Member postings for Robbo

Not Braime's. They had brass pump and nozzle, handle a different shape. And name stamped into the sliding lid.

But can't say what brand it is.

Deric

Have sent you a PM

This thread on the Spiralux grinding device might be of help - **LINK**

John

The "cwl20rv" is the type number of the lathe to which the motor was fitted (ClarkeWoodLathe20(probably 20" between centres) Reversible Head Variable speed) The speed control was a mechanical one of tapered pulley type.

So the motor is probably not reversible. Take the cover off the connection box and if there are only 2 terminals plus earth then it isn't. If there are 4 terminals and 2 pairs are linked then it is. You might be lucky!

Mike

The Popular Mechanics magazine with the relevant article is Nov 1949, you can find it in the US Archive, you want file page number 228 - 232.

Link to the magazine in the Archive - **LINK**

Mike

I have never seen any instructions for the Little Giant grinder, but have an old article from Popular Mechanics (1949) which used the South Bend version as an example. I'll try and look it out.

Meanwhile you can find the instructions for the Dumore series 14 toolpost grinder, which is a similar size, here - **LINK**

A look at this old thread might be of help - **LINK**

Ian

The bushes in question on the Super 7 were originally specified as "Oilite". What may have been changed over the lathe's life is another matter

As Martin says, take the tension off the belt by moving it to a smaller pulley. If you can't move it then slacken off the tension adjusting screws on the swing head. Then see if the tension lever works and the motor runs

Edited By Robbo on 10/07/2018 15:04:51

Leszek

As has been said, the Amolco was designed to use Myford patent collets, with an external locking ring which fits on the nose thread.

If you want to use a drawbar you will find the the hole through the spindle is too small for most drawbars which are usually inserted through the top of the spindle. I have used an M8 thread drawbar in an Amolco by reducing the diameter of the part above the thread and inserting the drawbar up through the spindle nose before inserting the collet.

When you do come to use the backgear, you can do so with complete peace of mind

James

Like most of the designs in 'The Amateur's Lathe', Sparey first published this in 'The Model Mechanic' magazine, of which he was Editor. This one was in July 1948.

In the text he said that "As the centre revolves, it may be made of mild steel, but a steel of harder grade is preferable as this will withstand accidental damage much better. A cast steel or silver steel may be used- although the centre is not hardened...……."

For those with an interest in such things I have put a copy of the 2-page article in my albums as "Sparey Running Centre"

Michael

It's been quiet while I've been absent! I thought you would have a lot of posts advising the use of link belts instead of V, so obviating the need to remove the spindle. Link belts are very popular with some members! I did find that a link made the running smoother between the motor and countershaft, but have had problems with slippage using one between countershaft and spindle.

As a regular user of backgear I wouldn't use it with a missing tooth, though presumably its on the 53 tooth cog which meshes with the 20 Tooth on the spindle pulley, so it will probably run over OK.

If you want a 17/53 tooth backgear, send me a message, I've found one in my box of old Myford bits. Postage in UK is a "small parcel" so £3 - 5.

Paul

The apron handwheel on an ML7, and the older Super 7, is 3.5 inches diameter. That should tell you if it will swing clear of the cross slide.

Eugene

Trevor's is the only way to get the yokes out and remove the screws. They will be a tight fit so as you say a good soaking in Plus Gas is a good idea. It can sometimes help to give the reverse side a tap to break the seal which will have formed. A little heat is usually a good idea.

They usually come out eventually. I have dismantled lots, and only had to give up on one which just wouldn't be shifted

Looks like there was probably a brass pad in yours and its got lost, as the screw is too short.

I checked the Amolco I've got hanging around and there is no pad, but the screw is long enough to lock on the column, and it also has had its end flattened and smoothed off before blackening, so looks like original. There are no visible marks on the column.

I would go for a shaped brass pad though.

Edited By Neil Wyatt on 08/07/2018 22:48:47

Emil

Standard method from the FB2 manual is to remove the sight glass, put a receptacle for the oil on the table, and then turn the head through a quarter turn until the sight glass hole is underneath and the oil runs out.

Run the machine for a while beforehand to warm up the oil and stir up any sediment. Be prepared for oil to get everywhere it rarely runs out in a nice stream!

The top cover of the Dewhurst switch gives the game away here Neil

As a pivot point for a lever action tailstock - it's been done before

That's right Michael. The adjusting screw is simply a grub screw with a rounded end  threaded through the push rod, and should be removable from either end. Your picture shows it sticking out of the 'bottom' end of the push rod, where it rests on the taper of the actuating shaft. You will have noticed that the adjusting screw has a smaller thread (1/4" BSF x 3/4" long) than the locking screw (5/16" BSF x 3/8" long).

Your lathe bed number is correct for 1963, so you must have a modified lathe. Probably had some bed damage to the original and a used bed as a replacement. With old machinery you need a very open mind!

Your picture doesn't show the whole push rod, it should look like this:

Edited By Robbo on 19/05/2018 00:21:44