Here is a list of all the postings Roger Vane has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Boxford VM30 or Warco VMC|
Your comment regarding reverse - I very often tap down to 6BA (M3) under power using forward and reverse 'jog' on the VFD. Holding the tap in a drill chuck saves fitting the tapping head, although care is needed with blind holes and small taps if you do this.
|Thread: warco vmc motor wire connections|
After pestering Roger Warren of Warco on a number of occasions - unsuccessfully - I decided to make my own 4" raising block for my VMC.
I described this in MEW issue 215 onwards. It can be machined (with care) on a Myford Super 7, although you will need a threaded 4-jaw chuck to manage this. As well as drawings, the article details the machining process used (with photos of the set-ups). It also emphasises the care required when machining such a large lump of cast iron.
The raising block has proved to be very successful in use, really changing the machine for the better, with lack of headroom never now being a problem. The only problem that I have experienced is that when raising the knee to the maximum as a test, the vertical leadscrew became disengaged, and it's not easy to re-engage - so beware.
Hope this helps.
|Thread: Website Wishlist|
"Not here - do you use compatibility mode in IE?"
I had the website set to compatibility mode in IE - have just removed it and select & copy works perfectly ok.
Many thanks for that, Roger
I have something further to add ...
When I try to highlight text or a web-address, I find that everything is highlighted except what I actually want - a kind of 'negative' highlighting, and of course I can't then copy it. (Windows 7 / 64 bit using IE 11).
This method works ok on all other websites that I use, so I can only assume that the facility is either blocked or there is a fault with the website. Does anyone else have the same problem?
|Thread: Unable to activate Turbocad Deluxe 20|
I bought my copy from Paul the CAD, but the activation code he gave me didn't work. When I phoned him he referred me to Avanquest who gave me a new code over the phone, Might be worth a try. Good luck.
|Thread: Old MIG Wire|
I had the same problem with gas supplies - rental was becoming very expensive from Air Products for my occasional usage.
If you're in the south-east you might like to try Adams Gas based in Margate - **LINK** or one of their local stockists. Welding gases at around £36 per fill (for 9 litres) and a £55 deposit (you get it back when you return the bottle). No annual rental charges or handling fees. Very good value for low or occasional usage.
If you're not in the south-east then I believe they have a network of stockists covering other parts of the country, and if not suitable then I'm sure that there are other suppliers around with a similar service.
|Thread: Rolling brass sheet|
Graeme W - interesting thought, but I can only comment on my own experience.
In his workshop manual book (p 213), GHT says "An interesting feature of the proposed gear drive is that any increase in the resistance to movement of the work through the rolls is accompanied by an automatic increase in the pressure between the driving rolls" I can only think that in my case I started off with too much pressure and that the resulting resistance further increased the pressure between the rolls and resulted in deformed edges.
You have probably avoided the problem by reducing the pressure from the top roll, whereas I've not increased the pressure by removing a gear - same result.
I have a set of geared rollers made to the GHT design, and have experienced the same effect as Mick has described. The solution here is to remove one of the gears, hence disabling the gear train and reducing the pressure.
|Thread: VFD and replacement motor recommendation|
Another vote for Newton Tesla. I've now upgraded 3 machines using their products and found them to be very helpful and supportive.
|Thread: Views on warco Major Mill|
I started off with a Warco MInor (read 'small Major' before upgrading to a VMC.
The VMC is a far superior machine, such that although I still have the Minor it has been relegated to the very occasional drilling duty. As others have said, the round column is a real pain when you have to adjust the height range. When comparing the two, the Major has a larger table, more traverse and a greater distance between spindle nose and table. Depends on how large a table / traverse you need. The downside of the VMC is the smaller spindle nose to table distance, but I overcame that problem by making a 100mm spacing block - machine transformed! It's certainly worth comparing the specs for the two machines.
Advantages of the VMC are the knee (far superior to the round column), the availability of R8 taper (much better that a Morse taper) and three phase versions. (I ordered mine from Warco with a 240v three phase motor as a special, and then fitted an inverter - infinitely variable speed control at the turn of a knob without the need to change belts all the time).
Hope this helps - good luck with your deliberations.
|Thread: Machining acrylic|
I've turned acrylic using an hss toolbit in my spherical turning attachment to make a lens for an optical centre finder. Found that material tended to 'pick-up' badly if it gets too hot, After some failures (experimentation?) I found that a fine feed, fairly low rpm and coolant gave a clean cut. I used WD40 as the coolant, and it seemed to work ok, with a much better finish than when machined dry - and no 'picking-up'.
This was followed by polishing with wet and dry of around 800 grit and then Solvol Autochrome metal polish. The metal polish transforms the finish and visibility through the lens.
|Thread: Warco VMC mill Y-axis travel|
I fitted a system from Machine-DRO to my Y-axis - brackets all made from 6mm thick aluminium angle. The scale is fitted directly onto the knee casting and the reading head is fitted to a bracket system attached to the saddle.
The stop 'finger' is fitted to the rearmost bracket and there is a new stop bar fitted directly onto the knee with its own brackets.
Have loaded some photos into an album.
|Thread: Changing belt drive to inverter control|
I have a VMC mill (1.5hp) with an inverter drive. The belts are set to 1180 rpm and this suffices for most jobs, including tapping under power using the jog and fwd / rev functions. I've probably only needed to change belt positions 4 or 5 times in the last 5 years or so, and that was driving a large shell mill. No cooling issues.
So impressed with the mill that I've also equipped my Myford S7 with an inverter package (1hp motor) - belts set more or less permanently to 1480 rpm with only the very occasional need to just change ranges. Never use back-gear. Again, taps and dies used under power (jog) and no cooling issues.
Costly, yes, but it moves the machines into a different class and is a great time saver (no laborious belt changing - a real pain), as well as giving you the ability to set the 'correct' speed for the operation in hand. If you go for it then I'm sure you won't regret it.
|Thread: Weight and transportability of a Myford lathe|
Mine came home on the back seat of a Triumph Herald - that dates both of us.
|Thread: VMC mill 3-phase conversion.|
When I bought my VMC I wanted a 3 phase / R8 / imperial machine which is not listed by Warco - they made a special order for me which took about 6 months or so to arrive, but well worth the wait. I then fitted an inverter and remote control station from Newton Tesla - a simple process using the wiring diagram supplied by NT.
If you decide to go this route then you will need to specify that the motor must be 240v - tell Warco that you will be fitting an inverter. This route saves you the cost of buying a 3 phase motor and also the job of swapping the motors over..
|Thread: boy designing workshop, help pls.|
building stand or bench if you intend to build large models, lots of shelving, space for wall charts, compressor, sheet metal rollers / folders (?).
|Thread: The New AMAT25LV|
Something that I forgot to mention was the DRO - only 3 axis at the moment, but well worth fitting. As far as the X-axis is concerned, then if you fit a slim scale to the front of the table then you will not lose any Y-axis travel (as you would if the scale is fitted to the back of the table). Losing the table stops? - no problem as you can fit an alternative arrangement in front of the scale (sounds like I'm plugging my articles, but this add-on is written up in MEW 196).
Mike - would appreciate a couple of pictures of your arrangement for the quill DRO if possible as I'm still considering how to fit one
I would go for the VMC every time. If the 'daylight; on the Z-axis is a problem then you can always make and fit a raising block. I made a 4" raising block on a Myford S7 (my articles in MEW 215 on) - needs care but can be done.
If buying new then I would also consider going for R8 and a 3 phase motor / inverter. The R8 is far more 'machine and user' friendly than 3 MT and tooling is readily available. As for the motor, this transforms the machine and avoids constant belt changing - speed variation at the turn of a knob, plus a 'jog' facility. I wanted to buy 3ph (240V), R8 and imperial spec which is non-standard. Warco ordered this for me as a special - delivery took a while but it was well worth the wait. Buying 3ph at the outset will avoid the cost of the motor if you decide to upgrade to VFD in the future.
If you do go this way then I doubt that you'll regret it.
|Thread: Warco VMC - Chester 626 Mill Dimensions Please extension|
That should be fine. I've just measured my ceiling / floor dimension as around 25mm more than yours and my drawbar comes out OK, but I have a 100mm raising block fitted, so you should have no problems.
If I remove the drawbar 'vertically' then I have 10mm or so to spare, but as the spindle bore is far greater than the drawbar diameter in practice you can tilt it as you remove it with lots of clearance. My guess is that you could also fit a 100mm raising block and still be able to remove the drawbar.
Hope that this all makes sense, and that you enjoy your new machine.
Good luck, Roger.
|Thread: Warco DH1 Milling vice.|
Yes - I've used one of these vices for around 4 years now. They're expensive compared to say, a standard K4 vice, but far more versatile. The max opening between the jaws is very impressive, although on most mills you would probably need to rotate on the base by 90 degrees (from the 'normal' position) to take full advantage. When I bought mine I was very uncertain about having the step at the top of the jaws, but it's surprising how often I use it. As for additional jaws, I have both the V-jaws and the high jaws - both sets are very useful.
As for accuracy, I have no complaints and certainly my example clocks very true. One thing that may have given the vice a bad reputation is that the 'fixed jaw' has quite a lot of clearance for it's M8 holding down bolts and I believe that this is intended. This gives you the ability to carefully nip the workpiece before finally bolting down and will grip very securely if slightly out of parallel. Overall, grip on the workpiece is very good as long as you remember this fact.
Dimensionally, they are slightly taller than the average K4 (around 10mm I believe) and this could add to any capacity issues you might have as I did with my VMC, since overcome by fitting a 4" raising block (I also had clearance problems when using the K4).
I would say that if you have the need for it's capacity and versatility then it's well worth the investment. I certainly wouldn't want to be without mine.
Hope that this helps.
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