Here is a list of all the postings Versaboss has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Sulphuric Acid for anodising|
I think I wrote this in another -earlier - thread about anodising, so I keep it short.
Here, Sulfuric acid (concentrated) is available in shops called Drogerie; according to my translator this might be chemist or drugstore. Similar to a pharmacy, but without prescription medication.
In shops of the do-it-yourself type, department for swimming pools, there are products for lowering the pH of the water, Here again, pH- liquid is sufluric acid of around 12 +/- 2 %.There is also a cristalline pH-, Sodium hydrogene sulfate (NaHSO4), which is also suitable for anodising. The Na ions don't do any harm...
As an aside, inkjet printer ink is suitable for colouring. Be prudent with the Dylon dyes, there is only one type suitable. Don't ask how I know, what I bought was totally crap for that purpose.
|Thread: Benedict Cumberbatch featured on Cover of MEW 243|
Bit off topic, I know...
But I was quite surprised to see that - again - an article features these (in)famous SEIG lathes
|Thread: program for simple drawing|
May I (once again I think) recommend SolveSpace
Not a 'real' CAD program with all bells and whistles, but very suitable for such small drawings.
Yes, it is necessary to read a bit in the manual and doing the examples, but it is very easy in most cases. Help is available from the author directly if necessary.
I would gladly demonstrate it if speelwerk's drawing had dimensions...
Edited By Versaboss on 18/05/2016 23:40:40
|Thread: Which plastic to bond to brass.|
I would also like a bit more proof that Polycarbonate can be glued well. It might depend of the type of glue - I dunno.
Btw. many of the 'non-gluable' plastics (PP, PE. Nylon) can be glued quite well, when they receive the correct treatment before.
Kind regards, Hans-R.
|Thread: Wouldn't it be nice|
Interesting that nobody seems to know that drills with constant diameter shafts are available. Not cheap I admit, but these I have have almost eternal life.
Like these e.g:
|Thread: a replacement tool to cut sheet steel.|
Seems that I owe you something Roger, so here it is. Just as a test I did two cuts with the angle-grinder blade, one in a scrap bracket from 1.5 mm steel, the other a piece of 15 mm square steel. Both cuts done in say 5-10 seconds, I did not measure the time.The parts stay completely cool, and the (very small) chips are natural colour also.
Then again came the difficulty to photograph these parts, in my pictures steel never looks like steel. May be the LED lighting has something to do with that?
Today you can get circular saws for angle grinders and hand held saws which cut every material, including steel.
I use two (large and small) of these Kaindl products, they do what they say:
|Thread: Collet Identification and info wanted please.|
Too bad you did not give more informations: total length, angle of head,keyway or not, thread metric or imp., normal or sawtooth...
In my eyes they look suspiciously like W25 collets. .
Some numbers for these: length 97.6 mm, head dia. 33.7 mm, thread (very special! sawtooth) dia, 24.7mm / 15 tpi with angles 45/5 deg., head angle 15°, keyway 5 mm
Hope this can help?
|Thread: New lathe arrived today : The ongoing saga|
As you usually use a boring tool to make a hole bigger, I don't see what you mean with this question. Do you want to open 8.9 mm up to 8.95? For anything bigger your question makes no sense.
Anyway, when you (or someone else) wants to bore really small holes, there are wonderful one-piece carbide tools around. Like these e.g.:
Edited By Versaboss on 17/11/2015 10:40:40
|Thread: What is the strongest way to bond styrene to polyethylene|
I can recommend the method given by David Jupp. A short waving with a gas burner until the surface looks shiny, and then gluing with a good cyanoacrilate worked perfectly for me. I have to mention that my stuff was possibly polypropylene, and black! I have lots of this stuff in about 25 mm thickness, and I needed a much thicker part for a connecting piece to the shop-vac. Still holds after several years of rough treatment!
|Thread: New lathe arrived today : The ongoing saga|
Just went back to #1 in this thread and saw it was on Aug. 25th. Now we have Oct. 25th, so two months of almost daily entertainment. Long may it continue - it is always the first one I have a look at when I click the site.
To add something (hopefully) positive to this story, I'm quite sure that the application of a good file in strategic points would help a lot. Scraping would be over the top, both for the lathe and for Brian
Frank, may be you should add that the locking tab is the corner which is separated from the rest by a saw cut, aand also that it is the smaller part...
|Thread: Drilling big holes in 304 stainless steel|
1500 rpm, dia. 20 mm in stainless??? That's about 10 times too fast, imho. No wonder your drills get blunt!
Blacksmith's drills are maybe not the highest quality, but a substantial boring bar (12 mm) should have no problem, especially if you use a sharp (so-called 'Aluminium' insert.. Or even a good, sharp HSS boring bar...
|Thread: Blackening mild steel|
Usually it's not my habit to write about something I didn't check out before myself. But in this case I make an exception. I think that I've read in another forum (possible German) that it is possible to blacken steel parts by immersing in hot vinegar. Surely a simple method when (if) it works, but as said I didn't try it. But I will do on the next occasion.
|Thread: Cheapest supplier of large peices of 6802 aluminium|
Windy, I wish you every success in finding these ally lumps for a good price (and good wishes for your leg problem also...)
Should you happen to get a good offer for some round material 12" / 300 mm in say 40-60 mm thickness, I would be interested, even if the postage would be a bit expensive. But to be honest I did not look around what this would cost locally, as it is not for an immediate project..
I'm in awe what you achieve with your flash steamer!
Kind regards, HansR.
|Thread: Your recommendations to a total beginner looking to use CAD software?|
Ooh, Murray, many thanks! Yes I know I'm a slow worker... and not in any way fluent with these programs.
But as far as I know your examples are all done with parametric 3D programs. What would really interest me is how it had to be done with the non-parametric programs like DraftSight etc. What I want to prove is that for a beginner the parametric programs are much simpler to work with.
Btw I also tried FreeCad, but gave up in disgust. I did not even find (in acceptable time) a way to give a dimension to a line. This program is a horrid example of 'design by a committee', tries to do all and does nothing right.
Fusion360 looks nice, I think I will add it to my toolbox also.
Well the thread opener brought up a question which resurfaces every couple of weeks...
So what does the total beginner really need? In my opinion one of the most important point is how easy it is to bring an idea from paper sketch (or off one's head) to the screen. Now it is my firm believe that all these programs like Turbocad, AllyFreeware, DraftSight lack very much in this respect. So I decided to set up a little challenge and hope that some of the supporters of the above (or other similar programs) will throw the gauntlet.
I started, as usual, with a 'design'. Just some lines and data on a Post-it:
The first one is the very small SolveSpace program. This I think was the fastest do do, maybe less than 3 minutes. One of the drawbacks is that the program expects closed forms, because you can't extrude single lines. So they are marked with 'Not closed contour...'. A small nuisance only. Also there is only one line style, although you can change colours. Could be that broken lines are possible also, but I did not find that in short time.
In all cases I did a screen dump directly after drawing, so that's not exactly what you see on a print output.
Next one is from Alibre, the first version which was available for free many years ago. As I did not use this for quite a time, I needed maybe a bit longer, say 4-5 minutes:
Sorry it seems the dimensioning is not very readable.
The third example is from the new Onshape program. This I had to do twice, because I added twice the same dimension and couldn't find an easy way to telete one of them. Surely a problem of insufficient knowledge. For prospective users it could be important to know that Onshape still has no print (drawing) output, although it is promised to come.'very soon'. Time for this maybe also around 5 minutes.
The 'modus operandi' for all these programs is almost the same.
- select line tool and draw an arbitrary triangle and the horizontal line.
- constrain the latter to be horizontal
-select the measuring tool and measure the angles, then giving them the correct values
- measure the base of the triangle and giving the correct value
- if necessary tidy up the drawing by moving the dimensions around
Now I would very much like to see (in pictures and with description) how the same triangle is drawn in Turbocad and especially DraftSight!
|Thread: Arduino, Genuino ... or what Clone ?|
Last April I bought an Arduino Mega 'basic starter learning kit' from Banggood. If I can trust wha't's writen on the board, it contains a Arduine 'Made in Italy', but not marked as a a 'Genuino'.
The good things with this set: for not much more than a naked board (well even less when I look at the RS price; I paid about $40 or £27) you get a box full of goodies also. To mention the most important: 2 breadboards and a handful of connector wires, an empty shield, a LCD display, a small stepper motor wih driver (no documentation unfortunately...), an infrared sender (keyboard), several 7-segment displays, a small RC servo, and bags with LEDs, resistors, switches and and and...
OK, this is it:
I'm very happy with this seller (usual disclaimer)
|Thread: What did you do today (2015)|
Neil, for us simple 'point and shoot' photographers it would be very interesting to see (just) one of the original pictures, before any treatment.
|Thread: source of 600 / 1200 grit 6" diamond grinding (cup) wheels,|
Sorry for having to play spoilsport (again), but the designation 6A2 defines the wheel shape! There is an international norm for (diamond/CBN) wheek shapes, You can find them e.g. in this Norton catalog (page 5):
Well it seems the link in Dave Martin's post does not show what I wanted to explain. But it seems that in the U.S. at least they use also the mesh numbering for grinding wheels, or did I overlook something? I know that the grit numbers are given in lapping plates and similar things, though...
So a bit more 'googling' (without Google in my case). There is a FEPA (European Federation of Abrasives Producers) norm for grit sizes, and here you can find the D numbering system, although with some difficulties. The best I found is on this site from a Swiss factory:
This shows clearly that in the mesh system finer grits have larger numbers, whereas in the D system finer grits have smaller numbers (because they correspond roughly with the grit size in micrometers)
Numbers are the same in almost all languages, so the German text should not present too much difficulties...
Aargh, the link goes not to the page with the tables...
OK, you can switch to English also... Then select
Under 'Abrasive qualities' you can find the tables.
Edited By Versaboss on 22/07/2015 12:13:12
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