Here is a list of all the postings Keith Long has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Dore-Westbury drawings.|
Bill if you've only just joined the DW group it may be that your membership has not yet been approved, I seem to remember that it was a few days delay when I joined. I can confirm that there are a load of files in that section so worth hanging on for, but can't guarantee that the info that you're after is there.
|Thread: Heavy liquids - eg Bromoform|
Tim - try following this link it should take you to a downloadable pdf and I think the info you're after is on page 25. It looks as though the fluid could be available from folk who stock spares for old (1930s) Fords, I've seen references to suppliers in the USA but I don't know whether you'd be able to get it over here though.
|Thread: GearTrain Troubles Chester Coventry Lathe|
The module and DP tables are for producing worms to mesh with either module or DP gears.
|Thread: Help Wanted|
Macc Models have 7mm od brass tubing listed with a 0.45mm wall thickness - about £2.68 for a 300mm length. No doubt other model engineering suppliers and model shops stock it as well. I think the K&S metal tubing has a thinner wall but again a possible source.
Edited By Keith Long on 19/09/2017 23:15:29
|Thread: Help me Obi-Wan_Knobi, you're my only hope!|
Hi Dave try following this link
towards the bottom you should see two headings "Steel model gears" and "Industrial grade gears", you might well find what you're after in there at much better prices than from the specialist gear suppliers.
I'm just a customer of theirs and have been very happy with what I've bought from them - small gears and motors!
|Thread: Metric coarse threads confusion|
The table on this page shows the max and min diameters for NOMINAL metric bolt sizes. I believe that the reduction from nominal size is to allow a metric bolt to pass through a drilled hole of the same nominal size to ensure a closer fit than the often recommended clearance sizes which often tend to be a bit generous.
|Thread: Ups and downs in the workshop|
John MC - 2 things come to mind with your proposed winch.
1. Is the 800kg the "rolling load" that the winch is suitable for or the line pull? Trailer winches are often specified by the rolling load and the maximum line pull is usually about 1/3rd of that.
2. Trailer winches usually have a ratchet that only works in one direction - reeling in - so that when you are lowering the only thing stopping a run-away is your hand! Lifting winches are designed to be self sustaining, ie take your hand off the handle and the winch and load doesn't move.
If you look on the Indespension website - here - and follow through to the winch specs, you'll see that it states quite openly that the winches are not regarded as suitable for lifting applications.
On the same website have a look at the trailer "work" winches - here - these are quoted as being suitable for lifting applications as they have automatic ratchet mechanisms - higher cost though.
Edited By Keith Long on 11/09/2017 12:01:58
|Thread: Linisher cuts out, what to do...?|
The manual I was looking at was the download suggested in the Axminster catalogue (on-line). The wiring diagram is on page 16, shows what I take to be fuses (12A) in the live and neutral legs feeding the machine. A 13 amp fuse certainly shouldn't cause any problems, that's the minimum I'd be using for a 3kw machine on a normal 240v single phase supply. The motor could well be trying to draw several times its full load current briefly on start up so be prepared for the 13 amp to pop as well!
I see it did!!!
Edited By Keith Long on 26/08/2017 16:21:15
What is the rating of the fuses that you keep blowing? Can you pull the belt over by hand, or have you tried starting up with the belt tension off?
There seems to be a discrepancy between the blurb in the catalogue that suggests a 10 amp fuse and the wiring diagram in the manual that suggests a 12 amp fuse. If the full load power is 3kw and the voltage is 230 volt then that is 13 amps continuous. Looks like you should try a heftier (but not silly big) fuse. It's most probably the initial start up current that's popping the fuses.
|Thread: Tow bar wiring loom|
I've just been quoted £750 for fitting on a Skoda Superb estate, 5 hours labour so not a quick job. As others have said the on board electronics have to be dealt with as well and having checked with my insurers it is regarded as a notifiable modification. Not really worth the hassle of diy with everything taken into account. I would agree with the others as well about the plugs 13 pin and use an adaptor if you need 7 pin - or rewire the trailer to use 13 pin.
|Thread: Toolmex chuck problem?|
Andrew - have you actually checked the register on the backplate for concentricity and diameter, and also checked the register in the back of the chuck for the same. Unless you do, anything you think may be happening from the front view will be just a guess.
You need to go from first principles.
|Thread: Vintage German Lathe offer|
Except that it's about twice the centre height and twice the between centres capacity - about 6in. x 40in.
Richard please pass on the information below it might help with the sale.
- the lathe was made by the Ehrlich company in Germany - that's their logo in the top left corner of the bronze plate with the screw cutting data. You'll find some information about it on the www.lathes.co.uk/ehrlich webpage. They were also sold in the UK under the name of IXL (I've got a gear head version), the webpage for that is http://www.lathes.co.uk/ixl/index.html
Good luck with the sale, the lathes don't seem to be well known in the UK though
|Thread: Motor rotation|
Sean - I assume that your motor was a capacitor start machine. I can't tell from your photo what the various wires connect to in your motor, but it's possible that you have got it connected so that the start winding is permanently energised and not being disconnected by the centrifugal switch (or other starting cut out). I suggest you trace ALL the wires out to see where they are going/coming from. Having the start winding permanently connected will result in overheating and burning the winding out.
What you need to do from your original set up is to reverse the polarity of the start winding relative to what it was when you first got it.
I suggest you get hold of the Workshop Practice Series Books no.s 16 and 24 by Jim Cox - Electric Motors and Electric Motors in the Workshop, they will explain just about everything you will need to know.
|Thread: Good Evening from Barnsley|
Hello Ben and welcome - have a look at the www.lathes.co.uk/goodwin web page, looks like there are quite a few similarities between what's shown there and your machine.
|Thread: UK company supplying knobs, handles etc?|
Also worth looking at Berger tools http://www.berger-tools.co.uk/
Edited By Keith Long on 14/07/2017 23:13:11
Edited By Keith Long on 14/07/2017 23:13:49
|Thread: Tooling for Centec2 mill|
Sean - if you've got an arbor (or get one) that is missing it's key then no problem as key steel in both imperial and metric standard sizes is available readily from engineering suppliers in typically 12 inch (300 mm) lengths.
|Thread: Hoffman dividing head.|
Well if you've got a gear (presumably you have if you've been trying DP gear gauges on it) then just measure the O.D. in mm and use:-
O.D.= (no. of teeth +2) x MOD
as a check:-
MOD = 25.4/DP
so a comparison with the nearest DP gauges should give you confirmation.
|Thread: Question about diaphragm material|
Jens - you don't say what thickness of ptfe you need but Direct Plastics list sheet down to 0.25mm. The smallest piece that they show on their website is 300mm square at £1.70 + vat. I would have thought if that material is suitable getting them to post it to Norway should be possible.
I've bought from Direct plastics in the past and found them very easy deal with.
|Thread: Ceramic Ball Bearings|
Mick - look for "ball & condenser lenses"
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