Here is a list of all the postings Keith Long has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Tow bar wiring loom|
I've just been quoted £750 for fitting on a Skoda Superb estate, 5 hours labour so not a quick job. As others have said the on board electronics have to be dealt with as well and having checked with my insurers it is regarded as a notifiable modification. Not really worth the hassle of diy with everything taken into account. I would agree with the others as well about the plugs 13 pin and use an adaptor if you need 7 pin - or rewire the trailer to use 13 pin.
|Thread: Toolmex chuck problem?|
Andrew - have you actually checked the register on the backplate for concentricity and diameter, and also checked the register in the back of the chuck for the same. Unless you do, anything you think may be happening from the front view will be just a guess.
You need to go from first principles.
|Thread: Vintage German Lathe offer|
Except that it's about twice the centre height and twice the between centres capacity - about 6in. x 40in.
Richard please pass on the information below it might help with the sale.
- the lathe was made by the Ehrlich company in Germany - that's their logo in the top left corner of the bronze plate with the screw cutting data. You'll find some information about it on the www.lathes.co.uk/ehrlich webpage. They were also sold in the UK under the name of IXL (I've got a gear head version), the webpage for that is http://www.lathes.co.uk/ixl/index.html
Good luck with the sale, the lathes don't seem to be well known in the UK though
|Thread: Motor rotation|
Sean - I assume that your motor was a capacitor start machine. I can't tell from your photo what the various wires connect to in your motor, but it's possible that you have got it connected so that the start winding is permanently energised and not being disconnected by the centrifugal switch (or other starting cut out). I suggest you trace ALL the wires out to see where they are going/coming from. Having the start winding permanently connected will result in overheating and burning the winding out.
What you need to do from your original set up is to reverse the polarity of the start winding relative to what it was when you first got it.
I suggest you get hold of the Workshop Practice Series Books no.s 16 and 24 by Jim Cox - Electric Motors and Electric Motors in the Workshop, they will explain just about everything you will need to know.
|Thread: Good Evening from Barnsley|
Hello Ben and welcome - have a look at the www.lathes.co.uk/goodwin web page, looks like there are quite a few similarities between what's shown there and your machine.
|Thread: UK company supplying knobs, handles etc?|
Also worth looking at Berger tools http://www.berger-tools.co.uk/
Edited By Keith Long on 14/07/2017 23:13:11
Edited By Keith Long on 14/07/2017 23:13:49
|Thread: Tooling for Centec2 mill|
Sean - if you've got an arbor (or get one) that is missing it's key then no problem as key steel in both imperial and metric standard sizes is available readily from engineering suppliers in typically 12 inch (300 mm) lengths.
|Thread: Hoffman dividing head.|
Well if you've got a gear (presumably you have if you've been trying DP gear gauges on it) then just measure the O.D. in mm and use:-
O.D.= (no. of teeth +2) x MOD
as a check:-
MOD = 25.4/DP
so a comparison with the nearest DP gauges should give you confirmation.
|Thread: Question about diaphragm material|
Jens - you don't say what thickness of ptfe you need but Direct Plastics list sheet down to 0.25mm. The smallest piece that they show on their website is 300mm square at £1.70 + vat. I would have thought if that material is suitable getting them to post it to Norway should be possible.
I've bought from Direct plastics in the past and found them very easy deal with.
|Thread: Ceramic Ball Bearings|
Mick - look for "ball & condenser lenses"
|Thread: Engraving Myford ML7 Tailstock Barrel|
Dave, Geoff & Norman - You'll find the description for graduating the tail-stock barrel in "Lathe Devices" by Ian Bradley and Norman Hallows rather than in "The Amateurs Workshop".
|Thread: Metal combinations for plain bearings|
Robin - rather than using bronze for the bushes I think I'd go for one of the plastics, ptfe, oilon, acetal, delrin, etc. so they can run un-lubricated. The operating environment for them is likely to be very abrasive with clay dust. The dust will tend to embed into the softer material and wear the harder one away so yes make the axles from stainless. 304 will be OK if you can get the diameter that you want, if you envisage machining the axles at all 303 is much easier to work with. The original combination of brass on brass isn't recommended, most bearing systems work much better with different metals for the axle and bushing. I think you did well to get 2 years especially if they were getting used much by youngsters.
|Thread: Myford ML10 backgear|
Neil - have a look at the ML10 pages on the www.lathes.co.uk website, it will tell you what you need to know about the lubrication.
|Thread: Where to buy module one gears?|
Andrew you could also try Technobots - look for the "industrial steel gears" - quite good prices if they are of suitable dimensions.
|Thread: Motor connection|
Gerry - a word of caution, the DOL that Clarke sell is NOT an NVR switch. It is mechanically locked on so that if the mains fails the contacts actually stay in the made position with the result that the motor WILL restart when the mains comes back on ie it's no different in function to an ordinary on/off switch apart from having the over-current device built in. If you want a starter that gives you the NVR protection, look in the Toolstation or Screwfix catalogues. Machine Mart's reason for stating that the motor must be connected through a DOL starter is to have it connected to the mains through an over current protection device, to save the motor being run at overload an burning out. Both Toolstation and Screwfix sell the over-current protection devices separately and you choose the one that suits your motor.
|Thread: Mystery Lathe tool, any ideas?|
Looks very similar to one I've got which happens to be a drill chuck - rather an old one.
|Thread: Myford thread dial bolt size|
Perhaps I could add a note of caution to the debate about whether a thread indicator ever needs to be brought out of mesh. I have a (fairly) large lathe awaiting setting up and restoration - an IXL Leader gear head machine, 6in centre height 40 in between centres. One of the jobs that will need doing is making a replacement for the thread indicator drive gear as about a third of the teeth have been ripped off. Now the indicator shaft is free to turn, and I've done nothing to it, so it was presumably free to turn when the teeth got damaged. The only thing I can think that has caused the problem is swarf getting caught between the gear and the lead screw while the lathe saddle was being traversed by the power feed - this lathe has separate lead screw and power feed shafts. Now on a lathe with just the lead screw I'd expect the operator to notice the extra drag from a jammed indicator gear if they were traversing the saddle by hand, but it might depend on how intent they were on the actual job rather than the operation of the machine.
I'll never know for certain what caused the damage to my machine, but don't assume that damage cannot occur.
|Thread: Mystery bearing 1759X|
Rainbows - check your measurements again and also measure the bearing in imperial units, it looks as though it could be a standard 0.875x2.125x0.9125 inch taper roller set - £27.21 each + vat from Simply Bearings.
|Thread: Help with ultrasonic cleaner|
Even worse - that type of european plug doesn't have provision for a fuse. The cleaner will be relying on a unit mounted mains input fuse if it's got one, but being of German manufacture I'd be very surprised if it didn't have one.
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