Here is a list of all the postings Robbo has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Power Cross Feed On A Myford ML7R|
Looking at your lathe in your album "Centring a long bar" it seems to have a bed compatible with Super 7 power cross feed, with a long indent below the front shear almost the full length of the shear.
|Thread: Name plates|
You could try Steve Sparrow at steamplates.co.uk
|Thread: Boxford Model A stopping on slow speeds...?|
Its oil in all the ball nipples. and grease in the 2 headstock points. I see your headstock has a nipple for the grease at each end of the front of the headstock. I have only seen Boxford A s that have a grease cup in theses locations. With these you unscrew the cup, fill it with grease, and screw it back on, so forcing a measured amount of grease into the spindle bearings.
As you are using backgear there is an important lubrication point which is not obvious and is accessed from the rear of the headstock. You can see an oil ball nipple in the middle of the shaft carrying the backgears at each end, but there is also an oil reservoir inside the 5-way pulley cluster. This is accessed via a grub screw in the base of the second groove in from the chuck end of the spindle. The grub screw is removed and oil put in until the reservoir is full, and the screw replaced. This is an important part of the backgear procedure, as the pulley cluster is deprived of the support of the bullwheel when backgear is used.
Boxford list a variety of oils and greases, most of which are now out of date, but ultimately a standard SAE 20 mineral oil (as mentioned by Johnboy25) and a general purpose bearing grease are adequate.
Picture of the rear of the headstock showing the oil points, the grub screw has been removed to make the hole easier to see. (BTW I do have a new link belt to fit eventually!)
Agree with Hopper. The lever with the latching device on the right front of the headstock is the sliding gear lever which disconnects/connects the dog clutch inside the headstock to give "direct drive" from the pulleys to the bull wheel or to disconnect this drive. Yours is set to the left, which disconnects the dog clutch and for the chuck to rotate the back gear lever on the end of the headstock (a plain cast lever, no latching) needs to be turned to the right to engage the backgear
If you are not intending to use backgear, then the sliding gear lever needs to be unlatched and moved to the right, the chuck will need to be rotated at the same time so the dog clutch can connect. Then check the back gear lever is turned to the left to disengage the backgear.
On the belt drives, you will have found the lever at the rear of the headstock which takes the tension off the belt drive from countershaft to spindle - this is adjustable by turning the hexagon part in the middle of the linkage, this has both left and right hand threads at opposite ends so turning one way tightens and t'other way slackens.
The motor to countershaft belt tension is adjusted by a knob on the motor mounting plate which is simply a screw to raise and lower the mounting. If you need to change the belt simply lift up the motor until you get enough slack.
Edited By Robbo on 24/10/2018 10:54:15
|Thread: Myford ML7 - Direct or Back Gear|
Direct drive, which is when the bull wheel is locked to the pulley cone, will do for most everyday turning; when a lower speed is needed because of larger diameter workpieces, or for some faceplate work, or deep/large diameter drilling, then the back gear offers a reduction in spindle speed. The backgear is probably most frequently used when cutting threads, as this is more easily controlled at lower speeds, as are some parting off operations.
There is an oil nipple on the large pulley behind the bull wheel, and Myford recommend oiling this "Frequently" when using backgear. You decide how often equals frequently! There is an oil nipple on the backgear spindle which should also be oiled "Frequently" Myford also say the pulley oil nipple should be "well lubricated"
The main pulley cluster will rotate at the same direct drive speed selected whether you are using direct drive or backgear. As you say, in direct drive the bull wheel is locked to the pulley cluster, for backgear it is separated by moving the sliding key and raising the backgear lever. This takes the drive from the pulley cluster gear via the backgear reduction gear on to the bull wheel.
Basically, if its a Myford, keep the oil gun handy and give it a squirt whenever you use it seems to be the philosophy. The lubricant is a thin oil and runs off easily. The only problem you will get from too much lubrication is oil dripping out of the headstock and a messy drip tray/bench.
|Thread: JB cutting tools .com|
I was just going to point that out , you beat me to it. It may, just possibly, be a definite, even a positive, statement.
At the bottom of every "page" of the website there is a row of items. This includes 'Contact information' - click on that and you can email, phone, or write to them.
|Thread: What did you do Today 2018|
What you may well get is "that's very nice dear, but I really would like the one we saw at the garden centre".
|Thread: Myford Super 7 Belt and change gear cover material|
Like Nick above I have repaired a Myford cover using "Alutight" (the stuff the Scandi chap sells at shows). Very satisfactory and easy to use. However I found that the cover material is very easy to melt if you get a bit heavy handed with the torch. Then you have to build up the hole with more Alutight
no picture as I no longer have that machine.
Funnily enough it was also a change gear cover that I repaired - they don't like heavy chucks falling on them from the shelf above the machine!
Edited By Robbo on 18/10/2018 18:34:29
Bump you back to the front page
|Thread: Engineering Workshop Practice books|
I have got the 3 volumes of Engineering Workshop Practice, but I thought they were much earlier than the dates given above.
I was on the point of throwing these away, I have got plenty of other historical publications.Vol 3 has a torn spine. If anybody wants one or all of them then drop me a message.
|Thread: B & D "Mouse" sander|
I would use the white one as fine wire wool, the red one as a coarser abrasive. Bosch used to describe them as for light sanding, texturing, of wood, plastics and metal. Red probably OK for de-rusting.
Duncan also advertised his "Ajax" loco on Homeworkshop, where 'Nicole Curtis' has appeared previously.
Have heard that name before as a scammer on the Homeworkshop site. Ignore it.
|Thread: Best of Model Engineer vol 3|
"The Best of Model Engineer volume 3" has already been published, Autumn 2013. Featured the Lynx 15cc SOHC engine on the cover
The "Bests" seem to have been the brainchild of David Clarke when he was Editor of ME.
|Thread: Myford super lever collet chuck|
Have sent you a Personal Message with some details. Check your inbox - green bar, 2nd icon.
|Thread: Today's Mystery Object|
Quite so. Even such an august personage as Dr Bromley has a box of junk in his shed .
|Thread: Myford belts|
Like Tricky I used link belts from lathespares.co.uk and find them very good, especially on the motor to countershaft drive. No connection with lathespares, though I have known him a long time.
|Thread: My late fathers part built project +|
Panic ye not, as a certain comedian used to say.
I can see all the details of your ad for the 5" Springbok.
"Bookmarks" are on this website, you can see yours if you click on the icon in the middle of the green line at the head of the page. Useful if you want to keep a record of a particular thread, and have quick and easy access to it.
Edited By Robbo on 20/09/2018 19:07:46
|Thread: Kennedy Power Hacksaw Gaiter|
Good idea Jamie . One of the more unusual drive belts I have seen on a Kennedy was made of two sections of inner tube put together contrarily and stretched over the pulleys. But this time the tube was from a truck. It worked well enough.
|Thread: Tom Senior S type 6" rotary table - backlash adjustment?|
My Tom Senior 6" table is older than yours, and where you have a knurled knob on the side mine has a big grubscrew with a locknut. This definitely alters the relationship of the worm to the wormwheel (but I can't remove backlash entirely). So it seems that the knob is in the right area for an adjuster. Maybe there was a brass plug in there that has worn out/got lost so that you run out of thread before completely tight on the end.
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