By continuing to use this site, you agree to our use of cookies. Find out more

Member postings for Robbo

Here is a list of all the postings Robbo has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Myford super 7
16/05/2018 14:06:07

Michael

You've set a conundrum and caused some confusion here. From your description of adjusting your lathe clutch it is what is unofficially known as the Mark 1, and the clutch is an expanding horseshoe in a drum machined into the inside of the countershaft pulley cluster. However, you say your lathe is a 1963 model, and Myford stopped fitting the Mk1 clutch in 1958, and moved to the one fitted in the countershaft pulley at the left hand end of the countershaft.

So Dave, with his 1963 lathe, is referring to the latter type. And Rick is now thinking its the ML7 type which fitted on the left hand end of the countershaft.

If you have dismantled and cleaned your Mk1 clutch and the actuating mechanism, then lubricate on reassembly so that the push rod especially moves cleanly, and lubricate the visible mechanism at the clutch operating lever end. A drop of oil "down the hole" before fitting the adjusting screw and the locking screw will lubricate the tapered end of the push rod and the sliding wedge which forces the horseshoe into contact with the drum. Other than that then just keep the countershaft bearing oil cups topped up.

The drag you mention could mean that you haven't cleaned the mechanism and its sticking, or you need a bit more clearance on the adjustment. The wedge on the push rod may have got a bit worn and be sticking.

This drawing may help with the diagnosis.

super 7 mk 1 clutch parts-001.jpg

Thread: Imperial acme threaded rod
03/05/2018 16:28:41
Posted by mgnbuk on 03/05/2018 16:09:36:

If Abssac can't supply, this company **LINK**

were recommended by John Stevenson when this topic was discussed some time ago on this forum. If you go the download page, the standatrd screw products .pdf lists 1/2" 10 tpi LH and RH as stock products.

Nigel B.

Edited By mgnbuk on 03/05/2018 16:09:56

I have had acme feed nuts from Kingston, excellent products. Have recommended them on previous threads. Only problem with threaded rod is their minimum length is 3 feet. sad Another link **LINK**

Edited By Robbo on 03/05/2018 16:29:17

Thread: Warco WM250 back issues
02/05/2018 09:41:31

If you put "warco wm250" in the search box at the top right of the page and send it this will bring a result inviting you to view all Forum entries. This will give you 20 previous threads to look at. That's a start!

Thread: Drawbar
27/04/2018 14:40:53

As ndiy says, check the diameter of the hole through the spindle first. A lot of Myford milling add-on machines were intended to be used with Myford collets, closed by the external closing ring, and had a small hole through the spindle.

When I wanted to fit a drawbar on an Amolco machine it had to be fitted from below and the collet put in after it as the hole was too small to take an M8 thread.

Thread: Would you like to own EVERY SINGLE Model Engineer edition ever published?
25/04/2018 23:32:26
Posted by Raymond Sanderson 2 on 24/04/2018 22:29:20:

I've known people who would go that far staples bent open every page removed scanned or back then photo copied and all returned to the same staples ever so neatly.

That's what I do when I want a complete article from a magazine. Even preview each page to make sure it is neat!

I thought OCD meant One Careful Driver.

Thread: Department of Work and Pensions
21/04/2018 09:48:51

The 25p age addition was introduced in the same year as decimal currency, so all the old folk then would regard it as "five bob" (5 Imperial shillings), which was actually worth something. 47 years later its not a lot!

20/04/2018 16:32:36
Posted by Rik Shaw on 20/04/2018 16:08:52:

Brian - I think I might be tempted to return the first 20p coin to Mr. DWP with instructions to insert it in his inter-gluteal cleft and take a running jump without dropping it.

Rik

Now that reminds me of a game we used to play in Rugby Clubs, but using a handful of (old) pennies and an empty tankard.

Brian - 4 years to go for me. but that news will spur me on!   Suggest you make a pile of your 20p coins, add one each week, and see how old you are when it falls over.

 

Edited By Robbo on 20/04/2018 16:37:48

Thread: Can you help ID these parts please
20/04/2018 14:53:08

Linky :- **LINK**

Thread: Refurbed myfords
07/04/2018 22:48:35

Noticed that the lathe is described as "New" - perhaps they should read the eBay definition of New.

Thread: Chinese End Mill Sharpener
07/04/2018 14:23:28

If you search through your LINK you can eventually find this rather poor .pdf.

**LINK**    

Edit - ignore this, when I looked back my post above had disappeared, so assumed I'd forgotten to send it - this may have happened in the past  sad

Do this one and the first re-appears.   Ain't technology wonderful.

Edited By Robbo on 07/04/2018 14:28:30

Thread: Renovating an old steam engine and boiler
07/04/2018 14:01:15
Posted by Thomas DION on 07/04/2018 11:47:09:

Thanks ! I'll dig into that !
BTW here are the badly taken pictures of the thing (and another old machine) :
https://imgur.com/a/HhMwS

As you can see it had been badly damaged and repaired. I'll work into that too one day or another

Link to pics - **LINK**

Thread: Chinese End Mill Sharpener
07/04/2018 13:55:06

If you search through your llink you can eventually come to this. You may have to paste into your browser if it doesn't convert to "LINK"   Edit - it did convert to link, it wouldn't do it in my draft.

**LINK**

Edited By Robbo on 07/04/2018 13:56:30

Thread: How to paint aluminium
06/04/2018 08:06:47

Try this previous thread - **LINK**

Thread: April fools 2018
01/04/2018 14:35:26

Adam put a good one on homeworkshop.org.uk , I suppose he felt he had to make it obvious by signing it "Lirpa Loof"

otherwise there would have been some jumping about.

Thread: Myford cabinet, no clearance for mounting nuts?
01/04/2018 08:20:01

CJ

The standard mounting bolts have a different length of thread at each end, so try putting the bolt in the other way round. The short thread is normally the top one which goes through the lathe bed foot. The bolts are only just long enough to do the job when fitted correctly.

Thread: Cup wheels
30/03/2018 09:26:37

This Clarkson chart might help

clarkson grinding wheels-001 (custom).jpg

Thread: Myford Super 7 Power X Feed Query
28/03/2018 23:07:06

The manual in this link, recently featured in a thread, covers power cross feed versions of Super 7.

**LINK**

28/03/2018 19:09:01

Martin

The basic advice is DON'T UNSCREW the feedscrew from the feednut, but bring the slide forward so the front is level with the saddle, then remove the screws holding the feednut to the front of the slide, then the screws holding the end bracket, and remove the whole lot together. The drive gear will be on the feedscrew behind the feednut.

If you unscrew it from the feednut then you will lose the drive gear and it will be a bugger to get back.

Thread: Carborundum (silicon carbide) grinding wheel
28/03/2018 11:33:10
Posted by John Paton 1 on 27/03/2018 09:22:11:
Posted by Robbo on 26/03/2018 22:09:12:

 

Now that is an arragement I really like - why did I not think of it! With the addition of whetstone wheel for joinery tools and wire brush and mop wheel my grinding alcove is a bit congested and this is an excellent solution. Will make a nice welding project to do a suitable steel frame.

This one made out of 18mm melamine faced chipboard reinforced with oak fillets and left over from a kitchen construction was intended as a prototype to test the feasibility of the idea. So there are some bare edges where it has been adjusted (ie bits sawn off). However it works so well that a "proper" one has never been made.

It has been in use for 15 years + and is plenty rigid enough for the weight of the top grinder and the light loads imposed when sharpening tools.  As it is for sharpening turning chisels very little metal is removed so mess is minimal.

Edited By Robbo on 28/03/2018 11:35:08

Thread: New 2.5" motor pulley
28/03/2018 11:19:15

If you slacken off the motor base so the motor can move up and down, then just let the belt take the weight of the motor and tighten the base fittings at that setting the tension should be fine

There should be a little slack evident if you squeeze both sides of the belt between finger and thumb. If the belt slips at this setting, tighten it up a bit.

If the correct belt was fitted originally then its adjustment will easily cope with the larger pulley.

Magazine Locator

Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!

Find Model Engineer & Model Engineers' Workshop

Latest Forum Posts
Support Our Partners
cowells
Rapid RC
Eccentric July 5 2018
Eccentric Engineering
Dreweatts
Subscription Offer

Latest "For Sale" Ads
Latest "Wanted" Ads
Get In Touch!

Do you want to contact the Model Engineer and Model Engineers' Workshop team?

You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.

Click THIS LINK for full contact details.

For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.

Digital Back Issues

Social Media online

'Like' us on Facebook
Follow us on Facebook

Follow us on Twitter
 Twitter Logo

Pin us on Pinterest