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Member postings for Robbo

Here is a list of all the postings Robbo has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Power Cross Feed On A Myford ML7R
29/10/2018 23:40:21

Brian

Looking at your lathe in your album "Centring a long bar" it seems to have a bed compatible with Super 7 power cross feed, with a long indent below the front shear almost the full length of the shear.

Thread: Name plates
29/10/2018 11:48:04

You could try Steve Sparrow at steamplates.co.uk

email info@steamplates.co.uk

Thread: Boxford Model A stopping on slow speeds...?
27/10/2018 21:46:57

Its oil in all the ball nipples. and grease in the 2 headstock points. I see your headstock has a nipple for the grease at each end of the front of the headstock. I have only seen Boxford A s that have a grease cup in theses locations. With these you unscrew the cup, fill it with grease, and screw it back on, so forcing a measured amount of grease into the spindle bearings.

As you are using backgear there is an important lubrication point which is not obvious and is accessed from the rear of the headstock. You can see an oil ball nipple in the middle of the shaft carrying the backgears at each end, but there is also an oil reservoir inside the 5-way pulley cluster. This is accessed via a grub screw in the base of the second groove in from the chuck end of the spindle. The grub screw is removed and oil put in until the reservoir is full, and the screw replaced. This is an important part of the backgear procedure, as the pulley cluster is deprived of the support of the bullwheel when backgear is used.

Boxford list a variety of oils and greases, most of which are now out of date, but ultimately a standard SAE 20 mineral oil (as mentioned by Johnboy25) and a general purpose bearing grease are adequate.

Picture of the rear of the headstock showing the oil points, the grub screw has been removed to make the hole easier to see. (BTW I do have a new link belt to fit eventually!)

dscn6071.jpg

24/10/2018 10:52:48

Agree with Hopper. The lever with the latching device on the right front of the headstock is the sliding gear lever which disconnects/connects the dog clutch inside the headstock to give "direct drive" from the pulleys to the bull wheel or to disconnect this drive. Yours is set to the left, which disconnects the dog clutch and for the chuck to rotate the back gear lever on the end of the headstock (a plain cast lever, no latching) needs to be turned to the right to engage the backgear

If you are not intending to use backgear, then the sliding gear lever needs to be unlatched and moved to the right, the chuck will need to be rotated at the same time so the dog clutch can connect. Then check the back gear lever is turned to the left to disengage the backgear.

On the belt drives, you will have found the lever at the rear of the headstock which takes the tension off the belt drive from countershaft to spindle - this is adjustable by turning the hexagon part in the middle of the linkage, this has both left and right hand threads at opposite ends so turning one way tightens and t'other way slackens.

The motor to countershaft belt tension is adjusted by a knob on the motor mounting plate which is simply a screw to raise and lower the mounting. If you need to change the belt simply lift up the motor until you get enough slack.

Edited By Robbo on 24/10/2018 10:54:15

Thread: Myford ML7 - Direct or Back Gear
23/10/2018 18:54:47

Scott

Direct drive, which is when the bull wheel is locked to the pulley cone, will do for most everyday turning; when a lower speed is needed because of larger diameter workpieces, or for some faceplate work, or deep/large diameter drilling, then the back gear offers a reduction in spindle speed. The backgear is probably most frequently used when cutting threads, as this is more easily controlled at lower speeds, as are some parting off operations.

There is an oil nipple on the large pulley behind the bull wheel, and Myford recommend oiling this "Frequently" when using backgear. You decide how often equals frequently! There is an oil nipple on the backgear spindle which should also be oiled "Frequently" Myford also say the pulley oil nipple should be "well lubricated"

The main pulley cluster will rotate at the same direct drive speed selected whether you are using direct drive or backgear. As you say, in direct drive the bull wheel is locked to the pulley cluster, for backgear it is separated by moving the sliding key and raising the backgear lever. This takes the drive from the pulley cluster gear via the backgear reduction gear on to the bull wheel.

Basically, if its a Myford, keep the oil gun handy and give it a squirt whenever you use it seems to be the philosophy. The lubricant is a thin oil and runs off easily. The only problem you will get from too much lubrication is oil dripping out of the headstock and a messy drip tray/bench.

Thread: JB cutting tools .com
18/10/2018 23:49:35

MichaelG

I was just going to point that out , you beat me to it. It may, just possibly, be a definite, even a positive, statement.

OP

At the bottom of every "page" of the website there is a row of items. This includes 'Contact information' - click on that and you can email, phone, or write to them.

Thread: What did you do Today 2018
18/10/2018 18:42:18
Posted by mechman48 on 18/10/2018 17:27:06:

Finished refurbing the garden seat; SWMBO was of the opinion ' take it to the recycling centre & we'll get a new one' … surprise smile o… … Am I due some brownie points ?... yep! … will I get them … I doubt it … crying

refurbed seat.jpg

George.

What you may well get is "that's very nice dear, but I really would like the one we saw at the garden centre". sad

Thread: Myford Super 7 Belt and change gear cover material
18/10/2018 18:32:13

Like Nick above I have repaired a Myford cover using "Alutight" (the stuff the Scandi chap sells at shows). Very satisfactory and easy to use. However I found that the cover material is very easy to melt if you get a bit heavy handed with the torch. Then you have to build up the hole with more Alutight sad

no picture as I no longer have that machine.

Funnily enough it was also a change gear cover that I repaired - they don't like heavy chucks falling on them from the shelf above the machine!

Edited By Robbo on 18/10/2018 18:34:29

Thread: HELP
17/10/2018 21:09:17

Bump you back to the front page

Thread: Engineering Workshop Practice books
13/10/2018 09:27:51

I have got the 3 volumes of Engineering Workshop Practice, but I thought they were much earlier than the dates given above.

I was on the point of throwing these away, I have got plenty of other historical publications.Vol 3 has a torn spine. If anybody wants one or all of them then drop me a message.

Thread: B & D "Mouse" sander
30/09/2018 19:38:27

Maurice

I would use the white one as fine wire wool, the red one as a coarser abrasive. Bosch used to describe them as for light sanding, texturing, of wood, plastics and metal. Red probably OK for de-rusting.

Thread: scam?
30/09/2018 10:05:49
Posted by Simon Williams 3 on 30/09/2018 09:58:10:

However, if I've understood Neil's comments correctly Nicole Curtis has managed to post a reply to a classified ad' without being qualified to do so. So that begs the question of how he/she/it (we don't know!) has managed to bypass this safe guard. No point in increasing the shield if there is a way round it.

Simon

Duncan also advertised his "Ajax" loco on Homeworkshop, where 'Nicole Curtis' has appeared previously.

29/09/2018 18:59:30

Duncan

Have heard that name before as a scammer on the Homeworkshop site. Ignore it.

Thread: Best of Model Engineer vol 3
26/09/2018 22:23:54

John

"The Best of Model Engineer volume 3" has already been published, Autumn 2013. Featured the Lynx 15cc SOHC engine on the cover

The "Bests" seem to have been the brainchild of David Clarke when he was Editor of ME.

Thread: Myford super lever collet chuck
25/09/2018 23:38:28

George

Have sent you a Personal Message with some details. Check your inbox - green bar, 2nd icon.

Thread: Today's Mystery Object
21/09/2018 13:50:14
Posted by Neil Wyatt on 21/09/2018 11:00:22:

"I found these three bits in the bottom of a box and managed to fit them together at random."

Neil

Quite so. Even such an august personage as Dr Bromley has a box of junk in his shed wink.

Thread: Myford belts
21/09/2018 13:46:00

Like Tricky I used link belts from lathespares.co.uk and find them very good, especially on the motor to countershaft drive. No connection with lathespares, though I have known him a long time.

Thread: My late fathers part built project +
20/09/2018 19:03:20

Roy

Panic ye not, as a certain comedian used to say.

I can see all the details of your ad for the 5" Springbok.

"Bookmarks" are on this website, you can see yours if you click on the icon in the middle of the green line at the head of the page.   Useful if you want to keep a record of a particular thread, and have quick and easy access to it.

 

Edited By Robbo on 20/09/2018 19:07:46

Thread: Kennedy Power Hacksaw Gaiter
17/09/2018 19:18:41
Posted by Jamie Wood on 17/09/2018 18:23:59:

Whilst cleaning up the saw I had a brainwave about the gaiter - a section of cycle inner tube should do the job until something better turns up. I knew there was a reason I hung onto those old punctured tubes!

Good idea Jamie . One of the more unusual drive belts I have seen on a Kennedy was made of two sections of inner tube put together contrarily and stretched over the pulleys. But this time the tube was from a truck. It worked well enough.

Thread: Tom Senior S type 6" rotary table - backlash adjustment?
14/09/2018 11:00:29

Mike

My Tom Senior 6" table is older than yours, and where you have a knurled knob on the side mine has a big grubscrew with a locknut. This definitely alters the relationship of the worm to the wormwheel (but I can't remove backlash entirely). So it seems that the knob is in the right area for an adjuster. Maybe there was a brass plug in there that has worn out/got lost so that you run out of thread before completely tight on the end.

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