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Member postings for Terryd

Here is a list of all the postings Terryd has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Unusual thread
19/12/2012 14:22:34
Posted by Ady1 on 18/12/2012 12:30:33:

...................
A victorian brassworks would have considered a dimension holding 8 thou accuracy to be high precision. Their lathes wouldn't have had dials at all and the workers would have measured dimensions with calipers against their wooden rulers though the forman would have perhaps had a precious brass rule marked in 64ths.

Hi Ady,

Why do you say that lathes from that era, even in a brassworks, wouldn't have dials?

Regards

Terry

Thread: First lathe
19/12/2012 02:10:12
Posted by SLOTDRILLER on 18/12/2012 21:30:31:

Hi Chris ,

Congrats on the new lathe !

.....................................the .

Terry,

Is there any specific additive in the dry lube that you are looking for or just teflon ?

I had though of using something similar but was unsure if it would work and it would help to keep the machine much cleaner as well .

I also would like to try this for the slideways of my mill as once i fit the DRO to the front of the mill table the useless little button oiler that is fitted will not be accessable .

I was thinking i could wind the table to each end and give the dovetails a spray .

Ian .

Hi Ian,

I'm not sure about other additives but it is a dry (but goes on wet for penetration) teflon based lubricant for applications including extreme pressure such as machine slideways. I can't find the actual data sheet at the moment but it is very similar to this one.

Yes it does help to keep the machine clean, I use an aerosol based one and it lasts. Just my own opinions based on experience,

Regards

Terry

Edited By Terryd on 19/12/2012 02:11:55

Thread: Lathe gears
18/12/2012 14:19:20
Posted by Versaboss on 18/12/2012 11:07:43:

Yes, a good introduction inTerry's (first) link above. However, what irritates me a bit is the first sentence, stating that the module...indicates how big or small a gear is. In my - admittedly quite limited - understanding 'big or small' is referencing the diameter of a gear, or maybe the thickness or weigght (not relevant in this case)..........................

Greetings, Hansrudolf

Hi Hansrudolf,

thanks for pointing that out, I actually meant 'how big the gear teeth are', but of course this is also related to the size of the gear diameter. For example a 60t gear of 0.833mod. would be 50 mm diameter, while a 60t gear of 1.5dp would be 90 mm diameter, hence the size of the gear wheel is relative to the module for a given number of teeth.

I apologise for my omission and oversight and hope that I have not irritated you so much as to spoil your Christmas celebrations.

Best regards and seasons greetings,

Terry

18/12/2012 10:35:17

Hi Jason,

Thanks for the kind comment. sorry about the length of this posting but you did ask wink 2.

Cycloidal and involute are two types of geometric curve. A gear tooth in profile can have part of one or other of these shapes. Gears in mesh should have the same profile to prevent wear..

Imagine a bicycle wheel, the tyre valve at the bottom. When you roll the wheel along until the valve is at the bottom again. The curve that the valve makes is a 'cycloid'. If you roll the wheel around a circle it is an epicycloid, roll it inside a circle and it is a hypocycloid. clock gears are usually epi- and hypocycloids using a bit of the curve as the profile:

Cycloid

cycloid.jpg

Epicycloid

epicycloid.jpg

Hypocycloid

hypocycloid.jpg

Cycloidal gears - note the use of a bit of a cycloidal curve for the profile

cycloidal gears.jpg

To make an involute tie a pencil to the end of a thread on a fixed cotton reel then draw a line keeping the thread taut and as it unwinds you will draw an involute. Involute gears are the usual profile for power gears.

Involute

involute.jpg

Involute gears using a bit of the curve for the profile of the tooth

involute gear teeth.jpg

 

These gear profiles are used because the surfaces roll together rather than slide over each other so wear is minimized.

Hope that helps a bit.

Best regards and seasons greetings,

Terry

Edited By Terryd on 18/12/2012 10:48:32

18/12/2012 09:19:57

Hi James,

The size of a gear is determined by the 'Diametral pitch' (used for imperial gears) or 'Module' (metric gears). The diametral pitch is the number of teeth per inch of its diameterm Module is DP / 25.4.

Of course it's not quite that simple (it never is) as the pitch diameter of a gear is not the same as it's overall diameter. Instead of 2 gears, imagine two wheels in their place running rim to rim, their diameters are the pitch diameters. To make gears you add projections to the rims of the wheels - the 'addendum', but in order to allow them to mesh you have to make cutouts to clear the new teeth - this is called the 'dedendum', but the pitch diameter is still the same. See, clear as mud.

The link below gives a simple introduction and may clarify my poor description above

for a simple introduction to gears and modules - which determines the number of teeth on a particular gear size see here. However they use the term 'circumference' which is the same as 'pitch diameter'.

For some more complex references see here.

Ivan Law's book 'Gears and Gear Cutting' is a good basic introduction - available from Amazon or MHS.

Regards

Terry

Thread: First lathe
17/12/2012 22:04:47
Posted by Bazyle on 17/12/2012 18:53:34:

Why clean off the original protection (apart from slides obviously)? Does it do something bad?

..............

Because it is intended solely for anti corrosion purposes, not lubrication and will attract and retain a lovely abrasive mix of swarf, grit and other unsavoury particles, Yummy

T

17/12/2012 21:59:29
Posted by Bazyle on 17/12/2012 18:53:34:

Why clean off the original protection (apart from slides obviously)? Does it do something bad?

Wondering about that camelia oil. Being vegetable based won't it go off?....

It has been used successfully for centuries by some of the best metalworkers and woodworkers in history, so I'm quite happy to use it as I have for over 5 years with no problem.

But who am I to say.

T

Edited By Terryd on 17/12/2012 22:00:38

17/12/2012 17:03:49
Posted by Chris Parsons on 17/12/2012 13:33:37:

I am eagerly waiting for Santa to deliver my first lathe (hopefully on Thursday) and have some 'getting started' questions?

..........................

I have some 'Copaslip' but presumably it would be a good idea to also buy some slideway oil? Do I use the this same oil in the oil ports, and to replace the protective grease removed after cleaning? Is car engine oil or 3-in-1 not suitable?


Thanks

Chris

Hi Chris,

Congrats on getting your first lathe. Don't worry too much about the legendary casting sand, I have had none in any of my Chinese Machines - 4 so far - even my ultra cheapo Seig C0 was good and clear of grit. After inspection I just cleaned off the anti rust grease (usually lanolin wax or similar) with white spirit and then alcohol to get it spotless and lubricate with a suitable lubricant such as has been suggested. I have found no problem with the factory adjustments of gib keys etc.

The reason motor oil is frowned upon is that it contains detergents, which in a vehicle helps to keep the sludge etc in suspension until it can be filtered out, as well as other additives. In a lathe there is no filter and the lack of detergent allows the sludge and damaging particles to fall to the bottom of the gearbox where they are relatively harmless. A few years of occasional use probably will cause no problem but for the low cost of suitable oil ask yourself - 'is it worth the risk'? You won't know until your bearings wear out and then blame the manufacturer. 3-in-1 is, in my opinion too low a viscosity to be of much use in a machine (except sewing machines etc with relatively light loading), but I stand to be corrected.

Copaslip is really just an anti sieze grease with a high melting point so that it can be used where parts are to be disassembled infrequently or in high temperature situations such as the sliding surfaces of brake pads and shoes (only a smear) where little actual movement takes place. It is anti corrosive so can be used on screw threads to prevent siezing, it has little use for greasing where movement takes place. To quote the manufacturer - "Copaslip is an anti-sieze pre-assembly compound for use in any temperature from sub-zero to 1100ºC " see here for the data sheet

Personally, I use high pressure dry lubricants for my slideways - including cross slide etc and in some other areas of my machines, they don't attract particles that the heavier oils and trad. greases do, and if it's good enough for NASA, it's good enough for me - and it's my problem if they fail to do the job, but so far no problem. They are not cheap but neither was my lathe. I use recommended machine oils (or 'equivalent' as they say) for some oiling points.

I use camellia oil for rust proofing when leaving the machines for any length of time just a wipe over is enough. The Japanese have used it for protecting tools and swords for centuries and it works.

Best regards and enjoy your aquisition,

Terry

Thread: Chinese Lathe Accessories.
17/12/2012 09:56:10

Surely one has to do very little real design to copy parts for 'high end vintage cars', a bit of drawing - yes, design - no. Does the original poster even understand what 'design' really involves?

Hi KWIL,

Why spoil the fun? wink 2

Terry

17/12/2012 09:48:36
Posted by John Stevenson on 16/12/2012 22:26:23:

As for your kind offer of not doing work for me, I already have a trusted team that do my work. Real craftsmen with good British machines and they don`t have a problem with discussing tolerances. In fact they work to them unlike you that can`t even give the tolerances that you are working to for the bore diameter in those Myford gears.

Alan

You seem to have a knack for either misreading or ignoring posts..........................

Hi John,

I just wonder why someone with a 'trusted team' using 'British machines' who work to high 'tolerances' is doing buying Myford gears from RDG in the first place crook.

As far as British machines are concerned I remember buying British cars, motorbikes, washing machines etc etc. Not always great stuff all leaving much to be desired. it was often about the same as the poor Chines/Indian stuff available now, remember the Morris Marina/Ital anyone?. Take off those heavily rose tinted spectacles occasionally when looking back with 'regret'.

I believe even Dyson doesn't have their stuff made in the UK any longer

Thanks for your earlier P.M. John, I'll reply properly as soon as I can.

Best regards

Terry

Thread: Can't drill through lathe stand base plate
16/12/2012 22:20:28

Hi John,

A jobbers HSS drill these days is usually made from cobalt high speed steel and TiN is simply a coating for HSS drills, not an alloy. See here,

Regards

Terry

Thread: Chinese Lathe Accessories.
16/12/2012 22:13:05
Posted by HomeUse on 16/12/2012 19:59:02:

Wow - this is forming into a good thread.

I have just read through all the postings and have, "come to a sort of a conclusion".

We are "engineers" looking for perfection in the products we have and use.

The first requirement seems to be "a virgin that is fit for purpose" ( They could be Asian, Italian, German or any from any other country)

The second requitement is " the virgin must be able to perform the action that you require it to do"

The third requirement would be "the virgin should be accurate in all movements wheather back or forward. side to side and up and down,

The fourth is " the virgin should perform at the speed that is applicable to the task being performed"

Fifth " there should not be any drop off in speed or power when the working gets harder"

Sixth - You fill it in - I am going out in the workshop (Shed) to make some pure British SWARF and then have a good rub down with mistletoe before I paint the berry juce on


And what gender would that be sir? Or does it matter?

Edited By Terryd on 16/12/2012 22:13:28

Thread: Stringer EW lathe
16/12/2012 17:47:31
Posted by V8Eng on 12/12/2012 19:50:18:

In 1953 the adverts suggest you could have bought an ML7 for £48 and five shillings (48.25), without motor but with a motor pulley.

Using the same source of information about wages the current weekly figure is £465.

.........................................

Edited By V8Eng on 12/12/2012 20:04:17

So you can buy a rather nice Seig C3 (180mm x 300 mm) from Arc for around 1 weeks wages (complete with motor) or a really nice Super C6 (250 x 550mm) for just over 2 1/2 weeks wages.

Seasons greetings to all,

Terry

Thread: Iphone/ Ipad apps
16/12/2012 16:35:25

Me too,

T

Thread: DROs for an X2
16/12/2012 10:58:40

Hi Ian,

I am also puzzled by the title of this thread, I was looking for some more enlightenment as I am thinking of adding DRO to my milling machine.

However, I have also used The Little Machine Shop for stuff (below VAT threshold) and have found the guy helful and efficient.

Best regards

Terry

Thread: Chinese Lathe Accessories.
16/12/2012 10:48:15
Posted by Ketan Swali on 16/12/2012 10:34:24:
Posted by Terryd on 16/12/2012 01:24:09:
What is your problem - Freud would have a field day with your postings.

Best regards

Terry

Edited By Terryd on 16/12/2012 01:24:41

Terry,

I think Freud would enjoy this topic, and I think we would all be prime candidates, including you, me, JS...nothing personal...just an observation ..otherwise how could you explain the fact that we are enjoying this so much?

Ketan.


Hi Ketan,

No offence taken, it's all quite amusing really, teeth 2

As for why we enjoy it? I suppose it is for the same reason that people enjoyed Bear and Badger Baiting, Cock fighting and Bullfighting. But this is less cruel to animals. Time now for that button wink 2

Best regards

Terry

This is much less fun now I pressed the 'kill' button (first time ever for me) wink 2

Regards

T

Edited By Terryd on 16/12/2012 10:52:24

16/12/2012 10:37:57
Posted by alan smith 6 on 15/12/2012 19:12:28:

John Stevenson is suddenly speechless when confronted with simple questions. I hope that he will reply as he promises, otherwise we can just ignore his posts as hype.

No Reply from Terry, Likewise.

Ketan, This was a hypothetical question no reference to RDC. You have not answered the question correctly, I will reveal all once those other foggers have deigned to answer the same question, if they ever do!

Alan

Ps, Surely backplates should be made from cast Iron!

Edited By alan smith 6 on 15/12/2012 19:20:23

Edited By alan smith 6 on 15/12/2012 19:26:10


Very sorry Alan not to have waited with baited breath for you next gems of deep and profound thought. I was busy having a life in my workshop and getting ready for the first of our family gatherings for the festive season.

I'll be more attentive to your needs in future, or perhaps I'll press the 'ignore member' button.

Best wishes for the season of goodwill !!

Terry

16/12/2012 10:29:22
Posted by David Clark 1 on 16/12/2012 09:51:03:

Hi There

Spelling errors.

I have just gone through this thread and corrected several errors in spelling.

Please note China ends with an 'A'' not a k or ky.

Chinese ends with an 'ESE' not with a k or ky.

This is not the place to discuss fireworks or curries.

regards David

Edited By David Clark 1 on 16/12/2012 09:53:23


yes yes yes Well said David.

India was the centre for iron and steel technology about 1000 years before the Anglo Saxons even invaded these islands. They were able to produce high carbon steels (similar to Wootz steel aka the legendary Damascus steel) and was exporting it when the inhabitants of these isles were painting themselves blue and living in mud huts.

The Chinese had a flourishing civilsation and were technologically advanced, making advanced forged steel in the fifth century BC while we were worshipping Misletoe and sacrificing virgins at midsummer.

A bit more than curry and fireworks, we have a lot to thank those civilisations for.

Best regards.

Terry

Thread: Chain driven cams ?
16/12/2012 10:17:50

Hi Siddley.

I have little experience of model ic engines but would it not be possible to use a toothed belt to drive your camshaft as in full size practice?

Although of a different design to the one you are proposing, Jan Ridders uses toothed belt cam drive on some of his i.c. engines. His collection of engines on his website are worth studying as he is a prolific designer and builder of steam, Flame eater, Stirling and i.c engines. He also offers his plans for free!

Regards

Terry

Thread: Chinese Lathe Accessories.
16/12/2012 01:24:09
Posted by alan smith 6 on 15/12/2012 16:41:09:
.....................

Terry, do you think that a minus 20 thou on a gear bore diameter is ok? Lucky for RDG that they have customers like you. No metaphors OK.

...................................

Alan

Edited By alan smith 6 on 15/12/2012 16:48:07

Edited By alan smith 6 on 15/12/2012 16:49:48

In answer to your first question NO. As for your second point all I will say is that I know my rights under the 'Sale or Goods Act 1979 (as Amended)' and the Distance Selling Regulations, I question suppliers courteously but firmly and am never satisfied with substandard goods. Why do you have a problem understanding that?

Is it because I (and others) are not intent on reinforcing your own prejudices and prefer to state our own experiences? What is your problem - Freud would have a field day with your postings.

Best regards

Terry

Edited By Terryd on 16/12/2012 01:24:41

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