Here is a list of all the postings Keith Long has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: drivetrain ratios|
24dp change gears do come up from time to time on EBay, I've bought a number from that source. I think Exe lathes might have used them, but stand to be corrected on that. The gears that I've purchased have has a 7/16 in. bore, but that is pretty easy enough to change.
As Jason says above, 1MOD (MOD1) are readily available and very similar diameter to 24dp, but won't run meshed with them. As well as being available for the various mini lathes they are also available from other sources, particularly suppliers that sell parts for home build robots. One supplier that I've done business with and been happy with their products is Technobots, but I'm sure that there are many more, try checking with bearing suppliers as they usually do other drive train products as well.
|Thread: 5BA Threads|
Yes, Cromwell Tools have them in their catalogue, you might be a bit shocked at how much they cost though.
|Thread: Best way to keep nuts tight (ha ha)|
What about using nyloc nuts the friction from the nylon insert should stop them moving but still allow easy spanner adjustment. Cheap as chips and easily replaced if they do start to move by themselves
|Thread: Should and what with should Sherline threads be lubricated?|
|Thread: Can anyone identify this tool please|
It looks like an aid to centring a bar in a 4 jaw chuck. A rod like a scriber would be held offset in the collet so that the short end could engage a centre pop in the end of the work and the other end left to "waggle" around in space. Then as the work is centred in the chuck so the the centre pop runs true the "waggle" at the free end reduces. The offset / unequal projections is to give you a magnified indication of the centre pop run out. Pre dates the ready availability of cheap dti's etc and could be made up by the machinist himself. would also be a good exercise for an apprentice to make up as part of building up a tool kit.
|Thread: Mystery Inspection Item|
Why not try e-mailing the Mahr UK office in Milton Keynes and ask them what it is? -firstname.lastname@example.org
|Thread: Large left hand tap|
Bill - I'm looking at designing some grinding wheels hubs myself at the moment ,and I'm using the William Sopko catalogue (or catalog as it's an Americam firm) for inspiration. They list some hubs suitable for reversing applications. Their method is to thread the wheel retaining collar either right or left hand according, presumably, to it's normal running direction, but them they drill and tap radially into the edge of the retaining collar and fit a couple of nylon tipped grub screws. They can be nipped up to lock the retaining collar against unscrewing in "reverse" rotation. For routine "reverse" running you might want to fit more grub screws as "belt and braces", but it could mean that you can use a normal RH tap at a much more sensible cost than the LH version. If you follow this link it will take you to the Sopko website and the reversible hubs.
|Thread: Myford Mod|
Quick retract for screw-cutting as in GHT's Model Engineers Workshop Manual
|Thread: Change chuck on a seig c0?|
Stewart I suggest that you follow this link to the manual which you can download.
|Thread: ER32 Spin indexer - tightening and loosening the collet nut|
Bill-talk to the lads at ArcEuro, they've got the 4 point spanners for both ER32 and ER40 listed.
|Thread: Boxford model A gears|
No, Drummond used 14DP with 14.5 deg PA.
|Thread: Buying first lathe|
Jacob, from what I can see in your pictures that lathe isn't a ML4 or any other sort of true Myford lathe but it looks VERY much like a Drummond "M" Type - the knock off bar along the front is a bit of a give away as I believe they were never fitted to Myford designed lathes but very much a Drummond feature. Where you may be getting confused is that during World War 2 Myford made Drummond M Type lathes under licence at first but later the rights to the design were assigned to Myford by Drummond. So you can have :
1.a Drummond M type completely manufactured by Drummond
2. a Drummond M type assembled by Myford from parts that were transferred to Myford fromDrummond
3. a Drummond/Myford M type assembled from parts made by Myford to Drummond designs
4. A Myford manufactured lathe built to the Drummond M type design but incorporating modifications introduced by Myford.
About the only way to check that is to find the serial number on the bed (tail-stock end) and check that with the files on the Drummond lathes io group.
Yes the end of the spindle is damaged, the thread should be at least twice as long as that.
So long as the important parts of the lathe are in good order then you should have a very competent machine when you get it set up, they have a very good reputation.
|Thread: Inserted cross slide feed nuts|
Possibly getting right and left hand mixed up?
|Thread: Liquid shim (or similar)|
Some of the metal filled epoxies by the likes of Devcon sound to be what you're after- but they won't be cheap.
|Thread: Pulley Sizes For An X2 Clone Conversion|
William, look at the page in your link, there are 3 boxes on the right hand side, "Description", "Technical" and "Reviews". Click on the technical box and it tells you the minimum pulley pcd there. Also you can down load the full Optibelt catalogue from www.optibelt.com which will give you all the information that you need - as well as a load that you don't!
Edited By Keith Long on 22/06/2020 12:40:35
|Thread: M Type Apron Direction|
Dave - assuming that your M type is the same as mine then the hand wheel is secured by a through taper pin. Some careful cleaning and light filing might expose the end of the pin opposite the bit that you've found. From memory it's quite a small diameter pin 3/32in. or thereabouts comes to mind. It should just "tap" out but could be tight if it hasn't been moved since the lathe was built.
|Thread: Hello I am from Aylesbury|
Hi Jerry - on my round bed I made sure that the bolt that secures the bed into the head stock is done up properly, but I leave the bolt that secures the bed to the tail support loose so that the bed can find it's own location in the tail support. Then just put hold down bolts through the 4 feet. Not had a problem with that arrangement even though the lathe is on a wheeled cabinet on an uneven floor. So long as the bed retains its relationship to the headstock the rest can float a little. Your are unlikely to able to induce twist in a 3 inch diameter cast iron cylinder without a lot of effort!
|Thread: Hello from West Sussex, looking for ID for my first lathe|
Yes, the lathe with the cylindrical cast iron bed.
James,3/4in. x10tpi (3/4 in.BSW) is the same nose thread used on the Drummond round bed lathes,so by keeping a look out on EBay and other sales site you might well be able to pick up chucks and faceplates that will fit straight onto your lathe without having to do any machining or modifying.
|Thread: Repair advice, please!|
Bill, pm sent.
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