Here is a list of all the postings Bikepete has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Benchmaster Senior Donkey Saw|
No idea on the history but I have one too, well used but not quite as mucky as yours! Mine has the guard over the pulley which you are missing. Not the most sophisticated of saws. Vice is set at 90 degrees only, and there is no damper or blade lift on the return stroke.
Uses 12" blades. When the previous owner sold it to me he made a big thing of including a small stock of 12" x 5/8" blades (rather than the more usual 12" x 1/2" hacksaw type) which are a little more robust - he said they were super rare but I'm still using his stash, so never had to search out more.
Will post a picture when I get a chance.
|Thread: Alexander master toolmaker|
Doh! Well spotted Phil. Did seem like the price was 'ambitious' for just one...
Great to see this proceeding towards a successful conclusion - as a former owner of a very similar Deckel it is good to see it being given a new lease of life. Good work David and hope it serves you well once repaired.
You can buy just a single one here:
and FWIW that listing helpfully also includes a note that "Standard inch-sized taper pins have a taper on diameter of 1:48 while metric ones have a taper of 1:50".
Edited By Bikepete on 02/01/2020 11:42:34
|Thread: Colchester Master Mk1 lifting + moving advice|
Looks like other people have pretty much outlined what I was going to suggest - basically use the pallet truck to move it over to the workshop door and lift to the step height, then slide the lathe off the pallet into the workshop.
Also some great tips already but a few more ideas for 'belt and braces':
(1) Can that sheet metal around (I presume) the motor on the side of the lathe be removed? How about the motor? If they can relatively easily be removed, do!
(2) As suggested make sure you get the wider sort of pallet truck - 600ish mm wide instead of 400ish IIRC.
(3) As to strapping it down - looks from the photos as if you may have no choice but to do so over the chip tray (under the bed). As others have said it might be best to do this with the pallet truck in place, so that you can anchor it direct to the truck forks.
(4) I would also get a couple of lengths of e.g. 2x2 and screw or bolt these to the pallet, either side of the cabinet base, so they prevent the lathe from shifting sideways on the pallet. These will also make sure it pulls off straight later in the process. (though one will need removing before sliding the lathe off the pallet, if you can't remove the lump at the side of the lathe).
(5) The suggestion of ramps to ease rolling it up onto the plywood/OSB is good - get these made.
(6) When you've moved the lathe over to the workshop door you will need plenty of packing material to rest the pallet on so that the lathe can be slid off. The top of the pallet will need to be level with the top of the sill. Idealy you would place packing under the full width of the pallet, front, centre and rear. So you might need a decent supply of thin planks, say 6" wide and at least as long as the pallet is wide... some reasonably thin ones would be good so that you can get the height just right.
(7) Might be worth double checking that the pallet truck will actually lift high enough (a little higher than the final position will be needed, to ensure you have space to insert the packing). If not then after lifting and packing as high as it will go, packing could be placed either above its forks for their full length (best, IMO) or under its wheels.
(8) When the pallet and lathe are packed up in place in front of the workshop door as above I'd consider screwing some short lengths of 2x2 vertically to the sleeper, either side of the pallet, to stop it shifting sideways as you move the lathe off it. May as well screw them to the pallet too, to lock it in place.
(9) Someone got there first but I was also going to suggest an anchor point at the back of the workshop opposite the doorway to pull the lathe off the pallet from. Is this do-able? An expanding-type Rawlbolt would do the job, with an adaptor made of e.g. angle iron to provide a decent sized hole to hook to. Google 'caving hanger' for some ideas. You might get away with M6 but M8 thread size would be reassuringly solid.
(10) Then to actually pull the lathe ideally perhaps a lever-operated chain 'come-along', but failing that maybe a chain fall or some sort of winch. What have you? Also, identify ahead of time how you'll attach your pulling device to the lathe, ideally as close to ground level as possible.
(1) Follow the great advice from earlier about one person being in charge at a time (but all can say 'stop' ).
(2) Place the pallet truck into the pallet in line with the lathe so the truck handle is at the headstock end - best to have the heaviest bit well between the wheels. Do some trial lifts and re-position if it seems not to be well balanced side to side.
(3) Lift no higher at any point than absolutely necessary to get the pallet clear of the ground.
(4) Might be an idea to practice moving it 6" or so then dropping it back down - dropping it down should be your reflex if anything starts moving too fast or whatever. Doing this should just stop everything safely and leave the pallet stable and secure on the ground.
(5) Absolutely drop it down onto the ground if you ever temporarily stop to e.g. move sheets of OSB around.
(6) Plan your OSB sheet placement so you end up with a full sheet right in front of the shed doorway, so that when you come to lifting and packing the pallet to height you're on a good stable base.
(7) When the lathe and pallet are in place at the workshop doorway, the tailstock end will already be filling much of the doorway. Will there be space for people to get past? Two of you will probably need to get inside for the 'pull' operation. Or maybe there's another entrance?
(8) This might be a good point for a cuppa!
Next post will cover sliding the lathe off the pallet and over the sill.
Edited By Bikepete on 03/11/2019 20:36:23
That looks a lot better/easier than I'd envisaged.
In light of the wise comments from some other contributors I'm wondering whether it is a responsible thing to give advice at all here (other than 'hire some professionals' ) but we're all (I assume) adults here and your (ChooChoo) decisions are your own. On that basis I'll suggest that it looks to be as if it _might_ be possible, at your own risk, to do it all with a pallet truck as I outlined on the previous page.
After answers to the following questions I'll outline how I would approach the job. But first:
(a) Will you definitely have at least one able-bodied helper? Possible an experienced volunteer from the forum might come forward to assist if you disclose a rough location.
(b) Is the pallet it is on now solid and not rotted?
(c) Is the lathe secured to the pallet at all? If so, how? A picture minus the tarp would be helpful.
(d) How does the height of the step into the workshop compare to the height of the pallet?
(e) Does the workshop doorway have a sill above its internal floor level, and if so, could this be temporarily removed? If not removeable, what height is it above the internal floor?
(f) In the last picture, is there plenty of space 'behind the camera'? Asking because it looks as if the lathe will need to be swung round so as to enter 'end on' into the workshop. If there's not the space for it to approach the doors at a right angle, that could complicate things.
Edited By Bikepete on 01/11/2019 19:53:08
As mentioned before, pictures and/or an annotated sketch (or whatever) to give further essential info are needed for people to provide meaningful advice - as it is, I think plenty of knowledgeable people here are keen to be helpful but on the limited info given so far we can only guess as to the actual situation and constraints.
I don't think a patio was even mentioned before... and you still have not told us what sort of 'ground' it needs moving over. Turf? Gravel? A narrow strip or a wide lawn? Gradients?
How high is the step? What is underneath supporting the patio? etc etc.
Until we have photos etc. to go on (and further answers to any questions which may arise from those), nobody can really give you meaningful advice on how to do this safely (other than 'hire some professionals' ).
Edited By Bikepete on 01/11/2019 14:01:01
Edited By Bikepete on 01/11/2019 14:01:32
Agree re more info needed... also about the step into the workshop - how high is it? What's the access around it like? Pictures are always helpful
But my first thought was that if it's already secured to a pallet, I'd suggest leaving it on the pallet for moving. That's if the pallet is sound - if not it might be worth getting (or making) one that is and shuffling the lathe over onto it (and then bolting and/or strapping it down so it can't tip).
Depending on the surface it needs to be moved over, a pallet truck might then be all you need, at least as far as the step into the workshop. Place the pallet edge right up against the step then, if the step is roughly the same height as the pallet, the lathe could potentially slide straight off the pallet onto the workshop floor.
|Thread: Meddings Driltru Handwheel (Star Wheel) Stiff|
Apologies Mike, I must have got called away and didn't spot this reply at the time. Seems you're now sorted but FWIW mine doesn't have play that I've noticed, but it is a little bit 'sticky' again when I tried it just now - perhaps I didn't take enough off for this hot weather!
I had exactly the same thing. I opened up the bush slighty by boring it on the lathe as I had no reamer to hand, but a reamer should work too.
|Thread: water supply|
Good find Dave (SOD). But I'm not sure that provision is relevant.
The definitions/interpretation of "inland waters" and "discrete waters" are given in the 1991 Water Resources Act:
It's possible a subsequent amendment changed these or they're defined elsewhere differently, but from that text they do not seem to me to include anything even vaguely interpretable as including rainwater collection.
“discrete waters” means inland waters so far as they comprise—
“inland waters” means the whole or any part of—
All you said applies to watercourses/ponds etc., but I don't see that it applies to rainwater collection. (I am not a lawyer!)
Edited By Bikepete on 16/06/2019 15:18:47
Just like you report from Belgium, Anglian Water actively encourage rainwater re-use:
Their latest charging T&Cs are here:
Click the " Customer charges 2019-2020 " link to get the full PDF.
The only relevant mention of rain or rainwater is to do with foul water sewerage charging on page 21 - if rainwater harvesting results in greater than expected inflows to the waste water sewer (because otherwise the rain would likely soak away) then they would charge for this. Which seems perfectly reasonable.
But it provides no confirmation at all that "what falls from the sky belongs to the water company"
Re the original quote which you refer to:
"And, to really turn the screw, you will find that if you try to collect rainwater to use it more 'constructively', you will be charged for it !"
"Note, I did say 'constructively' use, interpret that as you will. "
Rather than make people guess/interpret, why not just say what specific uses you believe you would be charged for?
Then it will be easy to fact check that against Anglia's website.
J Hancock, do you know for certain of a particular set of T&Cs that states what you say? If you could provide a company name or the name of a government body or whatever, I am fairly sure in a few seconds I could find their T&Cs online. I would be very interested to look up the actual wording of the original document.
This info, found in a few seconds too via the magic of Google, from a company in the industry, suggests that this "they own the rainwater" idea is an urban myth imported from the USA, where some states do have that sort of regulation:
"Is it legal to collect and use rainwater in the UK? The answer isn’t necessarily obvious if we look at precedents from elsewhere in the world. In the American state of Colorado, for instance, it is legal to sell water butts, to own them, but not to use them for the purpose for which they are intended! The water rights and laws of the arid Western US states go back 150 years to when it was a case of first come, first served for everything from land to gold digging claims to water rights. So a homeowner is deemed not to own the rainwater that falls on their property and it must not be harvested. The rainwater belongs to the owners of nearby water rights in the expectation that the rainwater will eventually make its way onto their groundwater supplies. It may seem ludicrous to us living in the damp climes of the UK but that system has a grounded basis in history as the article in the Washington Post explains very well. Rumours abound of individuals being prosecuted and even sent to prison for harvesting rainwater off their own roofs.
What Is The Legal Situation In The UK?
Scare stories like these from abroad may have planted seeds of doubt in the minds of UK citizens regarding the legality or otherwise of rainwater harvesting here in Britain. In fact, it is perfectly legal and actually encouraged by most water companies, especially in the drier south eastern counties where rainfall is significantly less than along the west coast.
However, whilst there is nothing to prevent householders from collecting rainwater, there are standards and regulations that apply, especially if a cross-connection is made to the mains water supply. There are also regulations governing the supply of water for consumption, as well as general health and safety rules as one would expect."
Edited By Bikepete on 16/06/2019 13:17:06
Edited By Bikepete on 16/06/2019 13:17:45
Edited By Bikepete on 16/06/2019 13:28:20
|Thread: Electricity Supply|
The actual source material is easy enough to find:
You can click through to download both the Main Report and the Technical Report.
The relevant quote from the Main report is from page 145:
"Heating in buildings. Deploying the Further Ambition options for heating buildings would result in emissions of 4 MtCO2e in 2050. This requires roll-out of technologies such as heat pumps, hybrid heat pumps and district heating in conjunction with hydrogen, and new smart storage heating, combined with high levels of energy efficiency. New homes should not be connected to the gas grid from 2025. By 2035 almost all replacement heating systems for existing homes must be low-carbon or ready for hydrogen, such that the share of low-carbon heating increases from 4.5% today to 90% in 2050. These changes could be made at an average cost of around £140/tCO2e. Remaining emissions in 2050 largely come from a small proportion of homes which could be very expensive to treat (e.g. due to space constraints and the costs of the heating systems they require)."
|Thread: Colchester Lathe Factory|
Or some helpful person could just post an active link
or embed it:
Edited By Bikepete on 30/05/2019 15:39:43
|Thread: Machinery movers?|
A very similar query came up recently and some of the answers there might be useful - see
|Thread: E.stop wiring|
Edited By Bikepete on 09/05/2019 10:46:50
|Thread: Quick question on Deckel tapers|
Doesn't sound like Deckel to me. Deckel mills either use shortish 4 Morse (older ones) or 40INT tapers (more modern ones). If it's for Deckel, the external thread will be 2mm pitch, saw-tooth thread form, 20mm OD.
Edited By Bikepete on 29/04/2019 21:50:05
|Thread: What DRO to get?|
I'm not Gary but I looked into this a few years ago too.
Short answer: buy one of these M-DRO "Summing" boxes and compatible DRO console and scales
Long answer: You need either
(a) a three axis console with a "summing" box as above feeding the Z input; or
(b) a DRO console with four inputs and the capability to "sum" two of them to display as Z. At the time I looked there were few options for this apart from some higher end models from Newall, and some top end models from e.g. Heidenhain (sit down for the price). But maybe in recent years that's changed...; or
(c) something like the now apparently discontinued M-DRO PC Interface Kit which had four inputs and (IIRC) Windows software that could do the 'summing' before displaying it on a PC monitor.
First option looks most realistic now.
|Thread: Machinery Directive and CE marking|
As usual in such regulations these definitions are in the "Interpretation" part of the Statutory Instrument. I already provided the exact link on page 1 of this thread but here it is again:
“responsible person” means, in relation to machinery or partly completed machinery—
(a) the manufacturer of that machinery or partly completed machinery; or
“safe” means, in relation to machinery, that when it is properly installed and maintained, and used for the purposes for which it is intended, or under conditions which can reasonably be foreseen, it does not—
FWIW I have found a reference in an official (but not legally binding) EU document that would seem to exempt hobby builders.
In the EU Blue Guide (a good official overview of how EU product safety works, and where Directives and standards etc fit in) on page 21 it remarks while discussing "placing on the market":
"Placing on the market is considered not to take place where a product is: — manufactured for one's own use. Some Union harmonisation legislation however covers products manufactured for own use in its scope (52) (53),..."
Footnote 52 notes that the Machinery Directive is among those which has 'own use' in its scope. But then Footnote 53 goes on to say:
"When Union harmonisation legislation covers own use, this does not refer to the occasional manufacturing for own use by a private person in a non-commercial context."
This seems like it could effectively exempt hobby builders from the scope of "harmonisation legislation", which as I understand it includes all and any Directives...
...but in e.g. the full text of the Machinery Directive, I can't see any mention of this, nor does the UK legal implementation which I linked to earlier state any such exemption in the text as far as I can tell.
Be interested Robert if you can shed any further light on this.
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