Here is a list of all the postings Versaboss has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: What did you do today? (2014)|
Well, last week a box landed on my doorsteps, containing 20 different threading inserts. They came from a tooling firm not too far away, and I am (or was, mostly) a very small customer there. So they wanted me to test these 20 inserts, on steel and stainless steel, and I should give my thoughts about their quality. Steep task, given that I never used threading inserts before. But.they wanted that all be done by the same person and with the same procedure for all.
First problem I saw: according to the catalog these chips need high speed, not the manual handle in the spindle end I usually use for threading. I had a length of 26 mm free cutting steel around, and for this the speed of 1200 rpm on my lathe would be perfect: But I can't stop from that in a microsecond! So first had to produce a mandrel (not a stub one!), on which the workpieces could be mounted far away from the chuck. Then preparing the workpieces, about 30 mm long, bored and reamed 12 mm. A small notch axially in the end for a positive drive - bad if they would turn on the mandrel. A pressure pad from the tailstock keeps all aligned.
You see also a finished example here. The threads are all 1.5 mm pitch, and accidentally my leadscrew is 3 mm. So I could open the clasp nuts and bring the saddle back manually. This way the mandrel could have been shorter, but I left it as it was...
That's how it looks installed and ready for work. F.c. steel done now; have to fetch the stainless tomorrow.
Ah - and I don't know what I should say about the quality of the threads. In my (very humble) opinion all work the same...
|Thread: Another Rollo Elf thread|
I seem to remember that somewhere in the past I 'saved' a S-A hub with the idea to use it for a 3-speed drive. After checking the gearing ratios I came to the conclusion that the differences are much too small to be useful. Has the Rollo lathe an additional way to change speeds?
Maybe someone can tell the gearing ratios of these hubs?
|Thread: Hand scraping|
in my humble attempts at scraping (2 mills, a shaper, a small lathe up to now) I always used that pulling method with a long scraper resting on the shoulder. I think I have ten times more control over the direction and length of the stroke and can use more pressure on the scraper if necessary. Although I have to say my scrapers seldom cut so nicely as demonstrated in that video!
What I don't have is a small beveled master for scraping vee ways; I'm glad having seen it can be produced with the means I have...
Regards, Hans R.
|Thread: Silver steel expanding on hardening|
Get a Cermet insert and turn it down, with high rpm and fine feed.
|Thread: mini Bandsaw, or mini Scroll Saw ??|
Michael, as a former Hegner owner I dare to say that in no way these arms are flimsier than the Hegner arms. It seems that this saw is almost a 1:1 copy of the Hegner, although the one I owned had no variable speed.
After building the band saw from one of the first MEW issues there was not much use for the Hegner, so I sold it. Cutting metal is a very slow process with a scroll saw.
|Thread: Motor for a Gingery shaper|
well if you have an issue with Ebay then that's your decision. But what intrigues me a bit is the remark about the Global Shipping Program. As far as I read the offer, this seller is shipping directly; I can't see a mentioning of G.P.S. The latter is a system where the seller sends his Item to a Ebay distribution center (in the U.S.) and they do (at a price I think) the final packaging and shipping. Ebay then also issues the final invoice to the buyer. Quite a complicated system; I hit on an article some days ago which I couldn't buy that way because Ebay didn't accept my address.
Greetings, and all the best in 2014
why not Ebay?
I was looking around a bit and under AC motors I found this as first entry:
You are lucky, they would send it to your country, but not to mine! Ebay
|Thread: machining ''Peek'' ...and ''Carbon fibre''|
Lancelot, thank you very very much for the advice above. I was at first not very sure if that works, but took the plunge and got a 12 mm diamond core drill (from ARC, satisfied customer etc etc.). Quite cheap they are also...
Yes it works a treat. I put the rings in a jig (top and bottom plate with the 6 holes), so the drill had a bit of guidance and I could cut from both sides. Result; a clean hole, not the slightest delamination or splintering. Happy!!!
I put this here just in case someone faces the same problem.
|Thread: So where am I going wrong|
Hmm, Graham, did you forget to let the lathe running backwards for the left hand thread???
I had a look into this program lately and feel a bit like you. This program seems to be very capable, but the interface is a nightmare... E.G. the drawing tools (line etc.) are not active when one starts with a 'part design'. Dunno what this is called in English; my version is mixed German and English...
Can you give the link for that Youtube tutorial? From the link on the start page I get nothing...
|Thread: Drill Sharpener|
A very good drill grinder is the Vertex (possibly available from other manufacturers also) But not exactly cheap, though,,,
A good video how to:
|Thread: New Lathe|
I'm glad to hear that your lathe now is turning parallel.
However, this remark above puzzles me very much. I suppose what you call 'vernier gauges' are the scale drums pn cross-slide and top-slide (and these rarely have vernier scales attached, but I don't know your lathe).
See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vernier_scale, also called Nonius.
But I don't understand what you did with these scales. Did you try to somehow measure the diameter after your turning exercises, by touching the bar with the tool? As I said' I'm puzzled, as I don't see what influence these scales can have on parallelism. If the scales are not precise (e,g, the tool moves more or less as what is shown), that's another problem then. But it would not influence the parallelism.
|Thread: Mating a drillchuck to an arbor|
Don't quite understand your problem, but maybe check that the chuck also has B16 taper (and not one of the Jacobs tapers).
|Thread: Which Aluminium grade ?|
Right, Michael. But the frosting on the cake would be a cross reference to more internationally used (in contrary to US practices) designations.
E.g. AlMgSi1, AlCuMgPb, AlZn5.5MgCu, AlMg4,5Mn0,7 ......
My Al provider shows the US designations (and some T numbers) only for sheet stuff.
|Thread: machining ''Peek'' ...and ''Carbon fibre''|
Ian, I don't think punching is possible. Firstly I have not the equipment, and secondly the holes go through Aluminium also.
That's what I want to make (now follows that terrible picture-inserting-horror):
Not ok; camera symbol did nothing. Again:
Strange, second try seems to be successful. oh yeah...
I hope you are still around...
I am very much interested what form of rotary rasp cutter you used for carbon fibre. I have to do a couple of hundred holes of 12 mm diameter, in 2 mm CF. The holes should be as clean as possible, with no splintering or delaminating. I used before a 12 mm carbide endmill, but had to feed down extremely slooow...
Maybe your usage was for side cutting only with these rasps?
|Thread: I need to buy a Slitting Saw|
Clive said all and more what I also would have said (maybe using less words ) But one thing I want to add nonetheless.
The 'nut type' can be used in a horizontal mill (or with tailstock support in the lathe), because they (should) have a center on the free end. The 'screw type' surely will miss this center!
|Thread: #209 - new look|
MEW 209 landed in my letterbox today. Those which also got it up to now will see it's got a 'new look'. I'm not too sure if it is better or worse, others will perhaps express their judgment better than I can. So who really needs 1 and a half page of contents?
But that's not my most important concern. What I really miss is the yellow issue number in the upper left corner of the front page. How can we pull out a certain issue from a large stack when the issue number is hidden somewhere on the right margin of the page? This change is a big no-no, my dear Designer!
(bold and cursive seems not to work today
|Thread: Useful lathe accessories|
Almost feared you are the guy nicknaming himself "vynuhl.addict" , over on DIYAudio forum. But you are not from Canada, are you?
Greetings, Hansrudolf (another v.a.)
|Thread: Whats my knob for? (Boley Beginner!)|
Maybe not every, but most lathes have something to lock the spindle. If you could do a good picture of the left side of the headstock, then maybe someone could help you. The left side is the traditional place to search what you seem to miss.
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