Here is a list of all the postings Keith Long has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Engraving Myford ML7 Tailstock Barrel|
Dave, Geoff & Norman - You'll find the description for graduating the tail-stock barrel in "Lathe Devices" by Ian Bradley and Norman Hallows rather than in "The Amateurs Workshop".
|Thread: Metal combinations for plain bearings|
Robin - rather than using bronze for the bushes I think I'd go for one of the plastics, ptfe, oilon, acetal, delrin, etc. so they can run un-lubricated. The operating environment for them is likely to be very abrasive with clay dust. The dust will tend to embed into the softer material and wear the harder one away so yes make the axles from stainless. 304 will be OK if you can get the diameter that you want, if you envisage machining the axles at all 303 is much easier to work with. The original combination of brass on brass isn't recommended, most bearing systems work much better with different metals for the axle and bushing. I think you did well to get 2 years especially if they were getting used much by youngsters.
|Thread: Myford ML10 backgear|
Neil - have a look at the ML10 pages on the www.lathes.co.uk website, it will tell you what you need to know about the lubrication.
|Thread: Where to buy module one gears?|
Andrew you could also try Technobots - look for the "industrial steel gears" - quite good prices if they are of suitable dimensions.
|Thread: Motor connection|
Gerry - a word of caution, the DOL that Clarke sell is NOT an NVR switch. It is mechanically locked on so that if the mains fails the contacts actually stay in the made position with the result that the motor WILL restart when the mains comes back on ie it's no different in function to an ordinary on/off switch apart from having the over-current device built in. If you want a starter that gives you the NVR protection, look in the Toolstation or Screwfix catalogues. Machine Mart's reason for stating that the motor must be connected through a DOL starter is to have it connected to the mains through an over current protection device, to save the motor being run at overload an burning out. Both Toolstation and Screwfix sell the over-current protection devices separately and you choose the one that suits your motor.
|Thread: Mystery Lathe tool, any ideas?|
Looks very similar to one I've got which happens to be a drill chuck - rather an old one.
|Thread: Myford thread dial bolt size|
Perhaps I could add a note of caution to the debate about whether a thread indicator ever needs to be brought out of mesh. I have a (fairly) large lathe awaiting setting up and restoration - an IXL Leader gear head machine, 6in centre height 40 in between centres. One of the jobs that will need doing is making a replacement for the thread indicator drive gear as about a third of the teeth have been ripped off. Now the indicator shaft is free to turn, and I've done nothing to it, so it was presumably free to turn when the teeth got damaged. The only thing I can think that has caused the problem is swarf getting caught between the gear and the lead screw while the lathe saddle was being traversed by the power feed - this lathe has separate lead screw and power feed shafts. Now on a lathe with just the lead screw I'd expect the operator to notice the extra drag from a jammed indicator gear if they were traversing the saddle by hand, but it might depend on how intent they were on the actual job rather than the operation of the machine.
I'll never know for certain what caused the damage to my machine, but don't assume that damage cannot occur.
|Thread: Mystery bearing 1759X|
Rainbows - check your measurements again and also measure the bearing in imperial units, it looks as though it could be a standard 0.875x2.125x0.9125 inch taper roller set - £27.21 each + vat from Simply Bearings.
|Thread: Help with ultrasonic cleaner|
Even worse - that type of european plug doesn't have provision for a fuse. The cleaner will be relying on a unit mounted mains input fuse if it's got one, but being of German manufacture I'd be very surprised if it didn't have one.
Hi Todd, welcome to the forum.
I can't help with any info on the cleaner but the mains plug (the round one) is a standard 230 volt single phase ac plug as used in continental Europe - well certainly in Spain anyway. The live and neutral go to the round pins and the earth to the side contact. In Spain the plug will go into the wall socket either way up so it's pot luck as to whether the on/off switch on the unit winds up switching the live or neutral. If you are changing the plug try and find out which of the wires from the plug goes to the switch and make that the live connection. You may find that both wires go to the switch which would then be a double pole device switching both live and neutral, and then you'd have no worries which side you connected to live.
|Thread: Drummond Shaper|
Hi Chris, I can't help with details of how to do it but you should try asking on the Drummond lathes Yahoo group, there are quite a few folk on there who either have, have had or have got knowledge about the shapers and can give you the info that you need.
|Thread: Drummond 4" roundbed changewheel pins.|
Andrew, I've just checked one of my round bed gear wheels taken at random with the following results.
One hole is tapered and the other plain. The plain hole in my case comes out at 4.9mm which probably means a number 10 drill, but it won't cause any problems if you use a 5mm drill - the pins are a very loose fit in the plain hole. The tapered hole is for a 3/16 in. taper pin which being imperial will have a 1 in 48 taper, metric pins have a 1 in 50 taper. Again in reality I don't think it will affect their use if you opt for metric pins of an appropriate size - probably 4mm as metric pins are sized on the smaller end whereas imperial pins are sized at the the larger end. I gather imperial pins are difficult to obtain now so you might have to go the metric route anyway - unless you fancy making your own!
The length of the pin overall came out at 1.11 in, probably would be specified as 1 in. as the domed ends are NOT included in catalogue lengths, but that is likely to be variable as tapping the pins in and out of the gears tends to flatten the ends anyway. You really only need the pin to be a bit less than twice the thickness of the gear as if it's any longer there's a danger of it catching on the banjo when you're trying to drive a compounded pair if it sticks too far through the second gear.
If you stick to those sizes then there shouldn't be a problem with using your gears with any other "original" Drummond gears - at the age of the machines many of the gears around could well be "modified" as well as worn anyway.
|Thread: Need To Help Four Stroke Combustion Engine on 3D model|
Tim in Jon's 3D model the starter is labelled item 20 with the starter solenoid as 19.
Muzzer and Michael, I think while there are some superficial similarities to the Merc power unit, from following the link that Neil found to the origin of the model and looking at some of the internal details I'd be very surprised if Mercedes had any input to the model at all. As I said earlier - a 24 valve engine with only 12 push-rods, and each of those operating 2 valves by pushing on a bridge piece attached to the stem each of the valves. That would put an appreciable side load on the valve stems, which in turn would give quicker guide/stem wear, so considering that Mercs are known for reliability it would seem a very odd design decision.
The cylindrical item the OP asked about is not only belt driven but the crank pulley seems to be spaced off from the crank by a vibration damper or similar, so another level of disconnect to what appears to be some sort of oil pump - surely not a satisfactory solution for a real engine as opposed to a design concept.
Jon - some of the other points of that engine look a bit odd as well - 4 valves but only 2 push rods per cylinder with the vales actuated in pairs by a bridge piece that the rocker arm bears on. As you said, if the cylindrical part is the oil pump then external drive seems very odd (what happen if the belt breaks or comes off - it's been known?) and unless the engine is very low revving would be going a a heck of a speed with subsequent high power consumption just to push the oil round, as well as the possibility of inducing foaming in the oil - which you don't want.
You could be in danger of showing your would be learners some dodgy engineering I think.
|Thread: Salt shaker|
|Thread: Changewheel ID sought please|
I don't think that they're Drummond gears, the spec. for those is 14dp and have 2 holes - at least all of the ones I have (a LOT) , might be early Myford ML1-4 possibly?
|Thread: Vertical Mill|
Curtis there is a plan on this website for the conversion of a cross vice to a vertical slide. If you do an internet search for "vertical slide plans" you'll come up with a load of suggestions for the job.
|Thread: Coupled Wheel Geometry (Fusion 360)|
Looks like a perfectly permissible action - what you're missing is the set of coupled wheels on t'other side of the loco chassis with the quartering across the axle.
|Thread: Drummond Round bed lathe|
Hi Andrew - your easiest option is to keep a look out on E-Bay for Drummond change wheels they come up regularly. They are fairy distinctive - the two pin holes being a bit of a give away, OK I know other lathes used a similar system but Drummond wheels out number those. Drummond gears are the same fitting for the early flat-bed lathes, round-bed, type B and the M type so plenty to look out for.
There were 2 different sets designated for the round beds depending on the age of the lathe. Pre 1925 lathes the full set was 20T (2 off), 24T, 28T, 32T, 36T, 40T,44T and 64T, with 25T, 35T, 45T, 50T and 63T as "extras" for metric threads. The post 1925 lathes had a different set of wheels, being 20T (2off), 25T, 26T, 30T 35T, 40T (2 off) 45T, 50T and 66T - this set will do both imperial and metric threads. It doesn't matter which set you build up really as both sets will work happily on round beds of any age.
If you haven't already done so it would be a good idea for you to join the Yahoo Drummond lathe group. Plenty of keen owners there willing to share advice, a host of photos of members lathes and a very useful set of files with information on the various Drummond lathes.
My experience in buying Drummond wheels is that generally they cost no more than those for a Myford or a Boxford - often less as they tend to be less popular and sought after, and you avoid the hassle of having to make them fit. Beware that some sellers seem to think that they are gold plated at least if not solid gold with the prices that they ask, but it's a bit like missing the bus, there'll be another one along soon so you don't have to jump in and pay silly prices if you don't want to.
|Thread: Newby asking question.|
Richard - you should find this lathe (link) in the Axminster catalogue, looks to be very similar to the Grizzly one mentioned above.
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