Member postings for Robbo

Have a look at this page on Harold Hall's website homews.co.uk - **LINK**

There are lots of designs about

John

Better but not fixed! Still have a job getting the screwdriver blade into the slot without using 2 hands.

I am supposed to be getting rid of any stuff not actually needed, so the switch can go and start a useful life.

Back in the day I used to repair Myfords, usually switched with the dreaded Dewhurst rotary, and owners were very keen to have those renovated rather than replaced with one of these vastly superior switches. I haven't seen one of these for a very long time.

If you open the message I sent we can sort out the details by email rather than in public. It won't cost you a lot

John

After a Doctor visit this morning can manage to do this myself without too many shakes, so have taken a pic of my switch which seems the same as yours. Pics below

If you check out the items noted by Les Jones, who is a whizz at this electrics lark, and still need a replacement, then let me know.

I will send you a message with my email address, pick up the message from your Inbox at the left hand of the green bar at top.

Sounds like John's switch is the one specifically used for Myfords, is in a substantial cast housing, and came with specific wiring instructions for Myford use. I have an unused one "on the shelf", but have never tested it.

These are not like the smaller switches with a cam and spring lock to hold the switchgear in place, but have a built in NVR capability. If there is no voltage flowing then the knob will return to the off position.

Seems like the NVR coil has called it a day, or become disconnected, so the contacts can only be kept closed by holding the knob in place.

A picture of the switch will help identify it

Edit - must acknowledge Mrs Robbo's help in typing this

Edited By Robbo on 22/12/2018 17:54:26

Brian

Robbo himself is still incapacitated, but I asked him and he says the gib strip on the taper turning att. is the normal Myford 3/8" gib strip (with one bevelled edge) and you are best to get hold of an old ML7 topslide gib strip and shorten it to size. You will also need to drill new dimples for the adjusting screws.

Mrs Robbo

Merlin will be sending the Drummond papers, so we will see when they arrive. In slow time probably as my "Dicky Ticker" is playing up just now.

Have sent you a PM

You might also like to look at the ebay store (for South Bend) at **LINK**

Bit eye-watering though

The text shows that the 5 cyl radial engine was shown at the ME exhibition in 1924, so Bob has probably got it spot on.

That's correct John. Wired as the right hand diagram. Works fine.

That's what I was thinking Brian, except I would use a Rotabroach to cut the 25mm hole.

All I can offer on this is a pic of the data plate of an American 9-wire 3-phase dual voltage motor that I have.

This seems to follow the wiring shown in Les's link. The actual wires are all the same colour and are numbered from 1 thru 9. I have it set up for low voltage Delta via a VFD, so no point in showing the actual wiring. At first I found it confusing that 3 wires (4, 5, 6) are connected together when in Delta when on our 6 wire configuration this would be for Star. The "Y CONN" refers to the connections to the left. Sorry this is all numbers and not number and letter combinations.

hi John

The cheese head screws that hold the feedscrew nut are 4 BA. Probably 3/8" long. Those are what you mean.

When my brain saw "top of the slide" it stuck on the feedscrew bracket as that's on the bit that slides up and down. Any other words ignored . Funny things, brains.

In Imperial sizes Myford went for 2 and 4 BA for screws and bolts less than ¼", then either BSW or BSF, but to be contrary you might find a 3/16" BSW somewhere.

Caveat: on old Myford kit there is always the possibility that someone has changed things.

Edited By Robbo on 14/11/2018 10:23:50

John

The Imperial gib adjusters screws and locknuts are 2 BA, same as the older ML7 lathe slides. The 2 screws holding the bracket to the body are also 2 BA, x ½" and are usually socket cap screws, not cheese head.

If you have problems sourcing either, drop me a message, I've probably got some left over from my days as a Myford "fixer"

Edited By Robbo on 13/11/2018 21:46:34

Bill

The 60 year old scar on my thumb reminds me to always clean up rough ends

Is this old thread about Triumph/Colchester spindle any help? - **LINK**

There is something in my brain that tells me this has come up before,  but the brain won't let me know what it is .

As the Doctor said, "Don't worry, you haven't got dementia, you're just a stupid old git"

Edited By Robbo on 12/11/2018 12:11:41

poly v pulley.jpg = **LINK**

Further to previous post. The original bearing specification (for both Mk 1 & Mk 2 machine) item 423 in the drawing, are "angular contact ball bearings, 1" id x 2¼" od".

Edited to insert t in the!

Edited By Robbo on 08/11/2018 17:17:53

John

Also recommend you join the Yahoo group "dwmill". In the meantime, here is part of the drawing showing the head and spindle. This is the Mark 2 Dore-Westbury, you don't say if you have a Mk 1 or Mk2.

Excuse the oil stains

If you send me a message with your email address (click on "message member" at bottomleft of this box) I can send you pdf s of drawings.

This type of spring clip and pin is widely used in the disability aid market, for securing adjustable legs on stools etc.by the pin going through corresponding holes in an internal and external tube

They usually consist of a plastic horseshoe with a steel pin. In this context they are known as a "push-on pin clip"