Here is a list of all the postings Keith Long has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Change chuck on a seig c0?|
Stewart I suggest that you follow this link to the manual which you can download.
|Thread: ER32 Spin indexer - tightening and loosening the collet nut|
Bill-talk to the lads at ArcEuro, they've got the 4 point spanners for both ER32 and ER40 listed.
|Thread: Boxford model A gears|
No, Drummond used 14DP with 14.5 deg PA.
|Thread: Buying first lathe|
Jacob, from what I can see in your pictures that lathe isn't a ML4 or any other sort of true Myford lathe but it looks VERY much like a Drummond "M" Type - the knock off bar along the front is a bit of a give away as I believe they were never fitted to Myford designed lathes but very much a Drummond feature. Where you may be getting confused is that during World War 2 Myford made Drummond M Type lathes under licence at first but later the rights to the design were assigned to Myford by Drummond. So you can have :
1.a Drummond M type completely manufactured by Drummond
2. a Drummond M type assembled by Myford from parts that were transferred to Myford fromDrummond
3. a Drummond/Myford M type assembled from parts made by Myford to Drummond designs
4. A Myford manufactured lathe built to the Drummond M type design but incorporating modifications introduced by Myford.
About the only way to check that is to find the serial number on the bed (tail-stock end) and check that with the files on the Drummond lathes io group.
Yes the end of the spindle is damaged, the thread should be at least twice as long as that.
So long as the important parts of the lathe are in good order then you should have a very competent machine when you get it set up, they have a very good reputation.
|Thread: Inserted cross slide feed nuts|
Possibly getting right and left hand mixed up?
|Thread: Liquid shim (or similar)|
Some of the metal filled epoxies by the likes of Devcon sound to be what you're after- but they won't be cheap.
|Thread: Pulley Sizes For An X2 Clone Conversion|
William, look at the page in your link, there are 3 boxes on the right hand side, "Description", "Technical" and "Reviews". Click on the technical box and it tells you the minimum pulley pcd there. Also you can down load the full Optibelt catalogue from www.optibelt.com which will give you all the information that you need - as well as a load that you don't!
Edited By Keith Long on 22/06/2020 12:40:35
|Thread: M Type Apron Direction|
Dave - assuming that your M type is the same as mine then the hand wheel is secured by a through taper pin. Some careful cleaning and light filing might expose the end of the pin opposite the bit that you've found. From memory it's quite a small diameter pin 3/32in. or thereabouts comes to mind. It should just "tap" out but could be tight if it hasn't been moved since the lathe was built.
|Thread: Hello I am from Aylesbury|
Hi Jerry - on my round bed I made sure that the bolt that secures the bed into the head stock is done up properly, but I leave the bolt that secures the bed to the tail support loose so that the bed can find it's own location in the tail support. Then just put hold down bolts through the 4 feet. Not had a problem with that arrangement even though the lathe is on a wheeled cabinet on an uneven floor. So long as the bed retains its relationship to the headstock the rest can float a little. Your are unlikely to able to induce twist in a 3 inch diameter cast iron cylinder without a lot of effort!
|Thread: Hello from West Sussex, looking for ID for my first lathe|
Yes, the lathe with the cylindrical cast iron bed.
James,3/4in. x10tpi (3/4 in.BSW) is the same nose thread used on the Drummond round bed lathes,so by keeping a look out on EBay and other sales site you might well be able to pick up chucks and faceplates that will fit straight onto your lathe without having to do any machining or modifying.
|Thread: Repair advice, please!|
Bill, pm sent.
Also looking at the drawing of the offending item it bears a strong resemblance to a pipe "T". You'd have to check sizes but a "black" (not galvanised) malleable pipe T might make a good starting point as possibly would a suitable sized KeeKlamp (or similar)T. If you have plumbers merchants or scaffolding contactors nearby it could be worth having a word to see what they can offer as a starting point.
The other thing I'd be looking at would be to get rid of the split casting clamping arrangement and to change to a proper split cotter system, much less chance of breaking things.
|Thread: Chipmaster vfd|
Sean the plate on the vfd says 0-240v, 0-400 HZ not 400 VOLTS.
|Thread: Boxford missing a Nut|
More likely 1/4in BSW (20tpi)
|Thread: Oilite (type) bush fitting|
Nick a 5 second search on the internet came up with this link from the makers themselves.
|Thread: Hello and... have you got any parts for this...|
Hi Richard, yes I'm a Drummond lathe owner (several) but none of that model I'm afraid.
Have you joined the io groups Drummond group yet https://groups.io/g/drummondlathe lots of helpful folk on there and often you find someone has the bit that you need.
There were at lease a couple of versions of the headstock bearings for that model but I'm pretty sure they were all solid bronze bushes pulled into tapered housings, but the means of pulling changed during the run of that model.
If the lathe isn't totally worn out you should be able to make the new bushes from bronze stock on the machine itself, you'll just need the dimensions. Someone on the Drummond group can probably tell you that straight off.
|Thread: Fixing a ball to a govenor arm|
Henry try this thread - **LINK**
|Thread: Adhesive for rubber sheet?|
Tim, it might be worth having a word with your local flooring contractor.
I build scenery fora local theatre and one of our "go-to" adhesives for bonding textiles to timber is actually a flooring latex adhesive "Styccobond F1" which is VERY similar to Copydex but about £20 / 5 litres so much cheaper. I'm not recommending that particular adhesive as the makers, F Ball, in Leek, do whole range for the flooring industry and their recommendation depends on flooring backing material as well as the substrate material and the environment - they do have marine applications covered as well.
F Ball have a " recommended adhesives guide" which you can down load - here - that will give you some idea of what would suit your application, but a chat to your local contractor would certainly be worth the time.
|Thread: Using Smith Little Torch|
Section 8-9 onwards of the torch user's manual (Using the torch with alternate fuel gasses) is quite clear. Para 8-10 (Extinguishing the flame) 1 turn off the oxygen, 2 turn of the fuel gas.
Why would you not follow the makers recommendations, they probably know far more about the safety aspects of the torch than anyone putting up a YouTube video.
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