Here is a list of all the postings Bikepete has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Meddings Driltru Handwheel (Star Wheel) Stiff|
Apologies Mike, I must have got called away and didn't spot this reply at the time. Seems you're now sorted but FWIW mine doesn't have play that I've noticed, but it is a little bit 'sticky' again when I tried it just now - perhaps I didn't take enough off for this hot weather!
I had exactly the same thing. I opened up the bush slighty by boring it on the lathe as I had no reamer to hand, but a reamer should work too.
|Thread: water supply|
Good find Dave (SOD). But I'm not sure that provision is relevant.
The definitions/interpretation of "inland waters" and "discrete waters" are given in the 1991 Water Resources Act:
It's possible a subsequent amendment changed these or they're defined elsewhere differently, but from that text they do not seem to me to include anything even vaguely interpretable as including rainwater collection.
“discrete waters” means inland waters so far as they comprise—
“inland waters” means the whole or any part of—
All you said applies to watercourses/ponds etc., but I don't see that it applies to rainwater collection. (I am not a lawyer!)
Edited By Bikepete on 16/06/2019 15:18:47
Just like you report from Belgium, Anglian Water actively encourage rainwater re-use:
Their latest charging T&Cs are here:
Click the " Customer charges 2019-2020 " link to get the full PDF.
The only relevant mention of rain or rainwater is to do with foul water sewerage charging on page 21 - if rainwater harvesting results in greater than expected inflows to the waste water sewer (because otherwise the rain would likely soak away) then they would charge for this. Which seems perfectly reasonable.
But it provides no confirmation at all that "what falls from the sky belongs to the water company"
Re the original quote which you refer to:
"And, to really turn the screw, you will find that if you try to collect rainwater to use it more 'constructively', you will be charged for it !"
"Note, I did say 'constructively' use, interpret that as you will. "
Rather than make people guess/interpret, why not just say what specific uses you believe you would be charged for?
Then it will be easy to fact check that against Anglia's website.
J Hancock, do you know for certain of a particular set of T&Cs that states what you say? If you could provide a company name or the name of a government body or whatever, I am fairly sure in a few seconds I could find their T&Cs online. I would be very interested to look up the actual wording of the original document.
This info, found in a few seconds too via the magic of Google, from a company in the industry, suggests that this "they own the rainwater" idea is an urban myth imported from the USA, where some states do have that sort of regulation:
"Is it legal to collect and use rainwater in the UK? The answer isn’t necessarily obvious if we look at precedents from elsewhere in the world. In the American state of Colorado, for instance, it is legal to sell water butts, to own them, but not to use them for the purpose for which they are intended! The water rights and laws of the arid Western US states go back 150 years to when it was a case of first come, first served for everything from land to gold digging claims to water rights. So a homeowner is deemed not to own the rainwater that falls on their property and it must not be harvested. The rainwater belongs to the owners of nearby water rights in the expectation that the rainwater will eventually make its way onto their groundwater supplies. It may seem ludicrous to us living in the damp climes of the UK but that system has a grounded basis in history as the article in the Washington Post explains very well. Rumours abound of individuals being prosecuted and even sent to prison for harvesting rainwater off their own roofs.
What Is The Legal Situation In The UK?
Scare stories like these from abroad may have planted seeds of doubt in the minds of UK citizens regarding the legality or otherwise of rainwater harvesting here in Britain. In fact, it is perfectly legal and actually encouraged by most water companies, especially in the drier south eastern counties where rainfall is significantly less than along the west coast.
However, whilst there is nothing to prevent householders from collecting rainwater, there are standards and regulations that apply, especially if a cross-connection is made to the mains water supply. There are also regulations governing the supply of water for consumption, as well as general health and safety rules as one would expect."
Edited By Bikepete on 16/06/2019 13:17:06
Edited By Bikepete on 16/06/2019 13:17:45
Edited By Bikepete on 16/06/2019 13:28:20
|Thread: Electricity Supply|
The actual source material is easy enough to find:
You can click through to download both the Main Report and the Technical Report.
The relevant quote from the Main report is from page 145:
"Heating in buildings. Deploying the Further Ambition options for heating buildings would result in emissions of 4 MtCO2e in 2050. This requires roll-out of technologies such as heat pumps, hybrid heat pumps and district heating in conjunction with hydrogen, and new smart storage heating, combined with high levels of energy efficiency. New homes should not be connected to the gas grid from 2025. By 2035 almost all replacement heating systems for existing homes must be low-carbon or ready for hydrogen, such that the share of low-carbon heating increases from 4.5% today to 90% in 2050. These changes could be made at an average cost of around £140/tCO2e. Remaining emissions in 2050 largely come from a small proportion of homes which could be very expensive to treat (e.g. due to space constraints and the costs of the heating systems they require)."
|Thread: Colchester Lathe Factory|
Or some helpful person could just post an active link
or embed it:
Edited By Bikepete on 30/05/2019 15:39:43
|Thread: Machinery movers?|
A very similar query came up recently and some of the answers there might be useful - see
|Thread: E.stop wiring|
Edited By Bikepete on 09/05/2019 10:46:50
|Thread: Quick question on Deckel tapers|
Doesn't sound like Deckel to me. Deckel mills either use shortish 4 Morse (older ones) or 40INT tapers (more modern ones). If it's for Deckel, the external thread will be 2mm pitch, saw-tooth thread form, 20mm OD.
Edited By Bikepete on 29/04/2019 21:50:05
|Thread: What DRO to get?|
I'm not Gary but I looked into this a few years ago too.
Short answer: buy one of these M-DRO "Summing" boxes and compatible DRO console and scales
Long answer: You need either
(a) a three axis console with a "summing" box as above feeding the Z input; or
(b) a DRO console with four inputs and the capability to "sum" two of them to display as Z. At the time I looked there were few options for this apart from some higher end models from Newall, and some top end models from e.g. Heidenhain (sit down for the price). But maybe in recent years that's changed...; or
(c) something like the now apparently discontinued M-DRO PC Interface Kit which had four inputs and (IIRC) Windows software that could do the 'summing' before displaying it on a PC monitor.
First option looks most realistic now.
|Thread: Machinery Directive and CE marking|
As usual in such regulations these definitions are in the "Interpretation" part of the Statutory Instrument. I already provided the exact link on page 1 of this thread but here it is again:
“responsible person” means, in relation to machinery or partly completed machinery—
(a) the manufacturer of that machinery or partly completed machinery; or
“safe” means, in relation to machinery, that when it is properly installed and maintained, and used for the purposes for which it is intended, or under conditions which can reasonably be foreseen, it does not—
FWIW I have found a reference in an official (but not legally binding) EU document that would seem to exempt hobby builders.
In the EU Blue Guide (a good official overview of how EU product safety works, and where Directives and standards etc fit in) on page 21 it remarks while discussing "placing on the market":
"Placing on the market is considered not to take place where a product is: — manufactured for one's own use. Some Union harmonisation legislation however covers products manufactured for own use in its scope (52) (53),..."
Footnote 52 notes that the Machinery Directive is among those which has 'own use' in its scope. But then Footnote 53 goes on to say:
"When Union harmonisation legislation covers own use, this does not refer to the occasional manufacturing for own use by a private person in a non-commercial context."
This seems like it could effectively exempt hobby builders from the scope of "harmonisation legislation", which as I understand it includes all and any Directives...
...but in e.g. the full text of the Machinery Directive, I can't see any mention of this, nor does the UK legal implementation which I linked to earlier state any such exemption in the text as far as I can tell.
Be interested Robert if you can shed any further light on this.
I would suggest that as far as the Machinery Directive goes, the definitive source of info should be its implementation into UK law:
The key bit is probably
and definitions of e.g. "responsible person" are at
It's in legal language but it's perfectly understandable IMO (I am not a lawyer!). Reading this I would tend to agree with the original poster that there's no obvious exemption from the requirements for hobby or personal use.
Of course what it makes sense for us to do in real life is another question entirely...
Edited By Bikepete on 04/04/2019 21:04:38
|Thread: Cincinnati 207MK restoration|
A picture of its current condition would be interesting!
I'd probably be more inclined to make the effort if it also had a vertical head with it, to make the finished machine more versatile.
|Thread: Drilling Ball bearing balls|
I'd probably just buy e.g. one of these. Probably cost less than you'd spend on broken cutters
|Thread: Stiff Quill Travel on Myford VMC Milling-machine|
FWIW a few years ago I had a sticky quill on a Meddings drill press - in the end it turned out to be nothing to do with the quill itself. Instead it was a plastic bushing binding on the shaft that goes between the operating lever and the pinion that drives the quill rack. Worth checking this rotates freely...
Edited By Bikepete on 25/03/2019 08:48:58
|Thread: Hardinge HLV-H|
Glad it hit the spot . But all kudos should go to the original poster in that thread - very clever chap.
IIRC I had no need to pin the 37-47, as on mine one of the original Hardinge banjo studs included a sleeve with long key onto which I could mount both gears rigidly together. Of course what you have on yours may differ.
Pretty sure I bought my 47 T gear - might be worth a hunt around for sellers unless you really fancy making it.
On the second question about the 37/47 - I think that's the case but am away from my workshop just now so can't get a visual reminder. Pretty sure I had the same question and scribbled something about it on the threading chart which I printed out to make it completely clear (e.g. which way round the 37/47 goes) - far too easy to forget these details if time elapses between set-ups... but it's easy enough to experiment and get it clear once you have the gears.
You'll also have spotted the photo of the set-up for 2 mm pitch on the second page of that thread...
Yup here you go, complete with charts to print out etc.
Read the whole thread, as it goes through a few different variations. I bring up using Myford gears at the bottom of the first page. All works perfectly and have cut many a thread with this set-up (on a narrow bed HLV-BK, but pretty sure HLV-H is the same). Uses the original (imperial) banjo so all you need is the Myford changewheels.
|Thread: Mystery Milling Vice|
Also note that when I got mine, the 'two stage' action was not working. This was because the spindle assembly had been incorrectly assembled. It was a few years ago now but as I recall:
There should be a Allen-head grub screw somewhere on the circumference of the big knurled knob. Loosen this and unscrew the inner threaded spindle. Clean and lube. You'll see there is a sort of sprung face cam with a step which controls the 'two stage' action. On mine this had been assembled 'locked solid'.
As I recall all it needed was for the knurled ring to be backed off a few turns to provide space for the cam to move, and re-tighten the grub screw.
You'll probably have no problem figuring it out once the spindle is removed (and the first image I posted should also be helpful)
If you have lost all the markings on the two or three-position clamping force adjuster, try wiggling it with the Allen key as you tighten - you should be able to feel the 2 or 3 'flats' where the cam seats in each of the 2/3 positions.
Just in case it's not clear from the German instructions to use the vice there are three stages:
(1) Turn either the knurled knob by hand or use the handle (on the hex spindle). Jaws move 6mm per rev until contact is make with the workpiece.
(2) Turn the handle (on the hex spindle) a little more until it clicks - there is now 3-4 kN pre-tension on the jaws, and the knurled knob stops moving.
(3) now finish turning the handle until it reaches its hard stop (set by the 2 or 3 position cam) so that the full clamp force is applied (takes surprisingly little force). STOP at that point as trying to move the handle further will damage the vice.
Hope that gets you going
Edited By Bikepete on 10/03/2019 11:10:21
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