Here is a list of all the postings Ian Johnson 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Tormach in the UK|
This is good news, there is a definite gap in the market for machines like these.
Oh! And is anyone going to tell Tormach that the union jack is upside down?
|Thread: An explanation of CNC machining terms|
It'll be interesting to see what can be made on the routing table John. As for cnc terminology a good guess is usually correct! And G code is G code.
But if you are new to CNC and cad/cam I can recommend a book by Dr. Marcus Bowman titled CNC milling in the workshop. Very informative and well laid out, it refers to programming with Vectric cut2d and Vcarve, linux CNC and mach 3 and other software packages, including MeshLab which may be connected to Meshcam?
That is weird indeed! I have been using white paint marker pens for darker metals like cast iron and black mild steel, but now after seeing this post I want some red Dykem and now I can't get it! Last time I bought a pot of blue Dykem was from RDG at a Model Engineering Show a few years ago. Now every supplier is out of stock! RDG don't stock it either. What's going on???
|Thread: CNC - What's the Problem?|
Not many companies sell ready made CNC mills for all the reasons Jason stated, Axminster and Arc Euro pulled out of the CNC market at around the same time for various reasons including support difficulties, people making their own from manual mills and a small market, they were both selling essentially the same machines too.
For hobbyists I can only think of Amadeal in the UK who are still selling CNC mills, with their Syil X5, but I think the operating system is Mach3 which is no longer supported by New Fangled Solutions, they only support the later Mach4 system. Worth checking this out though, if buying one!
Another hobby CNC manufacturer is Tormach in the USA, but I don't think there is a UK distributor. So options are a bit limited in the UK, so it seems like the best option is to make your own by converting a manual mill into a CNC.
Second hand factory made CNC mills seem to be thin on the ground too, I can't remember when I last saw a Sieg KX1 like mine for sale.
|Thread: Milling Vice clamps|
I had the same problem with clamps denting the table, so I made these in the pic, they are little aluminium blocks machined to the same height as the vice slots, the steel top clamp can be bolted down spreading the load evenly. It'll do until I make better looking one piece clamps.
Weirdly this is a new cast iron longer table which dents easily, softer than aluminium! the old smaller cast iron table didn't dent at all, must be made of tougher stuff!
|Thread: New series by Tim Hunkin|
Brilliant! Still remember his how a fax machine works episode, all explained in a light hearted but very informative way.
Thanks for the heads up, I'll hunt down the new series
|Thread: Warco mini lathe|
Hi Andy I have put 4 photos of the manual for this lathe in my photo album, under warco mini lathe, from a request from John. they explain the function buttons and how to use the 'M' button. Little bit of chinese English to wade through, but John worked it out okay.
I still haven't used the 'm' function yet! My machine always starts at the last speed used, no need to keep pressing the speed buttons, you may have inadvertently pressed the memory function by mistake.
I have the manual, if you need more info I can take some photos of the relevant pages.
|Thread: Lady Stephanie|
No problem Alan glad to help out. Hope the covid issues get sorted! I've got my first jab booked in the next couple of weeks!
Can't see me starting the lady stephanie any time soon, I've been making the stothert and Pitt beam engine for what seems like a lifetime! But John carruthers model is really nice and could provide some inspiration.
|Thread: Why do plumbing fittings have cast nuts?|
Yes the Male fittings are made from solid bar, probably on a sliding head CNC. I don't think the nuts are hot stamping produced, because they lack the incredible detail, the lettering and surface finish is very poor.
I can understand economy of scale manufacturing for millions of pieces, still not sure of how the nuts are made though. The surface finish looks like a brass casting to me, a sintered piece would maybe be smoother? Not sure what a hot pressed brass nut surface looks like, but anything pressed on a die would be smoother and more detailed?
I bought some brass plumbing connectors today, 1/2" bsp to 1/4"bsp male thread. The main body is machined out of solid brass bar, but the nuts look like they are cast and then machined.
This got me wondering why? Why go to the trouble of casting something and then machining the threads, using different processes and probably different factories, surely it would be quicker and easier to machine them out of hexagon bar, in the same factory which makes the main body?
|Thread: Warco mini lathe|
Reply sent John, quite speedy and efficient for me! Must be having a good day!
Glad to help John.
To turn the motor on you press the spindle rotation buttons either side of the red button (this is the spindle stop button) the left button is forward for normal machining and the right button is reverse. The + and - buttons regulate the spindle speed, you can use these buttons while the machine is running to adjust the revs to suit your job.
I have never used the 'm' button I think it's a 'memory' function, I'll need to look at the manual to be certain. So I wouldn't worry about it.
And there is the big emergency stop button, mine stopped working years ago, couldn't be bothered to fix it, so left it alone because the lathe works just as well without it. So I wouldn't worry about that either!
I think I have the same model John, the one with the USA made main circuit board.
Is this photo any use to you?
|Thread: What Did You Do Today 2021|
Made a little 4th axis tailstock for my Sieg KX1, mainly out of aluminium with brass thumb screws (you may recognise the top one from my video posted in the CNC page the other day).
It works quite well too, just need to find a job for it now!
|Thread: Further Adventures with the Sieg KX3 & KX1|
Thanks Jason I think it produces a decent V shape, but like Ron pointed out it can look a bit 'off' if not set up correctly, it will produce a 'L' shape, although it will still be 90 degrees. I have made a few knobs and wheels with this method, mainly to get used to using the 4th axis.
You are right Ron, the V is not perfect, I aligned the cutter edge to 45 degrees from the centre of the job, moved the Y and Z axis equally and was out by a few thou! I think the Z axis zeroed itself, or I pressed zero by mistake and I over corrected the error.
I've not done a lot of CNC work on my KX1 recently, but I am making a little tailstock for the 4th axis, just in case I want to do some gear cutting on a mandrel or something that requires supporting.
This is a little M6 brass thumb screw for the tailstock. I prefer a spline (or grooves) rather than a knurl, I think it looks better and gives better grip.
So if you want a bit of CNC action here's a link to a short YouTube video of machining the splines on the KX1, using my handwritten program for 18 splines. Works quite well!
If the link doesn't work here is a photo instead (with the 4th axis in the background)
Edited By JasonB on 14/02/2021 07:04:39
|Thread: New member|
Hi Paul welcome to the forum, sounds like you have a great workshop and machines.
Reading about your electrical issues I think you should dip into your bank account and drag out a wedge of cash, and give it to a electrician who knows what they are doing, get it all fixed then enjoy using the machines safe in the knowledge that they won't blow up and burn your house down!
|Thread: BA threads|
A lot of 'approximately and aboutery' here! If that explanation is true (wikipedia) then all thread angles are based on guesswork and experience, with companies and governments wanting to protect their product and standards with their special and unique thread forms.
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