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Member postings for Versaboss

Here is a list of all the postings Versaboss has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: LEDs ... The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly
26/09/2014 13:49:12

Not that it seems I'm not interested in that LED discussion. In fact I am, as a couple of these outdoor floodlights are under way to me. I hope they are bang good! Link seems to work very slowly, so have patience!

So may I propose that these LED discussions ace collected into a dedicated new thread? Nobody will find them again in this one...

Kind regards, HansR.


Edited By Neil Wyatt on 26/09/2014 17:40:25

Thread: What did you do today? (2014)
25/09/2014 22:57:50

Changing the theme a bit... to what I did today.

made my first steps into anodizing. I'm happy to tell that it went quite well cool :

img_20140925_223645 (small).jpg

It might interest someone that I didn't use the usual 20 % sulphuric acid. Instead I prepared a mix of 2 liters distilled H2O, about 400 grams of PhMinus salt and 100 grams of liquid PhMinus. These two products are used for treating swimming pool water and are easily obtainable. I think the liquid is sulphuric acid, but only about 10%, and the cristalline is Sodium-Hydrogene-sulphate. I added the liquid form only because first I had no current flowing; later iI found out the culprit was the Alu wire I used for suspending the sample. I changed the wire to a Titanium wire and set for around 200 mA for this small item (with a lab power supply). I found a value of 10 mA per cm2 in the online literature, seems that's a good number!

The colour - is magenta ink for a inkjet printer! First thinned down, then I put a bit of the concentrated stuff on with a small paintbrush. Btw the dark spot near the hole is just a picture artefact

A couple of these famous (for anodizing) Dylon textile colours are already under way for the next trials!

Kind regards,



Edited By Versaboss on 25/09/2014 22:59:21

Thread: Drilling stainless steel
23/09/2014 11:47:49
Posted by Doubletop on 22/09/2014 11:39:19:

Apart from doing a great job but a bit messy with it (easily cleaned up) I was told that if you drive RTD hard to the point it smokes it gives off a sulphur fumes which can cause rusting of equipment. So really a case of clean up well after the job is done.

Yes that's true, but 'rusting' is maybe a too strong word. The effect is more like that of the well-known blackening solutions, although the colour is more dark brown than black.

You can see this effect on a Morse taper holder for my Fehlmann Mill-drill, the exposed front part has got an even colour all around.

fehlmann (small).jpg

kind regards, HansR.

23/09/2014 11:47:48
Posted by Doubletop on 22/09/2014 11:39:19:

Apart from doing a great job but a bit messy with it (easily cleaned up) I was told that if you drive RTD hard to the point it smokes it gives off a sulphur fumes which can cause rusting of equipment. So really a case of clean up well after the job is done.

Yes that's true, but 'rusting' is maybe a too strong word. The effect is more like that of the well-known blackening solutions, although the colour is more dark brown than black.

You can see this effect on a Morse taper holder for my Fehlmann Mill-drill, the exposed front part has got an even colour all around.

fehlmann (small).jpg

kind regards, HansR.

Thread: Not a "modeller"!
26/08/2014 10:20:55
Posted by alan frost on 25/08/2014 21:38:54:

Got an idea. If someone could write an article for MEW on making model axes then someone else could write a little article on grinding them.

Too late, Alan. Has been done more than once, really... An example here:

Axe from hammer

Regards, HansR.

Thread: What did you do today? (2014)
16/08/2014 23:58:12

Having seen an advertisement for a "Wimberley toolholder", I thought that I should try something similar. This toolholder is almost like a tangential tool turned 90 deg. anticlockwise. I admit the first version I did came out wrong, mostly because the point of the tool came out much too high when used in a quick-change holder.

So that's what my effort #2 looks like:

dscf0695 (small).jpg

dscf0697 (small).jpg

And does it work? Very well I think, although I have to experiment a bit more with the tool angles. Maybe I even will do a #3, but for smaller tooling. The 10 mm square is a bit overkill (and needs a lot of grinding...). I did a few cuts in steel, alu and brass, over 1 mm DOC is easily possible (but 0.01 mm also).

Regards, HansR.

Thread: What drill bit for drilling 1 inch long 5mm hole through 10mm grub screw?
09/08/2014 11:18:22
Posted by Andrew Johnston on 08/08/2014 15:01:46:

I drilled and tapped a scrap piece of 6082 aluminium alloy with 3.4, 3.5 and 3.6mm drills, and then hand tapped the holes. I started off with a high tensile (12.9) SHCS in the hole drilled 3.6mm. The bolt broke before the thread stripped.

Any questions? wink 2



Yes. If you would check this M4 thread in the 3.6 mm hole with a go/no-go thread gauge, would it still pass that test?

Remembering from a dim past that I had quite often rejected jobs when the internal threads showed too much truncation. Some customers can be very sensitive...

Regards, HansR.

07/08/2014 23:35:30

Hi Jan,

I had a bit mixed feelings about what you described here, to be honest I can't imagine how the part you made looks in the end.

But one thing (well rather two) things I can tell you: You can't find M7, M9 and M11 screws/bolts because these are not used as fasteners! They are 'non-preferred' diameters, but that doesn't mean that taps and dies don't exist! There are even more such non-existing fasteners (every odd dia. from 11 upward); it would be crazy having screws every mm.

The other thing: keep off thinking that carbide drills would solve your problems! I bet that such a drill in your machine (whatever it is) would not last more than 30 seconds. It IS possible to drill all usual (for a mod,eng.)materials with HSS drills. Just today I did quite a lot of holes in 5 mm stainless, all with HSS.

Regards, HansR.

Thread: What pulleys to use for a milling machine and VFD.
06/08/2014 22:34:20

For motorizing the Aciera high speed head I would use one of the brushless DC motors, which are sold by Sieg. They include the control box also. I don't know the prices, but regarding the prices of the machines which use them they cannot be very high.

Regards, HansR.

Thread: Cupronickel as boiler material!
28/07/2014 23:03:07

There is a chap in Finland who builds all his locos from that stuff. Seems he can get it from a shipbuilding place,

Naturally this can only be done in countries where the profession of 'boiler inspector' is unknown laugh

See his videos here

Regards, HansR.

Thread: turning tungsten
18/07/2014 21:55:57
Posted by Roderick Jenkins on 12/07/2014 21:28:13:

You're very welcome. If anybody has a source of heavy metal bar in small quantities I'd be glad to know of it. It's very good for balancing model i.c. engine crankshafts. 1/4", 6mm, 3/8" or 8mm would all be useful.


that's not too difficult. Over the big water they indulge in a strange sport called Pinewood Derby racing. This has developed into a hi-tech affair, and so they use Tungsten rods and balls to put as much weight as allowed into these cars. Search for Pinewood, and you will see it all.

I also bought some small off cuts of Tungsten in 4-6 mm dia. (iirc) on this famous 4-letter auction site.

I did not any turning tests with these, but if someone asks...

Regards, HansR.

Thread: Which drill chuck to use for a Sieg C2 lathe ?
20/06/2014 11:47:03

Isn't a 16 mm chuck a bit too large for a C2? My largest chuck, for a much bigger lathe, is 12 mm.

Regards, HansR.

Thread: WD40 alternative - any good?
13/06/2014 20:28:13
Posted by Neil Wyatt on 13/06/2014 19:58:53:

... But he impressed on me at an early age "WD40 is not a lubricant". ,,,,,


How true. I advise anybody who thinks that WD40 contains any kind of oil, take a sheet of white paper off your printer and put a splash of WD40 on it. It will get translucent, at least a bit. Now leave it for a day or two, and see what happens. You will not see the lightest remains, the paper is just as good and white as it was before. Repeat this with your preferred light oil and see the difference...

Before I forget: I use WD40 too, as a cleaner. For machining Aluminium I prefer the bespoke products of the trade.

Greetings, Hansrudolf

Thread: Multifix Retracting Toolholder.
06/06/2014 20:01:24

Just use the correct name:

Brütsch-Rüegger: **LINK**

But Ifanger is also on the web:


Regards, Hansrudolf

Thread: white metal castings
18/05/2014 21:29:27

Speaking of White Metal - I made several efforts to obtain a small lump of bearing grade White Metal. Unfortunately all without success. maybe someone has a bit seasoning under the bench?

Also, would it be far away from the 'real' stuff to melt down a pewter mug or cup? Or getting the raw materials (Antimony, Bismuth) from Ebay is another possibility. Then one needs to get a composition...

Regards, HansR.

Thread: Perfectly ground Twist Drills every time.
09/05/2014 22:11:19

One more for the list of angles:

pin angle: 10-11° (protractor)

square bar (=vee) to vertical: 61.3° (digital gauge)

That would result in the angle vee -> pin of around 50° if my arithmetic is correct.

Clive, on my 170 mm grinder the drill touches between 1 and 2 o'clock! It would need a substantial block below the grinder to get near the center line (or the jig had to be mounted lower than the grinder).

Regards, HansR.

Thread: What did you do today? (2014)
09/05/2014 21:51:56

Machined some parts for the locking mechanism for the new points (switches) we build in the club. Stainless steel, 3 mm. Then discovered that I drilled a 4 mm hole in the wrong position angry crying. 10 pieces!

Thinking about welding them up (stainless rod) and redo, right this time. What do you think, any chance?

Regards, HansR.

Thread: Perfectly ground Twist Drills every time.
05/05/2014 22:31:52

Many thanks Graham, now all is clear!

Well, maybe not - could it be that different species of these jigs exist? As I have other (better) means for drill grinding up to 13 mm, I don't use it often. Also the positioning lip was ground away long time ago, so setting up is more or less a matter of luck.

However, I tried it again today with a 15 mm drill. Without a wedge under the foot, and with the jig on the 59 deg. mark, I measured a tip angle of 120 deg, +/- 2 deg maybe. Due to the eyeball setup the drill cut about 0.2 mm oversize (directly into Alu and steel, without using a center drill...)

It seems what I really need is Mr. Hall's 180 deg. switchover gadget. Also a longer guide rod and something which prevents the different nuts from moving due to the vibrations.

Now I think I have stressed your patience enough,

Greetings, HansR.

05/05/2014 19:40:11
Posted by Graham Meek on 05/05/2014 13:09:28:


The reason for the wedge is,


I'm so sorry Graham, it seems I could not express clearly what I meant. I said I have no problems with the wedge - meaning I understand its purpose.

What I really don't understand is the other part, which looks like a very substantial bearing for the small vertical stem of the jig. Maybe, instead of a drawing, you could try to tell in a few words how to make it? (length, thickness, the purpose of the tangential clamp(?) screw - which part is still movable when this really iy a clamp?). In the description you wrote something about 'dialling in the eccentricity...) Is there a scale somewhere?

Oh, how difficult to express ones thoughts when one has nothing than a photo...

Greetings, HansR.

05/05/2014 10:43:45

To bring this thread back to on-topic:

Graham, would it be possible for you to produce and present a drawing of that new part on the foot of the jig (visible in pictures 2 and 4 on the first page)?

Although I have no problems with the wedge, I'm completely lost with this. Obviously I'm the only one - but that's no big news for me. laugh

I think it would be easier than waiting for the day when something shows up in MEW (Or the other one, unmentionable here...?)

Greetings, HansR.

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