Here is a list of all the postings Versaboss has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: turning tungsten|
that's not too difficult. Over the big water they indulge in a strange sport called Pinewood Derby racing. This has developed into a hi-tech affair, and so they use Tungsten rods and balls to put as much weight as allowed into these cars. Search for Pinewood, and you will see it all.
I also bought some small off cuts of Tungsten in 4-6 mm dia. (iirc) on this famous 4-letter auction site.
I did not any turning tests with these, but if someone asks...
|Thread: Which drill chuck to use for a Sieg C2 lathe ?|
Isn't a 16 mm chuck a bit too large for a C2? My largest chuck, for a much bigger lathe, is 12 mm.
|Thread: WD40 alternative - any good?|
How true. I advise anybody who thinks that WD40 contains any kind of oil, take a sheet of white paper off your printer and put a splash of WD40 on it. It will get translucent, at least a bit. Now leave it for a day or two, and see what happens. You will not see the lightest remains, the paper is just as good and white as it was before. Repeat this with your preferred light oil and see the difference...
Before I forget: I use WD40 too, as a cleaner. For machining Aluminium I prefer the bespoke products of the trade.
|Thread: Multifix Retracting Toolholder.|
Just use the correct name:
But Ifanger is also on the web:
|Thread: white metal castings|
Speaking of White Metal - I made several efforts to obtain a small lump of bearing grade White Metal. Unfortunately all without success. maybe someone has a bit seasoning under the bench?
Also, would it be far away from the 'real' stuff to melt down a pewter mug or cup? Or getting the raw materials (Antimony, Bismuth) from Ebay is another possibility. Then one needs to get a composition...
|Thread: Perfectly ground Twist Drills every time.|
One more for the list of angles:
pin angle: 10-11° (protractor)
square bar (=vee) to vertical: 61.3° (digital gauge)
That would result in the angle vee -> pin of around 50° if my arithmetic is correct.
Clive, on my 170 mm grinder the drill touches between 1 and 2 o'clock! It would need a substantial block below the grinder to get near the center line (or the jig had to be mounted lower than the grinder).
|Thread: What did you do today? (2014)|
Machined some parts for the locking mechanism for the new points (switches) we build in the club. Stainless steel, 3 mm. Then discovered that I drilled a 4 mm hole in the wrong position . 10 pieces!
Thinking about welding them up (stainless rod) and redo, right this time. What do you think, any chance?
|Thread: Perfectly ground Twist Drills every time.|
Many thanks Graham, now all is clear!
Well, maybe not - could it be that different species of these jigs exist? As I have other (better) means for drill grinding up to 13 mm, I don't use it often. Also the positioning lip was ground away long time ago, so setting up is more or less a matter of luck.
However, I tried it again today with a 15 mm drill. Without a wedge under the foot, and with the jig on the 59 deg. mark, I measured a tip angle of 120 deg, +/- 2 deg maybe. Due to the eyeball setup the drill cut about 0.2 mm oversize (directly into Alu and steel, without using a center drill...)
It seems what I really need is Mr. Hall's 180 deg. switchover gadget. Also a longer guide rod and something which prevents the different nuts from moving due to the vibrations.
Now I think I have stressed your patience enough,
I'm so sorry Graham, it seems I could not express clearly what I meant. I said I have no problems with the wedge - meaning I understand its purpose.
What I really don't understand is the other part, which looks like a very substantial bearing for the small vertical stem of the jig. Maybe, instead of a drawing, you could try to tell in a few words how to make it? (length, thickness, the purpose of the tangential clamp(?) screw - which part is still movable when this really iy a clamp?). In the description you wrote something about 'dialling in the eccentricity...) Is there a scale somewhere?
Oh, how difficult to express ones thoughts when one has nothing than a photo...
To bring this thread back to on-topic:
Graham, would it be possible for you to produce and present a drawing of that new part on the foot of the jig (visible in pictures 2 and 4 on the first page)?
Although I have no problems with the wedge, I'm completely lost with this. Obviously I'm the only one - but that's no big news for me.
I think it would be easier than waiting for the day when something shows up in MEW (Or the other one, unmentionable here...?)
|Thread: What did you do today? (2014)|
Well, last week a box landed on my doorsteps, containing 20 different threading inserts. They came from a tooling firm not too far away, and I am (or was, mostly) a very small customer there. So they wanted me to test these 20 inserts, on steel and stainless steel, and I should give my thoughts about their quality. Steep task, given that I never used threading inserts before. But.they wanted that all be done by the same person and with the same procedure for all.
First problem I saw: according to the catalog these chips need high speed, not the manual handle in the spindle end I usually use for threading. I had a length of 26 mm free cutting steel around, and for this the speed of 1200 rpm on my lathe would be perfect: But I can't stop from that in a microsecond! So first had to produce a mandrel (not a stub one!), on which the workpieces could be mounted far away from the chuck. Then preparing the workpieces, about 30 mm long, bored and reamed 12 mm. A small notch axially in the end for a positive drive - bad if they would turn on the mandrel. A pressure pad from the tailstock keeps all aligned.
You see also a finished example here. The threads are all 1.5 mm pitch, and accidentally my leadscrew is 3 mm. So I could open the clasp nuts and bring the saddle back manually. This way the mandrel could have been shorter, but I left it as it was...
That's how it looks installed and ready for work. F.c. steel done now; have to fetch the stainless tomorrow.
Ah - and I don't know what I should say about the quality of the threads. In my (very humble) opinion all work the same...
|Thread: Another Rollo Elf thread|
I seem to remember that somewhere in the past I 'saved' a S-A hub with the idea to use it for a 3-speed drive. After checking the gearing ratios I came to the conclusion that the differences are much too small to be useful. Has the Rollo lathe an additional way to change speeds?
Maybe someone can tell the gearing ratios of these hubs?
|Thread: Hand scraping|
in my humble attempts at scraping (2 mills, a shaper, a small lathe up to now) I always used that pulling method with a long scraper resting on the shoulder. I think I have ten times more control over the direction and length of the stroke and can use more pressure on the scraper if necessary. Although I have to say my scrapers seldom cut so nicely as demonstrated in that video!
What I don't have is a small beveled master for scraping vee ways; I'm glad having seen it can be produced with the means I have...
Regards, Hans R.
|Thread: Silver steel expanding on hardening|
Get a Cermet insert and turn it down, with high rpm and fine feed.
|Thread: mini Bandsaw, or mini Scroll Saw ??|
Michael, as a former Hegner owner I dare to say that in no way these arms are flimsier than the Hegner arms. It seems that this saw is almost a 1:1 copy of the Hegner, although the one I owned had no variable speed.
After building the band saw from one of the first MEW issues there was not much use for the Hegner, so I sold it. Cutting metal is a very slow process with a scroll saw.
|Thread: Motor for a Gingery shaper|
well if you have an issue with Ebay then that's your decision. But what intrigues me a bit is the remark about the Global Shipping Program. As far as I read the offer, this seller is shipping directly; I can't see a mentioning of G.P.S. The latter is a system where the seller sends his Item to a Ebay distribution center (in the U.S.) and they do (at a price I think) the final packaging and shipping. Ebay then also issues the final invoice to the buyer. Quite a complicated system; I hit on an article some days ago which I couldn't buy that way because Ebay didn't accept my address.
Greetings, and all the best in 2014
why not Ebay?
I was looking around a bit and under AC motors I found this as first entry:
You are lucky, they would send it to your country, but not to mine! Ebay
|Thread: machining ''Peek'' ...and ''Carbon fibre''|
Lancelot, thank you very very much for the advice above. I was at first not very sure if that works, but took the plunge and got a 12 mm diamond core drill (from ARC, satisfied customer etc etc.). Quite cheap they are also...
Yes it works a treat. I put the rings in a jig (top and bottom plate with the 6 holes), so the drill had a bit of guidance and I could cut from both sides. Result; a clean hole, not the slightest delamination or splintering. Happy!!!
I put this here just in case someone faces the same problem.
|Thread: So where am I going wrong|
Hmm, Graham, did you forget to let the lathe running backwards for the left hand thread???
I had a look into this program lately and feel a bit like you. This program seems to be very capable, but the interface is a nightmare... E.G. the drawing tools (line etc.) are not active when one starts with a 'part design'. Dunno what this is called in English; my version is mixed German and English...
Can you give the link for that Youtube tutorial? From the link on the start page I get nothing...
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