Here is a list of all the postings Baz has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Turnbuckle manufacture|
As well as Drill Service (Horley) and Tracy Tools there is also The Tap and Die company who do a range of left hand threads.
|Thread: Odd thread|
11/32” x 40tpi gets my vote.
I agree with Jason, SAE660 silver solders well.
|Thread: A finished project - at last!|
Absolutely beautiful, did the Arnold Throp design go on to become the Southworth range of engines?
|Thread: Re-grinding 2 MT Socket|
If it were mine I think I would try the morse taper reamer, if the spindle taper is damaged it cannot be that hard, a HSS reamer should be harder, what have you got to loose, only a morse taper reamer and they are easily and fairly cheaply replaced. You don’t say what make of machine it is, if it is still in production could you just buy a new spindle?
|Thread: ME magazine late again|
I am still waiting for mine in North Hampshire, let’s hope it’s not lost mailbags like it was a couple of years ago.
|Thread: CAM software for CNC Lathes - With C axis and constrained live tool|
Joseph I wouldn’t worry about the space taken up by the CNC programme, far more space is wasted on this forum by pointless discussions on what lathe is best, what lathe do I need, comparing Myford to Chinese etc etc.
|Thread: Clarkson Radius Grinding Fixture|
Ian Armstrong, you have a PM.
|Thread: Bar size and dies|
10 x 1.25 pitch can be truncated down to a diameter of about 9.8mm dia, that will make threading with a die a little bit easier.
|Thread: Warco UNIVERSAL TOOL & CUTTER GRINDER v Quorn Mk 3|
Another possibility is the Acute sharpener from Eccentric Engineering.
Best wishes to everyone wherever you are in the world for a better 2021.
|Thread: Clarkson Radius Grinding Fixture|
Clarkson instructions are very vague, they seem to assume everyone using the equipment is a professional cutter grinder and just needs a simple drawing of what goes where. The instructions for the basic machine at least include a list of standard parts so you know what you have and what you are missing but the radius attachment and drill grinding attachment booklets don’t, so as Noel says you may have an important part missing and not know about it.
Noel, I will photograph my threaded sleeve tomorrow and mail it to you.
Phil I am a bit late coming to this discussion due to Christmas jobs for her who must be obeyed. Regarding your sketches you are correct that winding the table nearer the wheel reduces the radius. The correct way to use the radius grinding attachment is to set the tool as in your initial setup illustration and then touch the end of the tool onto the grinding wheel. The table is then locked and the tool is advanced into the wheel by using the threaded sleeve that fits into the aluminium block. The cutter to be ground is held in a standard holder with a collar in front and behind the ally block / sleeve assembly so the tool can be rotated. A finger is mounted in the usual fashion to locate and index the cutter.
|Thread: A Christmas Conundeum - to Case Harden or not to Case Harden?|
Chris I can answer your last question, how easy is case hardening, very easy indeed, plenty of info on here in other posts on how it’s done.
|Thread: Calor gas butane workshop radiant heater|
For the sake of twenty quid you could buy a carbon monoxide alarm and put in the workshop, when the alarm goes off turn the heater off and get out fast!
|Thread: Which Laptop|
Peter, if you can afford it upgrade to a new machine, life is too short.
|Thread: Milton Keynes Metals?|
Bought some chainsaw oil for the lathe at the beginning of the year because I had run out of the proper stuff, Magna 68. I cannot notice any difference between the two. I don’t think it really matters what you use, as long you use something, don’t run the slides dry, except of course for cast iron. The chap in the mower place told me that the local tree surgeons had given up using proper chainsaw oil because it is too expensive and now they buy sunflower oil from the local supermarket.
|Thread: Colchester MK1 Bantam|
Rob I don’t think you can adjust the ejection point, I think it is fixed by the end of the barrel thread. Only way that springs to mind is to shorten the tang on whatever tool you are using.
|Thread: Steinel Bench Milling Machine|
Is it a mill, is it a jig borer? Call it what you like, what’s in a name, it’s what it can do and more importantly what you can do on it that matters.
|Thread: Holbrook 10B|
Ady1 except for the B8 which has steel headstock bearings front and rear and has small oil cups on the front of the headstock.
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