Here is a list of all the postings Ian Johnson 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: How not to use a clamp|
Just watched Ade's S50 build part 3, now the poor guy feels he has to explain himself because of the comments on here. Give it a rest please, there was nothing wrong with his set up.
|Thread: Warco VM 15 Mill - Instruction Manual / Vice Advice|
I've got the 70mm type 2 precision vice from Arc Euro and it is excellent, well made, very accurate and sturdy. You could fit the bigger 90mm on your table and have plenty of room to spare.
I've not found the need to get a tilting vice so can't really comment, I've always tilted the job in some sort of fixture, or with a clamping arrangement on a face plate, or in the vice itself.
|Thread: Advice for surface finishing|
For added info on the DCMT tips, I use them to avoid grinding HSS (too messy and noisy!) But another reason is that the 55 degree point allows the tool to get really close to a revolving centre for machining small diameters.
I also get mine from JB cutting tools, mainly from their stands at steam fairs and bike shows, shame there wasn't any shows last year! Hopefully see them this year?
|Thread: Further Adventures with the Sieg KX3 & KX1|
Good stuff Jason, turned out great as usual, I'm getting to like the adaptive machining it doesn't seem to put as much stress on the tool, and your air blower works well, I've got a small 9ltr shhh ultra quiet compressor from Machine Mart, bit expensive but does the job very well and it is really quiet, I have got an air gun to blow the chips away but it just blows them all over the place! So your low pressure set up is something to consider.
|Thread: Advice for surface finishing|
Your inserts may be at fault, some have a negative top rake and are more suitable for industrial machines which can take heavier cuts and are sturdier than hobby machines. These are my DCMT 070204 for aluminium, they have a positive top rake. I use them to cut everything, stainless, mild steel, brass, plastic etc. very sharp and leave a great surface finish, ideal for small machines.
Your photo looks like there is vibration to the left, but improving towards the threaded end where I presume it was held in the chuck, I couldn't tell from the photo but your part may need centre drilling for tail stock support, which will improve surface finish.
|Thread: Benchtop lathe with power cross feed, looking to buy|
Not a lot wrong with the Mini Lathe, although it could do with a bit more grunt to take bigger cuts. I have one, and also a small mill, but I do have the use of a Colchester Triumph lathe and a much bigger mill to cover the bigger jobs.
I have also been looking at upgrading to a larger lathe like you, and the Sieg SC4 (as sold by Arc Euro) is my realistic choice. It has cross feed, hi torque brushless motor, benchtop etc fits your requirements quite nicely. But it hasn't got a quick change gearbox, it has change wheels.
Personally I wouldn't go for the combined lathe/mill combo, because you will inevitably need to use the lathe when you are set up for the mill or vice versa.
|Thread: Markem dye|
1.1.1. Trichloroethane is the best solvent for thinning marking dye, pity it's classed as unobtanium these days!
|Thread: What nut and bolt material?|
I've got a Leatherman multi tool which is made of black stainless steel, or I should say stainless steel which has been blackened. So maybe it is a thing?
|Thread: The Repair Shop is getting to me...|
The Repair Shop is a bit too 'twee' for me. And it's constant heart wrenching tear jerking sad stories of how long the rusty forgotten piece of junk has been in the family really annoys me! Maybe I need to find a bit more empathy?
A far far better programme is Salvage Hunters the Restorers, it's on Quest TV and they go into a lot more detail of how they actually repair the pieces, without the sob stories, straight to point, how much is it worth now!
IanJ the tin man
|Thread: Lady Stephanie|
Hi Alan is this what you need? I took the photo from my plans, if it's not clear I can scan them. My lady stephanie is still a bix of castings and lumps of metal, one day I might get round to making it!
|Thread: First attempt at gear cutting|
Nicely done Steve I didn't realise how small they were until I got a five pence piece out of my pocket!
|Thread: Motorcycle General Discussion|
Finally managed to upload a couple of photos of my MK3 Commando, Then realised the photos were over forty years apart!!! Time flies!
This is how I bought it around 1978-79ish. I put the air horns and dayglo stripe on the fairing, caught many a speeder with that haha!
And forty years later in 2020 having its third attempt at restoration. I'm determined to put a bit more effort into doing it up this time and actually getting it on the road. Need to spend at least a couple of thousand quid on it yet!
Hi Peter I didn't know the black caps were designed by Gordon Blair, I like them because they give a nice burbling sound to the bike and I think they look good, but the reverse cones give a more traditional rorty twin sound.
I got let off speeding when riding my MK3 doing forty something in a thirty zone, it was years ago when I had the police fairing on it, the copper must have felt sorry for me too!
106,000 miles on a CB550F and I bet the engine was in better condition than a Norton with similar mileage
Yep £13,000 for MK3 is believable and other 750 and 850 Commandos have been selling for stupid money in the UK, especially if they are so called 'original' but they are definitely not worth that amount of money. Put the word 'classic' on a machine and people go all dewy eyed and raid their pension pot!
I suppose I'm fortunate with my MK3 because it's ex Liverpool police and I can do what I like with it, loads of stainless fixings, alloy rims with stainless spokes, new Amal carbs etc. And I'll bin the Prestolite starter for a better unit. With all the non original bits and pieces the value won't change that much, I expect I'll get back all the thousands I've put into it over the years.
Edit: Oh! and I'll be putting black cap silencers on it too! (don't like the reverse cone things)
Edited By Ian Johnson 1 on 28/12/2020 23:52:03
That's rather nice. It's a MK3 Commando like mine, I'll put some piccies up soon, it's in a state of partial renovation.
And I'm beginning to think that I'm the only one who prefers the black cap silencers! I will be fitting black caps to mine!
|Thread: Flame resistant material|
How about cutting up some of those fake logs used on gas fires? Can't remember what they are made of but it is definitely fire proof we have them on our gas fire
|Thread: Obtaining Serifed steel punches|
I think it's just the camera angle Bill, here is a photo of a simple dividing head I made a while back, the graduation numbering was done with the same 1/16" punches with a rubbish jig to hold them but they came out okay
I thought I had a set of Pryor letter punches but it turns out I haven't! My 1/16" punches are made by Priority (made in England) and Priory (don't know where they were made)
But anyway they seem to be aligned okay.
Is Pryor the same as Priority the same as Priory????
|Thread: Polishing Delrin|
Hi Dave I have made small parts in black acetal. To get a nice uniform finish I have flame polished the parts, just waft a propane flame over the part until it looks glossy, but not too long or it will bubble and ruin it. I ended up with a lovely satin gloss finish which felt really smooth to the touch.
Another technique is to use use a nail polishing buffing block, like the manicurists use. they have the sequence 1,2,3,4 with 4 being the polishing side
|Thread: Delay to Issue 299|
Got my Model Engineers Workshop today in the post. Any delays to my post (UK) is almost always due to Royal Mail, they have horrendous backlogs according to our local postie, I'm still waiting for two parcels after nearly three weeks . Deliveries by carrier is usually pretty good.
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