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Member postings for Keith Long

Here is a list of all the postings Keith Long has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Can you ID this vintage lathe?
24/01/2021 09:04:02

It looks very reminiscent of a Drummond 5 inch, particularly the heavily T slotted cross-slide, see

Thread: Flexispeed fixed steady
17/12/2020 15:42:49

Geoff personal message sent, please check your account inbox.


Thread: Identify linisher part
16/12/2020 15:40:58

Adrian - looking at the pictures in your link it says Reg'd Trademark cast above and below the name LINISHER. Using Linisher as a trademark in a search at the Intellectual Property Office comes up with 4 references. 3 of them are for Turner Machine Tools Limited, 63-68 Princip Street, Birmingham, 4, United Kingdom and are dated 1st Oct 1913, 30th April 1929 and the third which includes the word "OSCIMATIC" is dated 23rd May 1968.

One other reference comes up but the word changes to "Finisher", that is owned by Gühring KG, Herderstr. 50-54, Albstadt, 72458, Germany and is dated 11th March 2020 so very unlikely to be anything to do with your machine part.

Personally I'd look to see what I could find out about Turner Machine Tools. The status of all the Turner references is "dead" so I guess the company no longer exists although the IPO representative name is given as Barker Brettell LLP, 100 Hagley Road, Edgbaston, Birmingham, B16 8QQ, United Kingdom, who might have some information about the company as a last resort

Hope that's of some help.


Edited By Keith Long on 16/12/2020 15:42:08

Thread: Drawing Projections
11/12/2020 14:01:01

I think you'll find that in land measurement the " A R P " refers to Acres, Roods (not rods) and Perches, the ration being 40 Perches = 1 Rood, 4 Roods = 1 Acre.

Where I used to live in the West Midlands (used to be part of Worcestershire) there was an location Rood End, I'm not sure whether it was named after the land measure or had ecclesiastical connections as in rood screen.

Thread: Boat hull formula
07/12/2020 13:54:15

Bob if the tug that you are building is a scale model of a full size actual tug, look up the displacement of the full size vessel (internet search) and divide by the cube of the scale factor that you are building to, that will give you the weight that your model needs to be to float at the design waterline. If your model comes out lighter than that figure then you'll want ballast, if heavier then you might be better trying to loose some of the weight before you go too far. If the model is only slightly heavier than the "scale design" figure then don't worry too much, tugs can benefit from sitting a bit deeper to make sure that the propeller has enough water to "bite" on. Too much weight and then you're building a submarine!

Thread: Reverse Sewing Machine Motor?
05/12/2020 13:08:37

It doesn't matter whether it's series or shunt wound, you still have to reverse the field in either the stator windings or the rotor relative to the other to get the reverse rotation. In the last month I've been through this exercise with a series wound dc motor (ex car fan blower) to enable reversing by just swapping the input leads. That required a full wave bridge between the rotor and stator windings to get the necessary field inversion in the stator. I believe that Taycol motors (amongst others) used a wound field and had a 2 pole reversing switch that did the necessary reconnection of either the rotor or stator winding as required.

04/12/2020 10:57:35

Hi Buffer - to reverse that motor you'll need to do it inside the motor - and you probably won't be able to get at the connections inside without destroying the motor, as everything seem to be moulded in - been there and gave up when I realised what I'd need to do! If you can access the brushes there is a good chance that you'll find that they are offset to favour the running direction so they won't be at all happy if you do manage to reverse the motor. Sewing machine motors of that type are generally built for single direction rotation and are sold as being set for clockwise or anti-clockwise rotation. Y

Your options would seem to be buy another motor that goes the way you want or re-jig the motor mountings so that you get the rotation that you need on the spindle. If you mount the motor slightly skewed then you can just use a crossed drive belt to get the rotation direction that you want. That would also give you the option of bi-directional rotation if you ever need it.

Don't believe everything that see on the internet, I think older motors CAN be dismantled and reversed but the newer ones are made using modern techniques and materials to keep the price down. Reverse on a sewing machine is a mechanical operation to keep the timing right through the needle shuttle interaction, rather than just driving the whole machine backwards.

Edited By Keith Long on 04/12/2020 11:03:44

Edited By Keith Long on 04/12/2020 11:04:57

Thread: Article on profile tooling for a lathe?
23/11/2020 21:04:27


I think the following thread on here might be the one that you're after -

Particularly the postings by "Nobby" where he shows how he uses a template.

Thread: My first lathe, a restoration project
08/11/2020 22:01:17

Hi Liam, I don't know if I'm reading you correctly but it sounds to me as though you're thinking of possibly using the B-type for wood turning as one of the options. If so you need to be aware that the headstock bearings on the B-type are only good for an absolute maximum of 1000 rpm - and that's pushing it. The lathe was originally meant for foot treadle operation where the max speed would have been about 500rpm - a bit slow for woodturning I'd suggest -I've tried it!

Thread: Marshall Portable Engine
01/11/2020 20:55:20

Paul - pm sent.


Thread: First workbench, for an ML7 lathe
27/10/2020 15:35:28

William, both those benches that you linked to above have the same fault - no diagonal bracing. Without that they are liable to start twisting around under even small loads, I wouldn't want a lathe mounted on top if it started to go. I've got a Clarke bench the CWB 1250 in my garage as a workbench with a vice mounted on it - no machinery. That has sheet metal side panels but even so sawing or filing in the vice had the bench moving and twisting. It was fine once it was fastened to the wall!

As Howard says above, bolted construction will be fine, and it'll be a lot easier to dismantle for moving that a welded bench. Even buying the steel angle from somewhere like B&Q I think you'll break even on the cost and have a better bench.

The top can be made of 12, 16 or 18 mm ply - reasonably easy to cut by hand or get it cut to size by the supplier, the thinner material WILL need support underneath it, but you'll be putting cross beams in under the lathe bolt holes any way - won't you.

On bench design I don't think of the top as support for the machine, that has to be part of the bench structure, the top is to stop things falling through and give you a flat area for the other items that you need while using the lathe. I wouldn't worry too much about a drip tray at this stage but if you want one have a look in the garden centres for either plant pot trays or "grow-bag" trays and put that on the bench top with the lathe in the tray.

Thread: Another Newbie
23/10/2020 15:55:32

Hi Callum, on a Drummond round bed you can forget any threads being UNC / UNF they'll all be BSW / BSF / BA unless someone has altered things in the past.

Thread: drivetrain ratios
10/10/2020 15:39:03

24dp change gears do come up from time to time on EBay, I've bought a number from that source. I think Exe lathes might have used them, but stand to be corrected on that. The gears that I've purchased have has a 7/16 in. bore, but that is pretty easy enough to change.

As Jason says above, 1MOD (MOD1) are readily available and very similar diameter to 24dp, but won't run meshed with them. As well as being available for the various mini lathes they are also available from other sources, particularly suppliers that sell parts for home build robots. One supplier that I've done business with and been happy with their products is Technobots, but I'm sure that there are many more, try checking with bearing suppliers as they usually do other drive train products as well.

Thread: 5BA Threads
24/09/2020 22:31:46
Posted by Martin Kyte on 24/09/2020 22:20:03:

Someone is now going to astonish me with a supplier no doubt.

Yes, Cromwell Tools have them in their catalogue, you might be a bit shocked at how much they cost though.

Thread: Best way to keep nuts tight (ha ha)
03/09/2020 17:14:11

What about using nyloc nuts the friction from the nylon insert should stop them moving but still allow easy spanner adjustment. Cheap as chips and easily replaced if they do start to move by themselves

Thread: Should and what with should Sherline threads be lubricated?
01/09/2020 15:02:32
Posted by Chris TickTock on 01/09/2020 14:44:40:What the name for that force is maybe someone can put me right?



Thread: Can anyone identify this tool please
26/08/2020 14:07:42

It looks like an aid to centring a bar in a 4 jaw chuck. A rod like a scriber would be held offset in the collet so that the short end could engage a centre pop in the end of the work and the other end left to "waggle" around in space. Then as the work is centred in the chuck so the the centre pop runs true the "waggle" at the free end reduces. The offset / unequal projections is to give you a magnified indication of the centre pop run out. Pre dates the ready availability of cheap dti's etc and could be made up by the machinist himself. would also be a good exercise for an apprentice to make up as part of building up a tool kit.

Thread: Mystery Inspection Item
15/08/2020 13:52:34

Why not try e-mailing the Mahr UK office in Milton Keynes and ask them what it is?

Thread: Large left hand tap
13/08/2020 19:10:33

Bill - I'm looking at designing some grinding wheels hubs myself at the moment ,and I'm using the William Sopko catalogue (or catalog as it's an Americam firm) for inspiration. They list some hubs suitable for reversing applications. Their method is to thread the wheel retaining collar either right or left hand according, presumably, to it's normal running direction, but them they drill and tap radially into the edge of the retaining collar and fit a couple of nylon tipped grub screws. They can be nipped up to lock the retaining collar against unscrewing in "reverse" rotation. For routine "reverse" running you might want to fit more grub screws as "belt and braces", but it could mean that you can use a normal RH tap at a much more sensible cost than the LH version. If you follow this link it will take you to the Sopko website and the reversible hubs.



Thread: Myford Mod
07/08/2020 00:35:46

Quick retract for screw-cutting as in GHT's Model Engineers Workshop Manual

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