Here is a list of all the postings Bikepete has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Changing my Email client|
It's a Windows only program (XP onwards).
I believe there are various ways to run Windows programs on Mac OS - but I have no direct experience.
Pegasus Mail has this, assuming by redirect you mean what I think you mean (forward unaltered aka "bounce", so it reaches your chosen recipient pretty much the same - with just an extra line in the headers to document the redirection - as if it had been sent to them by the original sender - thus allowing your recipient to reply by default to the original sender, not to you).
It's still under active development (since 1990!) and has worked brilliantly for me for 20+ years. But it's arguably not as user-friendly as some alternatives (perhaps because it's so feature-rich and configurable), and it's also heavily dependent on the continued health and dedication of just one main developer, so maybe not an obvious first choice. But worth a look, IMO... (and it's free for both private and business use).
Edited By Bikepete on 22/03/2022 15:07:46
|Thread: Holbrook lathe on Ebay|
Edited By Bikepete on 28/10/2021 13:43:10
|Thread: Hardinge HLV H|
A quick further thought - it may be that importers of HLV "clones" can provide accessories such as backplates or chucks, if making them yourself is not the preferred option. In the UK, this supplier says "We have a complete range of tooling and spindle tooling to fit the Hardinge Lathes as well as our popular new Linear Cyclematic Lathes":
and they also list a brand new Hardinge taper fit faceplate on UK Ebay:
Fernando, maybe you can also find a EU importer of one of the "clone" brands who might also be able to provide accessories to fit your HLV-H?
Hi Fernando, I checked the page you found at Shars.com, but I could only see chucks there with the D-series mounting. So unless I missed something, those will not be relevant for your lathe.
Buying used is risky. I have the older version of this lathe (the narrow bed HLV) and the chucks that came with it are very worn. Used chucks with the Hardinge taper mount could also be worn, and are rare, and will still be quite expensive...
Do you have another lathe which you could use to make a new backplate yourself?
Congratulations by the way - you have a great lathe which should be a pleasure to use.
And remember, you can do a LOT of work with just collets, until a solution can be found for the chucks.
If you already have a set of ER collets, by the way, you can use an adaptor like this:
and similar items are also available for ER 40 collets. This lets you cover a big range of diameters without spending a LOT of money on a full set of 5C collets...
The difficulty is that the Hardinge spindle nose (a 4 degree taper with locking pin) is pretty much specific to that brand and backplates and chucks to fit are hard to find. There are some available (not cheap!) in the USA e.g.
but I've not seen them advertised in the UK or Europe - would also be interested to hear if anyone has a source!
Another option is to make one - Google Images search for "Hardinge taper drawing" will find the spindle dimensions...
A small chuck could also be mounted using the 5c spindle taper e.g.
|Thread: Use Chequer (Tread) Plate as Roofing Sheet?|
Is EPDM (aka rubber membrane) an option rather than felt? Nowadays I always prefer it - it lasts basically forever, 20 years so far on my shed with no issues, advertised as 40+ years expected. Offcuts, adhesive etc. readily available on Ebay. Still needs a ply base, but because it never leaks that doesn't deteriorate.
|Thread: Upvc front door|
For now, the right to repair laws only cover:
They also cover non-consumer electronics, such as light sources, electric motors, refrigerators with a direct sales function (eg fridges in supermarkets, vending machines for cold drinks), power transformers and welding equipment.
|Thread: Is buying a custom ground tool my only option??|
Could you modify a lazy susan bearing maybe? Available big as you want, cheap as chips.... e.g.
|Thread: Milling machines - western-made s/h recommendations up to £2k|
Not sure if it's been mentioned already but it would be worth checking out Facebook Marketplace and Gumtree for secondhand machinery, as well as Ebay - these are becoming more popular with private sellers because unlike Ebay there are no selling fees...
|Thread: Benchmaster Senior Donkey Saw|
As promised here's mine:
Martin asked about belt length for the main pulley:
Looks like A1130 to me.
Many more photos in my album.
No idea on the history but I have one too, well used but not quite as mucky as yours! Mine has the guard over the pulley which you are missing. Not the most sophisticated of saws. Vice is set at 90 degrees only, and there is no damper or blade lift on the return stroke.
Uses 12" blades. When the previous owner sold it to me he made a big thing of including a small stock of 12" x 5/8" blades (rather than the more usual 12" x 1/2" hacksaw type) which are a little more robust - he said they were super rare but I'm still using his stash, so never had to search out more.
Will post a picture when I get a chance.
|Thread: Alexander master toolmaker|
Doh! Well spotted Phil. Did seem like the price was 'ambitious' for just one...
Great to see this proceeding towards a successful conclusion - as a former owner of a very similar Deckel it is good to see it being given a new lease of life. Good work David and hope it serves you well once repaired.
You can buy just a single one here:
and FWIW that listing helpfully also includes a note that "Standard inch-sized taper pins have a taper on diameter of 1:48 while metric ones have a taper of 1:50".
Edited By Bikepete on 02/01/2020 11:42:34
|Thread: Colchester Master Mk1 lifting + moving advice|
Looks like other people have pretty much outlined what I was going to suggest - basically use the pallet truck to move it over to the workshop door and lift to the step height, then slide the lathe off the pallet into the workshop.
Also some great tips already but a few more ideas for 'belt and braces':
(1) Can that sheet metal around (I presume) the motor on the side of the lathe be removed? How about the motor? If they can relatively easily be removed, do!
(2) As suggested make sure you get the wider sort of pallet truck - 600ish mm wide instead of 400ish IIRC.
(3) As to strapping it down - looks from the photos as if you may have no choice but to do so over the chip tray (under the bed). As others have said it might be best to do this with the pallet truck in place, so that you can anchor it direct to the truck forks.
(4) I would also get a couple of lengths of e.g. 2x2 and screw or bolt these to the pallet, either side of the cabinet base, so they prevent the lathe from shifting sideways on the pallet. These will also make sure it pulls off straight later in the process. (though one will need removing before sliding the lathe off the pallet, if you can't remove the lump at the side of the lathe).
(5) The suggestion of ramps to ease rolling it up onto the plywood/OSB is good - get these made.
(6) When you've moved the lathe over to the workshop door you will need plenty of packing material to rest the pallet on so that the lathe can be slid off. The top of the pallet will need to be level with the top of the sill. Idealy you would place packing under the full width of the pallet, front, centre and rear. So you might need a decent supply of thin planks, say 6" wide and at least as long as the pallet is wide... some reasonably thin ones would be good so that you can get the height just right.
(7) Might be worth double checking that the pallet truck will actually lift high enough (a little higher than the final position will be needed, to ensure you have space to insert the packing). If not then after lifting and packing as high as it will go, packing could be placed either above its forks for their full length (best, IMO) or under its wheels.
(8) When the pallet and lathe are packed up in place in front of the workshop door as above I'd consider screwing some short lengths of 2x2 vertically to the sleeper, either side of the pallet, to stop it shifting sideways as you move the lathe off it. May as well screw them to the pallet too, to lock it in place.
(9) Someone got there first but I was also going to suggest an anchor point at the back of the workshop opposite the doorway to pull the lathe off the pallet from. Is this do-able? An expanding-type Rawlbolt would do the job, with an adaptor made of e.g. angle iron to provide a decent sized hole to hook to. Google 'caving hanger' for some ideas. You might get away with M6 but M8 thread size would be reassuringly solid.
(10) Then to actually pull the lathe ideally perhaps a lever-operated chain 'come-along', but failing that maybe a chain fall or some sort of winch. What have you? Also, identify ahead of time how you'll attach your pulling device to the lathe, ideally as close to ground level as possible.
(1) Follow the great advice from earlier about one person being in charge at a time (but all can say 'stop' ).
(2) Place the pallet truck into the pallet in line with the lathe so the truck handle is at the headstock end - best to have the heaviest bit well between the wheels. Do some trial lifts and re-position if it seems not to be well balanced side to side.
(3) Lift no higher at any point than absolutely necessary to get the pallet clear of the ground.
(4) Might be an idea to practice moving it 6" or so then dropping it back down - dropping it down should be your reflex if anything starts moving too fast or whatever. Doing this should just stop everything safely and leave the pallet stable and secure on the ground.
(5) Absolutely drop it down onto the ground if you ever temporarily stop to e.g. move sheets of OSB around.
(6) Plan your OSB sheet placement so you end up with a full sheet right in front of the shed doorway, so that when you come to lifting and packing the pallet to height you're on a good stable base.
(7) When the lathe and pallet are in place at the workshop doorway, the tailstock end will already be filling much of the doorway. Will there be space for people to get past? Two of you will probably need to get inside for the 'pull' operation. Or maybe there's another entrance?
(8) This might be a good point for a cuppa!
Next post will cover sliding the lathe off the pallet and over the sill.
Edited By Bikepete on 03/11/2019 20:36:23
That looks a lot better/easier than I'd envisaged.
In light of the wise comments from some other contributors I'm wondering whether it is a responsible thing to give advice at all here (other than 'hire some professionals' ) but we're all (I assume) adults here and your (ChooChoo) decisions are your own. On that basis I'll suggest that it looks to be as if it _might_ be possible, at your own risk, to do it all with a pallet truck as I outlined on the previous page.
After answers to the following questions I'll outline how I would approach the job. But first:
(a) Will you definitely have at least one able-bodied helper? Possible an experienced volunteer from the forum might come forward to assist if you disclose a rough location.
(b) Is the pallet it is on now solid and not rotted?
(c) Is the lathe secured to the pallet at all? If so, how? A picture minus the tarp would be helpful.
(d) How does the height of the step into the workshop compare to the height of the pallet?
(e) Does the workshop doorway have a sill above its internal floor level, and if so, could this be temporarily removed? If not removeable, what height is it above the internal floor?
(f) In the last picture, is there plenty of space 'behind the camera'? Asking because it looks as if the lathe will need to be swung round so as to enter 'end on' into the workshop. If there's not the space for it to approach the doors at a right angle, that could complicate things.
Edited By Bikepete on 01/11/2019 19:53:08
As mentioned before, pictures and/or an annotated sketch (or whatever) to give further essential info are needed for people to provide meaningful advice - as it is, I think plenty of knowledgeable people here are keen to be helpful but on the limited info given so far we can only guess as to the actual situation and constraints.
I don't think a patio was even mentioned before... and you still have not told us what sort of 'ground' it needs moving over. Turf? Gravel? A narrow strip or a wide lawn? Gradients?
How high is the step? What is underneath supporting the patio? etc etc.
Until we have photos etc. to go on (and further answers to any questions which may arise from those), nobody can really give you meaningful advice on how to do this safely (other than 'hire some professionals' ).
Edited By Bikepete on 01/11/2019 14:01:01
Edited By Bikepete on 01/11/2019 14:01:32
Agree re more info needed... also about the step into the workshop - how high is it? What's the access around it like? Pictures are always helpful
But my first thought was that if it's already secured to a pallet, I'd suggest leaving it on the pallet for moving. That's if the pallet is sound - if not it might be worth getting (or making) one that is and shuffling the lathe over onto it (and then bolting and/or strapping it down so it can't tip).
Depending on the surface it needs to be moved over, a pallet truck might then be all you need, at least as far as the step into the workshop. Place the pallet edge right up against the step then, if the step is roughly the same height as the pallet, the lathe could potentially slide straight off the pallet onto the workshop floor.
|Thread: Meddings Driltru Handwheel (Star Wheel) Stiff|
Apologies Mike, I must have got called away and didn't spot this reply at the time. Seems you're now sorted but FWIW mine doesn't have play that I've noticed, but it is a little bit 'sticky' again when I tried it just now - perhaps I didn't take enough off for this hot weather!
I had exactly the same thing. I opened up the bush slighty by boring it on the lathe as I had no reamer to hand, but a reamer should work too.
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