Here is a list of all the postings Versaboss has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: #209 - new look|
MEW 209 landed in my letterbox today. Those which also got it up to now will see it's got a 'new look'. I'm not too sure if it is better or worse, others will perhaps express their judgment better than I can. So who really needs 1 and a half page of contents?
But that's not my most important concern. What I really miss is the yellow issue number in the upper left corner of the front page. How can we pull out a certain issue from a large stack when the issue number is hidden somewhere on the right margin of the page? This change is a big no-no, my dear Designer!
(bold and cursive seems not to work today
|Thread: Useful lathe accessories|
Almost feared you are the guy nicknaming himself "vynuhl.addict" , over on DIYAudio forum. But you are not from Canada, are you?
Greetings, Hansrudolf (another v.a.)
|Thread: Whats my knob for? (Boley Beginner!)|
Maybe not every, but most lathes have something to lock the spindle. If you could do a good picture of the left side of the headstock, then maybe someone could help you. The left side is the traditional place to search what you seem to miss.
|Thread: New Look|
Well I was right. See e.g the third posting in "Best universal...milling machine". A blue and a black one in the same posting.
I really don't hope Katy has to change each and every link manually to blue??? In that case I rest my case...
Good pun, isn't it?
Sorry Katy, I could swear I saw a black one! So all is fine now, thanks a lot!
Now Katy if you could change back the links to blue, as promised, then you could at least one make happy (well, relatively only, maybe). On the right side column it works, so why not here?
Clickable links in BLACK!!! This is not serious - the whole rest of the world uses BLUE...
|Thread: Modern taps.......|
Tapping size for roll forming metric taps is easy: Just take the average between nominal size and the usual tapping hole diameter. Say for M6: nominal 6 mm, tapping size 5 mm, for a roll tap use 5.5 mm.
Don't know how it works out for other thread forms, but the manufacturere should know!!!
P.S. they work also very well in free cutting steel
Edited By Versaboss on 29/09/2013 13:04:08
|Thread: Help with this spline|
Just fyi, Stub: This is the axle for moving the quill of the FP1 up and down (like on a drill press).
The 'splines' mate with a rack cut into the quill,
How someone could bring that axle into such a desolate state goes over my head...
|Thread: Tungsten Disulphide (WS2 )|
Try it and report, Paul!
I am interested in this (for another purpose) and wanted to make an order. But I was very p...d off when I saw that they send it with Fedex. Value of good £ 11.21 (without VAT); Fedex Economy £ 34.04, Fedex Priority £ 27.37 (!!!) . Delivery time difference is 2 days...
|Thread: Harrier Grace or the 5"|
Harrier? isn't that a VTOL fighter? A bit early, methinks
Easiest way out: buy one of these:
|Thread: Using oil as coolant|
how do you get the oil out of the swarf? I suppose such a 20 L canister as shown in the link above does not last very long if it is not possible to regain most of what clings to the swarf.
|Thread: centering the chuck|
Hi Becky, many good advices have been said above. I especially can endorse the trick to lightly tap the jaws or the workpiece with a plastic hammer. I have a small handle-less type residing on the lathe for this.
For what I will write now, I'm sure I will be nailed to the wall by others...
|Thread: Lathe Accuracy Problems|
Chris, that's something I don't really understand. When your turned bar is not parallel, and then you mount a dti (in the place of the tool I suppose), then the point of the dti should move along the same line as the tool's point before. So you cannot see a movement of the pointer, imho.
Now some questions. Which model of Weiler lathe is it? Weiler lathes are from the highest quality, and it is only 30 years old you say?
I own a Leinen of at least over 40 years old. Just a couple of days ago I turned a similar bar as you did, but the turned part (90 mm) was about 50-60 mm away from the chuck. As an experiment I used no tailstock support. The dia. difference was about 0.02 mm maximal (rather less iirc). This lathe cannot be 'corrected' with shims, as it is screwed down to the heavy stand since leaving the factory. Without having a look (rather difficult to do) I think there are only 2 screws, centrally arranged.
I know that this doesn't help you much, but I believe that you should get a better result from a Weiler.
|Thread: Barrel Lap|
Thanks Graham (#2) for that link to moldshoptools. In umpteen years of buying tools I have never seen that such laps are commercially available.
As I just need some sizes, I made an order and they are already under way!
I made laps myself before, but at these prices - life is too short!
|Thread: How to stay in control of mill depth of cut? (My mill has no fine quill feed)|
ian, I see on your other photos that you added digital scales to a (this?) mill. So do it as I did on my Emco mill (I have the newer model, but think there is no difference in these parts:
- make an adaptor plate above the bracket which holds the z handwheel. It can be fastened with the same (or maybe a bit longer) 4 screws.
- make an adaptor plate and screw it to the side of the big square lump on which the head hangs.
- now mount a Chinese scale between these adaptor plates.
Just thinking about what I really did: the scale is free hanging (fixed on the top plate. only) The reading head is fixed on the lower adaptor. As usual the adaprors need some means to adjust the free running of the whole system, but in my case it works without troubles.
What wonders me a bit is that you have such a crude scale on Z. I did not work with my Emco since a long time (having other machines), but I can't remember that setting the vertical position is so coarse. I would not using the quill for setting depth; that's much too complicated to achieve any precision.
Edited By Versaboss on 11/03/2013 22:29:34
|Thread: Turning hard stuff|
Yes, even hardened steel can be turned.
These are commercial cylindrical dowels, 12 mm diameter. They are hardened trrough (not only case hardened).
Turning with Sumitomo cermet insert (with diamond honed edge).
600 RPM, d.o.c 0.25 mm, feed around 0.1 mm.
I wish every material I use would give that mirror-like surface!
|Thread: Adverts obliterate text|
Well Wolfie, maybe you would see even better solutions when you look at the HTML of e.g. this page.
After some preliminary stuff it starts with writing "My goodness, that was quick..." and ensd with "...resize images automatically <p> Ian"
After this (and you agree that HTML is processed/rendered top to bottom?) it starts writing the side columns, which then in some cases write over the text.
So it would (imho) be a very easy solution to change the sequence oof these parts, and write the forum text last. That would perhaps miff the advertisers, but as you can see the same in every thread the damage would be minimal.
If I'm wrong, please explain. I don't know much about HTML, I admit.
|Thread: Brass Durability|
If it looks like brass but is d@mn hard it could well be Aluminium Bronze. The colour is almost the same. I once gave up drilling a 3 mm hole in this stuff (yes I used a good drill...)
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