inch spindles so the same size to all intents and purposes. When folk break back gears on the Drummonds it's because they try and use the back gears to lock the spindle while they change the chuck, certainly not through cutting forces. On a lathe with a 25mm spindle I doubt that the tool post and tool would be able to generate that torque without failing or tearing out of the top or cross slide.
Edited By Keith Long on 18/05/2016 16:39:56
Hi Rainbows - no it's not you, looks like there is a mistake in the text (what a mistake in an old copy of ME - never!!). I think the formula should read j/d : j/d - h/b
Not sure where that leaves the calcs in the spread sheet as I can't remember what I put in there - it was quite a time ago.
The fancy fonts and the rather strange section line through the main pulley do take a bit of getting used to.
Edited By Keith Long on 16/05/2016 12:04:23
Info sent to those members who requested it - don't forget to check your "trash" "spam" or "junk" folders if it doesn't appear in your "inboxes"
Edited By Keith Long on 15/05/2016 10:31:16
PM me your e mail address and I'll send you a pdf of the article. The other good news is that all the gears in it are normal spur gears, no internal ring gears involved at all.
Rainbows, see if you can locate a copy of Model Engineer 1st April 1915. In there is a design for a epicyclic back gear, originally meant for a Drummond round bed, but applicable to any lathe with room in the inside of the main pulley, or could be adapted into a separate cassette fitted to the pulley. The article is by Bower-Lowe, and includes the formulae for calculating the gear ratios. The design works, I've got a version of it ready to fit to a round bed of about the same vintage as the design.
|Thread: How to seal a lathe headstock|
One thing I'm wondering is whether 30mm dia. is really adequate for a 150mm centre height lathe. At that size I'd be expecting 30mm minimum as the through bore. My IXL at that centre height has a 2" dia. nose thread for the chuck so I'm guessing at 2" min dia. for the spindle at the nose end (the lathe takes a 4.5MT adaptor)? If you hope to use the lathe at it's capacity remember chucks that size are getting very heavy as just a dead weight.
Also the seal arrangement as you've redrawn it is beginning to give a significant overhang to the nose of the spindle, mounting a chuck on a backplate will push the load further outboard even before you start adding the work piece.
Just my thoughts.
|Thread: Drummond M Headstock and Bed|
Unless there is excessive play in the bearings I'd leave well alone with the headstock apart from washing the bearings through with the diesel while turning the spindle by hand.The bearings are designed as a total loss system so you should flush any muck through as well. The first step would be to clean any debris from the oiling holes as you don't want that to go through the bearings. When the diesel comes though freely and is clean switch to a light oil - the 32 grade hydraulic oil from Machine Mart is fine, but you might already have something suitable that you use your other machinery.
Taking the headstock apart isn't difficult, but there are things to watch out for with setting the bearings back up again. You should find information about that on the Yahoo Drummond group, not sure if it's in the files section or whether you need to search for the relevant thread, asking the question there should come up with an answer for you.
Wolfie - is item 130742885849 on E-Bay anything like you're looking for?
|Thread: Thread ID|
Giving us the diameter would help, but probably 1/2in. UNF (20tpi) one of the two common standards for replaceable chucks on electric drills.
|Thread: The International Brotherhood of Drummond/Myford M-Type Owners|
M type - lead-screw 8 tpi (1/8 in. pitch stated in the manual)
Drummond round bed lathe - lead-screw 10 tpi Whitworth form ie 3/4 in BSW.
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