Here is a list of all the postings Roger Vane has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Myford ML7 or Super 7|
When I was buying my Myford new in 1971 I had a look at both the Super 7 and the ML7, and decided that I just had to afford the Super 7. The Super 7 has a much better (higher) speed range with spindle bearings to cope, more powerful motor as standard, a self ejecting tailstock, clutch, longer cross slide, better top slide with full 360 degree rotation, etc, etc. Also power cross feed with the later machines.
For more information about these machines I'd suggest that you have a look at **LINK**.
You will almost certainly pay more for a Super 7 of equivalent age and condition, but I think that you'll find the extra expense is well worth it, If you can find a machine with a gearbox (screw-cutting) then so much the better as it will give you a good range of power feeds as well.
Good luck with your hunt for a machine.
|Thread: TurboCAD Explode/Create Fragmentation?|
I've spotted this problem from time to time with both TC 6 Pro and TC 20 DL.
Certainly one cause appears to be 'over-exploding', where you actually explode the entity itself into smaller segments. You will probably need to select and explode twice - all too easy to do when you're paying attention to the design itself. Suggest you draw a circle and try it. You can then re-group them back into the single entity.
There may be other causes that I'm not aware of, but the above is certainly one problem.
All the best, Roger
|Thread: Warco VMC turret mill.|
I'm very pleased with my VMC, which I've been using for the last 5 years or so. I've undertaken various enhancements including fitting an inverter, DROs and a raising block, which have all improved the versatility of the machine.
Totally agree with Vic that the 1.5 HP motor is perfectly adequate, and if you have the 3-phase motor and an inverter you retain high torque levels right down through the rev range. The belts on my VMC are almost permanently set to 1180 rpm - think that I've changed them only a couple of times in the last 5 years. With the inverter you can program a 20% overspeed (effectively 60 cps) at one end of the rev range, while at the other end (jog) it is ideal for tapping under power. The best time to get the 3-phase motor is when you order the machine - I wanted an imperial / 3-phase / R8 machine which although non-standard Warco ordered as a special - this will save you around £200 (replacing a single phase motor) which should almost pay for the inverter. Would also recommend the remote controller with speed control at the turn of a knob - no more tedious and time-consuming belt changing.
The R8 taper is much kinder to the spindle bearings when removing tooling when compared to 3 MT - a gentle tap and it releases and well worth the investment in new tooling. A wide range of tooling is readily available at reasonable cost.
For the work that I do I found that a 4" raising block was essential if I was to gain the maximum from the machine - my article in MEW 215 onwards shows how I tackled the job using a Myford S7. The only thing to be aware of is that with the knee at a new maximum height in relation to the spindle nose it's possible to disengage the Z-axis leadscrew, and it's a real pain to re-engage - you only do it once.
Hope that this helps.
|Thread: Making a Tender water tank|
When I made the tanks for my 5" Firefly, I riveted all parts together and then 'painted' Araldite around the joints to be sealed.
Before the Araldite had cured, I heated the tanks with a hot air gun which turned the Araldite into a liquid which flowed like water into all joints, making the seal and enhancing the strength of the joints.
A different approach, but one which worked ok.
Unless I've misunderstood your method, it sounds as if you are going to draw 125 individual lines. Think that you would find it far, far quicker to draw just one line and then use 'radial copy' to 'draw' all 125 - using 125 as the number of sets which will include your initial line.
Both methods will work, but radial copy is far less laborious for larger numbers.
Firstly draw the circle that you wish to divide (including the centre point) and then identify a position on the circle itself with, say, a cross.
Click on that cross and then activate 'radial copy'.
Follow the instructions at the bottom LH corner of the screen - firstly, identify the centre of the circle and then the system will ask you to "define the angle step" - enter the number of divisions, 125 in your case, in the box "steps". Hit 'enter' and the job's done.
Hope this helps you.
|Thread: Welding Gas|
I paid an initial deposit of £55 on my Adams Gas 9L/137 bar oxygen cylinder, plus £36 for the gas. Lasts for ages unless doing a big boiler job, and with pre-heating from a propane torch it is still an economical option - about a third of the way silver soldering a 5" A4 boiler and used just one fill so far.
Just had an exchange from the local agent for £36. That's it - no handling charge, delivery charge or annual rental, and when I've finished with the cylinder they give me my £55 back.
Better than the huge sums of money that I was paying Air Products for annual rental of a half cylinder. Very happy with this option.
Various gases and mixes available - http://www.adamsgas.co.uk/hobby-gas-welding
|Thread: Supplier for minature E clips|
Worth looking on eBay - just searched for 'e clips' and 0.8mm listed by GWR Fasteners - various pack sizes and sizes - third item listed on my search. There are probably other suppliers listed.
|Thread: New turret mill|
Congratulations on your purchase of the 626 - sound like an ideal specification.
As for the 4" raising block - I certainly mentioned it in my reply to your original post. My experience with the VMC was that I needed a raising block - mainly due to the type of jobs that I undertake and the tooling that I use. Would advise that the best approach for you is to live with the machine for a while and then decide if there would be any benefit in adding a raising block.
As for supply, I doubt if Chester can supply - Warco certainly don't. I believe that I've seen a comment by John Stevenson that he makes them, so you may wish to make contact with him. Alternatively, you could always make your own - as it happens, I produced an article for MEW which has just started publication in MEW 215. If you look at the preview for this issue you will see a photo on the front cover.
Hope this helps.
|Thread: bricking up a garage door for workshop, ideas|
I have also converted my garage into use as a workshop - the original up-and-over door has been replaced by outward-opening half glazed French doors - taking Colin's point it makes access easier for heavy machines. As the French doors are less wide than the steel door that they replaced I have also fitted a wooden side panel (insulated). When doing the conversion I took the opportunity to specify a 'wheelchair' threshold for the doors - meaning that there is effectively no threshold to trip me up, and moving machinery is far easier. The other thing that I did was to fit a high security (anti-everything) lock to the door - recommend CISA Astral S. Expensive, but far superior to the cheap lock supplied with the doors.
I also removed and bricked-up the existing window - improved security and somewhere for more shelving.
Something else that you might want to consider while you have an empty garage is insulation - I have 18mm thick plywood on the floor, covered with hardboard and painted, plus 25mm insulation with 12mm plywood sheets on the walls. The ceiling is insulated with 50mm insulation above 6mm plywood - the roof space has also been ventilated. Result - no cold surfaces to sweat and no condensation. There is no background heating or dehumidifier in use. However, I am located in the south-east where the climate is probably somewhat warmer that Cumbria.
Hope this helps.
|Thread: New turret mill|
I've owned a Warco VMC for around 4 years now and I've been very pleased with it's performance so far. Why did I choose Warco? Probably because I have other Warco equipment which has been fine - but also that they offer a wide drip tray which is very useful. I would echo the above comment regarding R8 as it's far easier to use than Morse tapers and tooling is readily (and cheaply) available.
Something else that you may wish to consider is a 3 phase motor and inverter drive. This has transformed the machine with speed variation quick and easy, so much so that I have probably only changed the belts a couple of times since I've owned the machine. It also has jog and reverse functions which I use for tapping under power down to around M3. When I purchased my machine I wanted imperial / R8 / 3 phase which is not in the catalogue, but Warco offered to supply as a special order from the factory - it saved me the cost of buying a new motor. This took around 6 months, but was well worth the wait. Add in 3-axis DRO (brilliant) and it's a very handy machine.
On the downside the distance between the spindle nose and table could be greater as long drills and a tall workpiece can clash - this probably also applies to the 626 . I suffered this for around 3 years before deciding to make a 4" raising block - problem solved!
Hope this helps you.
|Thread: copper tube|
Hope this helps you.
|Thread: David Clark|
Thanks Diane - I've sent you a PM
Good morning All
I've been trying to contact David Clark (DC 1) for the last three weeks or so. Have sent him a couple of emails which have not been answered.
Is anyone else having the same problem? Does anyone know of any problems?
|Thread: A 'Starter Kit' for a Stent T&C?|
There are dressing sticks capable of dressing diamond and cbn wheels - this Company list medium and fine...
Hope this helps.
|Thread: Gilding Metak|
I bought mine from the 'old' Reeves, and I see that Reeves 2000 still list it, see **LINK**
|Thread: etch primer for brass|
Had a look at their website and it appears to be available in 1 litre tins. Thin with alcohol up to 5% - sounds interesting.
Data sheet available at **LINK** No mention of brass though, but as it's a 'bodyshop' product that may be why. Not too many brass cars about.
If you decide to go down that route I'd be interested to know how you get on.
Edited By Roger Vane on 14/09/2013 18:30:54
I've used Acid 8 in an aerosol - the primer adhered very well to bronze, in fact I didn't bother to mask certain areas and have had a lot of trouble removing it. As Jason says, the product is quite thick and can cover up detail.
Although the product worked well, I found that the aerosol was difficult to use - the button was very stiff, almost 'all or nothing' and I didn't feel that I had control of the paint. I didn't find it possible to apply a mist coat, but then maybe I use an airbrush rather than an aerosol and obviously you can't compare the two. If anything, the can is too large and that makes it even more difficult to control. All in all, a good product but shame about the can. It's also expensive if you plan to use a lot of it.
Hope this helps.
|Thread: Universal Grinding machine construction series?|
I've read the various recent posts regarding the future of MEW, the quality of articles submitted and into which magazine the 'Universal Grinder' should appear. It is now time to throw my hat into the ring and make a few observations.
Everyone seems to be knocking MEW and it's content, and maybe it's not perfect, but the magazine will only ever be what the readership dictates - it is they that supply the articles. As has been said many times before, DC can only publish what he receives. So, for those of you that are not happy with the content, why not have a go at writing some articles? Also, as MEW is basically a workshop biased magazine, it can never have the same wide range of potential subject matter as ME, so the range of articles is somewhat limited and repeats are more likely - however, even 'repeats' can offer a differing view of the subject matter.
For those of you that have submitted articles which have not been published, rather than moaning about it, why not ask "when, or if, they will see the light of day". After all, you will probably have spent many hours producing the article, so surely you have the right to know if it's acceptable or not, and the likely publication date. If it's not acceptable you always have the option to offer it elsewhere.
On the subject of articles, there has been much comment about the quality of articles published in MEW. I've had a couple of articles published, and have some more in the pipeline. Despite the criticism from some quarters, it is not an easy task - for example, at what level do you pitch the article? Do you want to attract the beginner or the more experienced worker? I would suggest ideally both, and so I try to pitch my articles for readers of average experience and ability, so that the beginner can advance their skills and hopefully the more experienced can also gain some ideas. That approach will, of course, be considered wrong by some people. As the old saying goes - you can't please all of the people all of the time.
Believe me, considering the hours spent producing articles, this is no cash cow as some people have suggested - there are drawings to be prepared, photographs to be taken and descriptions to be written up, as well as making the thing in the first place. For those of you who hold this view, my advice would be to try writing an article.
So, to those of you who knock MEW and it's content, rather than cancelling your subscriptions, how about determining it's future in a more positive way. Write some articles that suit your interests because the subject matter is obviously not being covered. Alternatively, why not ask DC to commission articles - after all he has access to both the readership and the authors.
Finally, to the subject of the 'Universal Grinder' - I say "please publish it". To me it makes no difference if it's published in ME or MEW, although I must admit it's good to see a limited amount of workshop articles back in ME.
Rant over - back to the workshop.
|Thread: Is it true that our access to the digital archive going to disappear?|
Some more questions, just to add to the general confusion ....
If I were to subscribe to the 'print + digital edition' I may well download / store / print these using my PC. If I then subsequently cancel my subscription (for whatever reason), will I still be able to access those editions that I've already downloaded? Is there any means by which the pocket mag reader checks that my subscription is still current, and ceases to function if it isn't?
The latest posts that I'm reading suggest that the digital archive will be added to and accessible just as at present - so why go down the new route, or am I missing the point?
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