Here is a list of all the postings Robert Dodds has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Help needed north London Enfield|
Extract from 18/12/2014 thread, 0MT drill chuck
A photo of my turned down, cut down RDG arbor ready to fit to the chuck
Edited By Robert Dodds on 18/12/2014 19:39:23
Thats very good..Wish my little lathe did tapers!I was wondering about cutting the top off, leaving the narrow part the right lenght then welding a little blank on and use a die for the thread..Then I realised I need a straight shank with a 0mt to get it in the lathe chuck to turn it .I m on the trail of a short one..
|Thread: Super adept lathe|
The cross hole that is mentioned is, for me, quite important. Stick a tommy bar through it and it makes it easy to extract chucks, centres etc. from the tailstock. As you wind back the barrel the bar strikes against the nose of the tailstock and out pops the chuck, centre, why.
Regards Bob D
|Thread: Up and over door seal|
Its worthwhile checking the door construction.
|Thread: Anyone recognise this mains connector ?|
The pity is your plug will cost more than the furnace!
|Thread: Is this chuck too big/heavy?|
The thing that will really test you bearings (and lathe as well), seeing that its an independent 4 jaw, is mounting a relatively heavy job off centre to the chuck and then running at too high a speed. Your centrifugal forces far exceed the static loading!
|Thread: Silvering brass|
Can anyone shed light on a process I vaguely recall for crack testing Brass Cartridge cases. Cases were either dipped or rubbed over with "snake oil " that turned them silver except where there was a crack ( from the deep drawing process) that appeared as an uncoated line. Rejected of course!
I seem to remember that mercury was involved so the whole process will be considered "iffy" today.
|Thread: Railway sign|
I'm sure you are right. Choose your style from any of dozens of online sites.One site refers to it as a Repro!
|Thread: Dialect expressions|
That got me right to the doorstep!
Timping and Spelching.
Clangers were chucked on a shawd ruck. (Shawd derived from shards -of glass, Ruck as in heap, perhaps some link to Rugby football?
Banks are for going up, but only in and around the Potteries and North Staffs apparently. elseweir they are "robdogs" and not to be trusted with a "tanner" (6 old pence)
|Thread: Year of Engineering|
The normally superbly rich English language let us down when it, perhaps inadvertently, associated the title "Engineer" with the motors of Ford, Watt, Bentley et al. by spelling it with an E rather than an I and in so doing destroying the Latin link to ingenuity from whence it was derived. The French and many other continental languages retain the I spelling and this helps in establishing a sensible hierarchy of job titles as gleaned from a Google search
French translation of 'engineer'
1. (with degree in engineering) ingénieur mf
He’s an engineer. Il est ingénieur.
2. (Britain) (= repairman) réparateur/trice m/f
3. (US) mécanicien/ienne m/f
4. (= skilled worker)
mechanical engineer ingénieur m/f mécanicien(ne)
|Thread: Master surface plate for scraping in a cast plate?|
Talking sag of beams and the like I recall in the "Standards Room" they kept a cast iron beam that was bellied on the underside, It rested on Airy points (or very near) and was designed to even out stresses and get deflection to a minimum.
I see one of them still in the ITP group range of surface plates
|Thread: Bench grinder improvement mod.|
No mention has been made so far about the need for both flanges to be similarly recessed away from the bore so as to put even clamping forces on the wheel. There are some clear illustrations in a HSE handbook on the subject that's free to download at (http://www.hse.gov.uk/pUbns/priced/hsg17.pdf).
|Thread: Metric threads on an ML7|
|Thread: Zeus book download|
A perfectly legit download of useful drill,tapping,milling etc is available from Presto Drills Sheffield.
|Thread: Homemade Grinder Advice|
Your sketch shows no detail of how you intend to fix the inner flange to the silver steel shaft and this is one of the most important points in mounting grinding wheels. A pinch screw on the inner flange is not adequate. The flange will tend to run out of true and the prospect of it coming undone is unthinkable!! Adhesive fixing is equally unacceptable.
Regards Bob D
|Thread: A workholding question|
You could make life easier if you had a through hole in the bush, with countersink if required (c/sink tool will follow the hole on the second side and then machine the cones on the two pivot screws. They don't rotate in use so it all runs true
Regards Bob D
|Thread: Can you guess what's happening?|
Have you tried putting the DTI stylus on the top of the 22mm bar in the chuck/collet. (12 o'clock position ) and then traversing both the saddle and the compound slide in turn along the bar. This would confirm that the main bed was true to the lathe spindle and that your compound slide is running "level". A sloping slideway is far easier to spot with a DTI reading on the top of test.bar.
|Thread: PID Controller - MEW 269 - wrong connector|
A very timely article for me as I'm just upgrading the control of an enameling kiln.
|Thread: Repurposing a 25cc strimmer engine|
I had a similar issue with a lawnmower that had a slightly different mounting arrangement. Do the old and new units look similar in layout of the laminations in the coil? If so the new unit needs to go as near as possible in the same orientation as the one you've taken off,to keep the spark timing right with some sort of adapter plate to facilitate screwing it down. The other important consideration is the air gap between the poles on the cdi and the magnet poles on the flywheel.My instructions were to use a piece of 0.005" perspex between them whilst tightening up. Runs like a Lotus 7 now!
PS Howard beat me to the gap!
Edited By Robert Dodds on 13/05/2018 17:02:52
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