Here is a list of all the postings Versaboss has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Parting Off MEW225|
If you need a short intermission after all these academic disputes, then take a look at this interesting video:
|Thread: "New" Old Stock Kasenit; Does it expire?|
What can happen after some years is that the tin can totally rusts away. My stock (bought 19-umpteen) is now in a plastic can., and works like on day one.
|Thread: Help with South Bend lathe please...|
Sorry to appear a bit pedantic here, but the double gear on Paul L.'s picture (left) is not an idler gear!
An idler gear does nothing to the ratio between two shafts, it is just idling. But this gear pair does reduce the speed from the spindle to the leadscrew. I was wondering about that when I first saw the pile of change gears in one of the first pictures. What I suppose (I admit I know nothing about South Bend lathes) is that there is something missing on that empty stud. The 'something' should enable to mount two gears in such a manner that they can rotate freely on that stud, but be coupled together firmly. That's how it is done on my Leinen lathe, with the aid of a key in that case.
|Thread: HSS Inserts|
Not to forget the Alesa tools, available in HSS, carbide or ceramic.
|Thread: Mist coolant|
Well I think there are two different lubrication systems discussed here. So I hope I can bring a bit more clarification into that matter and tell about my experience - not all good as you will see.
Many years ago I saw a minimal quantity lubrication system at a machine tool exhibition. This was (is) NOT a 'mist system' - just to make that clear. This system came from a manufacturer called Vogel; to my surprise when I looked it up today it goes now under the name of SKF (yes the ball bearing firm). So I bought such a system and had soon to discover the drawbacks.
Maybe best to show the link to that system as sold by SKF:
As you see this is a fully pneumatic system. The oil is metered by a small pneumatic pump, and the air blow can be regulated separately. But, and that was the drawback, it needs a constant pressure of 5-6 bar in the air line, and the air stream empties my 50 l tank in a couple of minutes below that level. I know my compressor is not very large and is unable to keep the pressure high enough. What I want to say is that this system needs air in copious quantity - you could never use it with a Junair. Bambi or fridge compressor.
The other problem is that it does not start immediately (as mentioned above for another system also). In practice I have to start it 15-20 min before I want to use it, and have also to set oil volume and air to the max ant then - when it finally starts to work - regulate it back again. A big nuisance to say the least..
The reason why I wanted such a system was, that I heard good reports about a U.S. product named Micro-Drop (iirc). This uses a pressurized oil reservoir, which imho is much easier to work with. This is (was) available here also, but again 50% more expensive than the Vogel/SKF system.
So if you have a big, powerful compressor then go for it, otherwise I would say no.
Just to finish that narration, somewhere in the distant back in the American 'Home Shop Machinist' there was a construction article about a lubrication system in which the oil was sputtered out by the action of a magnetically moved iron core (solenoid) hitting the back end of an oil filled tube. This just from a not too good memory. so the details are a bit vague...
|Thread: A better lathe ....|
The dream of my sleepless nights:
Hommel UWG with a complete set of accessories.
|Thread: Finding an alternative supplier|
That's how the genuine Clifford Northfield diamond plates look like:
But I'm sure the above mentioned Eze-lap products would be just as good..
These originals had been quite expensive afaik...
Btw. as I now have other means to sharpen small (and larger) drills I would be prepared to separate me from them (together with the Brown jigs). PM me if interested... Still a lot of life in them I think.
|Thread: Good Quality Small Lathe|
Good quality small lathe?
Afaik this one is still made (and available, if you are not in a hurry):
|Thread: Which wire to use|
I read it as 4.25 Volts max. , but it would be ok for a spot welder I suppose...
Kind regards, HansR.
|Thread: Designspark 2.0|
Second try with the version Adi mentioned above went a bit farther in the installation, but then died and let the blue bar running backward... Seems my PC still misses something important for the installation.
I would have liked to check out this program, but it seems I have to stay with what I have (Alibre and Solvespace, for 3D)
could you explain with some more words? I found and got and installed that Net 4.0, but when trying to install Designspark it Insisted it needs version 4.5
The error message was:
Prerequisite check for system component Microsoft .NET Framework 4.5 (x86 and x64) failed with the following error message:
So how exactly did you overcome that obstacle?
|Thread: How do you view the Emco FB2 milling head|
If I read you correctly you think of mounting an Emco milling head to a Myford lathe? If so, how? and where do you get a separate head? After these questions, now to my experience. Back in the seventies I used an Emco head, but mounted on an Emco lathe which had the necessary clamp for the column. Such a combination is, as I found out, really unsuitable except for the lightest of milling jobs. Many people don't realize that a milling cutter generates an upward force on the workpiece, and a lathe saddle is not constructed to resist this force. This also leads to vibrations and chatter on the workpiece. So after quite a short time I mounted the head to a heavy milling table and later sold the lathe. I still have this mill but don't use it now, having some better machines. Really even think about selling it...
Thinking about that above - could be that the Myford's flat bed is better in resisting these upward forces, but I stay to my opinion that a milling attachment on a lathe is an unsatisfactory makeshift. Not least also the constant changes between turning and milling.
Kind regards, HansR.
|Thread: Setting up the lathe accurately|
Sorry Mr. Frost, but your answer made me shaking my head in disbelief. Possibly you think that the OP's numbers are in millimeters? I admit I don't know the Schlesinger limits for a lathe, but I'm quite sure that a diameter difference of nearly 0.05 mm over a distance of around 150 mm is not good. (sorry again for using these newfangled units, but that's what I need to make me a mental picture)
So it happened just a couple of days ago that I also wanted to know if my lathe (not far from 50 years old) is still usable or crap. I now have the test piece in front of me, I noted the numbers on it. A piece of free cutting steel, originally around 21 mm in diameter. HSS tool (yes in one of my new Wimberley holders), fine feed and a small depth of cut). My turning length was around 100 mm, or 4" if you prefer. What I got - measured with my best metric micrometer which has a vernier to 3 digits - is as follows:
- on the free end: 20.661 mm
- in the middle: 20.665 mm
- on the chuck end: 20.665 mm
What would Mr. Schlesinger say to that?
I'm very glad I didn't have to tamper with the mounting of the bed on the cabinet, this would be very difficult for this lathe (I even had to search for the screws...)
|Thread: Wimberley lathe tool holder|
As it was possibly me who provoked this thread, I'm obliged to show a bit more...
I tried my luck with the famous tangential toolholder also, but had some difficulty with the clamping - the screw or a part of the holder always coming in conflict with the work. So I started making a Wimberley clone. The first one was mostly scrap, then they became (slowly) better... I admit that the HSS bit is not as easy to grind as for the t.t.h., but mainly because I upscaled up to 10 x 10 bits. The original W.t.h. uses a tiny (3/16" I think) bit, a size I don't even think of using!
The easiest way to make one is starting with a bit of steel, about 25 mm square and 35 mm long. Mill one side off at an angle of 20 degrees, then mill the tool slot diagonally on this side, also at 20 degrees. A vise with a rotating base helps a lot for that - or set the vise oblique on your mill table. Next is drilling a hole, in my case 10 mm, in the upper left corner of the steel block, and stop when the drill reaches the tool slot. Don't forget the holes fot the clamp screws - either just vertically or inclined so they are perpendicular to the tool slot. Finally silver solder the stem into the 10 mm bore. You can use a square one turned down to 10 mm, or say a round 12 mm, which you mill flats on after soldering.
A word again to the tool bits: I found the best method for grinding the steep primary angle is using a thick spacer on the horizontal grinder table (which usually is around axle height). The height should be so that the grinding point is between 1 and 2 o'clock on the wheel, This should result in an angle of about 28 degrees (20 for the holder, 8 for the relief).
So now some pictures:
The first two usable holders, for 10 and 6 mm bits.
The smaller, front view
A larger clone for mounting directly in a Tripan holder, with 10 mm bit
here seen from the tool bit side.
Well, enough for the moment!
Kind regards, HansR.
|Thread: 25 Years of Great Ideas - What's Your Favourite?|
My vote goes to the bandsaw which was in one of the first issues. But please with better blade guides (ball bearings)... I drive mine with a cardan shaft from the lathe.
Re the ubiquitous tangential tool holder: Don't beat a dead duck: a Wimberley holder is the real McCoy!
|Thread: Loctite wheel to shaft|
OK, addition to my poat above: I found it! The trick was to search for tha author's name.
It is in part 6, Coatings
He shows 3 methods best is sandblasting, second the heating (bluing he says, so a bit hotter than what I wrote), and the third cleaning with some abrasive kitchen cleaner.
Have a look at these vids, this man knows a lot and even I am able to understand his English very well (something that's not always the case, unfortunately...)
Neil, that's an interesting question. I think I have seen the solution in one of Dan Gelbart's Youtube videos. There should be 18 parts, but on the selection on the right I don't see all. Someone knows how to find all vids of a certain contributor? (end of OT interrupt). So I can't locate it at the moment.
Well what stayed in my memory is the following: whatever solvent you use, after it has dried off you still have a one atom (molecule) thick layer of organic matter on your material.This can be proofed by trying to net it; the water will build 'balls' and flow off. The only way to get rid of that is to treat the parts with a flame from your trusty propane burner. Maybe to around 150-200 deg.C, I'm not sure about that, but after this treatment the water will adhere to the surface and wet it. A surface like this will also be netted by your epoxy/acrylate or whatever adhesive you use!
If someone is able to find this video I would very much like to hear about it again.
Part one is here: Gelbart
|Thread: Gear Cutting Advice|
Hi Andy, my Leinen has roller bearings. I often think they would need just a little bit of adjustment, but I'm not able to understand how to do that. Also the two-speed clutch is shot and works only on the high speed side. Ah well, the oil in the headstock and especially the apron has the habit of disappearing very fast...
But nonetheless this lathe can still do precision work.
Not in UK, Switzerland it is...
Ah, finally a Leinen owner here! (although it's a LZ4S...). So we are two, almost a crowd then.
My example was missing the (quite important) 90 teeth wheel, so I went the easy route and bought two standard gears, bolted and loctited them together and turned down to the thickness of the others - 15 mm you say. I'm sure one of the thinner wheels with a hub would be sufficient also.
Btw I use small polyurethane vee belts and a set of pulleys for the feeds - much more silent than the gears!
Bit OT, I know
|Thread: How do i drill small holes - just ruined my Elmers Tiny Column :(|
Instead of a standard spot drill you can treat yourself to a carbide centre tool from Eternal tools:
Not cheap I admit, but would solve your problems methinks. Satisfied customer etc., you know...
It would relieve you from learning to 'catch a centre' with a graver, an art in itself!
Kind regards, HansR.
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