Here is a list of all the postings Baz has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Recommendation for Tool and Cutter Grinder|
Neil I agree wire edm is a better process for making small tools, an optical profile grinder would also be a better process but how many model engineers have access to such equipment, I suppose we all do via a local engineering company, but at what cost, assuming they can be bothered with some old codger and his fag packet sketches. I feel that the average model engineer is better to stick with equipment such as the worden, quorn, Clarkson and the various designs of grinding rests. A relative newcomer is the acute sharpener from eccentric engineering, this system allows the tool it to be advanced into the wheel against stops, something grinders like the Clarkson lack.
|Thread: PayPal Warning|
Oldiron I couldn’t agree more, quite happy to name PayPal by name but not Ebay.
|Thread: Working leaf springs|
Junior hacksaw blades would be worth a try, I think I would mill the teeth off with a carbide cutter. Holding the hacksaw blade in the vice will act as a heatsink and perhaps an air line or plenty of coolant to keep the temper. Any holes could also be done with a carbide milling cutter.
|Thread: To Pin or Not To Pin|
Where has religion been mentioned?
|Thread: Working leaf springs|
When I was an apprentice, more years ago than I care to remember, the tool room foreman was building LBSCs Virginia, most of it being done in company time of course and one at he came back from lunch with a bag full of small steel tape rules, narrow ones about 3/16 to 1/4 wide, longtime ago so cannot remember size exactly. He got me to remove the cases and then he dipped the steel tape in chemiclene and set fire to it, this removed all the graduations etc and left a nice strip of spring steel. I was then presented with drawings to make a tool to cut and radius the ends and to punch an oblong hole in the ends, I think he used a couple of Tufnol leaves but it made beautiful leaf springs.
|Thread: Brazing torch|
Bill, I use oxy propane with a very similar torch and I usually use about 5 psi propane and between 3 - 8 psi oxygen.
|Thread: Repair required for Milling Knee|
I think I would first off go and have a chat with the local foundry and see if they could use it as a pattern to cast a new one, then explore brazing it back together.
|Thread: Decent Demagnetiser?|
Plus one for Eclipse
|Thread: Painting and Finishing|
I agree with Martin, also Chris Vine was spraying a large loco with, I believe HVLP equipment. It would be nice to have an article centred around the smaller model, perhaps 3.5 gauge loco, small traction engine etc sprayed with an airbrush, going into detail about what airbrush, what compressor etc and also going into preparation regarding primers, fillers etc, a big ask I know but there must be someone out there who could do it?
|Thread: John S and Adam's CNC Crankshaft code|
JasonB, I have a copy of the code but at present I am in sunny Devon on holiday. When I get home you are more than welcome to a copy of it.
|Thread: Knurling wheels (for the Hemingway Sensitive Knurling Tool)|
Why not purchase the correct knurling wheels from Hemmingway, just checked and they are still advertised and cost less than twenty quid the pair
|Thread: Things I should know cutting various materials on lathe|
Agree with David Standing 1, buy the recommended books and they will answer all of your questions.
|Thread: Any one recommend a supplier of 1/4 inch lathe blanks|
Arc Eurotrade or Tracy tools sell them, I have purchased toolbits from both companies and have no complaints.
|Thread: Backplate debacle|
If it’s less than a thou undersize just get and use it, don’t bother with loctite etc.
|Thread: Myford crossslide mounted turret|
5/8 or 16mm for the tool holes, cannot help with offset for split cotters but easy enough to work out from a simple sketch. No need to wind cross slide right in just centre turret with 5/8 bar held in collet or chuck and lock cross slide.
Home and workshop machinery sell the proper thing, described as bridge or rifle type, look on their website, I believe they are the remaining stock from the Myford factory. Why bother wasting time making some when the correct thing is available off the shelf?
|Thread: Southworth engines / pumps|
I think Blackgates are now selling the castings.
|Thread: Digital calipers made in same factory?|
I have got Mitutoyo callipers that are years old and still work perfectly, but I also have a couple of pairs from Lidl that I am very pleased with and recently I purchased a pair from Aldi, only because they opened a store near me and I went in for a look around and saw a pile of them and decided you cannot have too many pairs of callipers. Strange thing with the Aldi ones is that they have a button marked l/c on them, when you press this it multiplies the measurement by pi, cannot really see the point and only any use if measuring round bar, but for £8 and a three year warranty who cares, batteries can be got from the pound shop for you guessed it, one pound for a card of about thirty assorted sizes so who cares if they only last a couple of weeks.
|Thread: Is Buying a used live steam loco cheaper than building one?|
In my very humble opinion it is much cheaper to buy something ready built than to equip a workshop and make a loco yourself from scratch. I base this on £1500 for a lathe with a bit of tooling, double that if you want a decent Myford, most probably £1000 for a milling machine, then you will need vices cutters boring heads angle plates, the list goes on and on. I personally enjoy building far more than running plus have been in industry all my life so I know what I need and also know what I am looking at in the way of machinery. It also depends on how much space you have available, a loco can live on a bench in the garage, the workshop will need the whole garage. Please join a club before you do anything and talk to the members, a years club subs is money very well spent.
|Thread: Is your spindle bore large enough?|
Agree with ChrisB, however large the bore you will always want it to be a few millimetres larger.
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