Here is a list of all the postings Versaboss has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: source of 600 / 1200 grit 6" diamond grinding (cup) wheels,|
Diamond wheels use their own grit size numbers, not the usual 600/800/1200 system. Your disk is D76, that's quite coarse. The ARC wheels are unfortunately not specified (at least not on the web page), but the ones I have are imho still too coarse for scrapers. But they are good for the pre-grinding; for finishing I recommend one of the D9 wheels from Eternal Tools :
But these are only 40 mm diameter, so you would need to improvise something with a small motor and spindle. Happy customer, no connection etc. etc.
|Thread: LBSC Style Ratchet Wheel Mechanical Lubricator|
As I'm thinking about building a small oil pump can someone point me to a description / plans for this Evins lubriccator? I remember vaguely having seen it long ago, but have no idea where it was.
|Thread: Compound Slide Locks|
Speaking of compound slide locks - do you think al lock in vertical direction, pressing on the non-guiding part of the stationary slide, is a viable idea? Reason is on my lathe I installed a Chinese scale on the front of the topslide, and now the adjusting screws are partially hidden and there is not enough room for a lock screw between the scale and the slide. I hope this description is sufficiently clear to see what I mean.
If that's a bad idea, why?
|Thread: Speed Controller - error in Circuit|
So finally the issue 229 landed in my postbox also, and after reading a bit diagonally through that article I'm still a bit lost.
I'm sure someone with sufficient electronics knowledge would have no problem, but I'm not among these...
So please Neil, do you mean that the emitter of BC327 should point upwards to the BC337 (and the arrow changed naturally), or stays as drawn and just the arrow drawn correctly?
A corrected drawing in the next issue is good, but a clear description even better...
|Thread: Polyurethane belts, green (or red, orange...)|
Many thanks for your help, I just sent my order to Stationary Engineparts . Their prices are very reasonable imho.
Kind regards, HansR.
Not sure where to put this question, but as it has to do with workshop tooling I pot it here!
I was trying to buy some of the afore mentioned round belts (4 and 5 mm), but Ebay was of no help, a bit to my surprise. Now I found it on RS components, but received an email stating they do sell only to registered businesses. (Btw is that so in England also? I remember having seen the name of that firm quite often here...)
So does someone know where to get this stuff without hassle? And if someone can tell the differences between the colors? I would think the softer the better the grip?
Kind regards, HansR.
|Thread: Allegro Razor Blade Sharpener|
I remember my father used exactly the same apparatus and I was very fascinated about how it worked.
Say around 1950 that was...
Unfortunately I have no idea what happened with it later when my father bought an electric Philips shaver.
|Thread: Onshape CAD|
That was a very short test with Firefox!
I got the message "It seems your browser doesn't have WebGL enabled', but when I check it it IS enabled!!!
Continuing with Opera tomorrow.
Re. the webinar: when I check what EST means, I see they have DST now. So what's it in Greenwich time???
Well I got my invitation also and tried to do something... As I supposed not so easy unfortunately.
- Then it is incredibly slow, and I also had the endless loop when trying to download the examples. I can't imagine how they can sell such a product to a professional user (and my i'net connection is usually quite fast; just now 8.4 Mbits/sec.)
- what I miss is a general introduction. It seems that the tutorials jump directly 'in medias res'.
- And what I feared when I saw the screen shots at the start of this thread: the font is at the limit to be unreadable (I have a ~ 20" monitor). It gets a bit better when I enlarge the picture with the + key, but then not enough is visible.
This was with Opera. First short try with Firefox was not better, but I will now try that a bit longer.
Can someone please explain how the 'invitation' works?
On my screen the texts are almost totally unreadable (too weak) and/or outside the usual display limits. It starts with the page after 'Request beta invite' which is not totally viewable, I have to make it smaller with the '-' key. Next, I saw a single input field and supposed they want my email address. Did this and immediately got a field 'Sign In', and the email address still in the input field, Clicking the 'Sign in' produced an error message (invalid password I guess).
If the interface of this program is as bad as these login screens (and if I can trust the examples I see above and in the video it is so) then I'm afraid it is unusable for me.
OK, while typing this I received an email, they will send me the 'Invite' asap,
Let's see how that goes on then...
|Thread: An efficient slot method|
Mr pgk, I would strongly advise you to invest in a good roughing (ripper or however you call it) endmill of say 10 or 12 mm. With this you should be able to plow at least 4-5 mm deep through your steel bar. Leave say half a mm stock and take this out with a (also good quality !) endmill.
I have one of these Chinese sets also, looks as they are even TiN coated...Best used as paper weight!
|Thread: Workshop visitors|
Well this was not exactly in the workshop, but not too far away...
Bloody cats always want to present their prey!
Oh, and thanks for the tip about chocolate, worked perfectly!
|Thread: Parting Off MEW225|
If you need a short intermission after all these academic disputes, then take a look at this interesting video:
|Thread: "New" Old Stock Kasenit; Does it expire?|
What can happen after some years is that the tin can totally rusts away. My stock (bought 19-umpteen) is now in a plastic can., and works like on day one.
|Thread: Help with South Bend lathe please...|
Sorry to appear a bit pedantic here, but the double gear on Paul L.'s picture (left) is not an idler gear!
An idler gear does nothing to the ratio between two shafts, it is just idling. But this gear pair does reduce the speed from the spindle to the leadscrew. I was wondering about that when I first saw the pile of change gears in one of the first pictures. What I suppose (I admit I know nothing about South Bend lathes) is that there is something missing on that empty stud. The 'something' should enable to mount two gears in such a manner that they can rotate freely on that stud, but be coupled together firmly. That's how it is done on my Leinen lathe, with the aid of a key in that case.
|Thread: HSS Inserts|
Not to forget the Alesa tools, available in HSS, carbide or ceramic.
|Thread: Mist coolant|
Well I think there are two different lubrication systems discussed here. So I hope I can bring a bit more clarification into that matter and tell about my experience - not all good as you will see.
Many years ago I saw a minimal quantity lubrication system at a machine tool exhibition. This was (is) NOT a 'mist system' - just to make that clear. This system came from a manufacturer called Vogel; to my surprise when I looked it up today it goes now under the name of SKF (yes the ball bearing firm). So I bought such a system and had soon to discover the drawbacks.
Maybe best to show the link to that system as sold by SKF:
As you see this is a fully pneumatic system. The oil is metered by a small pneumatic pump, and the air blow can be regulated separately. But, and that was the drawback, it needs a constant pressure of 5-6 bar in the air line, and the air stream empties my 50 l tank in a couple of minutes below that level. I know my compressor is not very large and is unable to keep the pressure high enough. What I want to say is that this system needs air in copious quantity - you could never use it with a Junair. Bambi or fridge compressor.
The other problem is that it does not start immediately (as mentioned above for another system also). In practice I have to start it 15-20 min before I want to use it, and have also to set oil volume and air to the max ant then - when it finally starts to work - regulate it back again. A big nuisance to say the least..
The reason why I wanted such a system was, that I heard good reports about a U.S. product named Micro-Drop (iirc). This uses a pressurized oil reservoir, which imho is much easier to work with. This is (was) available here also, but again 50% more expensive than the Vogel/SKF system.
So if you have a big, powerful compressor then go for it, otherwise I would say no.
Just to finish that narration, somewhere in the distant back in the American 'Home Shop Machinist' there was a construction article about a lubrication system in which the oil was sputtered out by the action of a magnetically moved iron core (solenoid) hitting the back end of an oil filled tube. This just from a not too good memory. so the details are a bit vague...
|Thread: A better lathe ....|
The dream of my sleepless nights:
Hommel UWG with a complete set of accessories.
|Thread: Finding an alternative supplier|
That's how the genuine Clifford Northfield diamond plates look like:
But I'm sure the above mentioned Eze-lap products would be just as good..
These originals had been quite expensive afaik...
Btw. as I now have other means to sharpen small (and larger) drills I would be prepared to separate me from them (together with the Brown jigs). PM me if interested... Still a lot of life in them I think.
|Thread: Good Quality Small Lathe|
Good quality small lathe?
Afaik this one is still made (and available, if you are not in a hurry):
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