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Member postings for Versaboss

Here is a list of all the postings Versaboss has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: source of 600 / 1200 grit 6" diamond grinding (cup) wheels,
25/07/2015 00:15:28

Sorry for having to play spoilsport (again), but the designation 6A2 defines the wheel shape! There is an international norm for (diamond/CBN) wheek shapes, You can find them e.g. in this Norton catalog (page 5):

**LINK**

Regards, HansR.

22/07/2015 12:06:02

Well it seems the link in Dave Martin's post does not show what I wanted to explain. But it seems that in the U.S. at least they use also the mesh numbering for grinding wheels, or did I overlook something? I know that the grit numbers are given in lapping plates and similar things, though...

So a bit more 'googling' (without Google in my case). There is a FEPA (European Federation of Abrasives Producers) norm for grit sizes, and here you can find the D numbering system, although with some difficulties. The best I found is on this site from a Swiss factory:

**LINK**

This shows clearly that in the mesh system finer grits have larger numbers, whereas in the D system finer grits have smaller numbers (because they correspond roughly with the grit size in micrometers)

Numbers are the same in almost all languages, so the German text should not present too much difficulties...

Regards, HansR.

Aargh, the link goes not to the page with the tables...

OK, you can switch to English also... Then select 
Product
>
Abrasives
>
Bonded precision grinding tools in Diamond and CBN

Under 'Abrasive qualities' you can find the tables.
 

Edited By Versaboss on 22/07/2015 12:13:12

21/07/2015 22:41:14

Diamond wheels use their own grit size numbers, not the usual 600/800/1200 system. Your disk is D76, that's quite coarse. The ARC wheels are unfortunately not specified (at least not on the web page), but the ones I have are imho still too coarse for scrapers. But they are good for the pre-grinding; for finishing I recommend one of the D9 wheels from Eternal Tools :

**LINK**

But these are only 40 mm diameter, so you would need to improvise something with a small motor and spindle. Happy customer, no connection etc. etc.

Regards, HansR.

Thread: LBSC Style Ratchet Wheel Mechanical Lubricator
21/07/2015 21:47:54
Posted by John Baguley on 21/07/2015 18:24:02:

I like the Jim Ewins type where the ram goes through two O rings which seal perfectly.


As I'm thinking about building a small oil pump can someone point me to a description / plans for this Evins lubriccator? I remember vaguely having seen it long ago, but have no idea where it was.

regards, HansR.

Thread: Compound Slide Locks
10/06/2015 21:50:30

Speaking of compound slide locks - do you think al lock in vertical direction, pressing on the non-guiding part of the stationary slide, is a viable idea? Reason is on my lathe I installed a Chinese scale on the front of the topslide, and now the adjusting screws are partially hidden and there is not enough room for a lock screw between the scale and the slide. I hope this description is sufficiently clear to see what I mean.

If that's a bad idea, why?

Regards, HansR.

Thread: Speed Controller - error in Circuit
03/06/2015 20:25:47

Posted by Neil Wyatt on 20/05/2015 14:06:02:

Unfortunately the circuit drawing on page 32 of MEW 229 shows TR2 drawn as an NPN transistor.

A BC327 is in fact a PNP device and should be shown with the emitter and collector the other way round.

So finally the issue 229 landed in my postbox also, and after reading a bit diagonally through that article I'm still a bit lost.

I'm sure someone with sufficient electronics knowledge would have no problem, but I'm not among these...

So please Neil, do you mean that the emitter of BC327 should point upwards to the BC337 (and the arrow changed naturally), or stays as drawn and just the arrow drawn correctly?

A corrected drawing in the next issue is good, but a clear description even better...

Regards. HansR.

Thread: Polyurethane belts, green (or red, orange...)
30/03/2015 20:05:43

Many thanks for your help, I just sent my order to Stationary Engineparts . Their prices are very reasonable imho.

Kind regards, HansR.

30/03/2015 14:14:32

Not sure where to put this question, but as it has to do with workshop tooling I pot it here!

I was trying to buy some of the afore mentioned round belts (4 and 5 mm), but Ebay was of no help, a bit to my surprise. Now I found it on RS components, but received an email stating they do sell only to registered businesses. (Btw is that so in England also? I remember having seen the name of that firm quite often here...)

So does someone know where to get this stuff without hassle? And if someone can tell the differences between the colors? I would think the softer the better the grip?

Kind regards, HansR.

Thread: Allegro Razor Blade Sharpener
25/03/2015 12:48:31

Memories...

I remember my father used exactly the same apparatus and I was very fascinated about how it worked.

Say around 1950 that was...

Unfortunately I have no idea what happened with it later when my father bought an electric Philips shaver.

Regards, HansR.

Thread: Onshape CAD
17/03/2015 00:07:37

That was a very short test with Firefox!

I got the message "It seems your browser doesn't have WebGL enabled', but when I check it it IS enabled!!! angry

Continuing with Opera tomorrow.

Re. the webinar: when I check what EST means, I see they have DST now. So what's it in Greenwich time???

Regards, HansR.

16/03/2015 23:03:29

Well I got my invitation also and tried to do something... As I supposed not so easy unfortunately.

Problems:

- during load, several (say +/- 10) javascript errors, and then the buttons/tools or whatever they are called are invisible. Difficult to work that way!

- Then it is incredibly slow, and I also had the endless loop when trying to download the examples. I can't imagine how they can sell such a product to a professional user (and my i'net connection is usually quite fast; just now 8.4 Mbits/sec.)

- what I miss is a general introduction. It seems that the tutorials jump directly 'in medias res'.

- And what I feared when I saw the screen shots at the start of this thread: the font is at the limit to be unreadable (I have a ~ 20" monitor). It gets a bit better when I enlarge the picture with the + key, but then not enough is visible.

This was with Opera. First short try with Firefox was not better, but I will now try that a bit longer.

Regards, HansR.

13/03/2015 22:57:46

Can someone please explain how the 'invitation' works?

On my screen the texts are almost totally unreadable (too weak) and/or outside the usual display limits. It starts with the page after 'Request beta invite' which is not totally viewable, I have to make it smaller with the '-' key. Next, I saw a single input field and supposed they want my email address. Did this and immediately got a field 'Sign In', and the email address still in the input field, Clicking the 'Sign in' produced an error message (invalid password I guess).

If the interface of this program is as bad as these login screens (and if I can trust the examples I see above and in the video it is so) then I'm afraid it is unusable for me.

OK, while typing this I received an email, they will send me the 'Invite' asap,

Let's see how that goes on then...

Regards, HansR.

Thread: An efficient slot method
25/02/2015 19:18:12

Mr pgk, I would strongly advise you to invest in a good roughing (ripper or however you call it) endmill of say 10 or 12 mm. With this you should be able to plow at least 4-5 mm deep through your steel bar. Leave say half a mm stock and take this out with a (also good quality !) endmill.

I have one of these Chinese sets also, looks as they are even TiN coated...Best used as paper weight!

Regards, HansR.

Thread: Workshop visitors
18/02/2015 20:13:46

Well this was not exactly in the workshop, but not too far away...

Bloody cats always want to present their prey!

img_20150216_184841 (medium).jpg

Oh, and thanks for the tip about chocolate, worked perfectly!

Regards, HansR.

Thread: Parting Off MEW225
18/02/2015 19:01:17

If you need a short intermission after all these academic disputes, then take a look at this interesting video:

**LINK**

Regards, HansR.

Thread: "New" Old Stock Kasenit; Does it expire?
17/02/2015 21:43:43

What can happen after some years is that the tin can totally rusts away. My stock (bought 19-umpteen) is now in a plastic can., and works like on day one.

Regards, HansR.

Thread: Help with South Bend lathe please...
12/02/2015 10:33:45

Sorry to appear a bit pedantic here, but the double gear on Paul L.'s picture (left) is not an idler gear!

An idler gear does nothing to the ratio between two shafts, it is just idling. But this gear pair does reduce the speed from the spindle to the leadscrew. I was wondering about that when I first saw the pile of change gears in one of the first pictures. What I suppose (I admit I know nothing about South Bend lathes) is that there is something missing on that empty stud. The 'something' should enable to mount two gears in such a manner that they can rotate freely on that stud, but be coupled together firmly. That's how it is done on my Leinen lathe, with the aid of a key in that case.

Regards, HansR.

Thread: HSS Inserts
08/02/2015 12:52:43

Not to forget the Alesa tools, available in HSS, carbide or ceramic.

**LINK**

Regards, HansR.

Thread: Mist coolant
06/02/2015 22:58:46

Well I think there are two different lubrication systems discussed here. So I hope I can bring a bit more clarification into that matter and tell about my experience - not all good as you will see.

Many years ago I saw a minimal quantity lubrication system at a machine tool exhibition. This was (is) NOT a 'mist system' - just to make that clear. This system came from a manufacturer called Vogel; to my surprise when I looked it up today it goes now under the name of SKF (yes the ball bearing firm). So I bought such a system and had soon to discover the drawbacks.

Maybe best to show the link to that system as sold by SKF:

**LINK**

As you see this is a fully pneumatic system. The oil is metered by a small pneumatic pump, and the air blow can be regulated separately. But, and that was the drawback, it needs a constant pressure of 5-6 bar in the air line, and the air stream empties my 50 l tank in a couple of minutes below that level. I know my compressor is not very large and is unable to keep the pressure high enough. What I want to say is that this system needs air in copious quantity - you could never use it with a Junair. Bambi or fridge compressor.

The other problem is that it does not start immediately (as mentioned above for another system also). In practice I have to start it 15-20 min before I want to use it, and have also to set oil volume and air to the max ant then - when it finally starts to work - regulate it back again. A big nuisance to say the least..

The reason why I wanted such a system was, that I heard good reports about a U.S. product named Micro-Drop (iirc). This uses a pressurized oil reservoir, which imho is much easier to work with. This is (was) available here also, but again 50% more expensive than the Vogel/SKF system.

So if you have a big, powerful compressor then go for it, otherwise I would say no.

Just to finish that narration, somewhere in the distant back in the American 'Home Shop Machinist' there was a construction article about a lubrication system in which the oil was sputtered out by the action of a magnetically moved iron core (solenoid) hitting the back end of an oil filled tube. This just from a not too good memory. so the details are a bit vague...

Regards, HansR.

Thread: A better lathe ....
03/02/2015 11:44:46

The dream of my sleepless nights:

Hommel UWG with a complete set of accessories.

**LINK**

Regards,

HnasR.

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