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Member postings for Versaboss

Here is a list of all the postings Versaboss has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Designspark 2.0
21/12/2014 00:35:17
Posted by Ady1 on 19/12/2014 15:27:39:

I downloaded designspark version 1 and upgraded to MS net4.0 (The last windows xp NET version)

...

Well worth a look if you're after a functional 3D freebie


Hi Adi,

could you explain with some more words? I found and got and installed that Net 4.0, but when trying to install Designspark it Insisted it needs version 4.5

The error message was:

Prerequisite check for system component Microsoft .NET Framework 4.5 (x86 and x64) failed with the following error message:
"Installation of the Microsoft .NET Framework 4.5 is not supported on this operating system. Contact your application vendor."

So how exactly did you overcome that obstacle?

Regards, HansR.

Thread: How do you view the Emco FB2 milling head
24/11/2014 22:16:17

Hello Balo(?),

If I read you correctly you think of mounting an Emco milling head to a Myford lathe? If so, how? and where do you get a separate head? After these questions, now to my experience. Back in the seventies I used an Emco head, but mounted on an Emco lathe which had the necessary clamp for the column. Such a combination is, as I found out, really unsuitable except for the lightest of milling jobs. Many people don't realize that a milling cutter generates an upward force on the workpiece, and a lathe saddle is not constructed to resist this force. This also leads to vibrations and chatter on the workpiece. So after quite a short time I mounted the head to a heavy milling table and later sold the lathe. I still have this mill but don't use it now, having some better machines. Really even think about selling it...

Thinking about that above - could be that the Myford's flat bed is better in resisting these upward forces, but I stay to my opinion that a milling attachment on a lathe is an unsatisfactory makeshift. Not least also the constant changes between turning and milling.

Kind regards, HansR.


Thread: Setting up the lathe accurately
15/11/2014 23:04:50

Sorry Mr. Frost, but your answer made me shaking my head in disbelief. Possibly you think that the OP's numbers are in millimeters? I admit I don't know the Schlesinger limits for a lathe, but I'm quite sure that a diameter difference of nearly 0.05 mm over a distance of around 150 mm is not good. (sorry again for using these newfangled units, but that's what I need to make me a mental picture)

So it happened just a couple of days ago that I also wanted to know if my lathe (not far from 50 years old) is still usable or crap. I now have the test piece in front of me, I noted the numbers on it. A piece of free cutting steel, originally around 21 mm in diameter. HSS tool (yes in one of my new Wimberley holders), fine feed and a small depth of cut). My turning length was around 100 mm, or 4" if you prefer. What I got - measured with my best metric micrometer which has a vernier to 3 digits - is as follows:

- on the free end: 20.661 mm

- in the middle: 20.665 mm

- on the chuck end: 20.665 mm

What would Mr. Schlesinger say to that?

I'm very glad I didn't have to tamper with the mounting of the bed on the cabinet, this would be very difficult for this lathe (I even had to search for the screws...)

Regards, HansR.

Thread: Wimberley lathe tool holder
08/11/2014 21:39:37

As it was possibly me who provoked this thread, I'm obliged to show a bit more...

I tried my luck with the famous tangential toolholder also, but had some difficulty with the clamping - the screw or a part of the holder always coming in conflict with the work. So I started making a Wimberley clone. The first one was mostly scrap, then they became (slowly) better... I admit that the HSS bit is not as easy to grind as for the t.t.h., but mainly because I upscaled up to 10 x 10 bits. The original W.t.h. uses a tiny (3/16" I think) bit, a size I don't even think of using!

The easiest way to make one is starting with a bit of steel, about 25 mm square and 35 mm long. Mill one side off at an angle of 20 degrees, then mill the tool slot diagonally on this side, also at 20 degrees. A vise with a rotating base helps a lot for that - or set the vise oblique on your mill table. Next is drilling a hole, in my case 10 mm, in the upper left corner of the steel block, and stop when the drill reaches the tool slot. Don't forget the holes fot the clamp screws - either just vertically or inclined so they are perpendicular to the tool slot. Finally silver solder the stem into the 10 mm bore. You can use a square one turned down to 10 mm, or say a round 12 mm, which you mill flats on after soldering.

A word again to the tool bits: I found the best method for grinding the steep primary angle is using a thick spacer on the horizontal grinder table (which usually is around axle height). The height should be so that the grinding point is between 1 and 2 o'clock on the wheel, This should result in an angle of about 28 degrees (20 for the holder, 8 for the relief).

So now some pictures:

dscf1221 (medium).jpg



The first two usable holders, for 10 and 6 mm bits.

dscf1222 (medium).jpg


The smaller, front view

dscf1226 (medium).jpg

A larger clone for mounting directly in a Tripan holder, with 10 mm bit

dscf1229 (medium).jpg

here seen from the tool bit side.

Well, enough for the moment!

Kind regards, HansR.

Thread: 25 Years of Great Ideas - What's Your Favourite?
05/11/2014 11:21:07

My vote goes to the bandsaw which was in one of the first issues. But please with better blade guides (ball bearings)... I drive mine with a cardan shaft from the lathe.

Re the ubiquitous tangential tool holder: Don't beat a dead duck: a Wimberley holder is the real McCoy!

Regards, HansR.

Thread: Loctite wheel to shaft
28/10/2014 22:50:39

OK, addition to my poat above: I found it! The trick was to search for tha author's name.

It is in part 6, Coatings

He shows 3 methods best is sandblasting, second the heating (bluing he says, so a bit hotter than what I wrote), and the third cleaning with some abrasive kitchen cleaner.

Have a look at these vids, this man knows a lot and even I am able to understand his English very well (something that's not always the case, unfortunately...)

Regards, HansR.

28/10/2014 22:37:11

Neil, that's an interesting question. I think I have seen the solution in one of Dan Gelbart's Youtube videos. There should be 18 parts, but on the selection on the right I don't see all. Someone knows how to find all vids of a certain contributor? (end of OT interrupt). So I can't locate it at the moment.

Well what stayed in my memory is the following: whatever solvent you use, after it has dried off you still have a one atom (molecule) thick layer of organic matter on your material.This can be proofed by trying to net it; the water will build 'balls' and flow off. The only way to get rid of that is to treat the parts with a flame from your trusty propane burner. Maybe to around 150-200 deg.C, I'm not sure about that, but after this treatment the water will adhere to the surface and wet it. A surface like this will also be netted by your epoxy/acrylate or whatever adhesive you use!

If someone is able to find this video I would very much like to hear about it again.

Part one is here: Gelbart

Regards, HansR.

Thread: Gear Cutting Advice
02/10/2014 22:56:30

Hi Andy, my Leinen has roller bearings. I often think they would need just a little bit of adjustment, but I'm not able to understand how to do that. Also the two-speed clutch is shot and works only on the high speed side. Ah well, the oil in the headstock and especially the apron has the habit of disappearing very fast...

But nonetheless this lathe can still do precision work.

Not in UK, Switzerland it is...

Regards, HansR.

02/10/2014 12:35:24

Ah, finally a Leinen owner here! (although it's a LZ4S...). So we are two, almost a crowd then. laugh

My example was missing the (quite important) 90 teeth wheel, so I went the easy route and bought two standard gears, bolted and loctited them together and turned down to the thickness of the others - 15 mm you say. I'm sure one of the thinner wheels with a hub would be sufficient also.

Btw I use small polyurethane vee belts and a set of pulleys for the feeds - much more silent than the gears!

Bit OT, I know wink

Regards, HansR.

Thread: How do i drill small holes - just ruined my Elmers Tiny Column :(
27/09/2014 23:49:40

Instead of a standard spot drill you can treat yourself to a carbide centre tool from Eternal tools:

**LINK**

Not cheap I admit, but would solve your problems methinks. Satisfied customer etc., you know...

It would relieve you from learning to 'catch a centre' with a graver, an art in itself!

Kind regards, HansR.

Thread: LEDs ... The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly
26/09/2014 13:49:12

Not that it seems I'm not interested in that LED discussion. In fact I am, as a couple of these outdoor floodlights are under way to me. I hope they are bang good! Link seems to work very slowly, so have patience!

So may I propose that these LED discussions ace collected into a dedicated new thread? Nobody will find them again in this one...

Kind regards, HansR.

 

Edited By Neil Wyatt on 26/09/2014 17:40:25

Thread: What did you do today? (2014)
25/09/2014 22:57:50

Changing the theme a bit... to what I did today.

made my first steps into anodizing. I'm happy to tell that it went quite well cool :

img_20140925_223645 (small).jpg

It might interest someone that I didn't use the usual 20 % sulphuric acid. Instead I prepared a mix of 2 liters distilled H2O, about 400 grams of PhMinus salt and 100 grams of liquid PhMinus. These two products are used for treating swimming pool water and are easily obtainable. I think the liquid is sulphuric acid, but only about 10%, and the cristalline is Sodium-Hydrogene-sulphate. I added the liquid form only because first I had no current flowing; later iI found out the culprit was the Alu wire I used for suspending the sample. I changed the wire to a Titanium wire and set for around 200 mA for this small item (with a lab power supply). I found a value of 10 mA per cm2 in the online literature, seems that's a good number!

The colour - is magenta ink for a inkjet printer! First thinned down, then I put a bit of the concentrated stuff on with a small paintbrush. Btw the dark spot near the hole is just a picture artefact

A couple of these famous (for anodizing) Dylon textile colours are already under way for the next trials!

Kind regards,

HansR.


 

Edited By Versaboss on 25/09/2014 22:59:21

Thread: Drilling stainless steel
23/09/2014 11:47:49
Posted by Doubletop on 22/09/2014 11:39:19:

Apart from doing a great job but a bit messy with it (easily cleaned up) I was told that if you drive RTD hard to the point it smokes it gives off a sulphur fumes which can cause rusting of equipment. So really a case of clean up well after the job is done.




Yes that's true, but 'rusting' is maybe a too strong word. The effect is more like that of the well-known blackening solutions, although the colour is more dark brown than black.

You can see this effect on a Morse taper holder for my Fehlmann Mill-drill, the exposed front part has got an even colour all around.

fehlmann (small).jpg

kind regards, HansR.


23/09/2014 11:47:48
Posted by Doubletop on 22/09/2014 11:39:19:

Apart from doing a great job but a bit messy with it (easily cleaned up) I was told that if you drive RTD hard to the point it smokes it gives off a sulphur fumes which can cause rusting of equipment. So really a case of clean up well after the job is done.




Yes that's true, but 'rusting' is maybe a too strong word. The effect is more like that of the well-known blackening solutions, although the colour is more dark brown than black.

You can see this effect on a Morse taper holder for my Fehlmann Mill-drill, the exposed front part has got an even colour all around.

fehlmann (small).jpg

kind regards, HansR.


Thread: Not a "modeller"!
26/08/2014 10:20:55
Posted by alan frost on 25/08/2014 21:38:54:

Got an idea. If someone could write an article for MEW on making model axes then someone else could write a little article on grinding them.

Too late, Alan. Has been done more than once, really... An example here:

Axe from hammer

Regards, HansR.


Thread: What did you do today? (2014)
16/08/2014 23:58:12

Having seen an advertisement for a "Wimberley toolholder", I thought that I should try something similar. This toolholder is almost like a tangential tool turned 90 deg. anticlockwise. I admit the first version I did came out wrong, mostly because the point of the tool came out much too high when used in a quick-change holder.

So that's what my effort #2 looks like:

dscf0695 (small).jpg

dscf0697 (small).jpg

And does it work? Very well I think, although I have to experiment a bit more with the tool angles. Maybe I even will do a #3, but for smaller tooling. The 10 mm square is a bit overkill (and needs a lot of grinding...). I did a few cuts in steel, alu and brass, over 1 mm DOC is easily possible (but 0.01 mm also).

Regards, HansR.

Thread: What drill bit for drilling 1 inch long 5mm hole through 10mm grub screw?
09/08/2014 11:18:22
Posted by Andrew Johnston on 08/08/2014 15:01:46:

I drilled and tapped a scrap piece of 6082 aluminium alloy with 3.4, 3.5 and 3.6mm drills, and then hand tapped the holes. I started off with a high tensile (12.9) SHCS in the hole drilled 3.6mm. The bolt broke before the thread stripped.

Any questions? wink 2

Regards,

Andrew

Yes. If you would check this M4 thread in the 3.6 mm hole with a go/no-go thread gauge, would it still pass that test?

Remembering from a dim past that I had quite often rejected jobs when the internal threads showed too much truncation. Some customers can be very sensitive...

Regards, HansR.

07/08/2014 23:35:30

Hi Jan,

I had a bit mixed feelings about what you described here, to be honest I can't imagine how the part you made looks in the end.

But one thing (well rather two) things I can tell you: You can't find M7, M9 and M11 screws/bolts because these are not used as fasteners! They are 'non-preferred' diameters, but that doesn't mean that taps and dies don't exist! There are even more such non-existing fasteners (every odd dia. from 11 upward); it would be crazy having screws every mm.

The other thing: keep off thinking that carbide drills would solve your problems! I bet that such a drill in your machine (whatever it is) would not last more than 30 seconds. It IS possible to drill all usual (for a mod,eng.)materials with HSS drills. Just today I did quite a lot of holes in 5 mm stainless, all with HSS.

Regards, HansR.

Thread: What pulleys to use for a milling machine and VFD.
06/08/2014 22:34:20

For motorizing the Aciera high speed head I would use one of the brushless DC motors, which are sold by Sieg. They include the control box also. I don't know the prices, but regarding the prices of the machines which use them they cannot be very high.

Regards, HansR.

Thread: Cupronickel as boiler material!
28/07/2014 23:03:07

There is a chap in Finland who builds all his locos from that stuff. Seems he can get it from a shipbuilding place,

Naturally this can only be done in countries where the profession of 'boiler inspector' is unknown laugh

See his videos here

Regards, HansR.

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