Member postings for Robert Dodds

Ashley,
This topic came up in 2014 and I copy a part of the thread with my photo of the modified arbor and drill chuck.
The thread was entitled "0MT drill chuck" under Workshop tools and tooling but I don't seem able to reference it directly for you.
Hope this helps

Bob D

Extract from 18/12/2014 thread, 0MT drill chuck

A photo of my turned down, cut down RDG arbor ready to fit to the chuck
The as turned taper needed a bit of lapping paste and polishing up to get it to grip reasonably in the tailstock socket
Note the flats on the 15mm shoulder dia. to allow a13mm spanner to tighten/undo the arbor from the drill chuck

Bob D

Edited By Robert Dodds on 18/12/2014 19:39:23

Thats very good..Wish my little lathe did tapers!I was wondering about cutting the top off, leaving the narrow part the right lenght then welding a little blank on and use a die for the thread..Then I realised I need a straight shank with a 0mt to get it in the lathe chuck to turn it .I m on the trail of a short one..

U J,
I'm not clear what stage you're at. Does your little lathe let the small end of an M0 into it's sockets or are you, like me, unable to even start the standard M0 into the hole. Neil called the Adept a M00 and thats not a bad definition.
If Adept is what you've got then taper turning is probably involved but if you can get an M0 stubby into the headstock spindle taper you can proceed from there. cut off the excess leaving enough to turn a screwed spigot, say M4 or M5 on the end.
Now make a screwed bush out of say 15mm dia bar, matching your M4/M5 and rough turn to size for your drill chuck. To get best concentricity mount the part finished bush on the stubby arbor, put it back in your headstock spindle and turn the remaining dias true. Die the thread for your chuck, assemble it and go drill some holes.
I would not do any welding, too many stresses and distorsion. All normal cutting tends to tighten the threads up so there is little chance of things coming loose unexpectedly.
If you are stuck wiith lathe that has no facility for offsetting the tailstock, like the Adept, and want to do a slow taper there are simple attachments to put an adjustable centre on the tailstock barrel. these often use the MT hole but can also mount straight onto the outside diameter of the barrel. Making from scratch can be a bit involved but simpler designs should be possible with little more than a lathe with chuck and a pillar drill.
The frustrating part is setting it up to accurately match an existing, M00 say, taper

Bob D

The cross hole that is mentioned is, for me, quite important. Stick a tommy bar through it and it makes it easy to extract chucks, centres etc. from the tailstock. As you wind back the barrel the bar strikes against the nose of the tailstock and out pops the chuck, centre, why.

Regards Bob D

Its worthwhile checking the door construction.
Mine has a channel section all round the door edge and at the bottom it fills with wind blown rain which then overflows from the channel and spills over inside the garage. Not easy to cure!
I tried drain holes in the bottom channel but these gather debris and are high maintenance.

Bob D

Simon,

The pity is your plug will cost more than the furnace!
But C'est la vie.

Bob D

Simon,
Is this assortment of any use. I can't find dimensions on the site but could be worth a call or email to check dimensions.

https://www.pmseurope.com/collections/electrical-plugs

Bob D

The thing that will really test you bearings (and lathe as well), seeing that its an independent 4 jaw, is mounting a relatively heavy job off centre to the chuck and then running at too high a speed. Your centrifugal forces far exceed the static loading!

Bob D

Can anyone shed light on a process I vaguely recall for crack testing Brass Cartridge cases. Cases were either dipped or rubbed over with "snake oil " that turned them silver except where there was a crack ( from the deep drawing process) that appeared as an uncoated line. Rejected of course!

I seem to remember that mercury was involved so the whole process will be considered "iffy" today.

Bob D

Georgineer,

I'm sure you are right. Choose your style from any of dozens of online sites.One site refers to it as a Repro!

Bob D

Thanks Neil,

That got me right to the doorstep!

Bob D

Timping and Spelching.
Timping is done with a toffee hammer whereas Spelching is to clout it with nowt smaller than a sledge.

Clangers were chucked on a shawd ruck. (Shawd derived from shards -of glass, Ruck as in heap, perhaps some link to Rugby football?

Banks are for going up, but only in and around the Potteries and North Staffs apparently. elseweir they are "robdogs" and not to be trusted with a "tanner" (6 old pence)

Bob D

The normally superbly rich English language let us down when it, perhaps inadvertently, associated the title "Engineer" with the motors of Ford, Watt, Bentley et al. by spelling it with an E rather than an I and in so doing destroying the Latin link to ingenuity from whence it was derived. The French and many other continental languages retain the I spelling and this helps in establishing a sensible hierarchy of job titles as gleaned from a Google search

French translation of 'engineer'

engineer

[ˌɛndʒɪˈnɪəʳ ]

noun

1. (with degree in engineering) ingénieur mf

He’s an engineer. Il est ingénieur.

2. (Britain) (= repairman) réparateur/trice m/f

3. (US) mécanicien/ienne m/f

4. (= skilled worker)

mechanical engineer ingénieur m/f mécanicien(ne)
central heating engineer chauffagiste mf
telephone engineer technicien(ne) m/f des télécommunications

Bob D

Talking sag of beams and the like I recall in the "Standards Room" they kept a cast iron beam that was bellied on the underside, It rested on Airy points (or very near) and was designed to even out stresses and get deflection to a minimum.

I see one of them still in the ITP group range of surface plates

Bob D

No mention has been made so far about the need for both flanges to be similarly recessed away from the bore so as to put even clamping forces on the wheel. There are some clear illustrations in a HSE handbook on the subject that's free to download at (http://www.hse.gov.uk/pUbns/priced/hsg17.pdf).
I particularly note that if you have over a 500W motor the inner driving flange should be keyed or otherwise fixed to the drive spindle.

Bob D

David,
You are probably looking at 0 BA 6x1mm. Same pitch and dia as M6 but thread form slightly different, but for many applications you could mix and match without problem.

Bob D

Otley,

A perfectly legit download of useful drill,tapping,milling etc is available from Presto Drills Sheffield.
Go to the web site and look at the bottom of their download list for Presto Councellor. It used to be available as a booklet but now seems to be print your own and laminate if you want a workshop copy. Almost as good as Zeus!!

Bob D

James,

Your sketch shows no detail of how you intend to fix the inner flange to the silver steel shaft and this is one of the most important points in mounting grinding wheels. A pinch screw on the inner flange is not adequate. The flange will tend to run out of true and the prospect of it coming undone is unthinkable!! Adhesive fixing is equally unacceptable.
There is plenty of online data and regulations regarding mounting grinding wheels. Have a look at those before making something that can be lethal.

Regards Bob D

You could make life easier if you had a through hole in the bush, with countersink if required (c/sink tool will follow the hole on the second side and then machine the cones on the two pivot screws. They don't rotate in use so it all runs true

Regards Bob D

Ian,

Have you tried putting the DTI stylus on the top of the 22mm bar in the chuck/collet. (12 o'clock position ) and then traversing both the saddle and the compound slide in turn along the bar. This would confirm that the main bed was true to the lathe spindle and that your compound slide is running "level". A sloping slideway is far easier to spot with a DTI reading on the top of test.bar.

Bob D

A very timely article for me as I'm just upgrading the control of an enameling kiln.
I bought much the same gear but as a kit, which came complete with a heatsink for the SSR. That raised the question of how much heat is being dissipated by the SSR. Reference to the web soon indicated that it was typically 1.5 watts per amp of current through the device so your 2Kw kettle sends about 15w out of the SSR.
I think that is a bit too much for a sealed plastic box to withstand for longer periods such as with kilns etc.
There is no mention of a heatsink in the article so am I being over cautious mounting mine with heatsink in a ventilated steel enclosure?

Bob D

Paul,

I had a similar issue with a lawnmower that had a slightly different mounting arrangement. Do the old and new units look similar in layout of the laminations in the coil? If so the new unit needs to go as near as possible in the same orientation as the one you've taken off,to keep the spark timing right with some sort of adapter plate to facilitate screwing it down. The other important consideration is the air gap between the poles on the cdi and the magnet poles on the flywheel.My instructions were to use a piece of 0.005" perspex between them whilst tightening up. Runs like a Lotus 7 now!

Regards

Bob D

PS Howard beat me to the gap!

Edited By Robert Dodds on 13/05/2018 17:02:52