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Member postings for Tony Jeffree

Here is a list of all the postings Tony Jeffree has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: John Stevenson
21/02/2021 12:44:39

I decided yesterday to fit a new chuck that had been sitting around for some while to a spare backplate, and reduced the backplate diameter and register to fit the recess in the back of the chuck. At this point, as this chuck is of the kind that has 3 blind threaded holes at the back for the mounting bolts, the question arose as to how to (quickly) mark out the backplate for the 3 holes. Marking out the first was easy enough, move a sharp lathe tool to 1/2 of the PCD, use it to lightly score a PCD circle on the backplate, centre pop and drill the first hole, easy peasy. But short of messing with a rotary table (still not sure which box to look in since the move!), what about the other 2? At this point, as has happened often over the years, I remembered a tip that came from one of my many phone conversations with John. Machine a sharp point on a short length of threaded rod (or a length cut from a spare matching bolt) and thread it into one of the threaded holes in the back of the chuck, leaving the point sticking out and enough thread to grab onto to remove it later. Offer up the backplate, sight through the first hole to one of the empty threaded holes in the chuck, give the backplate a light tap where it touches the pointy bit, rotate the backplate 1/3 of a turn to sight through to the other empty hole, another light tap. You now have a rather blunted pointy bit but enough of a mark on the backplate in the other 2 drilling positions so you can make decent pop marks and drill the last 2 holes.

24/10/2020 11:54:04
Posted by Bill Dawes on 24/10/2020 11:43:20:

Of course I wish John a speedy recovery, I do not know him but have seen his many posts, people like John are the backbone of this forum who help out us beginners.

Also all repect to Ketan, probable most people have heard of him and many people have met him as I have, shows what a caring person he is.

Get well soon John.

Bill D.

Unfortunately, it is 3 years too late for John to make a recovery, speedy or otherwise. sad

23/10/2020 15:15:52
Posted by Charles P on 23/10/2020 14:58:23:

Three years now mate.

Not forgotten and still an inspiration to many.


Yes - a great loss. My ML7 was his workhorse for many years, so it reminds me of him whenever I use it.

Thread: 3D CAD software - what do you use?
25/06/2020 10:45:31

I eventually went for Fusion 360 and am slowly getting to grips with the interface - not surprisingly, it needs a change of mindset from what I was familiar with (2D CAD in Autosketch), so it will take a while. Not fluent enough to do much in the way of drawing within Fusion, but I have discovered that if the model you are constructing breaks down into a small number of layers, a perfectly workable strategy is to draw each layer in 2D using Autosketch (been using it for ~20 years now so very quick to use) and export DXF; you can then use Fusion as what amounts to an "extrusion engine" - import the first layer DXF, extrude it to the right height, import the next DXF on the top face, extrude that...etc. Rather quicker than the nuclear option of getting fluent with enough of Fusion's complexity to do the same job directly in 3D! The latter can wait until the nights start to draw in again.

19/05/2020 11:43:25

Many thanks for the comprehensive and helpful responses - I will have to do some studying, not to mention downloading!

18/05/2020 14:47:57

Time to bite the bullet and learn how to draw stuff for printing. What (preferably free!) software do people use/recommend?

Thread: Printing clock wheels...?
23/04/2020 10:44:37
Posted by Bandersnatch on 22/04/2020 18:31:29:
Posted by Neil Wyatt on 22/04/2020 18:04:05:

Experiment, experiment, experiment.

I think I've spent 90% of my 3D printer activity on making experiments and 10% on making anything useful.


Sounds a bit like the metalworking equivalent - 90% of the time making jigs, fixtures and special tools, 10% making the part you wanted to make in the first place...

23/04/2020 10:42:21

Hi Danny

Thanks for the tip - I will give that a go.



09/04/2020 19:18:00
Posted by Bazyle on 09/04/2020 17:42:07:

Since you now have a 'spare' you might try running it in with a metal gear and see if it improves, or degrades, the tooth face. I printed a module 1 gear, photo in my album, which is fine as a changewheel but I think the requirements are more difficult for a clock.

Unfortunately, I don't have any 1 module cycloidal metal gears to run it in with, but yes, if I did, that would be worth a go.

09/04/2020 12:27:09

Hi Neil

I have Cura but haven't yet got to grips with it - obviously now is the time to start! Thanks for the tip...



09/04/2020 12:07:37

Anyone attempted this yet? I have a copy of Art Fenerty's Gearotic (**LINK**) that I have dusted off & updated to the latest version, and have tried printing a couple of test wheels at 1 Module using a fairly coarse setting (0.2mm layers) on my Ender 3. Successfully printed a 60T cycloidal wheel and a supposedly matching 12T pinion, but the tooth form leaves a lot to be desired. Just re-doing the large wheel using 0.1mm layers but it is taking a while - the teeth seem to be "spreading" a little, so the tooth spaces look on the small side. Anyone had any better success?

Thread: 3D printer recommendations
04/04/2020 18:57:10


04/04/2020 17:24:57

Try this:

04/04/2020 17:21:33
Posted by Bandersnatch on 04/04/2020 17:12:07:

BTW Tony, your dropbox links don't work for me either. It says the folder doesn't exist and then drops me back to my own dropbox folder.

Thanks - will take a look.

04/04/2020 11:50:11
Posted by Ronald Morrison on 04/04/2020 10:27:44:
Posted by Tony Jeffree on 03/04/2020 23:21:14:

I've printed 9 today, no raft, direct onto the Ender's heated glass bed. I'm finding that mostly they stay stuck, but release by themselves as the bed cools at the end of the job. Only one failure - one of the arms came unstuck and there was no option but to abort the print. The first one I printed onto a raft but it took twice the material and twice the time, and parting it from the raft wasn't clean or easy.

I've occasionally had trouble with a print coming loose from the bed too. I increased the extruder temperature by 5 degrees and the problem seems to be solved. With a glass bed the surface needs to be cleaned with an alcohol solution sometimes too. It's easy to touch it with your hand when you remove a print and transfer just a little skin oil.

Indeed...I put my one failure so far down to that - cleaned the bed down with Meths and it has been fine since. I am taking care not to touch the bed when removing parts now.

03/04/2020 23:21:14

I've printed 9 today, no raft, direct onto the Ender's heated glass bed. I'm finding that mostly they stay stuck, but release by themselves as the bed cools at the end of the job. Only one failure - one of the arms came unstuck and there was no option but to abort the print. The first one I printed onto a raft but it took twice the material and twice the time, and parting it from the raft wasn't clean or easy.

03/04/2020 22:44:24
Posted by Howard Lewis on 03/04/2020 16:48:34:


You are doing a great job, keep up the good work!

Politicians pontificate;

Engineers produce.



03/04/2020 17:46:28
Posted by JC54 on 03/04/2020 13:47:13:

Top marks Tony, is it possible to put a link to your faceshield file on the forum or have I missed it? I have looked at the one on another thread but my printer is not big enough to get it on. Many thanks Johnyes

Hi John

This version is suitable for a standard UK 4-hole punch:

This version is suitable for use with a standard 2-hole punch set to "A6" - punch twice from either end of the long edge.



03/04/2020 12:52:19
Posted by Howard Lewis on 03/04/2020 12:49:58:

If Tony's lamination pouches are distorting, why not put then through the laminator first of all to change them to transparent sheets? Then they can be punched, and hopefully will fit to the framework without so much nf a bulke.


It's OK Howard - it had been through the laminator. The problem was with the registration of the punching holes, nothing more. Problem fixed now because I have been donated some OHP transparencies that do the job very well.

03/04/2020 12:50:18
Posted by Neil Wyatt on 03/04/2020 12:44:51:

Can anyone else see what is wrong in Ron's picture...


Just fine if you want to print in Australia nerd

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