Here is a list of all the postings Baz has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
I found one in North Devon many years ago, it was in the window of an antique shop in Coombe Martin, a little seaside village, the shop owner didn’t have a clue what it was and wanted ten quid for it, in as new condition, needless to say money quickly changed hands.
|Thread: Cylinder Cladding|
I have used a broom handle to bend cleaning sheet around with great success, if you must fill the central void Balsa wood stuck in place with Araldite will offer support and a bit of insulation. Work out where any bends go and do those first and then roll it around a broom handle or bit of steel bar, size is not too important, make it a bit undersized and it will spring on, far easier to do than describe.
|Thread: cutter slippage using ER series collets|
If the cutter moves in an ER system it is not done up tight enough, industry use ER all the time movement up or down is totally unacceptable, as mentioned elsewhere the cutter holders are dropped into a bench mounted holder so they can be tightened. Avoid holding cutters in R8 collets unless you have a power drawbar and even then keep your eye on it, I know that sometimes we have to use R8 to get sufficient clearance but go a bit slower and check a bit more often. I am fortunate in having a Clarkson chuck and a good selection of cutters and if clearances allow I prefer to use it, it may be old technology but it works!
|Thread: Myford vfd|
I can thoroughly recommend Newton Tesla’s package, can be easily fitted in under an hour and is a joy to use. Usual disclaimer applies.
|Thread: Kennedy Hexacut 90 Power Hacksaw|
Brian, thanks for the info, I purchased one of these saws brand new about 30 years ago, if memory serves me correctly it came from the old Reeves and was eye wateringly expensive, it was used to cut 5/8 dia stainless tube to length, I remember that I stuck rubber sheet onto the jaws because the tube couldn’t be marked, after machining it was sent away to be polished. I never really liked the saw but never had time to investigate it, the work increased and the job got subbed out and the saw got slung under the bench, and has sat there unused since. I will dig it out and see if I can get it going. I am pretty sure that it took a lot longer than yours to cut also I cannot remember any blade tensioning device, just two clamps and the blade wobbled around as it cut.
Which way do these saws cut, on the forward or back stroke?
|Thread: Small Scale CNC work required, any takers?|
The Myford drive train should be powerful enough for multiple cutters but i would imagine you would need a proper arbor and tailstock support, might also be an idea to cut your material in half lengthwise and put one piece on top of the other, that way you would double the amount you are cutting.
|Thread: Screw cutting is over complicated|
Mick B1, you haven’t worked in the places I have.
Vintage engineer, you beat me to it, but in a toolroom not setting the topslide to half angle would get you either sacked or demoted to production work!
|Thread: Recommendation for Tool and Cutter Grinder|
Neil I agree wire edm is a better process for making small tools, an optical profile grinder would also be a better process but how many model engineers have access to such equipment, I suppose we all do via a local engineering company, but at what cost, assuming they can be bothered with some old codger and his fag packet sketches. I feel that the average model engineer is better to stick with equipment such as the worden, quorn, Clarkson and the various designs of grinding rests. A relative newcomer is the acute sharpener from eccentric engineering, this system allows the tool it to be advanced into the wheel against stops, something grinders like the Clarkson lack.
|Thread: PayPal Warning|
Oldiron I couldn’t agree more, quite happy to name PayPal by name but not Ebay.
|Thread: Working leaf springs|
Junior hacksaw blades would be worth a try, I think I would mill the teeth off with a carbide cutter. Holding the hacksaw blade in the vice will act as a heatsink and perhaps an air line or plenty of coolant to keep the temper. Any holes could also be done with a carbide milling cutter.
|Thread: To Pin or Not To Pin|
Where has religion been mentioned?
|Thread: Working leaf springs|
When I was an apprentice, more years ago than I care to remember, the tool room foreman was building LBSCs Virginia, most of it being done in company time of course and one at he came back from lunch with a bag full of small steel tape rules, narrow ones about 3/16 to 1/4 wide, longtime ago so cannot remember size exactly. He got me to remove the cases and then he dipped the steel tape in chemiclene and set fire to it, this removed all the graduations etc and left a nice strip of spring steel. I was then presented with drawings to make a tool to cut and radius the ends and to punch an oblong hole in the ends, I think he used a couple of Tufnol leaves but it made beautiful leaf springs.
|Thread: Brazing torch|
Bill, I use oxy propane with a very similar torch and I usually use about 5 psi propane and between 3 - 8 psi oxygen.
|Thread: Repair required for Milling Knee|
I think I would first off go and have a chat with the local foundry and see if they could use it as a pattern to cast a new one, then explore brazing it back together.
|Thread: Decent Demagnetiser?|
Plus one for Eclipse
|Thread: Painting and Finishing|
I agree with Martin, also Chris Vine was spraying a large loco with, I believe HVLP equipment. It would be nice to have an article centred around the smaller model, perhaps 3.5 gauge loco, small traction engine etc sprayed with an airbrush, going into detail about what airbrush, what compressor etc and also going into preparation regarding primers, fillers etc, a big ask I know but there must be someone out there who could do it?
|Thread: John S and Adam's CNC Crankshaft code|
JasonB, I have a copy of the code but at present I am in sunny Devon on holiday. When I get home you are more than welcome to a copy of it.
|Thread: Knurling wheels (for the Hemingway Sensitive Knurling Tool)|
Why not purchase the correct knurling wheels from Hemmingway, just checked and they are still advertised and cost less than twenty quid the pair
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